TOOLS
tools.htm-65

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Before we get into the real meaty stuff, here are a few things you need to know about tools:

HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets, and has been known to cause visits to places that stitch up wounds.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning steel pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.

PLIERS and VISE-GRIPS:
Used to round off bolt heads.   If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

HACKSAW and AVIATION METAL SNIP:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence it's course, the more dismal your future becomes.

OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS:
Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 inch socket you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes.

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted drying part.

WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses from your fingers in about the time it takes you to say "Ouch....".  
Thrown wires have been known to remove eyesight permanently.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after you have installed your new front disc brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front fender.  Sometimes used to break fins off of oil pans.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4:
Used for levering a motorcycle upward off a hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS:
A tool for removing wood splinters which you got from using the above item without gloves.  Indispensable item for removing microscopic whiskers of metal that jumped into your fingers.

PHONE:
Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.

GASKET SCRAPER:
Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise.  Used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot. All scrapers should be inspected before making sandwiches.

E-Z OUT, or other BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT:
A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease and grunge buildup.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST:
A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.

1/2" x 16"-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposing the handle.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER:
A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

TROUBLE LIGHT:
The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it usually drops heavy enough to break its lamp.   It may be a source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is not otherwise found under motorcycles at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm Howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its  name is some-what misleading. Many folks can be found shaking these tools as the light goes on and off.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads. (Note: some cheaper models are designed to round themselves off in order to save screw heads)

AIR COMPRESSOR:
A machine used to collect water from the outside air and attempt to mix it with paint.   Some say that it is a machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant hundreds of miles away and transforms that into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 50 years ago by someone someplace.....and rounds them off nicely.   Mostly these are used nowadays with a hand-nozzle to blow small parts into corner areas where they can not be found. 

PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.

TORQUE WRENCH:
A sophisticated tool to test the strength of various fasteners and threaded joints.

ARC WELDER:
A device that produces an electrical short that allows 'welding rods' to be stuck to the surface until they glow red. The operator wears a hood he cannot see out of.
 
TUBING BENDERS:
These come in various designs with the main purpose being to bend a perfectly straight piece of steel tubing into various shapes that are good for absolutely nothing.

POWER BANDSAW:
A device used to destroy small circular shaped metal bands with teeth on one side of them.

CORDLESS DRILL and various other cordless electric tools:
Developed to enhance the profit and loss statements of the battery industry.

CHUCK KEYS:
One of the most commonly lost tools. NOT made by the same companies who design chuck keys, so you never know what type and size to purchase.

Screw Extractor of the type known as an EZY-out:  A common tool used to break itself off in bolts that are already broken.

TORX DRIVERS:
Formerly the mystery tool to install or remove like-named mysterious fasteners. These are slowly being phased out as new mystery fasteners have been developed.   There are several types of products that, at first glance, look like Torx parts, such as your Airhead's rod bolts, but turn out to be a different type, after you ruin the bolt, which is a BMW only part.

TOOL BOX:
A place to store tools that you never need.  Some say that larger metal tool boxes are for placing in beds of pickups, so as to be more easily lost when you leave the tailgate open.

TOOL WARRANTY:   A piece of paper with printing on it, listing complicated and expensive methods of coping with the tool's insane warranty, that no one keeps, and MAY not necessary with Sears Roebuck tools anyway, providing you read the smallest print and can interpret the Sears Warranty change of the Day. 

IMPACT DRIVER:   An ingenious and substantial round metal device with a hidden internal two-way cam; used for loosening tight fasteners, especially on old Japanese motorcycles, or any with phillips or similar looking heads, by using the natural muscle spasm of the operator holding the tool, when his hand, at the webbing between thumb and forefinger, is struck by the hammer.  Known to be accompanied by loud screams, often occurring during the brief period of time just after using this tool to remove frozen Bing Carburetor dome screws, during which the operator has broken the ear off the carburetor, due to failure to put a substantial block of metal under the ear.

***************************OK, let's get serious:***************************

 Buy the best tools you can afford, unless you have a good reason not to do so.  MANY of the BMW tools are NOT expensive....especially the open end and box end type of wrench....and may be cheaper than even Sears!....and BMW tools are made of GOOD metal!
 To do a good job use the right tool.  Your BMW Airhead came from the factory with a GOOD, made of high quality metals, tool kit....with FEW exceptions.   This was especially so for the earlier models.  There are SOME exceptions:

(1) The plastic handled screwdriver with the reversible phillips/conventional tip, was junk...but usable...unless overly torqued. 
(2) The so-called Dogbone wrench's 27 mm end is not strong enough for the swing arm pin locking nuts.  The other end of this dogbone wrench is 36 mm hex, and is very useful, particularly if modified.
(3) The pliers should be discarded in favor of  one more useful and easier to use (the stock one is typically way too stiffly assembled too).

