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BMW Motorcycles:

TOOLS
 
(primarily for Airheads)
tools.htm-65

Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer

 

 

Before we get into the meat of this article,
Here an alphabetical list of terminology.

You can skip this first section
 if you have no sense of humor right now,
 ((because you just broke something.......))

 

AIR COMPRESSOR:
A machine with various uses, including collecting water from outside air & attempting to mix it with paint.  
Some say that it is a machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant hundreds of miles
away & transforms that into compressed air, that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench,
that grips rusty bolts last tightened 50 years ago by someone, someplace.....and rounds them off nicely.  
Air compressors are often used with an Air Wrench (see next item). Compressors are used nowadays
with a hand-nozzle to blow small parts into corner areas where they can not be found. This is always
accompanied at the same time with a loud expression of Oh Jesus,...no matter if a Christian....or not.

Air Wrench: 
Tool used with the above item, often used to seriously cross-thread fasteners, to wake up your neighbors,
and to test bolt material strength in a non-laboratory setting.

Allen screw:  
A usually female hex head screw that is designed to frustrate you because it is never marked as to size,
nor if Metric or American. Rounding one off does not make for a good day.   A very special version with
a raised post/tit in the center is especially designed to frustrate your attempts at doing anything but stare
at the screw.   The heads are female, and may have a tit in the center, for reasons I am unable to
describe on a family-type website. See BRISTOL wrench, below.

ARC WELDER:
A device that produces an electrical short that allows 'welding rods' to be stuck to the surface
until they glow red. The operator wears a hood he cannot see out of.  An additional feature is
that stuck welding rods cause the welding machine to hum tunes.

BANDSAW:

A device used to destroy circular shaped metal bands that have teeth on one side.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER:
A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from an old-fashioned flooded (slosh) battery to the
inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you
thought.  It does double duty for bleaching & destroying blue jeans in small spots. Some are
made with glass that are designed to easily break.  Many were specifically made with paper
printed charts glued to the float, designed to last only a few years, at which point the chart
unrolls, the float sticks, and you need to purchase a new tester.

BRISTOL wrench and BRISTOL screw: 
Bristol wrenches fit Bristol screw heads, for which a brief glance seems to appear to be of
the Allen type. Those with exceptionally brief glances may even think it is a Torx, or some
other new-fangled screw head. The real Bristol screw is designed to PURPOSELY frustrate
you and no auto-parts store clerk or hardware store clerk under the age of 75 has ever
heard of the name Bristol Wrench, nor has seen the screw, except some may confuse the
name with some woman (perhaps a Wench) or someplace in England. Clerks will look at you
weirdly if you ask for a Bristol screw or Bristol wrench.  Asking for a Bristol Allen Wrench is
slightly less confounding, but only to those between 80 and 90.  BMW has wisely declined
to put Bristol parts on its motorcycles, in favor of a popular (in Germany) method of annoying
you.  The only more confounding item are Whitworth nuts, bolts and tools.

Bungee cord:
Some sort of stretchy strap tool designed to hold pricey Therm-a-Rest sleeping pads on the
rear of your motorcycle, where they can be lost, never to be found again except by wild animals. 
Occasionally used to suddenly stop a motorcycle quickly and spectacularly.   Come in a variety
of colors and combination colors, even stripes, which makes them especially noticeable when
wrapped-up in spinning wheels.  A bungee cord has been known to smack someone,
indiscriminately, as it disconnects.

CHUCK KEYS:

One of the most commonly lost tools. You never know what type & size to purchase after you
lose one, & don't understand the numbering system anyway, & neither does the clerk at the store.

CORDLESS (anything cordless):
Developed to enhance the profit & loss statements of the battery industry.

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so
that it smacks you in the chest & flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that
fender, fuel tank, etc., that is drying, that you meticulously prepared & painted today.

DRYWALL SCREW:  a very sharp pointed screw specially designed to be left on roadways
to puncture tire sidewalls.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4:
Used for levering a motorcycle upward off a hydraulic jack. 

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:

Normally used for spinning steel pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but also is
great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the wheel.

Exhaust finned nut wrench: 
Used with lots of hand-force to destroy exhaust port threads on BMW Airhead Motorcycles.

E-Z OUT, or other BOLT & STUD EXTRACTORS:
A common tool of many types that snaps off on angles that can't be center-punched for drilling
& removing & anyway it is ten times harder than any known drill bit.  It's primary purpose is break
itself off in bolts already broken.  Rumors are that these tools are designed & sold by
companies who also manufacture cheap poorly-made torque wrenches.

Flashlight: 
A containment vessel for leaking batteries.

GASKET SCRAPER:
Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise or mustard.  Used mainly for
getting dog-doo off your boot. All scrapers should be inspected before making sandwiches.

HACKSAW and AVIATION METAL SNIPS:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy
into a crooked unpredictable motion. The more you attempt to influence it's course, the more
dismal your work becomes.

HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war & later in the Greek Olympics, the hammer
now-a-days is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object
we are trying to hit with the hammer.  Some say that the real purpose is to discolor your
thumb on the hand NOT wielding the hammer, thereby creating new loud phrases. There
are many ways of thinking about hammers, here are a few more:
     If you can't fix it with a hammer, get a bigger hammer.
     If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem.
     If you can't fix it with a hammer, it ain't worth fixing.
     If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
     If it ain't broke, you're not trying.
     If you believe everything you read, you shouldn't read.

Harbor Freight:
A seller of Chinese-made tools & accessories with Americanized names, that may, or may
not, fit whatever you hope they will, & that you hope will last for even as many as three uses. 
Enticing you are daily, if not hourly, advertisements,  especially tabloid-sized, folded-over,
snail-mail sent, 'brochures'.  These all have prices that can vary for the SAME specific item...
depending on WHERE you got the brochure from.  You are not supposed to know about this. 
Serious "Harbor-Freighters" save those coupons for what they are, or may be, interested in,
& often collect enough for the SAME item, to enable selecting the lowest price for any one item,
since the prices are often different depending on where you see the advertising.  Sometimes
this pays off mightily...such as for motorcycle lifts...and FREE STUFF!  HF is good for tools
you seldom need or do not mind losing.  Serious Wrencher's own something from Harbor
Freight that has, mysteriously, held-up over time & use.   A specialty of Harbor Freight is a
line of hard-to-read & sometimes INaccurate torque wrenches; so difficult to read that major
mistakes are possible in their use. Harbor Freight has not missed-the-boat, because they also
sell items to fix problems caused by those torque wrenches. Harbor Freight has red cased
digital multimeters that are strangely accurate and surprisingly useful.  Harbor Freight has
constant giveaways of these multi-meters for you purchase of anything at all in their store.
They may offer similar 'deals' on such as scissors, LED lights, etc...all of which can be
surprisingly usable items....and all of which are certainly worth their FREE cost to you (unless
you purchase something, or many 'somethings'.

HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after you have installed your new front disc
brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly.  Sometimes used to break fins off oil pans and
to crush feet from whatever it is you are lowering.

IMPACT DRIVER:
  

An ingenious
& substantial round metal device with a hidden internal cam; used for loosening
tight/frozen fasteners, especially on old Japanese motorcycles, or any with phillips or
similar looking heads, by using the natural muscle spasm of the operator holding the tool,
when his hand, at the webbing between thumb and forefinger, is struck by the hammer in his
other hand
.  Known to be accompanied by loud screams, often occurring during the brief
period of time just after using this tool to remove frozen Bing Carburetor dome screws,
during which he has broken the ear off the carburetor, due to failure to put a substantial
block of metal under that ear.  Note that not only is the carburetor ear offended, but so
are the ears of bystanders from statements made.   These bystanders are often female
humans.


MECHANIC'S KNIFE:
Used to open & slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front
door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats & motorcycle jackets; has been
known to cause visits to places that stitch up wounds.

OXY-ACETYLENE & PROPANE TORCHES:
Items with a name, TORCH, which certain 'foreigners' think means 'flashlight', which
confuses them, which goes right along with their confusion about Americans anyway. 
Used extensively for setting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Handy for
igniting the grease inside a brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.  Some
use it to heat brake calipers pre-loaded with brake cleaner liquid, which creates
PHOSGENE, which will put you in the hospital in a very sick status, but you get time off
from work. Don't plan on resuming your cigarette habit afterwards.

PHONE:

A re-named tool since battery powered ones were invented, the original name was
telephone.  That was when you could 'tell' it was a phone...and TELL who it was you
might be talking to, or listening to.... or something.  Really early telephones sort-of
looked like candlesticks, so the style was named that.  Modern portable versions are
used extensively for such as calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
floor jack; or, could he come by and get YOURS off YOU.  At least, you WOULD be
calling him....but you left your phone in your car, out in the street.  A more important
use for modern phones is for testing the Cell Phone System on a rainy night in
nowhere's-ville, with a bike that won't start because your battery is older than the hills
...and; your special passenger, never having been on a long ride before, and who you
are trying to impress (and is wondering if motorcycling is REALLY fun)....and, you are
wondering about the tent & sleeping bag you did not bring along (which would have
made the situation tolerable, and even allow a Fun Time, possibly).  (Note:  The cell
phone tower is too far away, so the phone won't work anyway).  
For the UNknowing:  A cell phone tower is a tall structure made to look like an off-color
lousy-leafed-and-branched tree, that grabs the signal from YOUR cell phone and
refuses to pass it constantly or sometimes never, to anyone.   A new type of battery
operated phone appeared a few years ago, called a Smart Phone.  The purpose of a
Smart Phone is to increase profits tremendously of telephone companies who can't
make money on reliable old land-lines.   The method used to extract lots of your money
from your wallet is called a Data Plan.  Most Smart Phone users have worn tips on
index fingers, have lost their phone on occasion, and have spent, over the years,
about half of their retirement money for their Data Plan and/or Roaming features.

PLIERS and VISE-GRIPS:
Used to round off bolt heads.   If nothing else is available, they can also be used to
transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

Posi-driv screw; also known as Pozi, and by unmentionable names.
Unique screw that is often tightened or loosened with a Phillips screwdriver (that
normally will slip before proper torque can be applied and will damage the screw). 
If you have a genuine non-slipping Posi-driv screwdriver, you may consider yourself
either a nerd or 'informed'.  If you have a SupaDriv screwdriver, and know the
difference from a PoziDriv, you are an Advanced Nerd.  If you know what a Reed &
Prince screwdriver is, you ARE a REAL nerd.  If you know what a Frearson screwdriver
is, you are so old that you already have ordered a headstone and have a pre-paid
funeral contract.

PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the $$ metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to
remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

Razor Blade:
A sharp tool specially designed to create nicks in aluminum castings & associated
parts, so that annoying oil leaks will wake you up in the middle of the night from a
sound sleep, trying to figure out how to fix them.
 

Screwdriver, standard flat blade type:
A very versatile tool.  Used for opening paint cans & splashing paint everywhere.
It is normally used on American single slot screws that some idiot used on your
metric motorcycle, but is also used with a heated red-tip to remove the plastic oil
level sight-glass on BMW K-bikes and Oilheads, etc.    Secondary purpose is to
check the color of your blood when left in a rear jeans pocket.
 

