There are THREE PARTS to this long article!
Part 1: Editing E-mail messages. INCLUDES a section on
traveling, using foreign computers.
Part 2: Printing or sending special characters from your computer.
Part 3: Useful URL/sources for BMW motorcyclists;
parts, links to people, websites, companies, services.
© Copyright, 2013, R. Fleischer
There is also a References
page; it is 78B, which has a LOT of
information! It has a long list of where to go for specific things & services, that are
not shown here on 78A. BOTH 78A and 78B should be looked at.
For MANUALS, a specific article, #80, should be looked-at.
I have NO financial or other interest in ANY company, product, or person I recommend!
PART 1. Editing E-mail Messages:
While there are
other methods for doing some of these things, my recommendations are simple & work well. If you are new to these things you
will need to practice; so, simply take any message you have received, click on REPLY, and play with the message. NOTE that
clicking on REPLY is not the same as REPLY ALL, or FORWARD, in some programs.
Experiment. So long as you have not clicked SEND, you won't
'send' your 'practicing'.
Just exactly what happens when you try to REPLY to a message, will depend somewhat on the settings you have or have made, & what type of E-mail program you are using. The settings and software in a recipient's computer also have a major effect. This is generic information for Windows computers.
***For those of you have Mac computers. When using a Mac, the Windows Ctrl key is called the CMD key (command); and the Windows ALT key is called the OPTION key.
The below type of editing is nearly universal and has been
for many years, & you
will find it in most word processing programs, even that ode to
complexity called Microsoft WORD or its simpler cousin,
WORDPAD, heck, even the bare-bones Notepad; as well as most word processing
First: set your E-mail program, if you can, so that replies to micapeak.com (or, most any internet mailing list) are automatically in PLAIN TEXT. Yes, I know that micapeak's present mail program will strip off html, but I have other reasons...and don't feel like getting into the confusion here. PLAIN TEXT means that all colors, images, & various special effects are NOT available, & therefore NOT SENT. Don't try to send images to micapeak.com....micapeak's servers will strip them off. Just where in YOUR E-mail program finding preferences or options or settings is a matter of what program you use. In every E-mail program I know of, you can set any particular E address you send to, for plain text. You could always just click, each time, on the appropriate place in a program to be sure that your message is sent in Plain Text, IF you have it set for html (rich text) for normal use. I find that to be annoying to remember.
The vast majority of LISTS on the Internet have HTML turned off by the list owner. That is for safety purposes & to limit the size of messages. SOME LISTS do NOT have HTML turned off. On others, you must post images to the LIST website page PHOTOS section; or, you might have to post to some on-line hosting service (many are totally free).
There can be some complications when using foreign characters,
foreign keyboards, and especially with special symbols, etc. SO....to avoid all sorts of weird problems...I suggest you spend a bit of time and just ensure that all messages to your
mailing lists, such as
Airheads@micapeak.com, are automatically sent in plain text.
Second: Set your E-mail program preferences so that the original message is always quoted in the reply. That makes it easier to have the message you are replying to, be on the page, and you can then edit out what you do not want left. You can add notes inside that message, if you want to, by identifying YOUR portion. I do that now and then by placing ASTERISKS in front of my reply. Usually replying to messages does not need to have that used. It is standard protocol for the Airheads List for all replies to be inserted AFTER the original message (and, you should be sure to edit the original message, just enough left to show what is needed). There are arguments on this subject, but...please, folks, ...... internet etiquette IS that replies are placed AFTER quoting the original (which you are going to edit so only the needed information is left). That means that replies are NOT placed at the beginning of quoted material.
NOTE: Sometimes posting on top IS done. I MAY do it myself IF the prior message was done that way. Especially if one additional message in the reply is being left. I MIGHT take the time to fix the message.
NOTE: The use of hand-held Smart Phones & Tablets has been increasing & are likely to eventually surpass the use of laptop & desktop computers. Smart phones & tablets are a world unto themselves as far as 'funny stuff' that CAN happen when trying to (or, gads, forgetting to) edit messages. That is due to the operating systems & mail programs being used.
There is one thing you must never, ever do:
This is particularly a HUGE annoyance for those reading your reply, if YOU receive Digest Mode messages and then reply with the entire digest without editing out most of it.
BTW...I find Digest Mode NOT worthwhile for
PLEASE, do NOT fail to remove all the other replies and chit chat from a Digest Mode that you are replying to!...just leave the bare basic information from the last reply!
