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The Alternator/Charging System,
How it Works.....AND....Troubleshooting!

Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer 

This article is NOT a substitute for Articles 14, 14A, 15A, 15B, 15E, 17, 18.  This article is to be used in addition to those articles.   >>>   I WANT YOU to read ALL OF these articles...and more....!!!

You may also want to refer to one of the articles on the Airhead Voltage Regulators, etc.

Description of the Charging System:
(includes some troubleshooting & problems...much more later in article)

The BMW Airhead charging system is the same; with only modest variations, on ALL models from the introduction of the 1970  /5 series), to the end of production in 1995-1996.  Changes over the years included a larger physical stator with more than one resistance value & number of winding turns, several changes to the rotor wire size & number of turns & generally lower electrical resistance with each later change;  an added diode board connection in the 1974-1975 transition period, and various types of voltage regulators; both early mechanical and later electronic types.

The Authorities (Police) models have varied somewhat; but, in general, they begin charging at a slightly lower engine rpm; but the TOTAL MAXIMUM output is REDUCED.  The voltage regulator is set to a higher voltage.   The last Airheads did NOT have 280 watt alternators (the maximum output of any of the Bosch units), but the charging began earlier, just like the Authorities models.  The charging on later standard & Authorities models can be poor if the associated ROTOR is not the correct version.  Otherwise, most any Bosch charging system alternator parts can be interchanged, and work 'adequately'.

The Airhead charging system consists of a three-phase alternator, a diode board for rectification of Alternating Current to Direct Current, a voltage regulator, the GEN lamp, the battery, and the Ignition switch and possibly a Kill switche.  The voltage regulator (that controls alternator output) is NOT part of the alternator brush assembly, as it is in nearly all modern cars.  The GEN lamp, before charging begins, is fed by current coming through the ignition switch from the battery.   Models after the /5 had a KILL SWITCH located on the right side controls assembly on the handlebars.  That switch is also in the circuit sending current to the GEN lamp.  SOME riders never use that kill switch, so if you are having some problems, I suggest you move the kill switch back and forth half a dozen times and then see if your GEN lamp is working more properly.  When you do testing on the system, you need the KILL switch centered ("ON" or "RUN" position). The Kill switch has been the cause for a few VERY rare instances of ignition problems, described later in this article.

The maximum alternator wattage output varied by model & year.... and particularly with what parts are in any particular motorcycle, since most parts interchange physically and electrically (fully or partially).  NOTE:  substituting for the last version rotor in a system with an earlier stator, is NOT always a good idea, power output might suffer.

The stock /5 had a 180 watt alternator, which can be upgraded to the 280 watt alternator by use of a very specific version of the early /6 alternator stator: the 1974 & some early 1975 production year 105 mm stator.  Some late 1974 & early 1975 models did have the larger 107 mm stator, which will NOT fit the stock /5 timing case.  BMW incorporated the changed timing chest casting & went to the 107 mm larger stator at irregular times/models, perhaps until the stock of early cases using the 105 mm stator were used up.   105 mm 280 watt stators with a proper diode board work fine.  The proper diode board has an extra terminal, a center-tap on the stator windings, and was standard from /6 onwards.   The extra stator terminal is electrically called the WYE terminal, but most just use "Y" or 'center tap terminal".  

The three phase windings are three separate windings, so there are SIXE wires.  These can be connected in a DELTA format, or a  Y (WYE) format.  Only in this format can a CENTER-TAP be had directly, so the Bosch stators that have a Y terminal are all internally WYE connected for the three windings.

You can use a /5 diode board with the 105 mm or 107 mm alternators, but it takes a /6 or later diode board with the extra diodes and the extra single wire connection to the stator ("Y"), to obtain the full wattage output that is possible. 

The stator diameter (105 or 107 mm) is the measurement of the stator metal portion that fits a short distance INTO the timing chest cavity.