Screwdriver, Phillips type:
Specially designed to cam-out when you are removing a screw, and thus you round-out
the screw, which never again can have proper torque applied, same as when you just
tried.    Many Bing carburetors are equipped with these screws, but most had either one
slot screws (very early carburetors), or, have something that only Bing knows the truth
about, but might be Pozi-Driv screws, which are NOT Phillips.  Use of a Phillips screwdriver
will damage PoziDriv screws.  No one understand tip sizes for ANY of these.
Phillips screwdrivers are an abomination, foisted upon the world to confuse & increase
the sales of screw removing tools, which mostly do not work well; thus increases the sales
of most anything. 
 Available high quality steel models are available at prices designed to
make you stop breathing, at least momentarily, by Snap-On, a company that sells products
from converted lunch wagons (usually called Roach Coaches).  Snap-On is in the
business of selling/accepting long term contractual mortgage payments for its products.

Most common use
is to stab the lids of old-style oil cans and splash oil on your shirt. 

Screwdriver, BMW red-plastic-handle type, found in Airhead tool trays:
Occasionally found in the original two pieces, often found with the reversible metal portion
missing.  Slips or cracks when trying to tighten or remove any type of screw.  Does not
properly fit Posi-Driv carburetor screws.  Is exceptionally good in destroying heads &
threads in plastic parts.  Mercedes Benz uses the same Heyco screwdriver in its tool
kits that came with its cars.

SNAP-ON:
 
A manufacturer/distributor of high-quality chrome-plated or polished tools of vast numbers
of types, that cost enough to have you visit a loan officer at the bank (or, you may take
'advantage' of Snap-On's "forever" financing).....that are mostly nice to display on the
wall to impress visitors to your garage with your status in life; whilst your real working set
are actually Sears Craftsman (or; if you are a wannabe, Harbor Freight).   Even the poorest
mechanics always have a FEW Snap-On types used for show-off, at any and all occasions
where wannabe Wrenches grovel at your feet, awaiting pearls of wisdom.   Those that are
in the top 30% of income in their Country (or are not married, have no children and live in a
hovel) may have a vast collection of Snap-On tools, displayed on Pearl-White vertical boards
covering their workroom walls.  These are designed to "WOW" onlookers, unless they belong
to the same Country Club. Ordinary mechanics who own more than a few Snap-On tools are
hard-working honest folks actually trying to rise up in their profession and appreciate the best
tools money (lots of it) can buy. Folks who own hundreds of Snap-On tools are either retired,
or nearly; probably forced to from bankruptcy proceedings; or, in a few more rare instances,
have inherited Dad's repair business.  Snap-ON is actually in a strange business... a shiny
overpriced product that dazzles wannabees and serious Wrenches alike, and can be sold
mostly due to Snap-On's pay-weekly policy; said policy was developed at Harvard Business
School by Yale students who failed at being proper humans, a specialty of Yale.  Snap-On
sales people show up in their converted Roach Coaches just before or during lunch-time,
which is a carefully formulated plot, worked out by many psychologists and psychiatrists. 
The Wonderment Of The Age is how one Snap-On man can be at every business in his
County, at exactly noon, on the same day.  Rumors that they are clones is seemingly the
only answer.    Snap-On also sells rollaway tool chests, the price of even one of which is
equal to a modest fraction of the National Debt.  Snap-on tools are of unquestioned quality.

TIMING LIGHT:
A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease & grunge buildup on rotating machinery.

TOOL BOX:

A place to store tools that you never need, except for glass battery testers.  Very large
tool boxes are for placing in beds of pickups, so as to be more easily lost when you leave
the tailgate open. It is helpful to NOT have a sticky rubber bottom pickup bed, and to leave
oily greasy residue in the bed.  Master Mechanic Tool Boxes are a very special variant,
these are often slangly called Roll-a-ways, because once they are full of Snap-On tools,
they have been known to roll-a-way, in the middle of the night, never to be seen (by you)
again.  These types are made in many varieties, with the best brands having roller
bearings, pricey slides, & large roller feet that might even swivel, usually in the wrong
direction, you cannot move the roll-a-way in any sort of straight line once it contains all
your tools....that means you will covet and maybe purchase another...eventually....after
the USA government pays off the National Debt to China.


TORQUE WRENCH:

Often equipped with strange characters engraved or printed on it, used to test the strength
of various fasteners and threaded joints.  Sales 'engineers' spend a lot of time designing
these torque wrenches, so that you can more easily WRONGLY interpret engraved or
printed figures, on shiny reflective impossible to read metal barrels, and thereby help the
other side of their company's business, which is making and selling broken stud removers
and other threaded fastener removal items.   Harbor Freight products are particularly good.

TORX:

Mysteriously designed tools used to install or remove like-named mysterious fasteners.
These are slowly being phased out as newer mystery fasteners are developed.   There
are several types of mystery fasteners that at first glance look like Torx parts, such as
your Airhead's rod bolts, but turn out to be a different type (after you ruin the bolt which is
a BMW-only part, and never in stock at a BMW dealership). 
  A special Torx screw has
been designed with a raised tit in the middle, purposely to keep your grubby hands out of
various electronics products in your home.   The people who designed the Torx security
screw are the same ones that ceaselessly design one-way screws of various new types,
often tested on men's and woman's public restroom stall doors.  These screw designers
all belong to the International Torx S & M Club.

TROUBLE LIGHT:
Sometimes called a drop light, designed with a handle that seems to be perfect, but
becomes extremely slippery with the slightest grease on your hands, so that when you
drop it, the lamp breaks. Mostly it is used to support the continuing manufacture of
100 watt incandescent lamps (ooopps...I mean 95 watt, it being illegal to make 100 watt
lamps and sell them in the USA).   It may be a source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin",
which is not otherwise found under motorcycles at night. Health benefits aside, its main
purpose is to consume light bulbs of whatever type you have installed in it. More often
dark than light, its name is some-what misleading, due to a typographical error when
originally naming it, the comma between the two words was inadvertently left out.  Many
folks can be found shaking these tools as the light goes on and off.   Some folks, including
the writer of this drivel, have used it to burn or otherwise damage small but visible places
on $$$$ motorcycle seats.

TUBING BENDERS:

These come in various designs with the main purpose being to bend a perfectly good
piece of tubing into various shapes that are good for absolutely nothing, in which you
find you now cannot remove the Tubing Bender, and thus must purchase another. 

TWEEZERS:
 
Indispensable item for removing microscopic whiskers of metal that jumped into your
fingers.  Often used with pins from spouses sewing kit, which always has a trigger
mechanism to allow the contents to fall onto your greasy garage floor, enabling
another cup of coffee and several doughnuts to be consumed before they are all
picked up by you.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST:
A handy tool for testing the strength of ground straps & brake lines you forgot to disconnect.

WARRANTY:  
A piece of paper with printing on it, listing complicated methods (typically costing more than
the tool originally sold for) for coping with a tool's insane guarantee.  No one keeps the
Warranty paper since it is indecipherable about what it really means & everyone hopes
that their tool will last forever.   A Warranty card MAY not necessary with SOME Sears
Roebuck (now owned as part of that bastion of quality, K-Mart) tools, providing you can
read the smallest print and can interpret the Sears "Warranty Change of the Day" and
can understand the difference between the 6235+ makers of Craftsmen products, which
might be spelled Craftsman or anything else. I think it now means CRAFTYman's.  There
are notable exceptions to Warranties, notable because they are hardly ever noted.  
Some manufacturer's have talented Warranty Writers on staff, and some of those have
been promoted to top management levels due to their ability to write warranties that either
mean nothing, or that have special features that allow the product (already designed to
fail at a very certain point of time) to be used as a trade-in, for another similar product,
with pricing factored into the original Warranty.  This is cleverly done by the best Writers,
so that customers will purchase the same product, at an increasing price, forever.  The
very best of these Writers learned at the feet of a vehicle Battery manufacturer salesman,
whose brother was the production design engineer, & whose cousin was the product developer.  

WHITWORTH SOCKETS & WRENCHES:
Once used for older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for
impersonating the 9/16 or 1/2 inch socket or wrench you've been searching for the last 15
minutes; occasionally they are used to impress people with your background working on
unreliable British machinery.   No one understands the numbers, or how they are used,
on ANY Whitworth item.

WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans rust off old bolts & then throws them somewhere under the workbench at the speed
of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls & hard-earned guitar calluses from your fingers in
about the time it takes you to say "Ouch....".  
Thrown wires have been known to remove eyesight permanently.

1/2" x 16"-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A large motor mount & other prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined
screwdriver tip on the end opposing the handle.

 


OK, let's get serious........
 

You may be thinking of 'jumping in' and purchasing a lot of pricey tools from such as Snap-on. 
Even if
you are planning to be a professional, I do NOT recommend that.
 

If you do not already have a fair collection of good usable tools, then you COULD go to CostCo or
similar and purchase one of the large tool sets for about $100-$150 if you want to make a fast
entry into tool ownership.  You will STILL have to purchase some tools.
After purchasing such a big set of tools, I suggest you purchase only what you need to augment
what BMW originally provided in the bike's tool tray items. NOTE that some of the tool tray BMW
tools are not needed, or not what you should have.
  Purchase those tools, from whatever source,
that you are SURE you need, perhaps for right now work, and then add to your collection slowly,
as your needs and wants change over the years. 

You WILL need at least one torque wrench.   A Sears Craftsman will do fine; a Snap-On is better,
but much more expensive.  Consider your first torque wrench as a LIFETIME tool, and buy
accordingly, even if a Sears Craftsman.  It should read in foot-pounds (perhaps 75 max) and also
read in Nm. It can be 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive. Consider selecting the drive size based on any sockets
you already own, if extensive.   You will need two or three extensions, perhaps one a few inches,
one 6, one 12 inches.
 

Many tools at yard sales are worn-out, but sometimes you find tools that are poor-looking
because they are somewhat rusty...and a bit of work with a wire brush will make them very
usable.  These may be available very cheaply with a bit of bargaining. 

While it is perfectly OK to purchase used tools if in good basic condition at yard sales, I think
you should NOT do that for the torque wrench.  I advise buying your torque wrench ONLY as
brand-new, because you have no good way of determining how much abuse or accuracy it
has, & a torque wrench is a CRITICAL tool.  I suggest you put off getting an inch-ounce or
inch-pound wrench until it is really going to be needed. 

Initially, be sure you have basic screwdrivers, basic wrenches, a digital multimeter (even the
cheapest or free ones from Harbor Freight are quite adequate), a timing light (which need
NOT be the dial adjustable type), feeler gauges,.... and Allen wrenches in metric sizes. You
do NOT need expensive tools, except that I would not skimp on the torque wrench, get a
decent one. Harbor Freight is NOT the place to purchase a torque wrench.  If you intend to
open a shop or work for a dealership, you will need more tools.  If working for a dealership,
you will find the dealership stocks BMW special tools.

There is more information about what torque wrench to get, at #7, well below, in PART 2.

MANY of the BMW-sold tools are NOT expensive....especially the open end and box end
type of wrenches....and may be cheaper than even Sears, although not as cheap as Harbor
Freight.   BMW tools are made of GOOD HARD METAL.  However, the basic big set from
CostCo will be better in some respects.  I do think that you should have the NEEDED
BMW-sold
basic tools to carry on the bike, & a large set of basic tools at home.  You can
skimp by reducing home tools and using standard tool kit BMW bike tools in many, if not
most instances. 

To do a good job use the right tool.  Your BMW Airhead came from the factory with a
GOOD, made of high quality metals, tool kit....with ONLY A FEW, probably just two,
exceptions.
   This was especially so for the earlier models. 

Here are those exceptions:

(1) The red-plastic-handle-screwdriver with the reversible Phillips/conventional tip, was
almost cheap junk...but usable...unless overly torque'd. Keep it if you want to.  LOTS
better screwdrivers available. 
  Note that most of the carburetor top screws are
NOT really true phillips.  See 71-11-1-103-086  well below for deeper discussion.