I want to make it very clear to you what my personal method is for dealing with those folks who do not comply with the above: When I receive such an unedited Digest, I do NOT try to read hardly any of it. I SCAN IT VERY quickly, just enough to make sure it really is a big digest being posted. I then DELETE the entire posting. I NEVER EVER read and respond....unless I am so annoyed that I post a response to having had to wade through an entire digest.
I NEVER EVER try to find and read YOUR comment.
I consider such postings of entire digests DISCOURTEOUS.
Can you imagine what Smart Phone readers are seeing!....and maybe paying for?
Why not just get normal messages and NOT digests!!???
BASIC EDITING, the details (this is a simple method, there
I will assume you are using a mouse. If using a touch pad, modify appropriately.
To edit out parts you do NOT want sent in YOUR reply, there are several ways.
In REPLY, REPLY-ALL, and FORWARD modes:
Method #1: move your mouse to move the cursor to the beginning of the part you want to delete, & left click once. That changes the cursor (typically to blinking) & places it at that point. Now move the non-blinking mouse cursor to the END of what portion you want to eliminate, THEN press & hold the SHIFT key down, & while that key is down, left click the mouse. That has now highlighted just the area you wish to delete. Press DELETE.
If you are left-handed, and have reversed your mouse button functions, well, you know what to do!
Method #2: move
mouse to move the cursor to the end or beginning of the portion you wish to deal
with. Hold the left button of the mouse down (or appropriate button on the laptop while you move your finger on the
touchpad) as you move the mouse sideways to highlight the area of interest.
Raise finger from the button and touchpad if using that, and press DELETE.
You can in many instances also move the mouse both sideways and downward.
Note that the computer 'works on' areas you HIGHLIGHTED. Highlighting is important, it tells the computer you wish to do something to THAT area.
There are a FEW simple commands you will want to know. Some folks like to find some of these
commands on the toolbar, usually near the top of your E-mail program, but here are the pertinent important
1. To COPY an already highlighted area (perhaps you want to just copy, or copy & move a paragraph or section, or copy to someplace else in the computer, or print that part, or any number of reasons), press the Ctrl key, & HOLD IT DOWN, & while HELD DOWN, press the c key. That copies the now highlighted section into what is called, in Windows, the Clipboard. It remains there until you either put something else there; or, turn off the computer. If you want to, you can 'use it' as many times as you wish!
2. To PASTE that copied item, to anyplace in a page, move the mouse pointer so the cursor is at the place you want to put the information you copied, & left click. Then press Ctrl, hold it, & press v. You can do this multiple times if you ever had a reason....yes, no limit to number of copies.
3. Instead of JUST copying, as in 1. above, if you wanted to copy AND delete the highlighted area, use Ctrl and X, instead of Ctrl and c. You can still paste as noted.
By commonly accepted computer practice, instructions to press and holding a control or option type key while you press another key.... is displayed in text as Ctrl + c; or Ctrl + v; or Ctrl + x.
It could be ALT + something; or a Cmd key if you have that.
It is best to press & hold the first key & while holding it, press the second key. This avoids any problem with not pressing both keys at precisely the same time. There are actually some commands that use three keys, all three ending up pressed at the same time...but those are NOT used for editing documents. You can copy or delete or paste not only text, but images, in the same way.
To grab an image or do some things I have not mentioned, use the RIGHT button to click on the image (or text area, or?), see what options you are given. So, yes, there is a RIGHT CLICK function on your mouse, which has additional things you can do, including copying photos & either placing them someplace as a COPY, or MOVING the photo. Lots of functions are available. Experiment! Become proficient!
If the right and left click functions are not as you like, there is a mouse command function settings page in your computer, in Windows it is in the Control Panel.
***Many of you have Mac computers. When using a Mac, the Windows Ctrl key is called the CMD key (command); and the Windows ALT key is called the OPTION key.
that RECEIVE your messages may have trouble editing out (or editing at all) old
material when they post back to you. This almost always is not on LISTS,
but it does happen on some. The problem is due to
the wide variety of coding behind the scenes in the various
E-mail programs. The EASY answer to this problem is for
YOU to convert the message to PLAIN TEXT and thus send your reply message in PLAIN TEXT format. All e-mail
programs have that capability, usually via some often semi-hidden setting.
Of course, the down side is that PLAIN TEXT eliminates your ability to use
colors (other than basic black) and eliminates other html things such as photos.
But, in many instances, trying to edit as I have outlined could be frustrating,
because it may not work as I said. THE answer, is 99% of the time, to change the reply you are doing to PLAIN TEXT
right in the beginning.