BMW mounted the diode board on rubber mounts on some models.  This was a bad idea, & was never done on all models. The following models come with cast-in metal mounts, and do NOT need to have 'solid diode board mounts' installed:  /5; /6; 1978-1987 R65 and R80.   Solid metal aftermarket mounts perform electrically much better, and may offer slight additional diode board cooling; and there is no rubber mountings to deteriorate.  This is a VERY worthwhile upgrade.  There is an article on this website about these mounts and the necessary wiring modifications:

BMW has used a variety of battery ampere-hour sizes, with two basic sizes of battery case over the years.    Any of these batteries will start and operate the engine.  The difference is the amount of reserve capacity; and cranking ability at cold temperatures.   There is a large article about batteries on this website:

Whilst the tendency is to simply think of the alternators as 180 or 280 watts of output, in truth, outputs are specified at 180, 238 (R90S and Authorities), 240, 250, 280.  The last of the Airheads had 240 watt alternators, very low ohm rotors, and charging began a bit lower in rpm than earlier models.  That was the tradeoff; slightly lower rpm for beginning of any charging, but a lower maximum output.  The R90S Rotor, and perhaps STATOR diameter was changed due to the rpm attainable on that model (actually, MUCH more likely because many were raced, as there are later Airhead models rated at 250 more maximum RPM), "said" to avoid the rotor from striking the stator laminations, due to crankshaft whipping.  For practical non-racing purposes, any of the older rotors will work; and, in fact, I have never heard of a R90S with the larger rotor having any problems in up to and a bit past redline RPM.  The Authorities model has the same 238 watt rating as the R90S; but, is designed to produce usable output at a slightly lower rpm than all the others, except the very last Airheads.   Almost all alternator parts are physically interchangeable (the 105/107 mm stators being the exception)....and one might find almost any combination of parts when examining an Airhead charging system on any motorcycle.  NOT all combinations are wise or will work properly.  In general, the only low-charging problems that might occur is with the last rotors (2.8 ohms) if installed in earlier bikes.

As earlier described, the /5 model diode board did not have the extra diodes for the center-tap of the stator winding (there was no such center tap then), as did all the /6 & all later.  This is one of several reasons the /5 had a lower output.  The /5 had a higher resistance rotor, 6.9 ohms, often just called the 7 ohm rotor.  That higher resistance, compared to later rotors,  was probably done to limit wear rate on the electrical contact points in the MECHANICAL Voltage Regulator.  The /5 era 7 ohm rotor can not be energized by the battery, nor by the alternator after charging begins, to as high a current as later models with lower resistance rotors.  Thus, the magnetic field in the /5 rotor can never be as high as either of the two later rotors.  It is actually a bit more complicated than that, as there is limited room in the rotor for the windings, and a compromise was made in wire size and number of turns, involving something called ampere-turns.  Aftermarket alternator manufacturer's have solved the problems of those needing more alternator output, and outputs to 600 watts with alternators mounted in the SAME ORIGINAL BMW MOUNTING HOLE ARE AVAILABLE.   See the Omega alternators, here:

There are NO current regulators, only voltage regulators, in the Airhead alternators.  Alternators are usually considered to be self-limiting for current output. The first voltage regulators on the Airheads were electro-mechanically operated, and located in a metal can.  These had a mechanically adjustable relay, the contacts of which fed electrical current to the rotor.  These contacts began to vibrate/oscillate open/closed as the battery voltage (actually, alternator output) reached the adjusted-for value.  There are articles on all the regulators on this website....including how to service/adjust the mechanical ones (the Electronics regulators will fit OK).  The mechanical regulator was changed to an electronics type during the transition time to an electronic ignition, probably to eliminate electronic noise from the electrical-sparking at the mechanical regulator contacts. The first generation electronic regulator was in a somewhat similar metal can as was the earlier mechanical regulator, but the metal can was shorter. These METAL CAN electronic regulators were also adjustable, the adjustment being sealed by a drop of rather tenacious sealing paint on them, but the regulators could be rather easily modified for full adjustability by removing the paint or replacing the tiny control.  The last of the regulators were all in flat plastic boxes, fully transistorized, not made to be adjustable (although possible).  These came in several varieties, the very last versions being slightly upgraded to better handle the possible increased rotor current of the 2.8 ohm rotors. All sorts of information on these various regulators are in separate articles on this website.  Aftermarket regulators, adjustable and non-adjustable are available.

