Hardware (metal, rubber, etc.) etc.
BMW Airhead Motorcycles:
Pozi, Reed & Prince, Frearson, & Phillips screws,
near the end of this article.
Includes information on some items & references not found in my references page (78A): http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/references.htm
General notes on parts:
BMW has used two methods over the years of part 'coding'. This is applicable to fiche, CD's, and other literature. A list of these codes is in article 69:
Stainless Steel: Many folks have purchased stainless steel nuts, bolts, etc., which are available individually, but also in bulk form (including large pre-packaged sets for your bike). DO NOT FAIL TO USE AN ANTISEIZE COMPOUND ON THE THREADS. Failure to do so will result in eventual GALLING, a form of WELDING. You may also want to DEcrease the torque value a bit. Please take note of the fact that, in general, SS parts are NOT as strong as the steel (whether cadmium plated or otherwise treated, or not, by BMW) stock parts. Be especially cautious where original parts were graded 10.9 or higher.
This article lists, AND IN SOME INSTANCES DESCRIBES, hardware items for BMW Airhead motorcycles & LIKELY HAS ERRORS. It was not possible to physically look at every part listed here. Parts numbers & descriptions were taken from a Snabb Katalog & checked against a 1995 printed Parts List. MOST WERE CHECKED checked against my own stock of parts; a few were checked against on-line fiche. A small amount of input was from others.
BMW on-line fiche is not as fully descriptive as some other types of BMW parts literature. Most of you will use only the on-line fiche. Here is a good source of such on-line fiche: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.aspx
Be SURE you understand that what shows in such literature is either the original & still valid part number, or an updated part number (which COULD be the same part); or, in many instances, the part is a LATER part, that BMW says can substitute for the original part. There may be a transition date listed. DO NOT take the dating information to always mean the original transition date.
BMW descriptions in its literature are sometimes WRONG! In ILLUSTRATIONS, BMW may OFTEN show a piece of hardware...or other item... that is NOT the actual part. An mild example: an actual Allen bolt is shown in the illustration as a screw or hex head. Especially be aware that BMW sketches (often the same sketches are found in Clymers and Haynes manuals), can be VERY misleading on order of assembly, and misleading as to whether...or not... such a part is actually used on YOUR MODEL. This is very particularly true in one critical area, the illustrations showing all the various parts for a particular assembly of the oil filter canister area. Same for the front forks internals. DO NOT think that ALL those parts will necessarily be, or should be, in YOUR bike. Clymers & Haynes have messed this up even further!!
BMW may call some parts by names that, in translating their German to our English, do not mean the same thing; this is especially egregious with the names of bolt & screw styles, particularly head styles.
BMW has sometimes kept the same part number after making changes to the part. In most instances this is of no major concern; in many instances the updated part is better for some reason or other. Sometimes there are problems. Here is another MILD example: BMW has changed some of its nut & bolt head sizes. The same part number is being used for a nut that originally needed a 19 mm wrench, & the newer shipped parts are for 18 mm wrench, a size of wrench that is NOT standard for BMW Airhead motorcycles, but is for other BMW bikes. Unless you want to carry the non-standard wrench in your bike's tool tray, you should be aware of this. In many instances, the dealer will have BOTH sizes available in the same box, as the PART NUMBER WAS THE SAME. I do NOT know the full extent of this problem. I have seen it in 16 mm heads too.
ONE of the purposes of this article is to enable you to go to a dealer & hopefully! see the various parts, & then decide what you want.
Bolt LENGTH measurements are from under the head to the end of the threads. BMW bolts for exterior use used to be, generally, cadmium plated to prevent rust. This plating may also provide some anti-seize protection & a more consistent tightening. BMW has discontinued cadmium plating due to Euro environmental regulations. Many steel bolts & nuts may well now RUST! Some may now have zinc or other coatings.
I am NOT saying to willy-nilly coat all nuts, bolts, screws, etc., with antiseize compound. You must judge where/when; perhaps consult the Airheads LIST and/or this website. Use of anti-seize compounds generally requires the torque wrench to be set a bit lower.
Ever wonder what the number on the end of a metric bolt really means? You already know it has to do with the strength of the bolt. What does it REALLY mean? Here is your answer:
The strength is shown by this format: X.Y. Thus, 10.9 or 8.8, etc.
The X number is 1/100th of the tensile strength in newtons per square mm.
The Y number is 10 times the ratio between YIELD and TENSILE strength.