There was a Master Tool Kit available that had a few extra items, and some slightly different versions of the standard tools. SOME of the tools in the Master Kit had different combinations of SIZES.  Some of those tools later became the standard for the bike's kits as shipped, and also in a number of instances, some of the original standard tools ordering numbers were superseded by the Master ("super tool kit") part numbers.    Basically, either of those tool kits are quite adequate for most or at least many needs. The Master Tool Kit contains too many items, and is really not worth purchasing as a total kit.  To properly maintain your airhead, you will need a modest collection of other tools.  You need NOT go overboard on this.   This article is to list the tools, and the BMW part numbers where I happen to know them, that I think should be on the bike, or someplace handy.  This article ALSO lists some specialty tools that I think you should have.  SOME of these tools really SHOULD be in your bike's tool kit. 

NOTE that I have made little attempt to check the part numbers with any possible later changes.  Your BMW dealer will do that automatically.
 

Part I:   Tools that should be part of the on-bike tool kit, or additions to same....and includes a discussion of some tools you can consider, and some that are a waste of money or just plain not needed.  

This is not necessarily a complete list. This is NOT a TOTAL list of the tools that came with that as sold with bike kit!!     Pick and choose.   Some will NOT be applicable to YOUR bike.    It is a very good idea to inspect your own airhead and determine just what tools you need at home, and what you need on the bike, and if you need two that cover one size.   Note that if you mix American and Metric fittings, which is not a great idea for your bike, you may have to carry more tools.

  Special note:  BMW has made changes on hardware that WILL, or could, affect what tools you carry.  Be on the lookout, in instances you are purchasing nuts and bolts from BMW, that your new nuts and bolts have the SAME SIZE HEADS as your originals.  BMW has made some changes to the size of the heads, USUALLY using the same part number. As an example here, 18 mm heads, not the original 19 mm; 16, not 17.  If you find this situation at the dealership, ASK if they have any original 19 or 17 mm; they may be in the same box, as they may WELL have same part number!  There is no good reason you should have to carry an 18 mm or 16 mm wrench besides the 19 and 17, if you know about this.

 Best to look at the parts CD or on-line catalogs, or SNABBKATALOG, or see at your dealers screen, or, whatever you have available to you that shows drawings or pictures of these tools, before you go purchasing any.  Again, check the sizes of the tools YOU need, and how many of each.

71-11-1-232-356   This wee wrench is three in one, with a 7 mm and 8 mm at end and middle, respectively, and an open 9 mm at one end.   Not very useful, in actual practice, except on earliest airheads, somewhat.

71-11-1-237-858  Hook wrench

71-11-9-090-129   This tubular two ended wrench is used at the valve cover acorn nut, and a few other places.  There are much better tools than this one, and it is a sloppy fit at the acorn nut anyway.  You MAY like to have it in the bike tool tray.  I think this one was 15 mm and a sloppy 19 mm, if I remember correctly.

07-11-9-906-020   5 mm allen wrench;  in the Master Tool Kit this was part number 71-11-1-237-851

07-11-9-906-014   4 mm allen....replaced by 11-11-1-237-852

07-11-9-906-008   3 mm allen wrench; in the Master Tool Kit this was part number 07-11-1-237-853

71-11-1-230-684   special two-ended wrench (often called a Dogbone wrench) that fits the early 36 mm fork top caps, early fork top center acorn nut, 27 mm headlight ear 'nuts', and 27 mm swing arm lock nuts.  It was replaced by 71-11-1-237-857.   Very tough metal in the flat portion, can be used with a hammer or small sledgehammer for the 36 mm end usage.  The 27 mm end is for emergency use only at the swing arm nuts, although OK at the headlight ears.      The 27 mm end may not fit FULLY into MOST..or many.. swing arm lock nut cavities, which have, upon close inspection, TWO different internal diameters or ridges...and you should check this and grind the outside of the 27 mm end of this tool appropriately.  If you have any intention of actually using that 27 mm end, be SURE it fits through the outer, through the second diameter, and FULLY onto the nut!  Any INternal taper of this wrench should be ground away, as the swing arm nut is rather thin.   A wee bit of grinding wheel or sanding belt/disc action here is the right way.  You can also weld a lever to it to make it longer, or could cut a square into it for a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench drive.  I grind the 36 mm flat end of the wrench for perhaps 90 or 120 degrees circularly measured from the top, so that the relative end of this 36 mm end is somewhat THINNER......that allows this wrench to fit over the top acorn nut withOUT having to remove OR LOOSEN the handlebars!!     Scan well down this article for a photo of the dogbone wrench, and more comments on it.   I use a modified 27 mm or 1-1/16" socket for the swing arm pivot locking nuts...see later in this tools article.