In the early 1980's, BMW had many problems with what was always said to be Wehrle brand diode boards.  The truth is that some with Bosch names on them had the same problems.  I have always suspected that the two brands traded parts between the factories, or there was a part-ownersip, or sub-contractor thing going on.  BMW apparently thought that the problems were from vibration, and incorporated rubber mounts (generally in the /7 era), but the problem was NOT from vibration.  All of the problems were that of overheating at the too-short-length soldered wires at the 6 large power diodes, due to failure of those wires to be left long enough to be bent-over & soldered over a wide area.  This is sort-of fixable.  It is a difficult and labor intensive job to fix them by adding a tiny hole in the board & wrapping/soldering an extra piece of wire to the diode wire UNDER the board, and then to the top of the board.  LONG ago, Oak published that method in AIRMAIL.  It is NOT practical for most to even attempt this; I've done it, and don't want to, ever again. 

NERDY:  What has been needed is a simple, easy (& cheap) method of repairing the overheated diode board solder joints at one or more of the 6 large diodes places. 
I have done lasting repairs (so far!) by using a higher temperature solder on cleaned-up copper pads on the stock boards, no drilling needed.  That is what I would recommend, if your problem is one or more of those solder joints.  You can VISUALLY see the problem, if present...the soldered area discolors right through the coating. If you want to try an easy fix, that may work for you:

Plumbers use a type of solder that is 50-50 mixture of tin and lead.  You probably can get a few inches of large round gauge size from a plumber; or, have the nearest electronics repair shop do the job for you in minutes.  Plumbers also have used this 50-50 solder in bars form, which could be used by you (tiny piece at a time).  The proposed fix on the diode boards is to use a sharp Xacto or other knife blade, on QUITE A FLAT ANGLE, scraping away the outer colored coating all around the diode solder joint.  You must be thorough, using the tip of the knife to get right to the edge of the wire.  Do not scrape away the copper. If you want to try chemical means (which I DO SUGGEST), use a strong gel-type paint may clean up the coating good enough. Clean it off, after it hopefully works to remove the enamel coating, with a small rag with water on it, and then Q-tips with home type isopropyl rubbing alcohol.  You need to use common soldering flux (rosin type), as the 50-50, AFAIK, never comes with a flux core as does electronics 60/40 and other electronics solders.  If you have access to other solders with higher melting point temperatures than electronics 60/40, you can use that.  Enlarge the soldering pad area on the diode board (just clean off the colored coating) so it is considerably larger...and it must be cleaned to be SHINY, to get a larger and GOOD solder joint.  The ALSO CLEAN AND SHINY diode wire MUST be soldered all-around, cleanly & neatly, leaving a good sized amount of solder.  Preparation is your friend here.  A common soldering iron can be used. I suggest one with a fairly substantial mass to its tip.

Nerdy:  Replacing 1 or more large diodes, should one fail, is possible,  but probably too expensive to seriously consider, considering the labor to remove & replace them.  It can be done, and you may be able to find the large size diodes at a good price; and can get a lot of satisfaction about DYI.  It is also possible to replace any of the small diodes...that is typically a lot easier. The information on diode part numbers, etc., is on this website, see articles # 14A and 15.  

You could always, at more expense, purchase a brand-new later board, or an aftermarket high power diode board.  The stock board is certainly adequate... contrary to a lot of false ideas & misleading statements.  You might find an original diode board in very good condition...for very low $, as they are often removed when still OK.

The electronic regulator should be used on the 1981 & later bikes, as they have need for smoother, less spikey electrical noise due to the electronic ignition.  The older mechanical regulator slowly deteriorates, & an electronic type can be substituted, whether the Bosch, Wehrle, or even a car type or better yet an aftermarket adjustable one.  You can also service that mechanical regulator, article is on this website.  Most any VR from a car that has the same three prongs and same case mounting, will work OK.  I prefer modifying the early Bosch electronic regulator in the metal can, so the adjustment is easier to do (on this website in detail); or, to use an aftermarket adjustable regulator, from such as or   They have them quite reasonably priced.  Also OK are the higher voltage non-adjustable types, usually 14.2 or 14.4 volts.   Whatever you do, the 14.2 +- volt regulators are better for your battery, as opposed to the original 13.8 volt types.  DISregard those that say the headlights burn out quicker. What IS true is that on a FLOODED battery, the higher voltage VR's do use a bit more water over time.