Example (and the math done for you here) for the very common 8.8 rated bolt:
The X is the first 8. That means the tensile strength of the bolt is 800 newtons/mm˛. For your information, so YOU don't need to do the math: that means 116,000 psi.
The Y is the second 8. That means the yield strength of the bolt is 640 newtons/mm˛. For your information, that means 93,000 psi.
No, not going to tell you how those numbers came about; nor, how I calculated the PSI;...YOU get to research that, if curious enough!
The waverly washers used by BMW may, in some circumstances, provide LESS holding power for the bolt/nut than NO waverly washer. Very complex to understand, has to do with the surfaces sliding in relationship to each other, which not only loosens them, but tends to UNSCREW them. .....and; it was a German company that did the testing that proved all this. There is a discussion of locking methods, at the bottom area of this article, see: Discussion of 'locking' methods for hardware
Here is an article about threads and fasteners, that is relatively easy to understand, and explains things in depth, yet simply:
Part numbers on a part MAY not be BMW ordering numbers (numbers found on electrics often are BOSCH numbers or Wehrle numbers, but sometimes BMW numbers are found there too). Numbers may be partial, that is, abbreviated, and this is common for both BMW and other makers, such as Bosch. NOTE that all these things apply to mechanical parts, not hardly just electrical parts. Numbers on assemblies... or any part... may NOT be the same as the BMW order number. The number on a part might be some non-BMW number; or, a BMW part-assembly or casting number. If you cannot get a reference to the number from one of the on-line parts listings like A & S, MaxBMW, etc., you MIGHT have that situation. Ask on the Airheads LIST if you cannot figure it out yourself....many of us are quite familiar with various part numbering's.
PLEASE point out errors found in this article to the author, E-mailing to:
In a few instances below, more than one number is shown for a part. Sometimes those are actually the exact same part, other times the parts ARE different. Sometimes I have noted the variations.
BL MU sheet nut BMW may listed them as BL MU 4, 2-4; also listed as B4, 2-4 BLMU... these are all the same thing. These are sometimes generically called Tinnerman nuts in the USA. They are a folded piece of metal, that are used with fairing parts, to provide a place for a screw to go through one side & tighten on the other side. There are many types of these used on aircraft, musician's electronics chassis, etc. Some expensive types have a hardened metal nut that floats in a cage, that works exceptionally well. Modest cost ones work fairly well on the BMW fairings....but I do not like the cheapest of the cheap. I have the part numbers in the miscl. area, well below.
BL SHR sheet metal screw. NOTE this: 6KT BL SHR hex lens head screw
DT RG gasket ring
KL Generally used for the type of C (or E) clip used at the seat holding pegs.
LIN BL SHR fillister head self tapping screw
LIN SHR fillister head screw (see note ** below)
LIN SK BL SHR countersunk head fillister self-tappping screw
LIN SK SHR countersunk fillister head screw
PA SHB disc ring
SHR screw (see ** note below) Schraube
SK BL SHR countersunk lens head screw
SK SHR countersunk head screw
STI SHR studbolt
VSL SHR plug screw
ZYL SHR fillister head screw...per book, but is allen bolt?? sometimes, and sometimes another type!! see below. ZYL-SHR is usually actually found to be an allen headed type. zylinderschraube Compare the American use of cheese-head screws.
6KT SHR hex screw -KT-SHR is really a hex head, although the SH might lead you to believe it is a allen type. HB is supposedly a hex head bolt only.
ZYL STI dowel pin
4KT MU square nut
6KT MU hex nut
BMW may use the word 'fillister', in its translations to English, differently than in common American usage. In America, a fillister-head screw is NOT an allen head screw; but BMW's usage MAY mean allen-head, that is, a recessed 6 point socket for use with an allen wrench. BMW may use socket head, correctly, for an Allen Headed screw. There is further confusion with PANHEAD & CHEESEHEAD screws.
I will try to explain a little of this confusion that you may sometimes see. Zylinderschraube may be shown in literature as ZYL SHR. A TRUE fillister head, in German, is a LINsenschraube, which you will see as a LIN identification. Could be LIN SHR. There is further confusion in that ZYl SCHR has been used in some literature. It is all a MESS! Generally speaking, a taper under the head type screw is called LIN SK SHR by BMW. Some of the confusion is due to old translations by BMW or whoever did the old SNABB Katalogs and other literature. Sometimes the confusion is that BMW has used more than one type of head on a fastener at any given place, that is, changed it over time, & the description might have a new part number, & the descriptive words were never changed, & might not have been correct in the first place. BMW MAY not show the actual type of part in BMW sketches.