***Note:  some folks use sockets for the fork top nuts.  Be cautious, as nearly all sockets are made such that the inside of the working end has a relief taper.  I heartily suggest you sand or use lathe or grind off the end, so it is FLAT, and there is NO inside taper at the end.  Failure to do this can let the socket slip altogether too easily on the nuts, and round their corners;....I see this on the 27 mm locknuts on the swing arm pins a lot.
 

BMW also makes this same style of wrench with a 41 mm flat end (still same 27 mm hex at other end)...be sure you have the correct wrench for your bike. The 41 mm one is for the Earles fork BMW's, and for late Airheads.
Number is 71-11-2-303-517
 

See part II, below, item #3, for the SOCKET you should have, to fit the 27 mm swing arm nuts, to keep in your home garage tool kit....as it is vastly better than the above dog-bone tool...for THAT ONE PURPOSE.  That socket also needs end modifications on inside AND outside.

71-11-9-090-139   Old exhaust pipe hook wrench used for early models through /6.  Don't purchase unless you have the need.  Frankly, you do NOT need this wrench, and the best wrench to remove the finned nut is an aftermarket type...big, heavy, finned, and not what you'd normally carry.  In an emergency you could purchase a common Strap Wrench, but they CAN cause damage to the fins.  A version of a finned wrench is available that is used with a square drive socket wrench.  I prefer the big old type with a long handle and made of cast aluminum.

71-11-1-237-855, SHORT tire iron, was replaced by -871 which is the longer one.   I prefer my tool kit to have TWO short, ONE long.  I have been told that BMW discontinued the short irons.   In that instance, I'd purchase and carry THREE long ones.

Tire repair kit:   This depends on whether or not you have tubes in your tires, or not.  While you WILL want to carry a tire repair kit, I usually recommend against the CO₂  bottles.   I HATE those CO2 small cylinders used for flat repairs....never enough of them with you; and a very small 12 volt compressor, see below, is VASTLY better. Important is something to de-bead the tire.   I have made tools for this from C-clamps with welded pieces on the anvils, and there are commercial types available of strong light plastic that are cleverly designed, others are massive.    There are some complete kits...well, almost, of tire irons, patches/plugs, glue, whatever.....available.   These may include a cylinder (via spark plug hole) operated air compressor, they work fine.  However, you can also purchase, very cheaply, always under $20, a very small electric compressor, and remove all the innards, including the fan, and make a plug for it to fit your auxiliary jack....or alligator clips to go directly to the battery.   BOTH of these types of compressors...spark plug...or electric... are FAR nicer to have than the BMW hand pump that fit on the rear frame, etc.  FAR better than CO2 cartridges.   The electric compressors are also available for nearly $80, mounted in a modest sized can/box.   You can purchase the small compressors at such as WalMart, and then remove and toss the case.   WalMart also likely has really small versions that need no modifications but the correct BMW accessory plug (if you want that).  Coleman makes a small compressor that does not need the case removed.       For some other ideas on tire repairs....see:  http://www.stopngo.com

NOTE:   StopnGo plugs don't work exceptionally well with steel corded tires.    If you ream the hole really well, you can use them, but be prepared to replace the plugs often if on a long trip.

Be sure that if you use the cylinder spark plug hole style of compressor, that the compressor hose is long enough.  Do NOT forget a bead-breaker.....unless you are confident of using your foot (never good for me, I weigh 150)....or one side of the center-stand or the side-stand, etc.     There are quite a few types of bead-breakers on the market.  I prefer my homemade one, made from a very large C-clamp, with some added curved pieces welded to the anvils....same shape as the wheel rim edge...so it fits the tire right next to the rim.

71-11-1-230-752   The tool bag itself.   The larger one was -237-870. The entire Master ("super") Tool Kit was -237-840

71-11-1-103-092  Pliers w/side cutter.   Also there is the 71-11-1-237-861 a side cutter only tool.    For both, there are better ones from most hardware stores.  I really prefer a good heavier-duty side cutter pliers and a good old fashioned pump pliers.  One could consider having a side cutter and a slip-joint type called a Channel-Lock.  NOTE:  BMW's version of the Channel-Lock is 71-11-1-237-862, which replaced 71-11-1-179-522.   

71-11-9-090-154  feeler gauge set.  A SMALL riveted together item, good quality (of course).  You don't have to have this one, BUT... these feelers are nice and small.   They are particularly convenient if you have POINTS, which have only a small amount of room to work in.    For the valves, a common U.S. made set of feeler gauges, in 'go, no-go', is nice.  You CAN use the above numbered BMW part for the valves. MANY FOLKS PREFER THE BMW TOOL!   If you are a minimalist, you can carry just three standard feeler blades, or two if you have an electronics ignition bike.  The sizes would be ONE that was ROUGHLY .017" (points), and one of .004" or .005", and one of .008" or .009", those for valves.  Then, again, the BMW tool is small, folds up very nicely.  The later BMW tool has a gauge for the ATE master cylinder that is under the fuel tank.   You don't REALLY need a gauge for spark plugs, although it is part of the tool....or, you can get one of the round circle types that have WIRES...maybe 6 or 8 sizes....and they include a bending tool.  Those are a bit better, wires do a more accurate job on worn spark plugs (grounding electrode gets concaved).  The truth of the matter is that with 1000 ohm or 5000 ohm caps, no matter which you have, and whether points or electronic ignition, the spark plug gaps don't erode much over a reasonable spark plug life....of course, plug insulator life is pretty long these days with UNleaded gasoline's.   Greg Feeler makes a round cylindrical tool for help in setting the pre-1979 points.  Nice goody, not absolutely necessary.  Greg's contact information is:

71-11-1-234-860   The classic BMW tire pump that fit on the frame.  You will find this strictly a nostalgia item, it is pretty much a super hassle to use...can take an hour to do anything with it.   Preferable is the spark plug adapter type of pump, or the $12 WalMart or other 12 volt compressors.

51-25-1-238-375   Cable lock.  Fits in the frame tube under the tank.  Plenty of other choices on the market.

71-11-1-103-086   Screwdriver.  Phillips and standard.  NOT a Posi or Reed and Prince tip.  There are better choices, and stronger, but not always easy to find a screwdriver that is small, and has both phillips and slot ends, and fits your tools bag for the on-bike kit.  Some folks purchase one of the SnapOn types, with assorted hardened magnetic tips that fit inside the handle.  If you have the room and budget, the Snap-On is a QUALITY tool, that NEVER wears out the tips.  Be sure you have the proper size tips...many come only with a relatively narrow single blade size tip.  The proper Phillips size is #2.      HINT:  BMW carb top "phillips" screws may not really be Phillips screws, they just look that way. They could be phillips, OR could be 'Posi' type.   The ancient aircraft tip called Reed & Prince works nicely on the Posi screws....as, of course, does the real Posi.   The Posi tip is EXCELLENT for REMOVING the phillips type, if the phillips is way tight.   Install a phillips type with a phillips screwdriver.   If the screws are frozen, you can try a variety of ideas, see my carb articles.  This includes valve grinding compound for a better grip, a metal block underneath and an Impakt Driver, etc.   Tips for interchangeable-tip type tools are available from a variety of sources, including Snap-On. YES, the Posi IS available.    The only critical 'phillips' type screw place on our Airheads is the screws used on the top of the Bing CV carburetors....although some would argue that point regarding the screw that holds the pod umbilical cord to the pod.   Some have installed Allen head screws at the carb tops.  They are OK, but don't overtighten, as many of these have a very small allen and can round-out more easily. I DISLIKE Allen's there.    Some carbs had common single slot screws.   BMW and Bing may be shipping EITHER Posi or phillips screws......be sure that your 'screwdriver' fits them, and do obtain a Posi #2 or Reed and Prince screwdriver #2 or tip.    Remove the screws one at a time, coat the threads...and taper...with antiseize....and replace the screws.....you will appreciate that hint, later on. ***NOTE!!!....BMW's red plastic-handled screwdriver that is in the BMW on-bike tool kit, the one with the reversible insert, probably Heyco Germany brand, USUALLY IS NOT THE CORRECT TOOL for the carburetor tops!!!....this tool is, instead, a common phillips!!   The Bing carburetor top screws may be Posi, or may be phillips (both Bing and BMW seem to be shipping both types). 

The Posi screws generally have some radiating lines to indicate they are not phillips type.

71-11-1-237-854 PIN (also called a drift).   You need one of these for the holes in your tubular wrenches, and miscl. uses.   Some folks have sharpened one end to a point, other end to a sharp chisel-scraper, having three tools in one.  I don't, as I like to use the drift as a drift.    You can use a fat screwdriver blade instead of this.

71-11-1-237-856  two-ended socket (tubular) wrench, also see 71-11-9-090-105

71-11-1-237-859  point contacts file.  Are better choices.  Filing points is an emergency fix, and I do NOT recommend it except for that use. 

Alternator rotor removal tool:  See item 13 below.

71-11-1-237-860  tire gauge, pencil type.  Are better choices.

71-1-237-863  test lamp.  You can get a simple test lamp with alligator clip on the long lead and a sharp point on the tool with lamp inside, from any autoparts store for two bucks.  Don't get the type that contains a battery, you will find little use for that.    CARRY this tool on the bike.  You don't need a multimeter, unless you REALLY want one...if you do, get the tiny Radio Shack one that folds up.

71-11-1-230-000  This thin round rod was used on the OLD /5 style steering head clamp arrangement, to hold the collar.  You don't need this and COULD substitute an allen wrench already in the kit.   That /5 setup can be replaced by the /6 type parts, and the steering head is then a bit easier to adjust, and that modification IS recommended by me.

