values for various fasteners on the various models of BMW Airhead Motorcycles
© Copyright, 2013, R. Fleischer
Be sure to go back and read part 71A, if you have not previously, before using this part 71B.
To convert torque wrench settings/values between systems of measurement:
Nm x 0.7376 = foot-pounds
foot-pounds x 1.356 = Nm
Mkp x 7.23 = foot-pounds
inch-ounces = 141.6 x Nm
Mkp x 9.81 = Nm
Foot-pounds x 192 = inch-ounces
ONE inch-pound is the same as 1.1525 CmKg, or 0.1129 Nm
ONE Ncm is 0.0885 inch-pound.
When threads are clean and dry, and then MOST types of Loctite is added to them, Loctite causes approximately a 15% increase in actual torque (Loctite acts as a very mild lubricant). Because of the safety factor of parts strengths and typical usages, this effect of Loctite is usually ignored, as far as torque wrench settings are concerned.
ANTISEIZE COMPOUND: The above is NOT SO when using antiseize compound...you should, and in many cases (spark plug threads) MUST allow for the change (30% approximately with antiseize compound).
Nuts and bolts grading systems and standard torque values:
Fittings from Germany are specified by a different grading system from that used in the U.S. Metric bolts are marked on the heads by a number, that corresponds to the over-all strength rating. Tables listing certain specifications such as plating of steel bolts and those then screwed into, say, aluminum, are not a normal item as shown. Ratings (grades) used in this DIN system FOR BOLTS and SCREWS are, in increasing order of strength: 5.6; 6.8; 6.9; 8.8; 10.9; and 12.9. The 8.8 is a fairly strong metal, and is quite common on BMW's. Whilst 8.8 is commonly available in hardware stores, many such stores carry INFERIOR bolts, often unmarked...and in SOME instances you can NOT depend on the markings! BMW uses some bolts rated even stronger than 8.8 in SOME SPECIAL INSTANCES....shock absorber mounts, brakes, rods, crankshaft-to-flywheel...etc. I suggest using BMW-supplied parts! Don't even think once about using non-BMW fasteners for the driveshaft U-joint, flywheel, rods....
There are standardized tables for recommended tightening torque for fasteners, these common tables have the size of the fastener (M6, M8, M12, etc.) and the optimum tightening torque for the grade. Once in awhile those tables need to be consulted. In the DIN system, bolts are assumed to be phosphate treated, no after-treatment, not galvanized. There is, or may be, information on oiled versus not oiled. Separate tables for cadmium plating are available (approx. 30% less is the recommended torque for cadmium plating). Cadmium plated parts are hardly available anymore in Europe. Tables are different for NUTS; and nuts are rated as 8, 10, and 12 in strength....and the same sort of messiness occurs with plating, lubrication, etc. It can get complicated, with a nut and bolt of different ratings. As a general rule, there are some sort of standards for all the various types of headed screws, bolts, etc. All this, and the tables, can often be ignored....unless YOU are doing something special, or if there is no specification by BMW for your specific fastener. I CAN supply the information, it is way too extensive to be listed in this article. So, in tightening fasteners on your BMW, use the information below, and if something is not listed, ask on the Airheads or other appropriate LIST.
Cadmium plating and BMW
changing, without notice, heads of bolts:
BMW is shipping parts that are NO LONGER cadmium plated due to European environmental rules. These unplated parts tend to RUST! These parts are completely safe at the original specified torque as used with cadmium plated parts. Try to obtain old original parts.
In some circumstances BMW is shipping bolts with 1 wrench size smaller heads, under the SAME part number. Often a dealership will have BOTH sizes of bolt heads in the same box on their shelves. I offer this caution, because, as an example, you airheads might not have 18 and 16 mm wrenches in your tool kit!...the 18 being substituted for 19mm, the 16 for 17 mm. K bikes don't generally have this problem...most started with the even numbered sizes. Note that later model BMW motorcycles are using the smaller heads, generally.