I still have not seen the proper description for an Allen headed screw in BMW literature. Innensechskantschraube or inbussschraube.
BMW has sometimes substituted various types of heads; you might order one type & get another type. This has happened in production for various countries too!
yes...all this CAN be very confusing! If there is a question, you should consider asking on the Airheads List.
In general I have tried to separate out the confusion, in the parts listings below.
When using on-line "fiche" from such as Maxbmwmotorcycles, etc., do NOT use the hyphens between the numbers. Simply remove them...do NOT replace hyphens with spaces.
SOME of the part numbers may no longer be listed in fiche.
07-11-9-922-053; -054. M-6. Some books show a locking nut; other books show this number being replaced by 23-11-2-322-368.
07-11-9-922-081; -856; 07-11-9-921-076; -077; -074. M-8. Some books have the 074 and -081 as locking types; the -081 is replaced now by 07-11-9-922-825, and THAT by -856.
07-11-9-922-110; 11-11-0-001-104, replaced by 11-11-1-263-903. M-10. Some books show -110 as locking, the -110 is replaced by 07-11-9-915-558.
07-11-9-922-122. M-10 x 1.0 mm.
33-17-1-237-789. M-10, 12 point.
07-11-9-922-148; -940. M-12 x 1.5 NOTE: may be 18 or 19 wrench size.
07-11-9-921-631; -633; 07-11-9-901-309. M-14 x 1.5
... similar to Nylocks; that is, they have plastic inserts. BMW also has used other types of security nuts, some are here. Sometimes BMW will identify a nut as a security type....maybe it is, maybe it is not! Do NOT depend on the numbers here to be security nuts, without LOOKING at one.
07-12-9-922-404; -452. M-4.
07-12-9-922-411; -410; 07-11-9-922-035; 12-31-2-322-422; 07-11-9-921-038. M-5.
07-12-9-922-416; -417; -058; -800; -807 ; -704. M-6.
07-11(and 12)-9-922-053. M-6. Some books show this as a locking nut; other books show this number being replaced by 23-11-2-322-368.
07-12-9-922-428; -427; -713; 07-12-9-964-675; -058; -716; -087; -096; 18-11-4-090-251. 6KT MU M-8. **NOTE that 07-12-9-922-058 is listed above for M-8 AND M-6...ONE is in error!
07-12-9-922-435; -434. M-10. self locking.
07-11-9-921-615; 07-11-9-900-079. M-10 x 1.
07-11-9-922-148; -940; 07-11-9-921-627. M12 x 1.5.
07-11-9-921-069; 07-11-9-901-307. M 16 x 1.5.
Cap nuts (sometimes called closed dome nuts):
46-61-1-236-388; 07-11-9-924-403 M6
11-12-0-023-160; 11-12-1-744-330 for center of valve cover
Lock & wave (spring) washers: BMW has interchanged these at times
per #, & I believe that sometimes BMW is not accurate on what type is
which, as far as waverly, plain, locking.
07-11-9-932-013 B 3
07-11-9-932-030; -033 B-4 waverly. 'dented' washer is 07-11-9-936-041; -042
07-11-9-936-041 J 4.3 STAR washer (note conflict with above line!)
07-11-9-932-041; -043 A-5 -041 replaced by -098; -043 by -047
07-11-9-932-079; 07-11-9-933-095 A-8
07-11-9-932-046 B-5 lock (spring washer, 5 x 11)
07-11-9-932-062; -061; -070; -071; -072; #6 or B-6
07-11-9-932-073 WAVERLY B6
07-11-9-933-082 M-6 lock may be error, may be flat washer
07-11-9-932-094;-093; -077 B-8 spring/waverly. Book is unclear. It appears that -094 is replaced by 07-11-9-932-079 which was replaced by 07-11-9-933-095, but -933-079. I suspect a digit error on the -933- term. 07-11-9-933-095; -079 B-8 or M-8 lock (may be waverly).
07-11-9-932-112 B-10 spring; may be A; large O.D.; for medium diameter A-10 use -103 and -111; for large O.D. A10 use -122. See also 07-11-1- 242-296.
07-11-9-933-110 B-10 lock.
07-11-9-936-042 J type 4.3 star washer.
21-21-1-242-377 A 7.4 star washer (BMW calls it a fan washer); clutch washers.
07-11-9-936-191 A 8.2 star washer.
07-11-9-930-840 B8 SPLIT lockwasher. This is the washer that was used at the driveshaft U-joint before BMW wised up & eliminated it in favor of a slightly shorter bolt.