IF YOU receive a message and you cannot seem to edit-out sections, YOU change that message to PLAIN TEXT...and then editing is easy.
Most E-mail programs have settings for html/rich text; or, Plain Text. You MAY have to hunt for where the settings are hidden. Most E-mail programs allow you to AUTOMATICALLY convert a reply, to any specific E address, to Plain Text, if that is what you want. You will find that PLAIN TEXT setting will save you a bunch of time!
Look at your E-mail contacts list, see if there is a setting there for individual addresses to have your messages to that address be in PLAIN TEXT.
If you don't use rich text very often, set your whole E-mail program to always
use plain text.
Foreign travel, foreign computers:
Background: If you went into your computer settings for KEYBOARD (the location of this function varies by operating system), you could reset your keyboard for MANY different foreign styles. UNfortunately, you would need to catalog and then remark your
keys unless you owned a foreign-marked keyboard. Unless you really need or want a foreign keyboard layout, I suggest you leave yours for:
On old WINDOWS computers, the keyboard language function is found in the Control Panel, under Keyboard. In later Windows computers, it is found in the Control Panel under Region & Languages.
When you travel
to foreign countries, which often, but not always use foreign
keyboards, they MAY OR MAY NOT be using a keyboard corresponding
to that country's settings for the keyboard. You can reset
the setting, as noted above, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO THE FUNCTION (which you may
not if in a hotel or motel); or, you must find out which are the
important keys you must know.
There is ONE key combination that may drive you nuts if you do not know about it. I highly suggest that if traveling to a foreign country, you write down the following information!
If you cannot find the @ symbol, or you find it (usual place is on the numeral 2 key at top left corner of the keyboard), and it will not display @, ASK a local person if you can not
find it. If you cannot do that:
The @ symbol may require two keystrokes; just like in bringing up an ASCII symbol. You can't send E-mail without the @ symbol.
If you cannot find someone to help you, try the ASCII standard method:
ALT + 64 yes, that was only TWO digits.
Here is what pressing ALT, holding it, and pressing 64 on the RIGHT SIDE numerical keys area, does in MY computer, and probably yours: @
You cannot do this with the numerical buttons at the top area of your keyboard...it MUST be at the right side numerical area. (laptops are different, however).
PART 2. Printing or sending special characters from your
... 'characters' here are not your crazy friends!
What follows is NOT intended to be a course in ANSI/ASCII and other characters, but is intended to QUICKLY give you a working knowledge. You can put the characters you want into WORD and other word processing documents, as well as in E-Mails!!...this tells you how to do it.
I already gave you ALT+64, above.
Way back when we nuts first started using
personal computers, there was a set of 256 characters, numbered from 0 to 255.
Two standards were used, that have some close
similarities. There was the America Standard Code for
Information Interchange, ASCII (typically spoken as ASS-KEY), and the American National
Standards Institute (ANSI). Most of the letters,
numbers, and a few other things like grammatical items such as
these: )(*&^%$#@ and others, are ANSI specified.
Our modern computers have text formatting and many other things,
like margins being specified, bold, italic, underline, tabs, and
embedded objects, ....and things got complicated.
ASCII does not support layout nor embedded objects....and is
often just called DOS or PLAIN TEXT. ASCII and ANSI are
often used interchangeably, and often wrongly so, but for our
purposes here, just use the special characters in the slang and
generic way, just call them ASCII (ass-key) symbols.
There are VASTLY more than 256 needed for modern computers.
We have all sorts of different world-wide languages that need to
be displayed on screens, and a whole vast array of punctuation
marks, that are commonly used even for basic English.
Accent marks of numerous types are an example.
Almost any symbol or character is available to YOU, from YOUR computer. But, you need a lot more than 256 to cover the world of need. On a practical basis, you obtain the characters from a character map chart, or, from a printed chart showing all the various forms. OK, confused yet? Don't be!
NOTE: Even on the same computer, some of these things will work on one of your programs, and maybe not another. Most of the time these things always work.
What I will show here in this article is the simple way of doing/using these things.
Foreign characters; special punctuation marks; degree symbol, and many dozens more are available from your computer.
***Many of you have Mac computers. When using a Mac, the Windows Ctrl key is called the CMD key (command); and the Windows ALT key is called the OPTION key.
There are TWO basic METHODS of getting these characters on screen and into some document or whatever. ONE method in Windows systems is to find the Character Map (usually something like this path: Start->Programs->Accessories->System Tools->Character map) and use it. IT IS SLOW TO DO IT THIS WAY, SINCE YOU MUST DO SEVERAL OPERATIONS. Still, the character map can be useful.