BMW literature errors...often carried forward into Clymers and Haynes books:
BMW of North America published a Service Bulletin, Volume II, NO. 23, Dated 3/82. I will quote SOME from that bulletin:
"May we advise you that from now on, any published BMW conversions found in brackets immediately behind the millimeter figures in all service literature (riders manuals, shop manuals, etc.) should not be used. Recent experience has shown that use of these figures has caused some major, expense errors by either a dealer service department, a customer, or an independent machine shop. Please inform all customers upon purchase of a shop manual, and also those customers that you are aware of that have one in their possession." This was signed by Herb Neas, National Service Manager.
NOTE, from me, Snowbum: There are errors above
(millimeter should be metric Nm for instance). Let me spell this
When BMW has a published torque figure, it is 'usually' OK as shown in Nm, but do NOT use BMW's foot-pounds figures. I strongly suggest that you calculate them yourself (Nm x 0.74 is foot-pounds). Clymers, Haynes, etc., have used BMW's figures for Nm and foot-pounds, and thus MAY have continued to carry forward the errors!....so be cautious. I personally know of errors in even the Factory Workshop
Manuals.....see article on this website: Torquespecs&problems.htm.
Cylinder heads: Evenly cross-torque, staging at ~10, ~18, and then CAREFULLY to a final value of 25 or absolute maximum of 26 foot-pounds. I use a final value target of 25 foot-pounds for ALL models...even though I know PRE-Nikasil models are specified at 29-31 foot-pounds in old literature. I do NOT consider it safe to torque higher than a TRUE 26 foot-pounds on ANY model, and THAT is with a known GOOD torque wrench! The 4 rocker arm nut threads are to be oily, and if they squeak, remove nut, oil immediately, and immediately retighten. After the first torqueing after the heads have been off, for each later re-torqueing, back off the 2 head nuts only a very small amount, one at a time, and then retorque. Do same for the 4 rocker nuts, but back off about 1/4th turn, one at a time unless doing end play work (then do both of ONE rocker at one time). The idea is that you will not have more than one or two of the nuts loose, in comparison to the others, for very long. Time is involved, as I think the metal will move some
over time, so don't leave things unbalanced and loose.
Spark plugs: 16-18 foot-pounds for clean and dry threads for the 3/4 inch reach stock top plugs. SOME old manuals will show values as high as 21.7... DO NOT use such high values!! When using (or previously used) anti-seize compound, reduce the 16-18 foot-pound figures; I use about
14 foot-pounds. For those with dual-plug conversions, you might have short 1/2 or short/long 3/4 reach plugs at the bottom, depending on if a washer or welding was done and what size plug was selected. For the bottom 3/4" reach 14 mm plugs (same as top plugs, used when the bottoms have welded spacers or similar), then use the same values as above for the top plugs. For bottom 1/2" reach 14 mm plugs, specification is about 12-14 foot-pounds on clean and dry threads....be very cautious, use about 10-12 foot-pounds if anti-seize is used; you may have to increase this SLIGHTLY to get a good contact/crush on the crush washer. If you have 12 mm 1/2" reach bottom plugs, use a bit less with antiseize compound.
Anti-seize compound works into metal, so be cautious if you install spark plugs without such compound if the compound was used previously. Doing it by feel on a fresh crush washer works OK, provided you are not ham-fisted.
M6 nut on the end of the automatic advance unit on models up through 1978: 4 to 4.5 foot-pounds. Be careful! DO NOT depend on the accuracy of a 75 or 100 foot pound clicker wrench at such a low setting (even if it can be set that low). Do it by hand, or do it with an INCH POUND wrench. Going over 48 INCH-pounds is really not necessary. It is not terribly UNusual to find that someone has overtorqued this nut yet not broken the threaded portion off the camshaft...yet! Be very cautious. I always torque this nut by hand, with a very small 4 (max 6) inch wrench. If you do not have a good feel for torque, especially torque that breaks things, use a torque wrench. Remember: 4 foot pounds multiplied by 12 means 48 INCH-pounds. If you have an INCH-OUNCE wrench, guess how you calculate inch-ounces? yes, the conversion factor is near the top of this page.