NERDY:  There is some indication that the last version of the BMW installed voltage regulators will handle the increased rotor current drawn by the later lower ohm rotors more reliably.  Earlier regulators MAY hold up.  Yes, if anal enough, you can modify earlier regulators to handle more current.  That involves changing the power transistor to a higher rated type, and possibly increasing the heat dissipation method (probably NOT necessary).   Interestingly, it is difficult to find the current rating of any of the VR's....but the power transistor does have numbers and thus a rating for current.

The GEN lamp, necessary in the stock system to initiate charging, does not fail often.  There is a modification that allows the system to start up even if the lamp fails (and makes a very slight improvement on rpm at which charging begins).  It is on this website as article #19:

How it all works:
This is where ALSO reading article 14A and 15A may particularly help in understanding.   Article 14A has information on just exactly what 3 phases are, in sketch format: 

When the ignition key is ON (start/run position), a small amount of electricity flows from the battery, through the ignition switch, then through the GEN lamp, & then to the D+ terminal of the voltage regulator (blue wire).  In a motorcycle with a KILL switch, the electricity also flows through it.   The lamp internal resistance acts to limit the current & also gives you an indication by illuminating, that the lamp is OK. This small current must travel to electrical ground in order to have the lamp illuminate.  It does that by passing through the voltage regulator via its Df terminal (Blue-black); then to the Df terminal at the brush holder for the rotor.  The electricity goes through one carbon brush into the rotor via the rotor slip ring....& then out the rotor via the other slip ring, through the other brush, to the brush D- terminal, to the engine ground (which is the same as the battery negative (-) terminal, electrically-speaking).  The connection to ground is made doubly, by the mechanical connection of the D- terminal (it does 'look' insulated), & the brown wire going to it, which goes to the voltage regulator.  This makes a "complete circuit" in electrical-speak, & the small current now produces a TINY magnetic field in the rotor.   The GEN lamp is LIT, brightly.
When the engine is started the rotor is rotating as it is fastened to the end of the crankshaft.  The rotor's rotating  magnetic field induces a magnetic field in the non-moving STATOR windings.  Thus, rotor magnetic field is transformed into Alternating Current electricity in the non-moving stator windings.  Certain small diodes on the diode board change the A.C. electricity into Direct Current electricity, which is then applied to the same input side of the voltage regulator that the GEN lamp feeds.   When enough rpm is reached to have approximately +12 volts at that point, the lamp extinguishes, as it has approximately +12 volts on one side of the lamp (from the battery), & approximately same +12 volts on the other side of the lamp, & thus no voltage difference across the lamp.   These small diodes, as rpm increases, produce a considerably larger current than the lamp could supply to the regulator.  That larger current is needed to fully power the rotor.  Thus, the system can be thought of as a merry-go-round, supplying itself....once initiated by the battery-fed lamp current, & enough rpm to produce enough current from the small diodes.   If you think about it, the system converts mechanical movement into usable electricity.

There are six large high power diodes mounted on the diode board.  They connect to the stator main output windings, the same as do the above smaller diodes.  As the rpm rises just a bit more than for lamp-extinguishing, these large six diodes will begin to pass a fair amount of current, but their output connection is directly to the battery.  These 6 large diodes consist of 3 positive & 3 negative as far as the internals of the diodes are concerned.  More on those 6 diodes in the next paragraph.

The diode board connections (via printed copper 'wires') have 3 of those large diodes connected to the chassis (negative side of battery).  The other 3 large diodes connect to the battery + terminal output of the diode board. The + charging output of the diode board is the large spade terminal on the right side of the board as you face it from the front of the motorcycle.  That connection-wire is NOT FUSED.  The normally extremely high reverse voltage resistance of the diodes prevents the battery from discharging back into the alternator when the engine is not running (key on or off).   The same system is used in most cars & trucks.  There actually is a TEENSY bit of "leakage current" (usually under a milliampere or so).  IF a diode fails such as 'leaking' lots more current, the battery CAN discharge, over time, from that.  Leakage current can be measured at that same + output terminal of the board, by putting a current-reading meter in SERIES between the mentioned terminal and the red to-battery wire that you pulled off it.  You could also have put such a meter into the battery negative wire circuit at the battery, and then checked the meter with the + wire ONTO that diode board terminal, or, pulled off of it....and compared readings.  However that method will include any other current flow from the system, including a clock, etc.  Either testing method can be used; but best to do it at the diode board connection.