(2) The BMW provided pliers should be discarded in favor of one more useful and easier
to use (the stock one is also typically way too stiffly assembled).

Description of BMW original tool kits as shipped with the motorcycles:

There was a Master Tool Kit, possibly you may have heard it called a PRO tool kit, part
71-11-1-237-840, that had extra items, & some slightly different versions of the standard
tools.   This kit would hardly, in its roll bag, fit your bike's tool tray.  DON'T bother purchasing
this kit unless you either can't help yourself, or it is amazingly cheap.
  SOME of the tools
in the Master Kit had different COMBINATIONS of SIZES.  Some of those tools later
became the standard for the bike's kits as shipped. In a number of instances some of
the original standard tools ordering numbers were superseded by the Master ("super tool kit")
part numbers.    Basically, either of those tool kits, regular or Master, are quite adequate
for most or at least many needs. The Master Tool Kit contains too many little-to-be-used
items, and is really not worth purchasing new. Sometimes there was no visible, or hardly,
any difference in the 2 tools that look alike...THAT typically comes up but rarely, & usually
it is in the instance of the 27/36 mm dogbone tool. One of the things not so well-known, is
that the Master Tool Kit Professionals' tool set had sockets, a test lamp, etc....you are
UNlikely to really need or want those particular ones.

BMW included (in the original owners tools) a BMW name & logo printed rag.  Also included
was a small open end (both ends) wrench. There were TWO versions of this particular
wrench. One version was 7 x 9 mm; the other was 7 x 8 mm.  I STILL, after all these years,
do not have full information on why. BMW did have BOTH of those wrenches in a few tool
kits; but usually just one or the other.   BMW did the same sort of thing with one other wrench:
10/11 mm & 8/10 mm.  BMW never included any 9 mm socket in the PRO version.  There
were some throttle cables with locking nuts with 9, not 10 mm size, & some manufactured
very slightly over 10 mm, strangely.  I think the difference came about from what company
made the various control cables for BMW.

To properly maintain your Airhead, you won't need but a modest collection of other tools. 
You need NOT go overboard on these.
   Get tools when needed!

This article lists various tools, and BMW part numbers where I happen to know them.  This
article ALSO lists some specialty tools. SOME of these tools really SHOULD be in your
bike's tool kit.  NOTE that I have made some, but few attempts to check the part numbers
against possible later number changes.  Your BMW dealer will do that automatically.    The
owners set varied over the years.  Perhaps you already know that a FEW of the tools were
changed a bit, or eliminated. For instance, the /5 had a 'rod' used in adjusting the steering
head, which was later dropped because the later steering heads used an improved adjustment
method.

The points and valves tool assembly was dropped, after an interim period where it was first
modified (with a tool being part of it that adjusted the ATE master cylinder piston stroke).  
This points  valves and master cylinder tool-in-one is rather neat and takes up very little
room in the bike's tool tray.   THERE ARE TWO PHOTOS AND FURTHER DESCRIPTION
LATER IN THIS TOOLS ARTICLE.   see:  71-11-9-090-154, below, and paragraph following
it too.  That tool is still available, even aftermarket.


Part I: Some tools you can consider, some that are a waste of money....some are
              NOT needed.   Discussion at various places here on things to know. 

This is NOT a complete & total list of the tools that came with your bike kit.  Pick &
choose as needed.   Some tools will NOT be applicable to YOUR bike.    It is a very
good idea to inspect your own Airhead & determine just what tools you need at
home, & what tools you need on the bike, & in some FEW instances you need two
of one size (I have some notes later herein about that sort of thing).   Note that if you
mix American and Metric fittings, which is not a good idea for your bike for several
reasons, you may have to carry more tools.

BMW has made hardware changes that WILL, or could, affect what tools you carry. 
BMW has not announced this as a special SI. In instances you are purchasing nuts
& bolts from BMW, be sure that your new nuts & bolts have the SAME WRENCH SIZE
HEADS as your originals.  BMW has made changes to SOME head sizes, USUALLY
using the same part number
.  As an example, 18 mm heads, instead of the original
19 mm; 16 mm heads, instead of the original 17.   If you find this situation at the
dealership, ASK if they have any original 19 or 17 mm; they may be in the same box,
as they may have same part number!  There is no good reason you should have to
carry both 18 mm & 16 mm wrenches besides the normally carried 19 mm and 17 mm,
if you knew about this....and, now you do!  Just be sure to check YOUR BIKE, to be
sure you have all the sizes of wrenches (and different types, A/R) as needed.

It is BEST to look at catalogs, or see at your dealers screen or the actual tools; or, whatever
you have available to you that shows drawings or pictures of any tools, before you go
purchasing any.  Again, check the sizes of the tools YOU need, and how many of each.

 

71-11-1-232-356   This wee wrench is three in one, with a 7 mm & 8 mm at end & middle,
                                 respectively, & an open 9 mm at one end.  Not very useful, in actual
                                 practice, except on earliest airheads, somewhat.

71-11-1-237-858   Hook wrench.  You may or may not need/want this one.

71-11-9-090-129   Tubular two ended wrench used at the valve cover acorn nut, & a few
                                 other places. There are much better tools.  This tool fits sloppily, but
                                 usably, at the acorn nut.  You MAY like to have it in the bike tool tray. 
                                 I think this wrench is 15 mm and a sloppy 19 mm.


Five Allen wrenches follow.  You certainly do not need BMW's own, but they are pretty tough.

07-11-9-906-032   8 mm allen wrench; 71-11-1-237-849

07-11-9-906-026   6 mm allen wrench; 71-11-1-237-850

07-11-9-906-020   5 mm allen wrench; 71-11-1-237-851

07-11-9-906-014   4 mm allen....was erroneously sometimes -914 (?),
                                 replaced by 71-11-1-237-852

07-11-9-906-008   3 mm allen wrench;  07-11-1-237-853
 

71-11-1-230-684   Special two-ended wrench (often called a Dogbone wrench from its appearance). 
                                
F
its early 36 mm fork top caps, early fork top center acorn nut, 27 mm headlight
                                 ear 'nuts', & 27 mm swing arm lock nuts.  Originally 71-11-1-230-684. 
                                 Replaced by 71-11-1-237-857, basically the SAME tool.
  
                                 Keep reading...there is another size too.


                                Very tough metal in the flat portion, can be used with a substantial hammer A/R
                                if using the 36 mm end.  The 27 mm end is for emergency use only at the swing arm
                                nuts, although OK at the headlight ears.   The 27 mm end may not fit FULLY
                                into MOST swing arm lock nut cavities, which MAY have, upon close
                                inspection, TWO different internal diameters or ridges.  Grind the outside
                                of the 27 mm end of this tool to fit all the way in...be sure the tool fits through
                                the swing arm adjustment cavity hole FULLY in depth, & FULLY & SQUARELY
                                onto the thin nut.  Any internal taper just inside the end of this tubular wrench
                                should be ground/sanded flat, as the swing arm nut is thin & you want a solid
                                grip on it. 
  A wee bit of sanding belt/disc action here is OK...just do it SQUARELY
                               
I NORMALLY DO NOT use the 27 mm end for the swing-arm nuts, as these nuts need
                                about 70+ foot-pounds, a level these dogbone tools will usually not allow before
                                distorting the tubular 27 mm end. At home or in the shop I use a modified 27 mm or
                                1-1/16" socket for the swing arm pivot locking nuts...see later in this article for photos
                                 & comments on the needed modifications to this socket. 
                            ***Note:  some folks use sockets on the fork tube top nuts.  Be cautious, as sockets
                                            are made such that the inside of the working end have a relief taper.  I
                                            suggest you sand or use a lathe or grind off the socket end, so it is FLAT,
                                            AND SQUARE, and there is NO inside taper at the end.  Failure to do this
                                            can let the socket slip altogether too easily on the nuts, and round the nut
                                            corners, and also cause bruised fingers/hands.

                                ONE OTHER modification to the dog bone wrench could be considered:

                                Grind the flat part of the 36 mm end of the wrench for perhaps 90 or 120 degrees
                                circularly across the top, so that the end of this 36 mm end is somewhat thinner;
                               
this allows the tool to fit over the top acorn nut withOUT having to remove NOR
                                LOOSEN the handlebars.  See the crudely drawn circled area on the photo below.

                               
BMW also makes this style of dogbone wrench with a 41 mm flat end (but
                                same 27 mm tubular hex at other end).  Used on some later Airhead models
                                and for the Earles fork old models.   71-11-2-303-517.
   See note below photograph.

                           
    This photo is of an UNmodified dogbone wrench.....but a crudely drawn white
                                circle shows the general area for thinning the wrench, which I suggest be
                                done on only ONE SIDE of the wrench, best the TOP as shown in the photo. 
                                Bikes vary some, & you don't likely need very much thinning.  Check YOUR
                                bike, to see how much thinning works for you.  This wrench happens to be
                                a 41/27 mm type, but the 36/27 looks the same except the flat end is 36 mm
                                and is stamped 36, not 41.




NOTE!    Some very late model Airheads needed BOTH of these dogbone wrenches. 
These particular bikes needed 41 mm for the two forks tops; and 36 mm for the
central locking nut at the steering stem.  Be sure you have what you may need.
You do not have to carry any of these dogbone wrenches in the on-bike tool kit.

 

See part II, below, item #26, for the SOCKET you should have, to fit the 27 mm swing
arm nuts, to keep in your home garage tool kit....as it is vastly better than the above
dog-bone tool...
FOR THAT PARTICULAR PURPOSE. 


71-11-9-090-139   Old exhaust pipe hook wrench used for early models through /6 with holes
                                 in the nuts.  Don't purchase unless you have the need. You do NOT likely
                                 need THAT wrench!   I highly suggest you use an aftermarket wrench
                                 if you have finned nuts!!!
Various exhaust finned nut tools are available.
                                 The best wrench to remove a finned exhaust pipe nut is an
                                 AFTERMARKET type.  For emergencies you can purchase a common
                                 Strap Wrench at autoparts or tools stores, but these CAN cause
                                 damage to the fins although that that can be minimized with a bit of
                                 old tin can or part/piece of your leather waist belt.  Some carry some
                                 form of exhaust pipe finned nut wrench in the tool tray on the bike.
                                 I NEVER DO, unless taking it along for a TechDay.  

                                DO NOT FAIL TO OWN ONE OF THE AFTERMARKET WRENCHES.
 
                                 I show three good types below.  YOU WILL use one these tools at least
                                once a year, as YEARLY unfastening, cleaning, & applying fresh antiseize
                                compound
is a MUST for the exhaust port finned nuts.

                           
    The first photo is of a small tool-tray-sized version of a finned wrench,
                                 available from aftermarket suppliers.  It is used with a square drive
                                 socket wrench, so you have to carry that tool too.   I did see an Airhead
                                 owner weld a square nub onto another tool he carried, making it a
                                 dual-purpose tool.   If  you actually wanted to measure the torque you
                                 are applying, this tool can do that with appropriate calculations....but,
                                 so can most other exhaust port finned nut tools! I do not measure the
                                 torque, I tighten by feel.   I use LESS torque than BMW specifies...I
                                 believe BMW's spec is way too high.
 

 

To contact cycleworks, use cycleworks.net  
You MAY want to see the contact information
in this article, way below, at #20.