Rocker arm adjustment lock nut: 13-16 foot-pounds (some say 12, and I agree)
Valve cover center acorn nut: 14 foot-pounds (I am cautious, and do it by feel)
Outer cover, front of engine: about 5.5 foot-pounds
Engine to frame: 55 foot-pounds is reasonable for all models, although there are differences on the books.
Crankshaft rod bolts: except as below, ALWAYS new ones, 36 foot-pounds.
R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R: 15 foot-pounds, then 40 degrees more.
Flywheel bolts: ALWAYS new ones are recommended, but NEVER reuse the early smaller /5 and early /6 type bolts, which were 10 mm diameter. These are clean and dry torques, except as noted:
/5 (smaller diameter, 10 mm bolts): 44 foot-pounds
1974: two specifications, 45 for R60 and R75, then 53 on R90 series, but I simply use 53+
1975 and later, earlier specifications, 11 mm bolts: 76 foot-pounds....but, for just the 1981 and later,
BMW latest specification change per S.I. 11-049-91 (2495): 90 foot-pounds, and oiled
threads!....(I won't do them quite that tight, perhaps it is OK, I honestly get nervous with
flywheel bolts approaching 90, let alone oiled.
Here is what is in other places on this website:
BMW Service Information bulletin (we call them SI's), November 1991, #11-049-91, sub number
2495, and this can also be seen on the 12/92 fiche on page 3, G23:: Basically, it stated that
while the flywheel bolts were previously at ~75 foot-pounds (100 Nm), they were now to be at
90 foot-pounds (125 Nm), cleaned threads, and the threads were to be OILED! BMW
specifically said that the bolt limits would NOT reach their limit of elasticity at that torque, and
could be REUSED! I will NOT tighten them that tight. Makes me very nervous! However,
some Pro's do, and I have heard of no problems reported. It is YOUR CHOICE. NOTE also
that this is in regards to the 11 mm bolts, and applies to 1981+ models....certainly not the
smaller /5 and early /6 10 mm bolts; which need replacement upon each use, which
unstretched 11 mm do not, and those 10 mm bolts in the /5 and early /6, are absolutely not to
be torqued to such high values. There have been a lot of different specifications on flywheel
bolts over the years.
There were two lengths of 10 mm bolts used. I
use, clean and dry, torques of 42-45
foot-pounds on the 1973 and earlier engines; and for the 1974 I use 52-55 ftlbs; and 1975 and
later up to the 1981 models, I use about 75 to 80 ftlbs. I use about 80 ftlbs, clean and dry
threads, on 1981+. Yes, that is true, I don't oil them myself...but, usually, there is, after
cleaning, a faint trace of oil film, typically un-seen.
Oil cooler hose 17 mm banjo nuts: absolute maximum 14.5 foot-pounds. I suggest 13 foot-pounds,
rechecked overnight. HINT: do not let outer hose be in contact with the fairing if you have a
fairing...vibration might loosen the banjo.
Oil pan mounting bolts: book values 6.5-8 (some books show to 8.5) foot-pounds.......I suggest less,
perhaps 5.5-6, carefully tighten in a staggered cross-pattern, starting at the center ones, and do it
very evenly. NO GOO! Put the lettered side UP. There is supposedly a heat-activated glue on these.
The old cork gaskets are NLA. I do these bolts BY HAND, not torque wrench. YOU may want a
torque wrench. MOST torque wrenches of the type that have a range of maybe 5 to 75 foot-pounds,
can NOT be used for this, as their accuracy is NOT good, nor is the FEEL for the click. If you plan to
use a torque wrench, use an INCH-pound wrench. Multiplying my 5.5-6 foot-pounds by 12, you can
see that I would be recommending 66 to 72 INCH-pounds.