34-11-1-240-570 flat size 8 washer
07-11-9-936-405; 07-11-9-931-622; 07-11-9-931-015 3.2
07-11-9-931-033; -030; 07-11-9-936-415; -416 A 5.3
07-11-9-931-065; -660; 07-11-9-932-081; 07-11-9-936-432 A 8.4 or plain 8.4
07-11-9-931-826; -684 for M8 bolts ; 8.4
07-11-9-931-043; -018; -650; -696; 34-21-4-044-133; 07-11-9-936-426; -408; -425 6.4 for M6 bolts
07-11-9-931-668; -664; -649; -077; -698; 36-31-1-451-479 10.5 A 10.5
36-31-3-004-378 Thick washer for rear axle of /5; also see 33-41-1-232-709 and 33-17-1-236-956 for some or all later models.
07-11-9-931-083 A-13, used on size 12 bolts
Plain (solid) sealing washers & crush washers:
Note that many early crush type washers are now being shipped as slightly different number and are solid types. This has happened with both aluminum and copper types.
07-11-9-963-140; -130 DT RG C 12 x 15.5 crush, driveshaft drain and driveshaft fill.
07-11-9-963-999; -470; -047; -041; DT RG C (or A) 8 x 11.5 Fork drain, late model rear drive oil level inspection hole.
07-11-9-963-213; -200 14 x 20 DT RG rear drive drain; transmission fill and drain.
07-11-9-963-259; -200 oversize 16 x 20 DT RG rear drive drain; transmission fill and drain.
07-11-9-963-252 DT RG A 16 x 20 used at pulse air fitting at cylinder head and at the airbox.
07-11-9-963-073 10 x 13.5 x 1 solid washer for top of fork bolt.
07-11-9-931-622; -015 3.2
13-11-1-259-870 3.5 mm hole washer used on the Bing carburetor vacuum port screw.
07-11-9-936-413; -412; 07-11-9-931-637 A4 flat washer, 4.3
07-11-9-936-415; -416 5.3
07-11-9-963-010 DT RG A 5 x 7.5 small solid washer, fork drain.
07-11-9-963-151 solid washer 12 x 17 fork bottom.
07-11-9-963-034 solid washer, thermostat lower bolt 6.5 x 9.5.
07-11-9-963-130 DT RG A 12 x 15.5 solid washer for oil cooler banjo bolt; also at the neutral switch on early 5 speed transmissions. see also 61-21-1-355-262, and at fork lower, bottom, center bolt. Here is further information on possible washers for the oil cooler banjo bolts:
07-11-9-963-151, A12 x 17-cu These are copper, and note the 17 mm outer diameter.
07-11-9-963-132, A12 x 16-cu These are copper, and note the 16 mm outer diameter.
07-11-9-963-130, A12 x 15, 5al These are the stock aluminum washers, note the 15 mm outer diameter.
07-11-9-963-310; -300 DT RG C 18 x 22 crush, engine oil pan drain. -300 is solid washer.
07-11-9-963-002 flat washer 3.5 x 6
07-11-9-963-420 DT RG 26 x 31 used at dipsticks until 1980. Part is obsolete, but UNconfirmed information was that POSSIBLY #11-43-1-337-308 will work.
M-4 hex head bolts, 6KT SHR:
M-5 hex head bolts:
M-6 hex head bolts 6KT SHR
M-8 hex head bolts 6KT SHR:
07-11-9-911-605; 07-11-9-910-342 8 x 12 thread pitch 1.0
07-11-9-913-618; -624; 07-11-9-901-191; 07-11-9-919-939 8 x 16
07-11-9-913-640; 07-11-9-901-120 8 x 20
07-11-9-913-652 8 x 22
07-11-9-913-656; 07-11-9-901-125 M8 x 25
63-12-1-356-921 8 x 25 as used on side of /5 headlight shell
07-11-9-913-662 8 x 30
07-11-9-913-111; -674; 07-11-9-912-477; 33-41-1-232-701 M8 x 35
07-11-9-912-507 8 x 45
07-11-9-918-655 8 x 50
07-11-9-912-556 8 x 80
M-10 hex head bolts:
07-11-9-911-631 10 x 1 x 20 as used with /5/6 oil filter inner cap
46-52-1-235-511 10 x 20 special shoulder bolt used at center stand
07-11-9-913-807 10 x 12
07-11-9-913-831; 07-11-9-913-834 10 x 25
07-11-9-913-839; 07-11-9-901-166 10 x 30
07-11-9-913-837; -844; 46-71-232-703 10 x 35 -837 may be 10 x 30
07-11-9-913-855; -853; -868; 07-11-9-901-169; 33-53-1-232-702 10 x 45
07-11-9-913-859 10 x 50
07-11-9-912-453; 07-11-9-919-756; 07-11-9-901-107 10 x 60
M-12 hex head bolts:
M-14 hex head bolts:
6 mm Allen bolts ZYL SHR:
8 mm Allen bolts ZYL SHR:
07-11-9-919-637 8 x 12
07-11-9-919-640; 07-11-9-901-023 8 x 16 some books say 8 x 15 for -640
07-11-9-919-974; -969; 07-11-9-920-151 8 x 20 -974 may be 22 mm
07-11-9-919-646; 07-11-9-901-024 8 x 25