                               
 

          
Here is an interesting version made by Guy Hendersen; a good tool.
http://www.hendersenprecision.com 
                               

 

Here is what I personally own/use; and I never carry it with me on the bike
unless going to a TechDay.
Check with your BMW dealership & other sources, as to where to get one like this. 
They are substantially-made of cast or forged aluminum.  These contact MORE fins
than most other types, spreading the load better.  For the anal types, you can use a
small thin file to make them fit more perfectly, although hardly necessary.   These
work nicely with a big hammer or small sledgehammer or piece of 2 x 4 lumber or
a nearby rock, when you have the need. I do NOT carry this, nor any other, on my
bike.  NOTE that it is certainly possible to put a 3/8" or 1/2" square hole in the
handle, and then use a torque wrench; calculations are easy.  I never do, I always
tighten by feel, at much less torque than BMW says!

                                   

 

71-11-1-237-855    SHORT tire iron, was replaced by -871 which is the longer one.   I prefer my on-bike
                                 tool kit, if I have tube type tires, or simply carry things to help others with, have TWO
                                 short & ONE long.
I have been told that BMW discontinued the short irons.
                                 In that instance, I'd purchase and carry THREE BMW long ones.
   There are
                                 aftermarket tire irons available that are quite good.   Most are much larger.

Tire repair kit:   Type depends on whether or not you have tubes in your tires.  It also depends on if you
                              carry parts to repair other folks 'problems'.  While you WILL want to carry a tire repair
                              kit, I recommend against CO 2  bottles (ANY size).  I HATE those high pressure
                              cylinders; seldom enough of them with you; and a very small 12 volt compressor,
                              see below, is VASTLY better. Important is something to de-bead the tube-type tire. 
                              I have made such tools from C-clamps with welded pieces on the anvils, & there are
                              commercial types available of strong light plastic that are cleverly designed.  Others
                              are metal and/or massive.  There are some complete kits...well, almost, of tire irons,
                              patches/plugs, glue, whatever.....available.  These may include a cylinder (via spark plug
                              hole) operated air compressor & they work fine.  You can purchase, very cheaply,
                              under $20, a very small 12 volt electric compressor, these are all made in China.
                              Remove the innards including the fan, make a plug for it to fit your auxiliary jack....or
                              alligator clips to go directly to the battery.   BOTH of these types of compressors...
                              spark plug hole...or electric... are FAR better to have than the near-worthless BMW
                              hand pump that fits onto places for it on the upper left rear frame.  The electric
                              compressors are also available for nearly $80, mounted in a modest sized can/box. 
                              I think them a waste of money.   You can purchase small low-cost compressors at such as
                              WalMart, & then remove & toss the case.   WalMart also likely has really small
                              cased versions that need no modifications except the correct BMW accessory plug (if
                              you want that).  Coleman also sells a small compressor that does not need the case
                              removed.   For some other ideas on tire repairs....see: 
                                             http://www.stopngo.com
                             
StopnGo plugs don't work as well with steel corded tires, but if you ream
                              the hole really well on those tires, you can use them, but be prepared to replace the
                              plugs if on a long trip.

                              Be sure that if you use the cylinder spark plug hole style of compressor, the compressor
                              hose is long enough.  Do NOT forget a bead-breaker.....unless you are confident of using
                              your foot (never good for me, I weigh 150)....or one side of the center-stand or the
                              side-stand, etc.  Be SURE you have practiced!    There are quite a few types of
                              bead-breakers on the market.  I prefer my homemade one, made from a very large
                              C-clamp, with some added curved pieces welded to the anvils....same shape as the
                              wheel rim edge...so it fits the tire right next to the rim.

                      Recommended tire repair tools are located here:
                      http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/tirerepair.htm

71-11-1-230-752   The stock standard on-bike tool bag itself.   This is the one to get if you want one.  
                                The larger bag for the master tool kit was 71-11-1-237-870.

71-11-1-103-092  Pliers w/side cutter.   71-11-1-237-861 is a side cutter only tool.   
                               For both, there are better ones from most hardware stores, even Harbor
                               Freight!
  I prefer a good heavier-duty side cutter pliers & a good old-fashioned
                               pump-slip-joint-pliers.  Consider having a side cutter PLUS slip-joint type
                               called a Channel-Lock. 
                              
NOTE:  BMW's version of the Channel-Lock is 71-11-1-237-862, which replaced
                               71-11-1-179-522.   

71-11-9-090-154  Feeler gauge & ATE master cylinder adjustment gauge set.  This is a small
                               riveted-together multi-tool item, of good quality.  You don't have to have this tool but
                               these are nice AND SMALL.  Particularly convenient if you have have ignition POINTS
                               where you have little room to work in. For adjusting the valves, a common set of feeler
                               gauges, in 'go, no-go', is nicer. You CAN use this BMW tool for the valves. MANY
                               FOLKS PREFER THIS BMW TOOL!   Minimalists carry just the BMW small standard
                               feeler blades tool. You could also just disassemble any common feeler-gauge set &
                               carry just the minimum.  Sizes you would want are  ~ .017" (if you have points), .004" or
                               .005" and one of .008" or .009" for setting valves.  A gauge for spark plugs is part of the
                               -154 tool.  I personally prefer the round circle type of spark plug tool, which has
                               graduated hard wires, they include a bending tool.  Those ARE better, wires do a much
                               more accurate job on worn spark plugs as the grounding electrode gets concaved as
                               the spark plug gap wears.   This is a moot point, because:
                               I highly recommend you do NOT EVER change the gap of USED spark plugs.  Even
                               if used just once.  Once a spark plug is run, the ground electrode metal undergoes a
                               metallurgical change; if you try to bend it, you may weaken it; there have been rare
                               instances of electrodes breaking off & doing internal engine damage.
                          
                              The later version of this BMW tool has a gauge for the ATE master cylinder that
                               is under the fuel tank.  
ATE Master Cylinders require an adjustment, which was done
                               with a special U-shaped flat metal tool, that BMW provided in the owner's tools.  This
                               tool sets the master cylinder piston FOR THE FREE PLAY AT THE BARS LEVER.
                               HOWEVER, the real purpose of the tool is to be sure the piston in the master cylinder
                               sticks outwards JUST the correct amount, so the bleed-back hole in the MC is not 'covered'.
                       
       The handlebars lever free play, which is not critical, is to be 0.16" to 0.24", as measured
                               where the lever end contacts the casting. When the lever is not under hand pressure, the
                               BARS lever end CONTACTS the bars casting; just to make this measured point clear in your
                               mind.  To set this bar lever free-play, by some published methods, you must remove the
                               fuel tank, insert the special tool (pry off the rubber cover) into the master cylinder after
                               loosening the cable adjuster locknut located at the MC.  There is a groove in the MC
                               piston for this gauge.  Adjust so the tool is JUST free to move, then tighten the locknut.
                               There is nothing OVERLY critical about this tool, but it should be flat, smooth, & the
                               thickness fairly close to the original.  I measured an original one, in case you want to
                               duplicate it:  The thickness of the metal is fairly important, the original one was
                               0.046"THICK.   The tool length is not important, the original was about 2".  The width of
                               the tool was 0.592".  The slot in the tool's long end was to a depth of 0.642" with a full
                               radius at the bottom; the slot width was 0.363".  It is certainly possible to do the
                               adjustment without the tool.  You can also make the tool of different dimensions,
                               just keep the THICKNESS.  NOTE that you can adjust the master cylinder so the bars
                               lever has more free play, for smaller or less muscular hands.



Greg Feeler makes a round cylindrical tool for help in setting the pre-1979 points. 
Nice goody, not absolutely necessary, but loved by many. The photo, below, is of a
similar points tool, this one came from Northwoods Airheads. 
It includes the points gap feeler gauge.

The dimensions of the tools has varied a bit between who made them. 
They need to fit smoothly and not excessively tight...nor too loose.
Typically the tool is 0.472" OD and 0.344" ID.  I've seen the ID be
up to perhaps 0.352".  Got a lathe? Make one.
 

 

 

 



Below is a photo of the original & still-made
tool by Paul Tavenier,
shown on Cycleworks.net
website, but made by Paul. REALLY NICE!

71-11-1-234-860   The classic BMW tire pump that fit on the frame.  You will find this strictly a nostalgia
                                item, as it is a hassle to use...can take an hour to pump up a tire & you risk bending
                                the valve stem.   Preferable is the spark plug adapter type of pump, or, especially,
                                the $12 WalMart or other 12 volt Chinese-made compressors as noted well above.

51-25-1-238-375   Cable lock.  Fits in the frame tube under the tank.  Plenty of choices on the market.
                                Your Airhead's steering head neck has a lock.

71-11-1-103-086   Screwdriver.  Phillips and standard single slot, the single shank reverses for this.
                                 BMW's red-plastic-handled screwdriver that is in the BMW on-bike tool kit,
                                 the one with the reversible insert, probably Heyco, Germany brand, IS FLIMSY,
                                 BREAKS, often NOT THE CORRECT TOOL for the carburetor tops!!!....this
                                 tool is, instead, a common Phillips!!    Mercedes uses this same worthless
                                 tool.  I consider it not my choice; but, read-on:

                                 The cross-point tip is NOT a Pozidriv nor a Reed & Prince tip.  The Reed & Prince,
                                 AKA Frearson, has a 75 angle, & thus can be used with all types of matching screw
                                 sizes. 

Screwdrivers....for Bing CV carbs:
(yes, a whole section on SCREWDRIVERS...FOR TWO SPECIFIC BING SCREWS!!!
(well...maybe some additional information....)

BMW supplies a screwdriver 71-11-1-103-086  in the on-bike tool kit.    ""Phillips"" & standard
flat blade ends, reversible.  The 'Phillips' end is NOT a PosiDrive nor is it a Reed & Prince tip. 
There are better choices, stronger, longer lasting, but it is not always easy to find a screwdriver
that is small, and has both phillips and slot ends, and fits your tools bag for the on-bike kit. 
Some folks purchase one of the SnapOn types, with assorted hardened magnetic tips that
fit inside the handle.  If you have the room and budget, the Snap-On is a QUALITY tool, that
almost never wears out the tips.  Be sure you have the proper size tips. 
The proper Phillips size is #2 for the carburetor top screws WHEN they are Phillips.   

BMW carb top " phillips" screws are not always really Phillips screws, they just look
that way at a quick first glance. They could be Phillips, OR could be 'PoziDriv' type'...
I suppose they could even be other shapes.   Someone might even have changed
them to allen head types.    The ancient aircraft tip screwdriver called Reed & Prince
 (Frearson) works relatively nicely on the PoziDriv screws....as, of course, does the
real Pozi-Driv.   The PoziDriv tip is EXCELLENT for REMOVING the Phillips type, if
the Phillips is way tight.   Generally install a real Phillips type with a Phillips
screwdriver, but the other types of screwdrivers DO work better.   If the screws are
frozen, you can try a variety of ideas.  The Phillips type of screw was DESIGNED to
not slip as much as others of its time...but, also designed so the TOOL WILL SLIP
after a certain torque is reached.  This is why removing a stuck Phillips screw is so
annoying...especially after some wear on the screw or screwdriver.  Methods of
adding friction for easier removal includes valve grinding compound for a better grip.  
For egregious instances, I use a metal block underneath and an Impakt Driver with
the PROPER TIP.   Tips for interchangeable-tip type tools are available from a variety
of sources, including Snap-On.  The PosiDriv tip IS available.    Some have installed
Allen head screws at the carburetor tops.  They are OK, but don't over-tighten, as
many of these have a very small allen & can round-out more easily.     Some early
carburetors had common slot screws.   BMW & Bing may be, and have, shipped
EITHER PosiDrive or Phillips screws......be sure that your 'screwdriver' fits them.   
Remove the screws one at a time, coat the threads...and under head taper...with
antiseize....and replace the screws without too much torque;.....you will appreciate
these hints much later on.  BMW's red plastic-handled screwdriver that is in the
BMW on-bike tool kit, the one with the reversible insert, probably Heyco Germany
brand, is NOT NECESSARILY THE CORRECT TOOL for the carburetor tops....this
tool is a common Phillips, and not a good one.     The PosiDrive screws generally
have some radiating lines to indicate they are not Phillips type.   Note, again, that the
Pozi type screwdriver will usually work well on Phillips screws.
 