You might want to put a shortcut to the
Character map on the desktop. Before clicking your programs list to bring
the program on screen, just right click the listing, and send it to the desktop
as a shortcut. Using the Character Map is a bit of a hassle. You
might want to spend some time looking at the various Character
Map versions (try changing the font inside the Character
Map...this won't affect your other computer use). The Character Map
does allow you access to hundreds of special symbols,
of fonts variations, which have their own sets of characters
sometimes, and so on.
I seldom use the Character Map, as I typically only use maybe a dozen special characters, and those are easy to either memorize, or write the key strokes down someplace.
Programs like Microsoft's WORD (especially later versions of WORD) have these symbols/characters built-in, and you can call up the chart while composing or editing in WORD. There are a number of various charts located at the same access box. Although it may not seem intuitive, and probably isn't, the various charts are called up by asking for different FONTS in the SYMBOL program ITSELF. For example, in Office WORD 2007, you can find the function by clicking on INSERT, and then selecting what you want, which is either the sub-heading EQUATION (yes, has those too!)....or, in this case, SYMBOL. Select the character (try different FONTS, see how it changes things a lot). 95% of you will NOT need, nor use, the information in this particular paragraph.
MOST of you will only use A FEW ANSI/ASCII characters, and there is a MUCH easier way of dealing with them, which follows below:
Here is primarily what you will probably end up knowing.....and using!....
Certain keyboard key stroke COMBINATIONS will put ASCII/ANSI characters on the screen (well, I mean into your document, E-mail, etc). The font you have your computer set up to use, in any one program (WORD, or E-mail, or whatever), will somewhat determine certain things about these ASCII characters; 99% of the time you won't care about the differences, and will simply use the key stroke combinations to bring up the desired character. This is done by you pressing and holding the ALT key, ...and then, while still holding that key, enter a THREE OR FOUR digit number from the RIGHT SIDE keyboard pad. (if using a laptop, you must know how to insert the digits, which are scattered about on other keys, messily). There are some 2 digit numbers, the only pertinent one for you is probably the 64 number previously mentioned, but I doubt you will use it unless traveling in a foreign country.
To avoid trouble, check your keyboard to be sure the NumLock function key was not turned on....no sense in telling you to use it,... let's keep this simple!
When you press the keys combination, if the character does show on your screen, it USUALLY will display OK on other folks screens. There are a few exceptions. The 'and' symbol (&), might show a question mark...and a few other anomalies...on FOREIGN (non-English keyboard) computers. For a rather complete listing of all these characters (be prepared to print them):
Here is an example of a few ASCII symbols and how to get them into your document or E-mail, etc. Note that in many instances of foreign letter characters, ASCII characters are available in both lower and upper case. HERE, below, the plus sign + means only that you HOLD the ALT key down, and then push the number keys on the RIGHT side of your keyboard, one after another in sequence. Laptop owners may need to press the Fn key, or some other combination, as there is no right side number keyboard for laptop owners....so, for laptop owners, see your documentation.
°, the degree symbol, is ALT + 0176
¢, the cents symbol, is ALT + 0162
£, the money pound symbol, is ALT + 0163
©, the copyright symbol, is ALT + 0169
¿, the Spanish beginning sentence question mark, is ALT + 0191
ü, the widely used German character, is ALT + 0252. You can, as with most letters, get the upper case: Ü, from ALT + 0220
The ASCII chart listings include 'strange' punctuation marks, even a space non-character and some exponent numbers, and some fractions.
NOTE: when you type on your keyboard, for 'regular' letters (both upper and lower case), and all numbers, and all punctuation, ETC., as shown on your keyboard, those are all actually ASCII/ANSI; that your computer converts to an ALT + xx or ALT + xxx or ALT + xxxx type electronic signal. This is a very simplified way of describing it, but is adequate here. Beginning at ALT + 0140, non-keyboard characters are available.
Have fun, and try some out. If intrigued, get a chart of them from the Internet, and print it.
Useful URL/sources for BMW motorcyclists; parts, links to people,
websites, companies, services:
Sub-section: BMW Parts
Below are Internet sites that, somewhat differently, give you part numbers, or allow you to look up part numbers from sketches; also these have prices, etc. Each of these websites does things differently...so if you need some sort of tech or information on a part, you might want to try them all.
Sometimes we do need to enter known part numbers, not just
search for the proper part number).
entering part numbers into most
sites they do NOT want hyphens nor spaces between the
Here are the websites I use now and then for finding part numbers or for entering part numbers:
This website works nicely by model, year, and you can go back as far as 1948 if you use the Archive feature.