The voltage regulator (VR) has an internal voltage reference called a Zener diode.  The regulator receives the output of the SMALL diodes as previously described, and compares that to the VR internal reference zener diode (mechanical regulator does this with spring and solenoid coil which then operate the points).  When the alternator output voltage rises higher than the design voltage, the voltage regulator reduces the current flow into the rotor, which reduces the stator output.  The VR is NOT a shunt type, that is, the alternator output is not shunted to ground, thus the regulation method is of high efficiency.

The mechanical regulator regulates by separating two contacts in the regulator to reduce the charging.  Separation of those contacts occurs as voltage rises enough & thus increases the mechanical relay's magnetic field in its coil enough to cause the contacts to open, which turns the rotor current OFF. The contacts close again at ~ the regulation set voltage.  This on/off of the contacts tends to happen fairly fast.  While maintaining the voltage the regulator was set for, the VR must turn on and off rapidly, once the battery voltage reaches the desired set voltage, to maintain the voltage within a narrow range. The VR points spark gently during this actual oscillating voltage regulation.  This produces some electrical noise into the well as deteriorating the regulator's points, although slowly.   The later low ohms rotors are really a bit much for the mechanical regulator (which was not used after the 1970's), as the rotor could draw more current than the mechanical regulator points were designed for.  The VR can be serviced, article on this website.


The electrical system in any of the Airheads is adequate and reliable, particularly adequate if you keep the rpm above 3000, and if the system is in good condition.   Those with much higher system needs; such as having larger wattage headlights, driving lights, heated clothing, heated grips...ETC., may need to make allowances for those things.  You may OR MAY NOT need a larger output alternator.   The /5  180 watt system is adequate for the later 55/60 watt headlight (original was 40/45 watts) & maybe a few smaller lights...AND a 50 watt heated vest....but this is the limit for practical purposes.  It is quite marginal with extra electrical needs if you do considerable in-city stop and go traffic.   Ask on the Airheads LIST; and, read the various articles on this website; particularly the article that compares the Bosch alternator output with the aftermarket alternators.

Poor charging:

Poor charging can come about from quite a few reasons.  Sometimes more than one reason at the same time, which makes finding the problem(s) more involved. 

One of the first things to do is to make sure that any and all connections, including the big battery wires are clean, tight, no strands of wire are broken.  When you have the front cover of the engine removed (ALWAYS disconnect the battery negative leads before trying to remove the cover), you can eyeball the stator connections, those push-on connections need to fit tightly.  You can check at the RIGHT larger spade terminal of the diode board (as you face the alternator from in front of the engine) to be sure the fairly large red wire and its female connector are tight, not burned, & that the stranded wires into that connector are intact and properly secuely crimped into the connector...wiggle to make sure.   Be sure that under the starter motor cover that the connections to the starter solenoid switch are all tight.  Be sure that the red wires at the starter relay (located along the motorcycle backbone tube, under the fuel tank) are tight.  If you have a plug-in starter relay, UNplug it, then clean the male and female connectors as best you can, then re-plug-in the relay.
It is important that the battery be good, and that there is no hidden corrosion up inside the large diameter cable that fastens (tightly!) to the batter + terminal.  The best test for the battery is by an instrument called a load tester.  You could also just charge the battery fully, then try to crank the engine for 10 seconds or so, without starting the engine, and monitoring the battery terminals (NOT the connections) with a digital voltmeter.  This is not as good as a formal load testing, but is usually adequate.  With the float bowls empty, & gas off (or, ignition PRIMARY connections DISconnected), the engine will not start, which is what you want for a load test.  Do not remove the spark want engine compression to make the starter motor work reasonably hard for this test.

What fails?  Anything and everything has failed at one time or the other.