Bottom line:  Try to use a screwdriver that, upon close inspection, really fits the screw.

Here are photos of the Posi-Drive screw, and the screwdriver tip. 
Note the differences from a Phillips....the nearly flat bottom in the
threads and the corresponding flat top of the screwdriver; note
also the angles and the extra (lesser) 'splines' in-between the
major splines.  If the screw looks the same, and no tick marks,
it may be a SupaDriv.
           

A bit more:
The Frearson (Reed & Prince) screws used a screwdriver with a sharp tip, and a wider
angle, thus the screwdrivers could be used on a wide range of screw head sizes.  These
are a very old (now) design, not really used since the seventies.
The typical use was marine hardware.
The Phillips had a more rounded and tapered shape.
There is another name, often used with or similar to the PoziDriv (AND, note that
this screw is actually NOT POZIDRIVE..there is NO E on the end), and that is SupaDriv.
They seem the same, but while their respective screwdrivers will work with each other, not
quite perfectly.  The SupaDrive allows a bit higher torque than the Pozidriv, and the screwdriver
can have a modest ANGLE to the screw....thus is nice for overhead use.
The POZIDRIV has, tick marks, see photo above.
USE OF A PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER ON THESE SCREWS WILL DAMAGE THE SCREW.


Japanese  JIS B 1012:   These are different, but look like Phillips screws, & CAN be used
with a Phillips screwdriver.  These screws are identified by a single dot or a tiny x, on the head.


If the screws are frozen, you can try a variety of ideas, see my carb articles.  These include
valve grinding compound for a better grip, a metal block underneath & an Impakt Driver, etc.   
Snap-On does sell the Pozi tool. The only critical 'Phillips' looking type screw on our Airheads
is the screws used on the top of the Bing CV carburetors.   Some have installed Allen head
screws at the carb tops.  They are OK, but don't over-tighten, as many of these have a very
small Allen and can round-out more easily. I mildly dislike Allen's there.    Some carbs had
common single slot screws.   BMW and Bing may have shipped EITHER Pozi or Phillips screws
......be sure that your 'screwdriver' REALLY fits them, and you may want  to obtain a
Pozi #2 or Reed and Prince screwdriver #2 or tip.    Remove the screws one at a time, try some
heat if stuck, etc....coat the threads...and taper...with antiseize....and replace the screws.   
....you will appreciate those hints, later on.

Pozi screws generally have some radiating lines to indicate they are not Phillips.  Little 
known fact: 
SOME day that Phillips screws & screwdrivers were NOT ORIGINALLY DESIGNED to
cam-out.  That is, they were not designed to prevent over-torquing.   That became 'the effect' as
tooling at the factory & worn screws & worn drivers appeared.

The Pozidriv screw and driver combination is unique, and superior to the Phillips. The tip of the driver
is blunt, which helps it to seat better into the recess in the screw, unlike the Phillips which comes to a
somewhat sharper (but NOT SHARP) point.  This becomes a problem as the tooling that forges the
recess in the head of the screws begins to show signs of wear. The recess becomes more and
more shallow, which means the driver will bottom-out too soon and will cause the driver to cam-out. 
The second unique feature is the large blades on the driver have parallel faces, where the Phillips
 blades are tapered. The straight sides of the driver allow additional torque to be exerted without fear
of cam-out. A Phillips driver will have problems driving a screw with a Pozi-recess, as a Pozi-driver
would have little luck driving a Phillips head screw. It is possible to drive Pozi-drive screws with a
Phillips driver, but you will need to grind down the tip slightly, and expect some slipping to occur.




For a much more complete treatment of these, AND various other screw heads:
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives


71-11-1-237-854 PIN (also called a drift).   You need one of these for the holes in your tubular wrenches,
                              and miscl. uses.   Some folks have sharpened one end to a point, other end to a sharp
                              chisel-scraper, having three tools in one. I don't, as I like to use the drift as a drift.
                              You can use a fat screwdriver blade instead, for turning your tubular wrenches.

71-11-1-237-856  two-ended socket (tubular) wrench, also see 71-11-9-090-105

71-11-1-237-859  point contacts file.  Don't bother owning this.   Filing points is an emergency fix, and I do
                               NOT recommend it except for that emergency use. 

71-11-1-237-860  tire gauge, pencil type.  Don't bother with the BMW tool.   Are better choices.

71-11-1-237-863  Test lamp, called a Control Lamp by BMW.  Don't bother getting the BMW tool.   You
                               can get a simple test lamp with alligator clip on the long lead & a sharp point on the
                               end, from any autoparts store (or Harbor Freight for free or cheap).  Don't get the test
                               lamp type that contains a battery, you will find almost no use for it.   
                               CARRY the non-battery-containing type of test lamp tool on the bike &
                               LEARN HOW TO USE IT!  This is a very simple but VERY USEFUL tool.  It is
                               OFTEN vastly faster & easier to use when tracing an electrical problem. 
                               Shown below are two types, either is fine. 

                                   

                          

 

 

 

 

You don't absolutely need a multi-meter (digital volt-ohm-ammeter-diode tester, etc)
to carry on the bike.  If you want one for the bike, get one that is small.    Get a DIGITAL
type, not mechanical (analog). You can get a digital type, perhaps for free, from Harbor
Freight.  SEE my article http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/multimeters.htm
That article has all the details. Radio Shack had a model 22-812 that folded up nicely.
Below photo is of the Harbor Freight freebie, still packaged.  There are two or three
versions of these, and all are GOOD.  This particular one has the OFF-ON slider switch.
DO own at least one of these types of tools.



71-11-1-230-000  This thin round rod was used on the OLD /5 style steering head clamp arrangement, to
                               hold the collar. You don't need this and COULD substitute an allen wrench already in the
                               kit.   The /5 parts can be replaced by the /6 type parts, and the steering head is
                               then easier to adjust.   That modification IS recommended by me.

71-11-1-237-872   15 mm x 17 mm fork ring wrench

71-11-1-237-864 through -869:   These are a ratchet handle drive, sockets and extension, and there is NO
                              good reason to purchase them nor to carry them in your bike tool kit.  You probably have
                              similar or better tools from other manufacturer's anyway.  The sockets were, in mm
                              sizes:  13, 12, 10, 6.  That makes them of little use anyway.
                            

71-11-1-237-841   7 mm x 8 mm open end wrench

71-11-1-237-842   10 mm x 11 mm open end wrench

71-11-1-237-843   12 mm x 13 mm open end wrench

07-11-9-999-119   12 mm x 14 mm open end wrench

NOTE that you need TWO wrenches, at the same time, to set the valve clearances:
71-11-1-237-844   14 mm x 17 mm wrench.  GET TWO, carry both.

71-11-1-237-845   17 mm x 19 mm wrench.  GET TWO, carry both.

71-11-1-237-846   24 mm wrench, you only need one.

71-11-1-237-847   10 x 12 box end wrench, which replaces 71-11-1-230-579.  ONE is enough.   

71-11-1-237-848   19 x 22 box end wrench.  You MIGHT want two.

Alternator rotor removal tool for the BMW Bosch Alternators:  ALWAYS carry this
alternator rotor removal tool. 
Either get the official BMW tool,  88-88-6-123-600, or get a
good substitute from the aftermarket.  DO NOT!!....use the homemade tool as in the photo
below, unless you are SURE, absolutely SURE, it will work properly & not bend, NOR
COCK SIDEWAYS INSIDE THE ROTOR.
  The photo below shows three types of these tools. 
The factory tool is similar to the left two types shown. Those are grade 8.8 hardened, and so
marked on the heads.  The right-most tool is simply a hardened bolt in grade 8.8 & a hardened
roller bearing, used as a spacer pin.  Use of the tool on the right, shown as Not Approved is for
absolute emergencies, as there can be a VERY serious problem if dimensions are wrong for
the top portion, in either or all the diameter & length & end taper. If you INSIST on making this
tool, it must be of grade 8.8 steel or better.  DO NOT use an old drill shank for the upper piece...
they can be brittle. 
If you have an aftermarket alternator, get the tool that fits properly

If you do NOT use a hardened tool, or in some instances the home-made 2-piece type
as shown in the photo may BEND inside of the rotor, & now you are in DEEP trouble. 
Besides the stock Bosch rotor, where I recommend you do not use two piece tools
as shown...ALSO DO NOT use any such two piece tools in aftermarket rotors, such as
the EnDuraLast Alternator or the Omega Alternator.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 


Part II: Tools you MIGHT want, not necessarily in your on-bike toolkit...but SOME ARE...so see text.

1.  8 mm SMALL wrench, combination type (that means a 8 mm box end on one end...preferably a 12
     point, but harder to find?), and a 8 mm open end on the other end.   You MAY want to BEND this
     wrench with an oxyacetylene torch.   Use for the diode board nuts and inside the case nuts (if present)    
               I carry this one.     BUT, see item 2, below....

2.  SpinTite (or equivalent brand) TUBULAR wrench, 8 mm hex size 'female socket' on end of the barrel,
     usually with a wood or plastic handle but METAL handle is better than the plastic handled type that does
     not have the shank strongly mounted in the plastic.   You might be able to substitute
     SOME types of 1/4" drive 8 mm sockets, or modify such.   I modify the working end of my tubular
     wrenches, so there is NO internal taper that would prevent use on a very thin nuts.  I also grind
     the outside diameter down a fair amount because I use these tool in tight quarters.   Check
     your diode board nuts to be sure your tool does or does not require modifications. 
This tool is
     useful not only for the diode board outer (forward) nuts, but in removing other nuts. This type of tool is
     quite useful for the alternator brush holder, for instance.   A T-handle type is fine but does not fit in the
     tool tray as nicely.  In the photo below, is a notation on thinning the outside diameter, if need-be, usually
     to properly fit the diode board nuts.  CHECK your tubular wrench fit at that place.  IF the END of your
     tubular wrench has a slight INside taper, you might consider sanding it, keeping the end FLAT.
     In the below photo, this is one of my 8 mm types, which I KNOW has a good construction INside.
    
 

3.  36 mm socket, SQUARED-OFF at the working end as shown below.  This eliminates the internal taper
     at that end.  Do this on a lathe, unless you are good at grinding or sanding, as the end MUST BE FLAT
     AND SQUARE.  See notes on the photo.  The comment about pressuring is because the fork springs
     are often under pressure during installation of the top cap, and hard to push down. You do not have to
     have the wood piece.