Engine oil pan drain: 20-22 foot-pounds (book values have been variously from 20-25). I tend to use the
low side of spec for this pan drain bolt.
Oil filter inner cap bolt: 15-20 foot-pounds (some books may say 30, I feel that is too high).
Oil filter outer cover plate: no matter if thermostat or GS or plain: not over 7.5 foot-pounds. I always
do these by FEEL, not a torque wrench. Tighten them in stages, evenly, back and forth. NO NEED to
have them too tight!
Oil canister central pipe: Install with Loctite, tight, using a custom-made mandrel or carefully ground
very broad thick tipped screwdriver. On the cooler models, have the pipe end 3 mm proud of the
engine outside wall surface, as you leave it. Allow the Loctite a day or so to cure.
Oil pressure sending switch: no specification on early models, later models from about 1985 or so
specify 18 foot-pounds. Use 12 point deep socket, moderately tight by feel. Do NOT over-tighten.
Oil pickup bolts: 6.5 foot-pounds, Loctite BLUE
Oil PUMP cover: 88 INCH-pounds; probably 72 is enough. LOCKTITE BLUE. If you have the old
Phillips screw type cover, replace it, and DO read about THAT at FlywheelRemoval.htm
Camshaft flange bearing and front main bearing: 11-13 foot-pounds, but some models from about
1985 are 18 foot-pounds.
Chain cover: 5.2-5.9 foot-pounds (62-71 INCH-pounds)
Section 12-Engine electrics:
Spark plugs: see Section 11, above.
Centrifugal advance: old style, single M6 nut on end of camshaft, see section 11.
Starter motor bolts: 35 foot-pounds is the published specification, but this is probably excessive.
Be very cautious that the starter is solidly and squarely in place as you tighten. If installing
a different brand in place of a Bosch, be sure to read Bosch-Valeo (which covers several
other brands too).
Alternator rotor allen bolt: book value is 16.6-19.5 foot-pounds, I suggest ~14 as a maximum, and I
use less than 14 myself. The rotor-to-engine-crankshaft is a taper-fit and the mating surfaces must
be absolutely clean and free from any contamination, including oil, even fingerprints. Do NOT use
gasoline in cleaning the tapers.
Section 13/16-Carburetors and associated air and fuel inlet parts:
Cylinder head stubs: 10 foot-pounds, Loctite RED. NOTE: I do this by feel, and the torque I use is
likely much higher than 9, although I have never measured it. I heat the head, and freeze the
stub, and add Loctite RED just before I assemble them, using a strap wrench or other tool, and
Section 18-Exhaust system:
Exhaust pipe finned nuts: Prior to 1981 the specification was 101-130 foot-pounds, later it went to
145-159 foot-pounds. I have seen even higher published figures. There is NO GOOD REASON to
have these nuts so tight. I don't know how tight I put them, but I suspect it is not over 90
foot-pounds. I never do them with a torque wrench, I always do it by feel, a decent grunt, using a
proper finned wrench, and NOT too darn tight,.......and I ALWAYS use anti-seize compound. Failure
to loosen these nuts and to clean and use fresh anti-seize compound on the threads yearly (I do
it to the exhaust port rings, etc....and the rings have their splits towards the head, that is, the tapers
face each other) has been the cause for MUCH anguish. If, in loosening, they suddenly
bind-up, then do NOT go further with trying to loosen with lots more
force;...just CUT the nuts off!...don't injure threads doing so. This having to
cut them off, or otherwise ruining the port threads, will NOT happen if you
maintain them, and do not over-tighten them!!! There is an article on this
website, Exhaustnuts on these finned nuts! Use of lots of an anti-seize
compound is MANDATORY!!!
'clips'....pre-silencer (1985+): 15 foot-pounds
Section 21-23 Clutch and transmission:
Transmission drain: 14-18.5 foot pounds
Transmission fill: 20-22 foot pounds
Transmission to engine: about 15 foot-pounds, somewhat more is OK. Books will show values from
14-24 depending on the book (1981+ is 24 foot-pounds)....and some confused Nm with foot-pounds.