71-11-1-237-872   15 mm x 17 mm fork ring wrench

71-11-1-237-864 through 869   These are a ratchet handle drive and sockets and extension, and there is NO great reason to purchase them or carry them in your bike tool kit.  You probably have these tools from other manufacturer's anyway.  The sockets were, in mm sizes:  13, 12, 10, 6.  I don't see ANY REAL REASON to own the BMW versions.

71-11-1-237-841   7 mm x 8 mm open end wrench

71-11-1-237-842   10 mm x 11 mm open end wrench

71-11-1-237-843   12 mm x 13 mm open end wrench

07-11-9-999-119    12 mm x 14 mm open end wrench

NOTE that you need TWO wrenches, at the same time, to set the valve clearances.

71-11-1-237-844   14 mm x 17 mm wrench.  GET TWO, carry both.

71-11-1-237-845   17 mm x 19 mm wrench.  GET TWO, carry both.

71-11-1-237-846   24 mm wrench

71-11-1-237-847   10 x 12 box end wrench, which replaces 71-11-1-230-579   

71-11-1-237-848   19 x 22 box end wrench.  You MIGHT want two.

Part II: Tools you WILL want, that are NOT necessarily in your on-bike toolkit:

1.  8 mm SMALL wrench, combination type (that means a 8 mm box end on one end...preferably a 12 point, but harder to find?), and a 8 mm open end on the other end.   You want to BEND this wrench with an oxyacetylene torch.   Use for the diode board nuts.  I carry this one.   BUT, see item 2, below....

2.  SpinTite (or equivalent brand) wrench, 8 mm hex size.  This is a tubular wrench, female 'socket' on end of the barrel, with a wood or plastic handle.  You might be able to substitute SOME types of 8 mm sockets, or modify such.   For the same use as #1 right above.  I modify the working end, so is NO internal taper that would prevent its use on a very thin nut.  I also grind the outside diameter down a bit, but not so much as to lose much strength.   This tool is useful not only for the very hard to remove, otherwise, diode board outer (forward) nuts, but in removing other nuts.  This type of tool is quite useful for the alternator brush holder, for instance.   A T-handle type is fine.

3.  27 mm or 1-1/16" socket, probably in 1/2" square drive.  This needs to be modified.  Home tool.  This is for the swing arm nuts and you MUST modify the socket OD, and square the end (no internal taper).  12 point is FAR better.  Here is more detailed information:
    a.  Use a 12 point type, as its outer walls are far stronger after you modify it.
    b.  Grind, sand, etc., the open 12 point end so that there is NO internal taper at the very end...in other words, square that end off.  BE SURE that it is fairly square to the main body too....you don't want it fitting poorly onto the thin nut. Do this step first.
    c.  Use a lathe, or grinding wheel, etc., and make the O.D. for a distance of 11/16" from the 12 point end, to 1.350".  This is not critical, but must be small enough to allow the socket to fit into your airhead swing arm frame cavity...past the TWO diameters in there.  Thus, you end up with a modified socket, 12 point, with a 90 degree square working end, no internal taper, a 1.350" outside diameter, and that particular outside diameter is about 11/16" wide.  The 1.350" value seems to be OK for a wide variety of slight differences on our Airheads.

4.  88-88-6-002-560 or equivalent BMW tool to allow a torque wrench to properly fit the driveshaft bolts at the transmission output flange.  Home tool.    This tool consists of a 3/8" square drive female part with a slit in the side, and pressed and brazed into that slit is a 12 point 10 mm off-set box end wrench....said wrench was simply a double ended wrench of some sort, cut to be shorter, one end discarded.  NOTE:   When using this tool, use it straight-out with the torque wrench, NOT at any angle, or if an angle, only slight.   The center-to-center distance of the working ends of this tool, compared mathematically to the distance between the working center of the torque wrench square drive and the center of pressure of the torque wrench handle, will determine the setting BELOW the official torque amount (29 footpounds) that you must set the wrench.   In ALL cases, the torque wrench will be set to LESS than 29 ftlbs!

NOTE:  Some folks use the 10 x 12 mm box ends wrench with a torque wrench inserted into the 12 mm end.  I prefer the tool below, or its home-made equivalent.

5.   6 mm male allen wrench of the square drive type, used for adjusting the swing arm, in conjunction with item #3 and your torque wrench.  Home tools.  

***NOTE:  I suggest you actually purchase this male allen wrench in 3/8 drive and ALSO get one in 8 mm (used at the lower triple clamp).