4.  88-88-6-002-560 or equivalent BMW tool to allow a torque wrench to properly fit the driveshaft bolts at
     the transmission output flange. USUALLY a home tool. 
  The BMW-sold tool consists of a 3/8" square drive
     female part with a slit in the side.  Pressed & brazed into that slit is a 12 point 10 mm off-set box end
     wrench.   That wrench was simply a double ended wrench of some sort, cut to be shorter, one end
     discarded.  When using this tool, typical is to use it straight-out with the torque wrench, not at any angle
     to the torque wrench. The center-to-center distance of the working ends of this tool, compared
     mathematically to the distance between the working center of the torque wrench square drive & the center
     of pressure of the torque wrench handle, will determine the setting BELOW the official maximum torque
     amount, 29 footpounds, that you must set the wrench to.  In ALL instances except use at 90, the torque
     wrench will be set to LESS than 29 ftlbs if the wrench is used straight out.  If the tool is at 90 to the
     tubular torque wrench, there is NO correction needed.  
You can use the dual box wrench (10/12mm),
     with your glove, & fairly easily get near the 29 ftlbs, which is my maximum for you.

     MORE on adaptors in this #4 section, below.

    The truth is that 'A Good Grunt' on any hand wrench on these bolts will "do", but will be highly
     variable.  I prefer to use a real torque wrench, with an adaptor; so, read this entire long section::
 
     I have the threads clean & relatively free of oil, nea-dry & one drop of Loctite BLUE on the threads. 
     NOTE:  Old Airheads used a split washer under the bolt head. If you have them, remove the
                   bolts & washers & get new BMW shorter bolts & do NOT use any washer.
                   Details on this website: 
  http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/drvshftboltstoolstorque.htm

Here's a HINT!....if you don't want to purchase a -560 tool, or a Snap-On adapter, or adaptor of some
sort such as shown below, here is how to get by for ZERO cost:    Dig into your tool drawer for a
combination 10 mm wrench.  That means it has a 10 mm 12 point box end and the other end is an
open wrench.   If you are VERY lucky, you have a more rare wrench, that is 10 mm box at one
end and 11 mm box at the other end. That is a preferred wrench for this hint:  The 10 mm 12
point box end fits the driveshaft bolts.  If the other end is a 10 mm open end, simply use that with
the 3/8" drive of the torque wrench, and do not let it slip out while in use.  If you use this wrench
as an adaptor with your torque-wrench, straight out, you must reduce the torque wrench setting,
in accordance with the method shown in my torque wrench article (with notes on being sure).  If
you use the wrench as an adaptor with your torque wrench but at 90 degrees to the torque wrench,
you need NOT do calculations, just read the value off the torque wrench (29 ftlbs for U-joint bolts at
the transmission output flange on Airheads). 
If you have the rare 10mm/11mm dual box end, the 11 mm BOX end fits the 3/8" square drive of
the torque wrench!  I prefer either of the two tools below, or its home-made equivalent.
   You CAN
use the dual box-end wrench in the on-bike tool tray, with a rag to protect your hand and a GOOD
GRUNT, with or without a torque wrench.  Using a known good torque wrench setup IS BEST. Three
photos here of the -560 type offset wrench & are the actual factory tools.   The 4th photo, of the
flat tool is a small & simple tool, available from cycleworks.NET, that will work well for you. You may
have to use a fine file on the square hole to have it fit YOUR wrench perfectly.  It is 1.5 inches
center to center, and hardened metal, which I think is laser-cut.



 

NOTE:   I am adding this note because there have been rare instances in which someone
has questioned just what BMW means by its torque figures.  This question arises now and
then for other areas of the bike, not just the output flange.  This is because using a torque
wrench at a limited clearance area of such as the driveshaft U-joint flange bolts requires an
adaptor, see above 4 photos, which "can" add to the working-length of the torque wrench,
INcreasing the torque value from that set on the torque wrench......unless the adaptor is
used at 90.  My torque wrench article describes using extensions more precisely...but,
here will add brief commentary.  When this question comes up, it almost always is in regards
to the tightening method for the 4 driveshaft bolts, that hold the U-joint flange to the
transmission output flange.  

>>>The torque figure is the value on the bolt itself, whether or not you use an adaptor from
the torque wrench to the bolt.
 This is standard for industry, & applies unless specifically
noted to be different by the manufacturer.  BMW never made this clear & BMW's own wording
can be wrongly interpreted.

The factory specified torque is what IS to be applied to the BOLT, & you MUST calculate the
adjustment factor for the torque wrench if the adaptor is not used at 90.  In every instance,
where the adaptor extends the working distance of the torque wrench, the torque wrench
will need to be set to a value LESS than the value of the actual torque you want applied to
the bolt head.   I highly suggest that if you use the adaptor, you use it at 90; or, straight-out. 
Any angle besides those TWO requires trigonometry calculations.  To make this 100% clear,
if you use the adapter straight out from the torque wrench, you MUST do calculations, but
NO trigonometry is needed.

5.   6 mm and 8 mm male Allen Wrenches with 3/8" square drives. The 6mm one is used for adjusting the
      swing arm with your torque wrench.  The 8 mm one is used at the lower triple clamp bolts.  Home
      tools.  

6.  Piston ring compressors:   One of the ways of installing pistons is to insert them into the cylinders so
     only the hole for the piston pin is showing, then install the pin and its locks.  Another method is to leave
     the piston on the rod when a cylinder is R/R.   You need strong fingernails to compress the rings, and
     must do so carefully in any event...you do not want to break the fragile rings or damage a piston.
     Many prefer a ring compressor tool.  If you are likely to almost never need a ring compressor more
     than once, and are a cheapskate (perfectly OK in my book), then you can make one from a strip you
     cut from a metal coffee can; or, use a very large band clamp, etc.    If you want a real ring
     compressing tool, I highly suggest you get one that allows it to be used even when the cylinder is partly
     onto the studs.  That means a compressor with detachable bands.   A nice tool is made by KD Tools,
     their model 850, a set of bands and handle with excellent adjustability.   About $50-$60 when
     discounted...do an internet search.

7.  Torque wrenches.  For your first one, get a GOOD QUALITY tubular 'clicker'. Don't skimp on
     quality...you need this wrench to be reliable, accurate and to last a lifetime.   Bottom reading of zero
     or maybe 5 to 8 foot-pounds is more typical, is OK, top reading of  75 (75 is best) to 100 foot-pounds is OK.
     DO NOT get this wrench with a top reading over 100 foot-pounds.   I recommend EITHER a half inch drive, &
     obtain a 1/2 to 3/8 inch square drive adapter; or, a 3/8 drive torque wrench, with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter.
     You will also want a 6 inch or so extension (male-female) in the same drive as the torque wrench. This
     allows you to space the torque wrench outward if you need to....even if you already have deep-well
     sockets.   If you already have an old BEAM type torque wrench, that is fine but if not a good pricey
     DIAL-beam type, you should NOT use it for critical things like head nuts
; ... SO...if you have a
     Professional beam type with a round DIAL, that is great. 

     You can use just about any type of torque wrench for such as the 27 mm swing arm locking nuts as the
     settings are not critical. 


     Some tubular clicker wrenches are hard to read; best to get one with TWO WINDOWS readouts...one
     in ftlbs, one in Nm.  SOME have awful faint clicks at low settings.  Do NOT trust tubular clicker
     wrenches at the lower end of the adjustment  range....that means under about 8% of the
     maximum setting.

     I DISlike the ones with chromed & lightly engraved or stamped tubes that are hard to read;.... you do
     NOT want to make a mistake in reading YOUR WRENCH!   STORE your torque wrench at a LOW setting,
     but not below on-scale.   Three articles are on this website on torque wrenches and torque
     settings:   #71A, 71B, 71C.
 
 

     Some folks use a torque wrench at places I use hand-feel.  YOU may need a more sensitive wrench,
     such as a inch-pound wrench for a few uses.  I tighten pan bolts & ignition ATU nuts by hand, as two
     examples.   If someone was to do the final tightening with a torque wrench, they should not try to using
     a 8+- to 75 footpound torque wrench, but, instead, use one that was clearly in its range for 72 INCHpounds,
     for example for pan bolts.  Thus, while you really must have a 75 (or 100) ftlb maximum torque wrench,
     whether or not you own a small lower range wrench is up to you.   I have found that for an inch-pound
     wrench that is very rarely used, that the cheap ones from such as Harbor Freight are adequate and
     vastly less expensive than top-of-the-line wrenches such as from Snap-On. However, I have had
     reports of BAD ones from Harbor Freight....but you can check the calibration yourself, rather easily.

8A.  Tool to hold crankshaft from moving forward.  If you remove your flywheel for any reason, be sure to
     set the engine to OT (top dead center, Oberer Totpunkt) first, and be sure that OT is STILL in the
     timing window when replacing the flywheel.
   It is a MUST to mechanically block the crankshaft
     from moving forward
before removing a flywheel.  This can be done in several ways, I recommend you
     do NOT use a towel or stuffed-rag in the timing chest!    One of the neatest methods (I invented this
     one) is to just make a tool out of a piece of 6 mm Allen wrench material, and weld a 1" (or so) steel
     disc or 'fender washer', maybe 1/16" thick, onto one side, making the length such that its Allen end fits
     into the alternator bolt, and the disc end presses against the outer timing chest cover.  Usually 3/4 inch
     overall...>BUT>>  The length should be such that some light pressure can applied by the cover, the
     cover being screwed back onto the engine LIGHTLY, and the cover can't quite fully be brought back to
     the engine surface due to this tool's length.   This is for your home tools...but....since so small, you
     could carry it in the tool tray on the bike, but you are UNlikely to ever need it while touring unless
     to help someone else with a major problem.   Weld it squarely to the straight piece of 6 mm Allen
     wrench.    The last time I made one of these, I made it to fit my 1983 and 1984 R100RT bikes, and the
     OVERALL length actually was 3/4". There is a cautionary article on this website, dealing just with that
     crankshaft problem, with additional details in case you accidentally (?) goof-up.  
     go to: article #81, here is a direct clickable link: 
     http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/flywheelremovalwarning.htm

   This is the tool I invented and made for myself and a few others.

Don't want to make that tool?    Here is another type:  Just use a 8 mm bolt, screw it into the
rotor; leave enough of the bolt sticking out of the rotor, so that the front cover will bear on it.

8B.  Flywheel holding tool.  Easily made.  This tool allows you
       to unscrew, or tighten, the 5 flywheel bolts.


See item 24 for more clutch and flywheel tools.

9.    This is a tool that is very simple, solves a real problem, that you may never need, never use.  It is shown
       here, & similarly in another article, because it is something to know about.   On the FAIRED models,
       BMW uses a tubular (hollow) rivet, to fasten a black plastic trim piece (that contains a clock & voltmeter)
       to the fairing.   You need a tool to tighten loose rivets for various reasons, such as fairing repairs &
       installations, loose dash pieces that can cause difficult to find noises, installation of Parabellum windshields
       that use an additional black plastic cover piece that fastens to two centered BMW rivets, ETC.  The BMW
       hollow rivets need to be fairly tightly fastened to the fairing, but do not over-tighten.  The problem is how
       to tighten them.  The secret is very simple!   You obtain a drywall screw.  Carefully grind (do not overheat
       the screw which is very tough unless overheated) the threaded area as in the photo, so that the threaded
       area will just smoothly enter the 'chuck' of a common pop-rivet installer hand lever tool, using the 3/16"
       diameter chuck.
  To use, insert the screw from underneath via fingers or forceps, use the pop-rivet tool on
       the outside.  The reason to not use over a 1-1/2" screw is so it is easier to insert from underneath.   IF the
       outside of the rivet does not flatten properly (the inside will be cup-shaped), reverse the screw for the final
       moderate tightening.   Do all the rivets, there are eight of them.   If installing a Parabellum windscreen, be
       sure the black plastic cover piece from Parabellum does NOT interfere with the top of the gauges, if it does,
       grind it a bit.