Many problems show up by the GEN lamp lighting up at the wrong time, or not lighting up, or it has irregular illumination.   Because this is so widespread, I have made an entire section here for GEN LAMP PROBLEMS.

Gen lamp burnout failures are rare.  The lamp is necessary in the stock system to initiate charging.  There is a simple  modification that allows the system to start up even if the lamp fails (also makes a very slight improvement on rpm at which charging begins); it is in this website as article #19:  A GEN lamp that does not light up, & thus you have no charging (or, maybe only at VERY high rpm), is usually a bad lamp, a bad lamp socket, a bad regulator, or more commonly an open rotor or excessively worn brushes.  Rotors can fail at cruising & higher rpm, yet be OK at lower rpm, and the reverse!  GEN lamps can be off, bright, dim, irregular, etc. crazy things, at different RPM, when there is a problem.  Normally, the GEN lamp extinguishes at not very far above idle RPM.

Troubleshooting a dead (not lighted) GEN lamp:   The problem may not be a bad lamp. The GEN lamp SELDOM burns out.   Sometimes there is a crack in the socket area where the lamp fits.  A bad connection for the lamp can include at the lamp base, the pod plug connection, or inside the external pod plug itself.  More often the rotor has opened electrically; or a brush, or both brushes, is very badly worn. Worn brushes frequently cause problems, but usually the lamp is then intermittent, especially with rotor RPM.  The reason rotor RPM is involved is that there is always some slip ring runout, which varies with typically one brush, worn more than the other, gets intermittent in its contact with the slip ring.

Here are some simple tests:  Turn on Ignition....GEN lamp should still NOT be lighted. For a /6 or later motorcycle, wiggle, a bit, the umbilical cord that goes into the back of the instrument pod.  If the GEN lamp lights up, the problem is in the plug, or, the mating male parts in the pod.  Assuming the lamp still does NOT light up:  Turn off the ignition. Disconnect battery (removing all the wires to the negative post will do). Remove front-of-engine metal cover. Reconnect battery. Turn on ignition.  GEN lamp should be the same as before: NOT be lighted.

Connect a jumper wire from the brush holder Df terminal to the case.  You can also use a screwdriver to do the jumpering. If the lamp now lights-up, then the problem is in the rotor, brushes or brush wires.  To determine which, remove the jumper wire or screwdriver.   Use a copper penny or a screwdriver, etc., and short the two slip rings careful that you only connect one slip ring to the other, and are not touching the case meta. If the lamp lights up the ROTOR IS OPEN AND BAD.

Assuming the lamp does NOT light up, from any of those above things you tried:  You have a bad voltage regulator, or bad wiring or connections in the lamp circuit.

How to determine if the voltage regulator is bad:
Turn off the ignition. Remove the fuel tank. Be sure the D- and Df connections at the brushes assembly IS REconnected. UNplug the voltage regulator.  It has a three female connection plug. You may have to press at a side-clip to allow the harness plug to be removed.  Turn on the ignition.   Ground the solid BLUE female connection wire in the voltage regulator's harness socket.  To 'ground' means to connect a wire from the socket having the blue wire, to any shiny metal place...the cylinder fins are a good place.  If the lamp does NOT light up, the wiring from the VR to the pod or its large rear plug, or internal wiring or lamp or lamp connection in the pod is at fault.

Assuming the lamp DOES light up: 
Remove the grounding wire you just added.  Jumper the OPPOSING female connections in the plug.  Usually this is blue/black and blue. DO NOT  jumper to the brown wire. If the light now shines, you have a bad regulator.  If you would like to test the system maximum possible output, you can leave that jumpering in the plug, and start the engine and monitor the battery voltage as you raise RPM.

Do NOT forget to disconnect the battery before replacing the front cover.

Troubleshooting a constantly on GEN lamp: If, when your ignition key is ON & the GEN lamp goes ON brightly, but it usually never goes out or only fades a bit when the engine is revv'd up, it usually indicates NO charging, or very little charging.  A number of things can cause this, & there are various approaches to figuring out the problem. While you can use a test lamp, if you know how, to analyze things use of a multimeter is probably easier, and you need to know how to use one.  Read my article on them: article covers both multimeters AND test lamps usage.
You can obtain a digital multimeter for FREE from Harbor Freight Company...they often give out quite adequate and accurate ones for FREE, upon ANY sale.  Otherwise, they sell them for a variety of prices, depending on a lot of factors, almost always the price is LOW.