6.  Aftermarket Exhaust Finned Nuts tool, cast aluminum material.  Home tool.    There is a nice version made by Guy Hendersen
http://www.hendersenprecision.com

7.  Torque wrenches.  For your first one, simply get a GOOD QUALITY tubular 'clicker'.  Bottom reading of zero or maybe 5 or 8 footpounds is OK, top reading of  75 to 100 footpounds is OK.   I recommend EITHER a half inch drive, and obtain a 1/2-3/8 adapter;  or, a 3/8 drive, with a 3/8-1/2 adapter.   You will also want a 6 inch or so extension (male-female) in the same drive, 3/8 or 1/2; this allows you to space the torque wrench outward if you need to....unless you already have deep-well sockets.   If you already have an old BEAM type torque wrench, that is fine but if not a good DIAL-beam type, you should NOT use it for critical things like head nuts; ... SO...if you have a Pro-type beam type with a DIAL, that is great.  You can use just about any type of torque wrench for such as the swing arm locking nuts.  NOTE that some tubular clicker wrenches are hard to read, so is best to get one with a WINDOW readout...perhaps TWO windows, one in ftlbs, one in Nm. SOME have awful faint clicks at low settings. Do NOT trust tubular clicker wrenches at the lower end of the adjustment range....that means under about 8% of the maximum setting.   I DISlike the ones with chromed & engraved or stamped tubes.... you do NOT want to make a mistake in reading one!   STORE your torque wrench at a LOW setting, but not below on-scale.   Three articles are on this website on torque wrenches and torque settings,,,,,#71A, 71B, 71C.     Some folks use a torque wrench at places I use hand-feel, and you may need a more sensitive wrench, such as a inch-pound wrench.   I set pan bolts by hand, as one example, but if someone was to do the final tightening with a torque wrench, they should not try to using a 8-75 footpound torque wrench, but one that was clearly in its range for 72 INCHpounds, for example.  I do ATU nuts (pre 1979) by hand feel, but someone may want to use a torque wrench.    Thus, whilst you really must have a 75 or 100, or even 120 foot pound maximum torque wrench, whether or not you own a small lower range wrench is up to you.

8.  Tool to hold crankshaft from moving forward.  If you remove your flywheel for any reason, be sure to set the engine to OT (top dead center, Oberer Totpunkt) first, and be sure that OT is STILL in the timing window when replacing the flywheel.  It is a MUST to mechanically block the crankshaft from moving forward before removing a flywheel.  This can be done in several ways, I recommend you do NOT use a towel in the timing chest!    One of the neatest methods is likely to be to just make a tool out of a piece of 6 mm Allen wrench material, and weld a 1" (or so) steel disc or 'fender washer', maybe 1/16" thick, onto one end, making the length such that its Allen end fits into the alternator bolt, and the disc end presses against the outer timing chest cover.  Usually 3/4 inch overall.  The length should be such that some light pressure can applied by the cover, the cover being screwed back onto the engine LIGHTLY, but can't quite fully be brought back to the engine surface.  For your home tools, or, since so small, carry it in the tool tray on the bike, but you are UNlikely to ever need it while touring.      Weld it squarely to the straight piece of 6 mm Allen wrench.    The last time I made one of these, I made it to fit my 83-84 bikes, and the OVERALL length was 3/4".  I even put two opposing flats on the sides of the washer (see inside of timing chest outer cover, it has a slight recess in the middle).  The flats are not important, just nice.   There is a cautionary article on this website, dealing just with that crankshaft problem, with additional details in case you accidentally (?) goof-up.   go to: article #81, here is a direct clickable link:  flywheelremovalwarning.htm

9.  A small digital volt-ohm-diode test meter.  The one Radio Shack sells, that folds up, has its own leads, is very neat and fits the tool tray.   See item #1 on the HINTS page of this website.  (that is a hyperlink to the HINTS page).  You can get some tiny alligator clips that push onto the leads, and they will fit in the case too.  You don't REALLY need one on your bike in the tool tray.   If you do NOT have a meter in your tool tray on the bike, DO get a pointy tip test lamp but any old lamp with leads will do in a pinch.  I prefer the real store-bought type.   The test lamp will do almost all you really might need to do, for electrical work, on the road, with some caveats.

10.  You won't find a lot of need for this one, but when you need it, and it is a tool to have at home, you will cuss without it.  This is a tool called an impact driver.  The brand I have is named IMPAKDRIVER, made by the H.K. Porter company.  This neat gadget is hit with a hammer, while you hold rotational CW or CCW pressure on the tool.  The hammer blow pushes the tool tip (lots of tips available) into the screw or whatever, and the internal CAM of the tool causes rotation.  This tool was a MUST with old Japanese bikes, and with a few assorted bits, you will find it valuable.   Use this one carefully on such as carburetor top screws (don't break the carburetor! support the area!), and other such places.  Good for small nuts, not just screws.   I get this tool out BEFORE I round out a screw head.

11.  T-handled allen wrenches, with fairly long allen shanks.  Get a small assortment of these, you won't need any larger than 6 mm.  Do NOT get the cheap plastic handled ones, get the METAL handled types.  Some are made cheap.  BUY QUALITY.  You will find these very valuable.  It is up to you if the tips are the ball type allen or regular allen. The ball type seem more versatile but I am not pleased with many for strength/toughness.  These are usually tools for your home shop.  SOME folks carry one of these, and a shortened L allen wrench, on long tours, when you want to change the oil filter.    You can drill the fairing for one of these screws, if it is hard to get to.   T-handled tools are also made in socket ends. 