10.  You won't find a lot of need for this one, but when you need it, & it is a tool to have at home, you will
       cuss without it.  This is a tool called an impact driver.  The brand I have is named IMPAKDRIVER,
       made by the H.K. Porter company.  This neat gadget is hit with a metal hammer, while you hold
       the selectable rotational direction (CW or CCW) pressure on the tool. 
The hammer blow
       pushes/holds strongly the tool tip (lots of tips available) into the screw or whatever, and the internal
       hidden CAM of the tool causes rotation.  This tool was a MUST with old Japanese bikes, using it with
       CCW force for LOOSENING.  With a few assorted bits you will find it valuable when needed.   Use
       this one VERY CAUTIOUSLY on such as carburetor top screws (don't break the carburetor!
       support the area!).  Good for nuts, SOMETIMES; not just screws.   I get this tool out BEFORE
       I round out a screw head.

11.  T-handled Allen wrenches, with fairly long Allen shanks.  Get a small assortment of these, you won't
       need any larger than 6 mm.  Do NOT get the cheap plastic handled ones, get the METAL handled
       types.  Most plastic handled ones are not good and will eventually slip. BUY QUALITY.  You will have
       these for a lifetime and WILL find these valuable.  It is up to you if the tips are the ball type Allen or
       regular Allen. The ball type seem more versatile but I am not pleased with some for strength and
       toughness.  I DO use the ball type for the screws at the oil filter cover, when they are not hexhead.
       T-handled tools are usually for your home shop.  SOME folks carry one of these, and a shortened L
       allen wrench, on long tours, needed when changing the oil filter.  You can drill the RT fairing for one
       of those screws if it is hard to get to.  T-handled tools are also made in socket ends, turning them
       into tubular wrenches.  Be sure the inside depth is good enough.

12.  Jumper wires.  Keep these two items in your bike tool tray.  You need two types. 
       The first type is used to bypass the voltage regulator.  It can be 4 or 5 inches of insulated stranded wire,
       18 ga is OK, nothing critical here.  At each end put a MALE standard 1/4" spade connector. 

       The second jumper wire is a test lead jumper.  Make this with a standard medium size alligator clip at each
       end (rubber boot insulator covered).  Maybe 3 feet to 6 feet long.

13.  HINT:  when trying to clean off old gasket from aluminum parts, spray WD40 on the old gasket
       remnants, or a gasket remover solvent (autoparts stores), and use a plastic scraper, not
       metal, unless you are most careful.   Plastic razor blades are available from many sources,
       including your local autoparts store.  Remember, it is easy to nick an aluminum surface with
       a metal razor blade or metal scraper....and those nicks can often be places for oil leaks.

 

14.  You can substitute certain sizes of tools, SOMETIMES.  Here are ones to try.  Especially since
       many tools are not perfect in their size.  I've even seen folks purposely modify extra wrenches
       they had....and grind the number off the wrench, and etch the new size onto the wrench.

         8 mm, which is .315", try 5/16" which is .3125"
       11 mm, which is .433", try 7/16" which is .4375"
       13 mm, which is .512", try 1/2" which is 0.500"
       14 mm, which is .551", try 9/16" which is .5625"
       16 mm, which is .630", try 5/8" which is .625"
       17 mm, which is .669", try 11/16" which is .6875"
       19 mm, which is .748", try 3/4 inch which is .750" 
       27 mm, which is 1.06", try 1-1/16" which is 1.0625"
       30 mm, which is 1.81", try 1-3/16" which is 1.875"

15.  A credit card & a phone card; maybe a cell phone. Any old cell-phone, whether you have a cell-phone
       paid service OR NOT, can be used to dial 911 for emergencies.  Emergencies are not that you need
       gasoline or have a flat tire; although these have been used for that purpose.   Used cell phones for
       such uses are often available free.

16.  Spark plug shorting tools.  Information AND PHOTO on those, utilized when synchronizing
        carburetors, will be found here: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/synchcarbs.htm  
       Some keep them in the tool tray on the bike.   Here is a source if you don't want to make
        a shorting tool set:     http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/

17.  You may have reason to remove & replace a pin contact in one of BMW's connectors.  BMW has a
       tool for this:  88-88-6-611-132.   -131 and -133 are also pin removal tools.  These tools are $$.
       If you are careful, you can use something like a very thin Jeweler's screwdriver or modified thin
       finishing nail to, from the wire end, release the wee tab that sticks out & locks the pins into position to
       a corresponding notch in the inner body of the connector. The -132 tool, the only one I have specs
       for, has a 3.75 mm plunger diameter and a 3.9 mm ID barrel...that is 3.9 mm x 4.4 mm OD.  I do not
       own this tool.  I use a thin jewelers screwdriver or a shaved nail. 

18.  Making a CHEAP and useful hydraulic bottle jack modification:  
       http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/hydraulicjack.htm

19.  Go to one or more local heating contractors, until you find a cooperative one ("sure, you can have an
       old squirrel cage motor, for free").   Heating/cooling contractors are always removing old home
       heaters & installing new heaters.  MOST of these old heaters contain a perfectly good motor, that
       has its shaft coming out both ends, and the shafts have mounted to them squirrel-cage type rotary
       blade fans.   There is a surrounding metal shrouding that you also want...it is all one assembly, and
       mostly that assembly is inside the old heater sheet metal case, which you will have to remove.   Most
       of these motors are substantial capacitor-start types, with plug tap selection for speeds.   Adapt a
       power cord.  Make up some sort of simple wood piece to keep your new ENGINE COOLING FAN
       from rolling about on your garage floor (especially at start-up) & maybe to aim the fan air output
       slightly upward.  You now have a powerful adjustable output high volume fan.   Put some chicken
       wire over the intake ends of the fan, held by sheet metal screws, to prevent things in your shop, like
       rags, or your dog/cat, from flying into the fans.   The lowest speed setting is usually the correct one. 
       This type of fan is VERY useful during synchronizing carburetors (after a 10 mile warmup), and for
       cooling your bike off rapidly for other work.


20. Cylinder stud threads repairs and ring compressors, and a lot
      more.....etc...:
   
 Ed Korn previously did business as Cycle Works, in Oregon (the town name is Oregon in the State of
      Wisconsin). He did machine work, designed & made LOTS of tools (& some parts) for everything from
      the Isetta cars through the /2 era & for all Airheads.  Some were VERY cleverly designed, & he had
      instructions, videos, ... all sorts of stuff.   Doing a run-through of the website was informative to many
      folks.  Ed sold the business to Dan Neiner, who runs it as Cycle Works LLC, located at 5805 Haskins
      Street, Shawnee, KS, 66216   (913) 871-6740.  Dan@cycleworks.net ((NOT .com!!)). The url is:
      http://cycleworks.net/   ((NOT .com!!))      Dan Neiner will sell.....or loan-out.... his version of the
      cylinder stud hole thread repair TOOL & Helicoil items for $45.   I suggest you review what is on that
      website. There are a LOT OF TOOLS FOR AIRHEADS, and other BMW bikes.
     
 
    See other areas of my website about Ed.  Also see #22 below.

      High Precision Devices (HPD) of Boulder, Colorado, has its own version of the thread repair tool.
        Very nice it is too, and uses proprietary inserts.  http://www.hpd-online.com/stud-tool.php       
           (303) 447-2558   Costly.
     
     Jeff Trapp  jefftrapp@charter.net     http://www.northwoodsairheads.com:80/
                          http://www.northwoodsairheads.com
     has a number of interesting tools for Airheads.  Take a look at that website. There is further information in my
     REFERENCES article on Jeff....he also does repairs, inspections, instruction on repairs. Jeff has his
     own tools, some look very close to the ones that Ed Korn developed. 
     Note:  Jeff will sell repair tooling, but he also has available a complete "loaner" kit...everything, jigs,
     BMW longer helicoil, drill, tap,  etc.....for repairing bad cylinder stud hole threads. 
      http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Cyl-Stud-Jig.php 


         
    NOTE:   ALL these particular thread repair tools (Ed Korn's AND Jeff's) were probably originally
                 inspired by the one's made by John Chay.  The background of the cylinder stud thread repair
                 tools goes back to around the year 2000.  Oak (Orlando Okleshen, THE airhead GURU in the
                 USA) and Oak's precision-machinist friend, John, made a very precise tooling/jig for this job.   
                 This tooling became the basis for the ones made by EdKorn, and Jeff Trapp.

                 I had my own crude version in the seventies, made from a bad cylinder & hardened drill guides. The
                 stock cylinder base holes are not precisely-enough located, IMO, & it really is almost better to
                 make a base from scratch.  I have made tooling to repair bad threads at the cases, where the
                 4 cylinder studs fasten.  You can make your own if you have the machinery.  If you wish to use
                 an old existing cylinder, use a lathe to cut off the major portion of the cylinder, & some of the
                 spigot; then get some long commercial hardened drill guides ($$), drill & ream the base holes,
                 which might be required to be slightly off-centered to be perfect, as required. NOTE that the
                 existing cylinder base holes are not perfect, and while you probably can get away with just
                 center-drilling; far better is to index & measure the dimensions, drill & ream them to fit the
                 purchased hardened $$ guides.  Do your machining for these holes precisely, and at exactly
                 exactly 90 degrees. You really need to do all this very precisely on such as a Mill.  Stud
                 centers are 93 mm x 72 mm, & I suggest you leave some of the spigot, note that there are
                 early sizes of 97 mm, and all later ones are 99 mm. Unless you have the machinery to make
                 things in a precise manner, and wish to spend the money on the hardened guides, you are best
                 advised to see the above sources, to purchase or rent.               

                WARNING!   There have been instances of badly damaged motors from failure to remove
                                     all chips from drilling and tapping operations from the engine block, ...and
                                     from the oil pan!  Remove pan and clean out; clean the threaded holes
                                     from inside not just outside.



21.  Tool for the conrod bolts:   This is a 10 mm triple-fluted tool, which looks something like a Torx. 
       One description of this tool, the one NAPA uses, is "10 mm, 12 point, fluted wrench".  
       You will use this tool with a 13 mm or 1/2" socket.  The NAPA part number for the tool is #2305.
       The tool is also available from Cycleworks, see above.

22.  PULLERS:  On later wheels to 1984, outer races are removed mechanically & hubs are NOT heated
       for this, although modest heat is not injurious.  An exception is the 1978 REAR DRUM BRAKE
       SNOWFLAKE WHEEL.  Earlier wheels MUST be heated. Contact cycleworks, see #20 above, for a
       clever tool for removing wheel bearing outer races (also works for swing arm bearing outer races);
       
or, have a mechanic with the correct puller; even a dealership; do it for you.   For those with larger
       wallets, get the Kukko puller, which works well in such blind holes, where the inner edge of the outer
       race is not easily grippable...usually due to it having the same diameter as the surrounding supporting
       metal.  The Kukko needed is #21/5, used with the #22/2 'bridge'.  With a 21/6 puller, same
       bridge, you can do the steering head bearings.    NOTE that some axles, such as your front
       axle, may be very useful!

       NOTE REGARDING PULLERS:   You may have occasion to remove a seal; or a bearing, etc.  
       The Kukko tools, above, are nice, but if your wallet is small, you might be interested in
       cheaper items.   Harbor Freight also has an inexpensive equivalent for the above BLIND HOLE
       puller.   I do not know if they sell kits with attachments that are large enough.. adapters?.....
       to fit such as the outer races in the wheels.