If that link does not work for the fiche, just use the main page and find the place to click. I find this website to be very useful.
There is a place on that main page to click for the parts catalog.
Every one of the above websites uses some form of the BMW parts catalog with useful sketches (often referred-to as the ETK catalog), but they are not all the same, nor do they all work the same. I suggest you try each of the four above & give a hard look-see at the illustrated parts listings, & then decide which one of them you like the best. You MAY have to use more than one, or all of them, for some part to get the full information.
All will sell you parts, of course.
Motobins of England; and some of the German sites, may be useful at times. Many times Motorbins is cheaper, even after freight is considered. If you want GENUINE BMW parts, be sure to inquire.
NOT forget your local dealer, who may well offer a discount if you are a good
customer & you ask! If that
local dealership has a knowledgeable parts person, you are doubly
Keep in mind that any local dealership, or independent
that you develop a relationship with (particularly on a first-name
basis) is likely going to be the place you will get the best service from,
for parts, and sometimes advice on parts, etc.
http://www.powerboxer.de This site contains all sorts of information on BMW bikes, including Airheads. It is in German, but you can click and use the translator. HUGE amount of information.
Sub-section: BMW SERVICE
A BMW independent service company that I recommend is Ted Porter's Beemershop. They are very knowledgeable about parts & service, & STOCK many parts! It is OFTEN to your great advantage to speak to someone in a parts department that KNOWS your bike! Many a time these folks will steer you in the correct direction; when just ordering from someone else via a part number YOU provide (or they provide!), might get you into trouble. I can recommend Beemershop for quality & honest repair work of all types on your BMW bike. www.beemershop.com Located in California. My comments here apply to K bikes too!
On the East coast is Tom Cutter's Rubber Chicken Racing
The PRIMARY source for AIRHEADS technical information you have not found elsewhere's, is the Airheads Beemer Club mailing LIST, also called the Airlist. Information on subscribing is at the top of my technical articles list page: Technical-articles-list . I say PRIMARY, because while my website is intended as a major reference source, that LIST covers anything & everything Airhead, & you can usually get a reply rather quickly. Once a LIST member, you have access to the list archives. A MAJOR reason to join that LIST is the LARGE number of Airhead owners on it; and the various Guru's; who will reply. For those who are already Members, here is the archives address:
The primary source for technical help for
Classic K bikes, is the KBMW list on yahoo groups.
A lot of information is also on Anton Largiader's website.
Lots of GOOD stuff. You can also use:
Some of the 'guru's' on the Airlist tend to discourage direct inquiries (I do! as they would benefit only one person), at least one does not:
Oak Okleshen: AskOak@aol.com
Oak writes a new technical article, published every month in the Airheads Beemer Club magazine called AIRMAIL. See joinclub.htm for information on joining the Club. Oak has an index of past articles available. He also does SUPERB repair work! Oak was MY personal mentor/guru....or whatever you want to call the relationship; from AFTER I worked as a BMW wrench and also for a BMW dealership. If you contact him to do repair work for you, be sure to ask about how long the job will take.
My personal recommendations for repair work are OAK (Chicago area, and noted above); Ted Porter who is on the West Coast and does business as www.beemershop.com; Bob Clement in Montana who does business as BMW Montana; Tom Cutter in the East Coast area, doing business as the Rubber Chicken Racing Garage.
Sub-section: BMW Electrics:
A source for all
sorts of electrical items for all BMW motorcycles & some Guzzi & even Laverda!....is
They are at 18195 Augusta Drive, in Monument, Colorado.
(719) 487-9397. They stock electric's
items, including ignition items, starters, alternators, parts to
repair these ETC. They also repair these things...and
also have the EnDuraLast Alternator (it is THEIR product); and,
many items that are NOT available from BMW, such as internal
diodes & regulators for the oilhead and K bike
alternators, ETC. Compare their prices with
BMW's on BMW-sold parts. I don't have any
financial stake here, this is just a hint. They carry Bosch repair parts, Valeo repair parts, and new Valeo starters (both 8 and 9 tooth,
with the updated magnet structures); and have always provided prompt shipping.
I have NO financial stake or other interest in ANY company or product I recommend!
There are other
sources for some types of electrics, such as Thunderchild,
http://www.thunderchild-design.com; and Motorrad Elektrik (Rick is very helpful, and their alternator
product is the Omega).
They have an Airhead electrics (charging) manual that is small and pretty good.