12.  Jumper wires.  Keep these two items in your bike tool tray.  You need two types.  The first type is used to bypass the voltage regulator.  About 4 or 5 inches of insulated stranded wire, 18 ga is OK, nothing critical here.  At EACH end put a MALE standard 1/4" spade connector.  The second jumper wire is a test lead jumper.  Make this of a standard medium size alligator clip at each end (rubber boot insulator covered).  Maybe 3 feet long.

13.   There is a tool used for removing the rotor of the alternator.  ALWAYS carry this tool.  Either get the official BMW tool, or make one.  Beware!!!   Do NOT...NOT!!....use any homemade tool unless it is of TOUGH, HARDENED METAL....   A cheap homemade version how-to is posted, dated 05/01, at the Technical Tips section at:  http://www.airheads.org

14.  Those of you who are being thrifty and want to purchase or carry less tools, may want to know of the following perfectly OK substitutions, as perhaps you already own these tools:
19mm, use 3/4 inch 
13mm TRY 1/2 inch...or modify an old 1/2" tool
11mm use 7/16 inch.
8 mm, use 5/16 inch.

15.  A credit card and a phone card and maybe a cell phone.  NOTE!.....any old cell-phone, whether you have a cell-phone paid service OR NOT, can be used to dial 911 for emergencies.  Emergencies are not that you need gasoline or have a flat tire.   Used cell phones for such uses are often available free.

16.  Spark plug shorting tools.  Information AND PHOTO on those, utilized when synchronizing carburetors, will be found in the synchcarbs.htm article (that is a hyperlink).

17.  It sometimes comes about that you might have a reason to remove and replace a pin contact in one of BMW's connectors.  BMW does have a tool for this:  88-88-6-611-132.  Actually -131 and -133 are also pin removal tools.  These tools are PRICEY.   If you are careful, you can use something like a very very thin Jeweler's screwdriver to, from the wire end, release the wee tab that sticks out and locks the pins into position.
FYI, the -132 tool, the only one I have specifications for, has a 3.75 mm plunger diameter and a 3.9 mm ID barrel...that is 3.9 mm x 4.4 mm OD.    

18.  Making a CHEAP and useful hydraulic bottle jack modification:   see article #63 (yes, that is a hyperlink)

19.  Go to one or more local heating contractors, until you find a cooperative one ("sure, you can have an old squirrel cage motor, for free").   Heating/cooling contractors are always removing old home heaters and replacing them.  MOST of these heaters contain a perfectly good motor, that has shafts running out both ends, and the shafts have mounted to them squirrel-cage type rotary blades.   There is a surrounding metal shrouding that you want too...it is all one assembly, and mostly that assembly is inside the old heater case, which you may have to remove.   Most of these motors are heavy duty capacitor-start types, with plug tap selection for speeds.   Adapt a power cord and maybe make up some sort of simple wood piece to keep your new FAN from rolling about on your garage floor and maybe aiming the fan slightly upward....and....you have a dual output high volume fan.   Put some chicken wire over the intake ends of the fan, held by sheet metal screws, to prevent things in your shop, like rags, or your dog/cat, from flying into the fans.   The lowest speed setting is usually the correct one.  This fan is VERY useful during synchronizing carburetors....and....for cooling your bike off rapidly for other work.

20.  Ed Korn previously did business as Cycle Works, in Oregon (yes, that is the town name in the State of Wisconsin). He did some machine work, had LOTS of tools (and some parts) for everything from the Isetta cars, through the /2 era, AND until the Airheads stopped production in  the late 90's. Some were VERY cleverly designed, and he had instructions, videos, all sorts of stuff.    Doing a run-through of his website is informative to many folks.  Ed sold the business to Cycle Works LLC, located at 5805 Haskins Street, Shawnee, KS, 66216   (913) 871-6740.  Contact the new owner, Dan Neiner, at:  Dan@cycleworks.net ((NOT .com!!)). The url is:    www.cycleworks.net     See other areas of my website about Ed.  Also see #22 below.

Another source, limited, but has a few tools you may be interested in....and he has a kit to fix seat hinge problems, is:
 http://www.culayer.com/Joes_tools.htm

Jeff Trapp (jefftrapp@charter.net) http://www.northwoodsairheads.com:80/
has a number of interesting tools for Airheads.  Take a look at that website.   Jeff is the Airheads Club Airmarshall for Wisconsin.
There is further information in my REFERENCES article on Jeff....he also does repairs, inspections, instruction on repairs.
Jeff has his own tools, some are inspired by Ed Korn's tools.
Note:  Jeff has available a complete "loaner" kit...everything, jigs, BMW longer helicoil, drill, tap, etc.....for repairing bad cylinder stud hole threads.
http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Cyl-Stud-Jig.html
...Again...see his site, http://www.northwoodsairheads.com

Do a search on the Airheads LIST archives for tools too.