       
For SEALS, such as for the crankshaft seal, transmission input shaft seal, & many others, you
       may be able to use a small punched hole in the metal seal, & screw-in a drywall or sheet metal
       type screw, & pry on it.  Often some HEAT helps.   You might want to purchase a cheap seal puller,
       like the Lisle 58430, check the Internet for that cheap tool.   Harbor Freight does have an
       inexpensive seal puller, like the Lisle.  Here is a photo of that SEAL puller:

23.  Various types of rubber tipped tools are available for greasing the swing arm, via greasing into the
       Allen wrench hex recess of the adjustor pin.   See chainsaw dealers for a chain saw greasing
       tool. Napa sells a rubber tipped air blow gun nozzle #90-583.  Napa also has a replacement tip
       715-1201 which is for the 715-1217.  They carry a couple other types of tip tools, one of which can
       use the 715-1217.  These are actually greasing tool items.

24.  There is a factory tool to help line up the clutch disc.  You don't have to have one, as your eyeball
       is good enough. CycleWorks probably has one available.   You can also get them from a few other
       sources.   www.wirewerkes.com has several versions.

        If you want to make this type of tool, here is MY version:  

       The tool, overall, is roughly 133 mm long. Starting at the taper tip:   The non-tapered portion of the
       tip is 8.2 mm diameter and 5 mm long. The taper is a simple rounding, or, just do a 90 tip, not
       sharp though.  So, with taper, the tip is a tad longer than 5mm...maybe 8 or 10 or whatever   Back
       of the tip is the second section:   29 mm long by 20.7 mm in diameter. The 'handle' portion is 95 mm
       long and 22 mm in diameter.   


Hyperlink to a drawing/sketch of this tool, for your machinist (or?):
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/CLUTCH TOOL.pdf

Here is a photo of some of the factory clutch/flywheel release/removal tools, AND, of that clutch disc
alignment tool.  Clutch release tools are not needed for the 1981+ type clutches.

 See also 8A and 8B, above

 

25.  Homemade universal shock absorber tool.
       Simple adapters to fit the coils are not shown here.

        You do NOT have to have this tool.  YOU CAN make a quite adequate one from TWO
        round "Floor Flanges" which you can get from any plumbing or hardware store.  With two
        pieces of all-thread; some nuts and washers, that is all you need.  For some shocks, you
        bore/drill out the center hole in the floor flanges some.  You do NOT need the mounting eye
        holder and the plate, marked in red in the below photo, which is in MY slightly more fancy
        tool.  You will save a lot of effort by just buying the floor flanges.  I happened to have metal,
        and machinery to make what is below, you do NOT NEED TO!  If you want the cat's meow
        tool, get an Ohlins shock absorber tool. 
In the below photo of a quickly-made tool I made,
        the top plate is flat, not counter-bored below.  I did not have a lathe nor mill available to me at
        the time.  By making the underside of the plate have a milled area that is of approximately the
        diameter of the spring diameter, yet that lathe made or milled area is on the underside ONLY,
        then the top plate will not 'walk' from the spring moving sideways, which is a Pain In The Ass
        using my tool without it.   Make the top plate of rather thick material, aluminum is OK,
        half-inch or more is a good thickness, and add the underside counterbore area....you
        will be GLAD you did.  If making another top plate today, I'd use my lathe, probably make it
        3/4" thick aluminum, and with a goodly deep counterbore area.


26.  27 mm or 1-1/16" socket 1/2" square drive.  Modified.  Home tool.  This is for the swing arm nuts
       and you MUST modify the socket OD, and square the end (eliminates the internal taper). 
       12 point is FAR better...as the outer walls are much stronger after modifications. Use a lathe, or
       grind, sand, etc., the open 12 point end, so that there is NO internal taper at the very end, in other
       words, square that end off.  BE SURE that it is SQUARE to the main body.....you don't want it fitting
       poorly onto the thin nut of the swing arm. Do this step first.  THEN: Use a lathe, or grinding wheel,
       etc., and make the O.D. 1.35"  for a distance of ~11/16" from the 12 point end.  This is not critical,
       but the diameter must be small enough to allow the socket to fit into your airhead swing arm frame
      cavity...past the TWO diameters in there (on most).  

      This is a FAR better tool than trying to use the 27 mm tubular end of the dogbone wrench!!!
      A 1-1/16th inch socket will also fit properly, if modified in the same way as in the photo below.
      NOTE:  You do not have to use a 1/2" square drive, you CAN use a 3/8" square drive, if that is what
      your sockets and wrench is already.  Cycle works has this and MANY other tools.


27. 

28.  I am sometimes asked about how to deal with the /7 type fork lowers, with the 13 mm nut with the
       Allen wrench hex in the middle.  If you try to loosen the nut, and then the allen rotates...blah blah.  
       I have two solutions.  One is to modify a deep socket for a slot along the side.
      The other is to purchase an offset socket wrench.  McMaster-Carr has one, item 7247A52.

29.  Type of broken screw/bolt extractor that I use.  Don't know the name of this type, but it does not
       break as easy as a real EZ-OUT brand (longer removing tool) does.  SNAP-ON has SIMILAR
       extractors.   Ask me about proper usage of these types of tools; when to use a Dremel, or when
       to use an Electric Discharge Machining (EDM).  I have used EZ-OUTS, & many others, successfully. 
       You can too, if you are LUCKY and CAREFUL.  OVER torqueing these causes headaches.

30.   11-42-1-335-394   special 23 mm bolt for filling the thermostat/cooler during oil changes
         when you ARE changing the oil filter.   Using this tool will prevent the rare damage to a
         cooler radiator from high impulse pressures at engine startup when the oil is very cold....this
         is a really rare occurrence, and probably occurs more when someone blips the throttle
         excessively (higher than 1500 rpm??) during quite cold startup.
       
         ****Do NOT use if longer than 23 mm!!!  MUST have a goodly radius nose!

        In the below photo, the short PROPER bolt, marked 23 mm in the photo, actually measured, from
        under the head to the tip, 0.918".   The longer, WRONG bolt, measured 1.184" from under the head
        to the tip.   THE LONGER ONES WERE ALSO MADE BY BMW AND ARE NOT TO BE USED!

        Both bolts are shown with the noses rounded (radius'd), and this is necessary.  THE NOSE MUST
        NOT
BE SHARP edged nor pointy sharp, not even close to that!  I like the nose MORE ROUNDED
        than as shown below; and I polish mine.  

     


31.  Another source for tools:   http://www.culayer.com/Joes_tools.htm
       Limited number of items, but includes a seat hinge fix; some specialty wrenches and sockets, etc.
        ....I do SUGGEST you look; and his prices are quite reasonable.

32.  When adjusting the valves on pre-1985 models, it can be helpful, when adjusting rocker end play, to
       have a couple of very simple washer tools made up.  A photo of these, and how to use them, is in
       the http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/setvalves.htm article. 

33.  Tools for emergency shifting of the 5 speed transmission when the pawl spring breaks: 
        http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/emergency-shifting-tool.htm
       This is a tool I MIGHT recommend for riders that are world adventure travelers.

34.   A tool rarely needed, is a mandrel for installing pushrod tubes.  Seibenrock makes a pushrod tube
        mandrel...I have NOT inspected one of these.  A front axle may work for you.

35.   Degree wheels and piston stops:   You may never have a need for these.  If you do, you will
        find description and photos, here:   
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/F,OT,S,Z.htm


NOTE:  Very special tools are used for certain jobs.  Generally speaking, if there is an article on my
website needing a very specific tool, the tool is in that article.   Sometimes you can borrow a tool
that you need perhaps once or twice in a lifetime.  Rental of the tools/jigs to fix cylinder stud stripped
holes are listed well above in this article.  There are very special tools required to do certain jobs,
such as shimming transmissions and rear drives, and maybe a dozen total specialty jobs in all that
require special tools.

Revisions:
updated all to 03/01/2006, minor clarifications...and add #22 entirely.
04/22/2006:  add #23.
04/23/2006:  add emphasis note on screwdrivers for the Bing tops
04/24/2006:  modify that note
08/15/2006:  Edit #20
09/24/2006:  minor clarifications
04/17/2007:  add #24
05/08/2007:  Add photo to #24 and add #25 (3 photos)
05/11/2007:  Add hyperlink in #8, clarify some minor details here and there.
08/14/2007:  Joe's Tools hyperlink/url obtained, item 20
01/19/2008:   Update 20, 22
10/08/2008:   edit article for clarity, add #26, etc.  NO errors in the article, just clarifications needed.
12/30/2008:   Add information about Jeff Trapp
04/19/2009:   Add 27
05/01/2009:   Add pdf drawing to item 24
05/21/2009:  Clarify number and use for the 41 x 27 mm dogbone
03/09/2010:  add information on Jeff Trapp's loaning of cylinder stud threads fix kit.
03/12/2010:  add information on Dan Neiner's offer to loan the cylinder stud tool
03/13/2010:  Update item 20 in depth; move one item to new #29
04/25/2010:  Add photos of Posi-Drive screwdriver tip and screw
07/03/2010:  41 mm dogbone wrench part #.  Add 36 mm socket photo.  Clarify details on socket and
                       dogbone wrenches.
02/27/2011:   fix HPD url
03/17/2011:  add note to #28, and some minor updates elsewhere's.
09/03/2011:  add photo of the impact driver, which was not hyperlinked originally either
03/28/2012:  add info to #24
04/26/2012:  Remove photo of dogbone tool, spoke tool, Schrader valve tool, rear drive ring tool.
                       Re-arrange numerous items, add individual photos on some of these items; add more
                       commentary on what to get and NOT what to get.
04/28/2012:  Finish cleaning up article
07/10/2012:  Add 32
07/15/2012:  Add 33
08/08/2012:  Add photos of exhaust finned nut tools and some commentary and links; re-arrange some
                       items, and generally do a lot of cleanup.
08/24/2012:  re-arrange top part of article, and add a few things
10/02/2012:  Add photos and text regarding the BMW feeler gauge tool; add QR code, add language
                       button, update Google code
11/15/2012:  Clean up article.  Minor improvements; numerous clarity improvements; change article
                       width so better works with smaller screens.   Repair unclosed html tags, etc.
01/16/2013:   Expand 25
03/08/2013:   Add Esoteric section
11/16 & 22, 2013:   All for item 22:  Add more on pullers; including seal puller photo, clean up wording.
11/29/2013:  add notes on making the shock spring compressor better.
Sometime in 2013:  remove language button, as the javascript was causing problems with some browsers.
04/01/2014:  Improve clarity in a few areas.
05/04/2014:  Add #34, which was noted in my head assembly article but erroneously not put in the tools
                       article.
05/21/2014:   Add#35
07/08/2014:  Add warning note on removing chips, etc., to item #20.
08/11/2014:  Add Cen-Tech photo.
09/30/2014:  Clean up article
10/25/2014:  add note to #4, in Part II.
02/12/2015:  Modify photo of rotor tools to include NOT APPROVED.  Edit associated text.
02/17/2015:  #13 had been blank.
02/28/2015:  Clarify use of torque wrench adaptors.
06/19/2015:  Add note for tire repair article
06/22/2015:  Add Cycleworks.net torque wrench adaptor info and photo
08/10/2015:  Fix hyperlinks for cylinder stud repairs items
08/16/2015:  MINOR clarifications and a final cleanup on 09/15/2015
10/04/2015:  Add hyperlink for spark plug shorting tool source: http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/
11/01/2015:  Add #9, which had been previously deleted/moved.
12/24/2015:  Meta codes; clean up entire article, clarify some details, improve for smaller screens.
01/06/2016:  Meta-codes updated. Fonts increased.  Left side justification mode intensified, horizontal
                      lines characteristics changed....and, some clarifications and updating.
 

Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer

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