Transmission shifter lever: 13 foot-pounds
Transmission cover screws: 6 foot-pounds
Transmission output flange-to-U-joint: 29 foot-pounds. This requires an adapter tool of some sort.
These bolts are sturdy and strong, and a good feeling of 'good and tight' from a common 6" 12 point
box end wrench is probably OK. DO NOT use the split lockwashers that were supplied on earlier
models except in emergency if you don't have the shorter replacement bolts. This website has the
number for the proper slightly shorter bolts, which are installed on clean and dry and then Loctite
BLUE on the threads before assembly. SEE section 26, below, for expanded information.
Transmission output flange center large nut: 148-173 foot-pounds, probably OK to even 190.....in
any case, absolutely clean and dry (this is a taper fit).....and do not clean with gasoline. I use 160.
TAPER FITS must be CLEAN and DRY!!
Kickstarter models cotter nut/crank: 15 foot-pounds
4 speed transmission shift fork bolts: 17 foot-pounds
Clutch lever adjusting screw locknut: 15 foot-pounds
Clutch bolts (to flywheel, early models): 16 or 17 foot-pounds in books up to 1980. Originally the /5
had 14. From 1981 with the new style clutch, 15-16 foot-pounds.
Selector fork/cam bracket: 18 foot-pounds (from 1981, 14 foot-pounds)
Neutral switch on 5 speed transmissions: This is not specified. Use a DEEP socket to install
except where side facing terminals prevent that.
Section 26-Driveshaft and swing arm:
Driveshaft fill: 10 MAXIMUM foot-pounds
Driveshaft drain: 10-12 MAXIMUM foot-pounds
NOTE!....I almost never actually use a torque wrench on the drain and fill and inspection holes. This is particularly so on the driveshaft drain; and MOST particularly so on the later drive's oil level inspection plug at the rear of the drive....it is very easy to strip the threads, even if using a torque wrench. There is NO need for those to be overly tight. Please use any listed torque values with some common sense. NOTE that this later rear drive type inspection plug torque is listed on my website, below, in section 33.
4 Driveshaft U-joint bolts, non-Paralever models: 29 foot pounds, NO lockwashers, and use
Loctite BLUE on clean and dry threads. If you have the lock-washers, get rid of them, and use the
very slightly shorter later bolts. Early models like the /5 were specified at 18 foot-pounds,
that was the longer bolts with the split lock-washers. I feel NO bike should have those long bolts
and those lock-washers, the 18 foot-pounds is listed here as a courtesy. If one of those
old lock-washers breaks, or somehow its bolt loosens, the rest soon will, and MAY destroy the
back side of the transmission. If your BMW dealer insists that BMW has gone back to using
lock-washers, ignore that advice, and use the shorter, later, bolts!!!! Do NOT use substitute bolts!
Do NOT use hardware store bolts!
Driveshaft coupling nut (bell gear): 180 foot-pounds is the maximum and probably 150 is OK.
Swing arm allen-recess adjusters: preload to 15 foot-pounds, then back off slightly, then finish in only
the tightening direction, leaving at 7.5 (9 max) foot-pounds.
Swing arm adjuster 27 mm (or 1-1/16") lock nuts (STEEL nuts): 72-77 foot-pounds. Use a
properly squared off and proper diameter tool. See tools.htm
Preloading the pivot shafts: 15 foot-pounds, then, back off, then retighten to 7.5 foot-pounds;
locknuts to 75-80 foot-pounds
Left-hand bearing pivot stub: 110 foot-pounds
Right-hand bearing pivot shaft: 5.5 foot-pounds
Right-hand bearing pivot shaft lock nut: 77 foot-pounds
BMW specifies using locking compounds on the stubs and nuts. See my other articles for what I
think about that, and which to use.