Here is a good source:
Jim Davis, owner, Eastern Beaver Company:
Motorcycle Relay Kits, Modulator Kits, Powerlet, Centech, Posi-Lock, and other parts. A knowledgeable guy, with a somewhat different viewpoint at times. Quality products, some of which are VERY handy.
Here is the URL for the Chicago Region BMW
Club, the source for their various repair manuals.
The tuneup manual; 10K manual, tire manual, etc., is still available.
The Electrics manual, now priced at $30 (?), is simply THE best electrics manual for airheads, and Oak was primarily responsible for that manual. HIGHLY recommended. This is THE Airhead electrics manual to own! It covers EVERYTHING, almost anyway. That website also has some information on the background of that Club, and the background on Oak, etc., and those various manuals. There is a CRITIQUE of the electrics manual on MY site: chitechelmn.htm If you own one of these manuals, I suggest you use my critique, to update your manual.
You MIGHT want to own the one from www.motoelekt.com too!....much smaller and pointed towards troubleshooting.
Sub-section: A few more references
This is Phil Hawksley's website.....lots of good information there.
Yeah, I know, a K bike group. A good one. I participate on that LIST
http://motobrick.com Forum style. K bikes. Active, lots of opinions, watch for awhile to sort out who knows, who guesses, etc.
Has factory bulletins for the pre-/5 bikes.
http://www.beemergarage.com/literature.html This URL for them has a LOT of literature, all sorts of things, definitely worth a long look-see. This one is NOT just for the pre-/5.
This URL link will take you to the Mark Huggett BMW Mobile Tradition site.....a source and reference for, especially, OLD BMW parts, restorations, work, etc.
MOTORCYCLES (and, in some cases, the /5 and /6 models too):
This section has a list of sources for parts, information, literature, technical and every sort of help for your PRE-1970 BMW motorcycle. SOME of those listed are also good sources for POST-1970.
Mobile Tradition is BMW's own outlet for information, parts, etc., for older BMW products. BMW has been changing the website address for such as their Mobile Tradition Teilekatalog, and you may have to do a search, or contact your dealership, to find out the correct web address.
NOTE! Snowbum has not worked on Vintage BMW bikes in decades. Snowbum's extensive notebooks on the /2 era bikes disappeared around 1975. Please refer to knowledgeable folks listed on this page, not Snowbum!...who has very little on his site on them (he does have cleaning the slingers, and some on the electrics, carbs, etc.).
NOTE: See article 78B for lots of additional references, for airheads....and some pre-airheads.
Duane Ausherman: His website with a
lot of technical articles covers much of the /2 era, as well as
the /5 and some applicable to later models. He has a somewhat unique way of presenting
information that you may appreciate:
This is also the home to Randy Glass' major and SUPERB illustrated article on /5 (and later) front fork alignment.
Sub-section: Miscl sources
http://www.advrider.com/ Adventure Riders site. This is an all-brand site, but has a LARGE amount of information and traffic for BMW GS bikes and a LOT
applicable to all Airheads. Be careful who you listen to.
Bayrische Magnetzünder http://www.magnetos.de German website, magnetos parts and service
Bob's BMW http://www.bobsbmw.com
A good source
Blue Moon BMW. Online catalog, exploded parts diagrams. Bikes, parts, tech.
Clever BMW tools, videos, and help: Ed Korn previously did business as Cycle Works, in Oregon (yes, that is the town name in the State of Wisconsin). He did some machine work, had LOTS of tools (and some parts) for everything from the Isetta cars, through the /2 era, until the Airheads stopped production in the late 90's. He had a rather extensive line of tools, some VERY cleverly designed, and he had instructions, videos, all sorts of stuff. Doing a run-through of his website is informative to many folks. Ed sold the business to Cycle Works LLC, located at 5805 Haskins Street, Shawnee, KS, 66216 (913) 871-6740. Contact the new owner at: Dan@cycleworks.net
((NOT .com!!)). The url is: www.cycleworks.net
MORE TOOLS: FOR SURE see my ENTIRE tools.htm article!!!!
Darryl Richman. Reach him through his website http://darryl.crafty-fox.com Lots of knowledge and can probably direct you to where you need to go for things.
THE premier auction site. Some sources for vintage BMW parts even have full-time stores run through Ebay.
Machine shop and other work. In Germany.
His old website address does NOT work.
John's Beemer Garage. Catalogs, drawings.
Has factory bulletins for the pre-/5 bikes.
Kradrider LIST War
Mark Hugget GmbH; in Switzerland.
Restoration forum, on-line shop, lots of parts.