21.  Tool for the conrod bolts:   This is a 10 mm triple-fluted tool, which looks something like a Torx.  One description of this tool, the one NAPA uses, is "10 mm, 12 point, fluted wrench".   You will use this tool with a 13 mm or 1/2" socket.  The NAPA part number for the tool is #2305.

22.  On the later wheels, the outer race must be removed mechanically, and the hubs are NOT heated for this.    ONE exception is the 1978 REAR DRUM snowflake wheel.  You can contact cycleworks, see #20, above, for a clever tool for removing the 1979+ wheel bearing outer races (works also for swing arm bearing outer races); or, have any mechanic with the correct puller...even a dealership!...do it for you.   For those with larger wallets, the best tool is still the Kukko puller, which works lovely in such blind holes, where the inner edge of the outer race is not easily grippable...usually due to it having the same diameter as the surrounding supporting metal.  The Kukko needed is #21/5, used with the #22/2 'bridge'.  If you get the 21/6 puller, same bridge, you can do the steering head bearings in the same manner.

23.  Various types of rubber tipped tools are available for greasing the swing arm, via greasing into the Allen wrench hex recess of the adjustor.   See chainsaw dealers for a chain saw nose wheel greasing tool. Napa sells several types of tools.  There is a rubber tipped air blow gun nozzle #90-583.  They have also a replacement tip 715-1201 which is for the 715-1217.  They carry a couple other types of tip tools, one of which can use the 715-1217.  These are actually greasing tool items.

24.  There is a factory tool to help line up the clutch disc.  You don't have to have one, eyeball is good enough. CycleWorks probably has one available.  If you want to make this tool:  

Here is a photo of some of the clutch/flywheel removal tools, AND, of that clutch disc alignment tool:

25.  MISCL. tools:

If you THIN the end of the 36 or 41 mm portion, you can fit that dogbone
wrench under the handlebars on many Airheads, without having to remove
the handlebars or even loosen them....to get to the large Acorn Nut that
locks the steering adjustment on earlier models.
71-11-1-237-857 is the # for the 36 x 27 mm size.  Old number was 71-11-1-230-684.
See well above in this article for information on modifying this dogbone wrench! 
The 41 mm version of the dogbone wrench is #...............................

26.  I am sometimes asked about how to deal with the /7 type fork lowers, with the 13 mm nut with the allen wrench hex in the middle.  If you try to loosen the nut, then the allen rotates...blah blah.   I have two solutions.  One is to modify a deep socket for a slot along the side. The other is to purchase an offset socket wrench.  McMaster-Carr has one, item 7247A52.

27.  Type of broken screw/bolt extractor that I use.  Don't know the name of this type, but it does not break like a real EZY-OUT brand long removing tool does.  SNAP-ON has SIMILAR extractors.   Ask me about proper usage of these types of tools, and when to use a Dremel, or when to use an Electric Discharge Machining (EDM).  I have used EZY-OUTS, and many others, successfully.  You can too, if you are LUCKY and CARFULL.

28.   11-42-1-335-394   special 23 mm bolt for filling the thermostat/cooler.  ****Do NOT use if longer than 23 mm!!!

NOTE:  Sometimes very special tools are used for certain jobs.  Generally speaking, if there is an article very specific to that tool, the tool is in that article....such as bore hones...see the engine internals and other articles.    Sometimes you can borrow a tool that you need perhaps once or twice in a lifetime.   There are very special tools required to do certain jobs, such as shimming transmissions and rear drives, and maybe a dozen total specialty jobs in all that require special tools.

Revisions:
updated all to 03/01/2006, minor clarifications...and add #22 entirely.
04/22/2006:  add #23.
04/23/2006:  add emphasis note on screwdrivers for the Bing tops
04/24/2006:  modify that note
08/15/2006:  Edit #20
09/24/2006:  minor clarifications
04/17/2007:  add #24
05/08/2007:  Add photo to #24 and add #25 (3 photos)
05/11/2007:  Add hyperlink in #8, clarify some minor details here and there.
08/14/2007:  Joe's Tools hyperlink/url obtained, item 20
01/19/2008:   Update 20, 22
10/08/2008:   edit entire article for clarity, add #26, etc.  NO errors were in the article, just clarifications needed.
12/30/2008:   Add information about Jeff Trapp
04/19/2009:   Add 27
05/01/2009:   Add pdf drawing to item 24
05/21/2009:  Clarify number and use for the 41 x 27 mm dogbone
03/09/2010:  add information on Jeff Trapp's loaning of cylinder stud threads fix kit.

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