Section 31/32-Steering, forks, bars, controls on bars:
are differences between various models ...particularly the GS, -R, that are not
shown here, or
the list would be very lengthy.
Fork drain nuts: 16.6-18.6 foot pounds. Probably one should just use 17 foot pounds for all to 1980.
Top cap nut, center tube, also called Crown Nut and Centering Nut: approximately 80-95
foot-pounds; some books say 88-96 foot-pounds.
Top of fork tubes 'nut': 80 or so foot-pounds.
R80R, R100R, GS, top sleeve/locknut: 48 foot-pounds
M8 x 1 nut at the bottom of some forks, that holds the damper: ~15-17 foot-pounds.
Top spring retainer: 80-95 foot-pounds
Lower fork yoke stanchion clamp (lower triple clamp): 25 foot-pounds.
Some variances, see your book.
Bottom caps on the lowers: specifications have varied, some say 59-73 foot-pounds; others say
87-93 foot-pounds, I do it by feel.
Damper (rod retainer nut): early bikes 17 foot-pounds; 1981 and later 25 foot-pounds
Piston plugs: 18 foot-pounds
Damper slider tube, and force brace, 1985+: 11 foot-pounds
Axle clamp bolts: about 10-12 foot-pounds
Axle nut: 25-35 maximum foot-pounds
Axle, late models, that use an allen bolt and not a nut: 25 foot-pounds
Clamp ring bolt: 8 foot-pounds
Fender brace upper: 16 footpounds
Fender brace, lower: 1.5-1.8 foot pounds
Fork brace, GS: 13 foot-pounds
Fork filler plugs: Varies with models: 6.5-10 foot-pounds
Handlebar nuts: 15 foot-pounds
Steering bearing preload adjustment:
This should be done by road test, per my instructions
elsewhere's on this site. But, there IS a specification, and it is 30 (+-2) INCH-pounds. This is the
force to continue moving the entire fork, after once started moving. It is tricky. If you INSIST on
using a torque wrench for this, ask me how to modify one of your existing tool tray tools.
Section 33-Rear Drive and rear shock absorbers:
Rear drive drain: 16 foot pounds (18 maximum)
Rear drive fill: 20 foot pounds (maximum).
Late model rear drive oil level inspection hole: CAREFULL!... 5 to 8 foot pounds MAXIMUM. Do it
by feel, be careful. If using a torque wrench, use an accurate inch-pound wrench, and I suggest
using a cautious 60 and maybe a maximum of 72 inch-pounds. Some never remove this plug.
I almost never actually use a torque wrench on the drain and fill and inspection holes. This is particularly so on the driveshaft drain; and MOST particularly so on the later drives that have the oil level inspection plug at the rear of the drive....it is very easy to strip those oil inspection plug threads, even if using a torque wrench. There is NO need for those to be overly tight.
Please use my listed torque values with some common sense.
Rear drive to driveshaft housing: 35 MAXIMUM foot-pounds is what I use on these 4 nuts. There
are differing specifications for them in the various literature. Up through 1984, but excluding the G/S
and ST, 47 Nm (35 foot-pounds). The G/S and ST in some books are shown as 65 Nm.
Generally, the books show most 1985 (some from 1986) models to use 55 Nm.
Shock absorbers: 25 foot-pounds; generally 1985+, 11 foot-pounds.
Shock units, Paralever: 26 foot-pounds
Shock units, Monolever before 1987: 34 foot-pounds; then 21 foot-pounds on later models
Input gear (pinion) large nut, Loctite blue: /5/6 75 foot-pounds. After /6, use 110-115 foot-pounds.
The threaded ring that surrounds that input gear: 75+ foot-pounds, Hylomar'd.