Old Timers Garage. New made parts. Poland. http://www.oldtimergarage.szn.pl
Slash 2. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/slash2/
One of the Yahoo groups. It does NOT deal 'just' with the /2 bikes, but with all vintage BMW bikes:
Hans Radstaack firstname.lastname@example.org. Dutch specialist, speaks English. For early magnetos.
Vintage BMW Motorcycles. One of the many Yahoo Groups
Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners http://www.vintagebmw.org
meyer-bikes.com In Germany!
Bench Mark Works, Craig Vechorik: http://www.benchmarkworks.com
An excellent source for information, parts, and technical help, etc. Two divisions, one in Mississippi, one in Canada. Snowbum disagrees with his remarks on not using GL5 oil on Airheads and later. Vetch stocks parts for the old BMW's....and quite a few for the later bikes, including manuals and other literature. Well worth your time to browse this site. Almost a must if you have a pre-airhead (before 1970 models).
http://www.motorrad-stemler.de check it out for /2 parts sketches/etc.
****I don't typically discuss the /2 and /3 bikes.
I also do not follow Vech's site, nor the sites for the older
bikes. Two reasons. One is
that my huge notebook on the
/2 and /3 era bikes was somehow lost. The other reason is
that these old bikes have a specialized
following, some of who are much
more knowledgeable than I am...as my memory has faded on them over
the years, as I got further
and further away from working on
them. However, there are some sources for information, such
as /2 LIST on the internet, and
in a very few books.
One of the books that is just about a must to own is the
Barrington Motor Works BMW /2 Restoration and Service Manual.
This is a well done book, reviewed by many 'experts' in the field
before it was published. The book is roughly $100, and
contact email@example.com or call 607-664-2673
Sub-section: model specific
I am sure you can figure out what -BS means on the above
http://www.R65.org That is for R45 and R65
http://www.bmwscotter.org/ Worth looking at. ILLUSTRATED HOW-TO articles.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/kbmw This is almost entirely for the CLASSIC K bikes (K1, K75, K100, K1100). High on TECH.
http://motobrick.com Forum style. Classic K bikes. Active, lots of opinions, watch for awhile to sort out who knows, who guesses, etc.
You can get a list of motorcycle makes, models, various groups, from the server at micapeak.com:
Just one such group is:
The above URL has a lot more than just GS. You will find good descriptions of all the various Monolever and Paralever bikes, including GS; G/S; ST.....
Subsection: other sites
for serial numbers and general production dates, there are several sites for this sort of thing, here is another one:
There is a vin decoder of a different sort on my (this) site too....see the article IDnumbrs.htm Lots of information, including HOW TO READ VIN NUMBERS.
Instruction sheets for Dyna ignition conversions, etc.
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America website. Click on Country Store to get back issues.
Lots of stuff on this website.
Mike Hamende has sold Airhead Salvage and Sales, that was near Austin Texas.
The company is now called Martindale Motorcycle Works, in Martindale, Texas...it is still in business; ....airhead, oilhead, and K salvaged parts. The new owner is Mike Orloff.
The new phone number is (512) 357-3842 Same website and e-mail address as before:
See my REFERENCES page for more salvage places, MORE sources for parts and sources for most everything else.
Koni no longer makes shocks for our
airheads. The Koni name and tooling was sold, and the new
company DOES have products, including repair parts:
You can also probably get the Ikon AND Koni parts you need (or, even overhauls) from Dave Gardner; firstname.lastname@example.org. He is located in San Francisco.
Hagon Products Co. 7 Roebuck Road; Hainault Industrial Estate; Essex IG6 3JH; England
phone: 0208 0502 6222; fax: 0208 502 6274
Wilbers is a good aftermarket shock,
available from sources that are Members of the Airheads Mailing
List, of micapeak.com
Sidecars, SideCarTalk is the group name, sometimes referred to as SCT2. This is THE group for sidecar technical help.
NOTE.....there is a sidecar section on my website, more than just one article...but....here is a link to just one article, it has some sidecar specific URL's: sidecarURL.htm
of references are on the Airheads Club website:
That website has technical articles written by myself....and many others. Click on that main page under Technical Tips. A clickable link on the left side of the page. There are quite a few pages to the Technical Tips section. UNfortunately, the new version of that website demands you be a Member of the Club, before you can access these; and, the Table of Contents is not yet done.
Bing carburetor page.....scan down to your carburetor model, and then see what components it is made up of: http://www.bingpower.com/english/service/einstellblaetter.html
Here is the name of a source for electrical
sockets, plugs, cables, kits, far beyond what is in most
autoparts stores or your BMW dealership. High quality stuff
here. Powerlet Products. You
can do a Google on that, or try Whitehorse Press, they have a
catalog that includes Powerlet Products. Powerlet's
website is the more comprehensive.