07-11-9-919-647; 07-11-9-901-025 8 x 30
07-11-9-919-984; 07-11-9-901-027 8 x 35
07-11-9-919-648; 07-11-9-901-029 8 x 40
07-11-9-919-638; 07-11-9-901-033 8 x 45
07-11-9-919-649; -796; -803; 07-11-9-901-034 8 x 50 -034 may be 8 x 45
07-11-9-919-651 8 x 55
07-11-9-919-656; 07-11-9-901-036 8 x 80
10 mm Allen bolts:
12 mm Allen bolts ZYL SHR:
14 mm Allen bolts
Threaded lengths, studs:
Common (??) screws, can be slotted or phillips, EVEN IF codes say other type:
No specific section, just "stuff":
FRONT FORK, controls assemblies, ETC:
The blanking plug was 32-72-1-236-605, probably fits all of those bikes (?).
TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS:
Crankcase breather, disc style was on the early Airheads; later was a reed valve. The disc is ~1/16" thick, 27 mm diameter 0.22" (#2 drill) hole if you want to make one. Printed circuit board of fiberglass material is OK for this. Source for newly made old-style Airhead breather discs, $5 each, $4 for O-rings, including USPS shipping: Dave Thompson, firstname.lastname@example.org
Hearsay has it that a better O-ring for the VM clock is the Harley Davidson oil pump cover O-ring #26434-76.
Valve stems for tubeless tires/rims:
I use two types of valve stems on BMW bikes:
The part numbers, details, are from MEMORY, so one should double check me here before ordering any. 36-32-1-452-748 is the kit consisting of the metal (steel) valve stem with O-ring and valve cap and nut. Nicely made product. These are used with Airhead tubeless rims as well as the cast K bike rims. For spoke wheels I use these with an 8 mm flat washer 07-11-9-931-697, which IS specified for their use. There is a 1-1/4" chrome valve stem, on a 45 degree angle, that I have used on the cast Snowflake rims. 0.435" holes, that I get from Patchboy.com, part 17-561, has a special inner grommet.
Long lasting fuel hose: http://www.mcmaster.com/#tygon-f-4040-a-tubing/=kh4623Rubber seal for the screw-in gas caps (NOT the black trim ring, but the SEAL, originally RED, but the red ones broke after awhile): 51-25-1-453-148.
16-11-1-232-237 plastic washer that fits 4 mm screws.
BMW 71-11-1-103-086 Screwdriver; Phillips & Pozi-driv
& Reed & Prince screws (see TOOLS article for lots more info):
Japanese JIS B 1012: These are different, but look like Phillips screws, & CAN be used with a Phillips screwdriver. These screws are identified by a single dot or a tiny x, on the head.
For a much more complete treatment of these, AND various other screw heads:
What should you know about methods of fastening things where mechanical stresses can occur (they CAN occur just from normal day to day temperature changes, not just mechanically induced stresses)? Obviously, the more stress cycling there is, the more likely for a threaded fastener to loosen. Using numbers of stress cyclings (official terminology is number of load cycles), versus actual clamping load, the following is information you can trust:1. An UNsecured (no locking method) bolt & nut is generally the worst case...somewhat depending on materials, steel-into-aluminum?, steel-into-steel? Strength drops quickly & constantly. Similar, only a bit better, is a bolt with a split ring lock washer & a nut; & only a bit better than that is a bolt with a toothed type lock washer & a nut. In general, split and sometimes other types of lock-washers, are NOT appropriate where forces applied are irregular, or recurring.
Initial upload: 02/25/2003
In general, specific updates/changes MAY not be identified here.
07/12/2016: Major update. Clarity, layout, scripts, H.L., metacodes. Quite a few changes to part numbers and descriptions.
Last check/edit: Monday, February 20, 2017
© Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer
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Last check/edit: Monday, February 20, 2017