Left side cover plate on the rear drive: 14 foot-pounds
Torque arm, front to frame: 32 foot-pounds
Torque arm, rear to housing: 25 foot-pounds
Bevel drive pinion retaining nut, R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R: 150 foot-pounds
cover housing: 15 foot-pounds
oil filler/level plug: 17 foot-pounds
oil drain plug: 17 foot-pounds
Brake caliper plugs: 43.3-46.6 foot-pounds to 1980
Brembo calipers (and ATE that are NON-swinging): Book says 22-23 foot pounds (ST, G/S 26) for
the bolts that mount the caliper to the fork legs.
Brake caliper joining bolts, R80R, R100R: inner 22 foot-pounds, outer 7 foot-pounds
Brake lines (pipes): 6 to 7 foot-pounds (11 maximum from 1981)
Cap (ATE swinging calipers): /6 45 foot-pounds; /7 30 foot-pounds
Disc brake mounting nuts/bolts: 17 foot-pounds.
For R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R: 24 foot-pounds
Section 36-Wheels and axles (and see section 31/32, above):
Front and rear axle nuts: 32.5-34.5 foot pounds. I use ~30 ftlbs
Axle pinch bolts: front 11-12 foot pounds, rear 11-13 foot pounds; late 1984+ use 17 foot pounds
both (but I do not use that much).
**NOTE....whilst those are published including 1984, I think the 1984 should really be very late 1984 and
later, that is, models that have the ball bearings in the front axle, not the tapered bearings. I am
NOT sure about this.
Mono-lever models and Paralever, including R80ST, R80 G/S, R100GS, etc; rear wheel bolts.
Models have been made with both three and four bolts/nuts.
I suggest that one NEVER EVER oil NOR antiseize these threads...NEVER!....just clean and
dry threads...and that you use 63 foot-pounds for the R80ST, and a bit more, perhaps 75
for the G/S, and for the 85+ models, I suggest 77 foot-pounds.
Repeat: do NOT use oil, nor antiseize, on rear wheel-to-drive fasteners threads, on the Monoshock and Paralever models.
Section 46-to ? Frame, fenders, braces, saddlebag bracketry, fairings, special lighting equipment, battery bracketry, instruments pods, centerstands, etc.:
Center stand: 25-26 foot pounds (I suggest closer to 31 on 1985+ models)
Sidestand center pin, from 1981: 13 foot-pounds
Rear subframe: 11-18 foot-pounds
It is NOT commonly known that screw-type band clamps have torque values. The type of band clamps I am referring to here are NOT the type that BMW used to use at the U-joint rubber bellows (small screw, very fine threads); whether screw or clamp pliers types. What I am referring to here are the AFTERMARKET band clamps that have multiple cross-wise small slots almost all the way around, that you may be tempted to purchase for various things, and substitute for the original types. The standard torque setting for these aftermarket clamps depends on the width of the band. Frankly, there are no places on BMW motorcycles for these types of clamps, but I know some of you will use them anyway.
5/16" width band: 14 to 16 INCHpounds
1/2" width band: 25 to 35 INCHpounds
9/16" width band: 30 to 40 INCHpounds
There are special versions of these clamps used for high pressure fuel injection hose clamps.
What is posted in this article above IS believed correct, but no guarantees as to that!
You can have your torque wrench calibrated now and then, usually expensively, or simply clamp the square drive working end in a vice, have the handle horizontal, and place a weight on a string hanging from the point-of-pressure at the handle (mid-point of handle), and calculate the foot pounds. Carefully done, this is USUALLY OK.
Initial edit and release: 07/05/2004
12/16/2004: Clarify torqueing cylinder head nuts in section 11
02/26/2005: layout, url, copyright, hyperlink
07/16/2006: add note on calibrating the wrench
08/20/2006: editing for clarity
04/25/2009: clarify crankshaft bolt torques, to eliminate any chance of misunderstandings.
07/15/2009: clarify rear drive to driveshaft nut tightness; minor other typos or unimportant
10/24/2009: clean up the article
10/15/2012: Add QR code, add language button, update Google Ad-Sense code
04/23/2013: Change change cover from 5.0 foot-pounds.
© Copyright, 2013, R. Fleischer
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