Here is information on a
solid source, repeated from earlier:
Jim Davis, Owner, Eastern Beaver Company:
Motorcycle Relay Kits, Modulator Kits, Powerlet, Centech, Posi-Lock, Parts. A knowledgeable guy, with a somewhat different viewpoint at times. Quality products, some of which are VERY handy.
Speedometer work: North Hollywood Speedometer www.nhspeedometer.com
(I can no longer recommend P.A.S., which is Palo Alto Speedometer, for such work).
You can usually obtain, relatively cheaply, the same high quality tools that originally came in the bike's tool kit, from your BMW dealership. BMW factory special tools are pricey and only rarely needed. See my tools.htm article on this website for LOTS more information.
Clever BMW tools, videos, and help: Ed Korn previously did business as Cycle Works, in Oregon (yes, that is the town name in the State of Wisconsin). He did some machine work, had LOTS of tools (and some parts) for everything from the Isetta cars, through the /2 era, until the Airheads stopped production in the late 90's. He had a rather extensive line of tools, some VERY cleverly designed, and he had instructions, videos, all sorts of stuff. Doing a run-through of his website is informative to many folks. Ed sold the business to Cycle Works LLC, located at 5805 Haskins Street, Shawnee, KS, 66216 (913) 871-6740. Contact the new owner at:
Dan@cycleworks.net ((NOT .com!!)) The url is: www.cycleworks.net
NOTE!...I have a major article on TOOLS.... tools.htm.
That article lists LOTS of tool sources, besides the above one. It has important things to know; and part numbers, etc.
Be sure to read that article fully (besides the humor at the top).
03/12/2006: incorporated all prev. revisions, and updated URL's for parts and prices sources,
re-arrange order of things for clarity.
05/22/2006: add http://vintagebmw.org
07/19/2006: update URL's, and information on a few companies
08/01/2006: add R45/R65 URL; and r-arrange the entire page
01/13/2007: update salvage yards
02/16/2007: re-arrange for electrics stuff in one area; add latest contact info for Chitech; P.A.S.
06/01/2007: minor editing.
06/02/2007: more ASCII information; add Jim Davis' Eastern Beaver
08/06/2007: Update Anton's website URL information
12/14/2007: added more info on beemergarage
01/01/2008: Fix Chicago BMW Club address
01/03/2008: Add hyperlink for German words
01/06/2008: move driveshaft information to References page
01/07/2008: fix moa.org country store hyperlink problem
01/07/2008: fix crbmw.org website url; remove "For the R80GS and R100GS, only, take a look at:
wendell/gs/node1.html The link and top domain is dead
01/18/2008: remove F, OT, Z, S information to article 39
01/19/2008: Update Cycleworks (tools)
07/10/2009: Minor updates, re: Barrington
08/31/2009: update on Chicago's manuals. Check buchanan's site...still has wrong notations.
10/31/2009: lots of updating of URLs, information, etc.
12/31/2009: Update entire article, add lots more to ASCII too.
01/01/2010: Add Mobile Tradition information, inadvertently left out during a prior update
03/16/2010: Clean up the article, still messy, but I eliminated MANY duplications, huge font
03/27/2010: Updated Airhead Salvage information
04/20/2010: Remove and modify some hyperlinks
08/22/2010: Update Vech's URL
09/21/2010: Clean up article a bit.
11/25/2010: Clean up & clarify my listing of websites for ETK type information; add some
01/15/2011: remove references, thunderchild & buchanan pages...I have the information in
04/13/2011: Add editing information
06/04/2011: Add bmwr65.org link
08/19/2011: Add Meyer bikes link
10/21/2011: Remove Chicago BMW, as was going out of business
05/15/2012: Edit for clarity
05/24/2012: add this link: http://www.bmwscotter.org/
10/15/2012: Add QR code, add language button, update Google Ad-Sense code
10/25/2012: Update Google Ad-Sense code properly, as was NOT done on 10/15/2012.
Clarify many details in Editing section, expand it. Fix a LOT of underlining
that were not links.
11/10/2012: Clean up for new size; add MAC information. Re-arrange order of sections;
make formal sections.
12/17/2012: Add link to powerboxer.de
04/05/2013: Update the article for more clarity on editing and special symbols too.
05/24/2013: Add http://www.advrider.com/
©Copyright 2013, R. Fleischer
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