1.  The brushes may be well-worn.  Usually when the brushes are quite worn, one of the brushes will wear faster than the other, sometimes considerably, sometimes not eyeball visible.  The snail spring on the brush usually can be seen to be "bottoming" on the white plastic brush holder.  You can put a tiny piece of paper or other insulating item under the tip of the spring, which will allow the spring to press on the brush & not the plastic holder, until you can get around to installing new brushes.  Brushes do not fail suddenly (unless its flexible wire breaks...which is rather rare).  Rather, brushes get short enough that they make INTERMITTENT contact with the rotor slip rings; usually that is RPM sensitive.

2.  Something in the diode board has failed.  Bad connection, bad diode(s).  This is not all that common, but happens.  SOMETIMES the problem is caused by the owner removing the front cover, before FIRST disconnecting the battery!....and thereby shorts the diode board in the cover removal operation.  Now and then a diode board is fried by someone trying to save a few $$, and installs a wrong type of battery (reversed polarity terminals).  SOMETIMES the motorcycle is one with the diode board RUBBER MOUNTS, with mounts failures and shorting.  Rubber mounts are abominable for SEVERAL reasons: replace them with METAL mounts.

3.  The voltage regulator has failed.  To test for that, either install another one; or, UNPLUG the VR, & in the PLUG, connect a paper clip or other item, between the opposing female connections.  DO NOT connect to the solid BROWN wire! If the charging is now good, and voltage keeps rising with increased RPM (do NOT let it go over ~14.6 or so), then the VR is almost for sure bad.

4.  The rotor has OPENED (open connection internally in the rotor).  This is VERY common.  Here are two additional tests (see earlier) to test for a bad rotor, and to eliminate that the brushes might be the problem.  Put a piece of paper under each brush. Use an ohmmeter between the slip rings, should be very low resistance, a few ohms.  As a second check, use the ohmmeter between either brush and the chassis.  If you get a low resistance reading, the rotor is shorted to its steel structure.

5.  You replaced brushes;  now you get constantly on GEN lamp, was OK before the brush replacement.  You probably took the brush holder apart, misplaced the correct order & installation of the insulating washers in the Df brushholder section.  Testing with an ohmmeter, D- and Df wires OFF, & paper under the brushes so they do not contact the slip rings of the rotor, are a quick method of determining things.  ONLY the D- connection may be grounded.

6.  You have mixed up the two wires going to D- and Df of the brushholder.  The BROWN wire goes to the D- spade.  Also see #5, above.

7.  It is very rare for a stator to be bad.  Usually that happens, if rarely, when someone removes the stator, IMPROPERLY using metal tools, and damages some of the wound-wires. 

General notes:

Rotor failures are typically due to aging of various types.  Rotors are either discarded for new ones (which may be from BMW, or aftermarket).  Rotors whose windings were unsealed, or sealed with lacquers or shellac, tend to fail due to stresses on the windings during larger RPM changes, typically when downshifting into first gear.  This is particularly so when the rotor is quite hot.  Sometimes a rotor winding will short to another winding, or short to the metal magnetic pole pieces material.  Now and then a rotor solder joint fails.   I have seen TWO 'out of the box' rotors that were bad.  One was a rebuilt, improperly tested, because there was continuity between slip rings and the magnetic metal, amounting to a direct short of Df to ground.  Without measurements, you may not know what rotor you have.  For the most part, rotors are being rewound with the later lower resistances.  These work better than earlier 7 ohm rotors.  It is not a great idea to install a 3.4 or 2.8 ohm rotor into a mechanical voltage regulator bike, without changing to the later electronic regulator in the plastic case; but, it will work for awhile with the mechanical VR.   I suggest you avoid using a 2.8 ohm rotor with early stators; the charging output might be inadequate.   This can be a puzzling thing, in trying to figure out what the problem is from low output.

Stator failures are NOT common; rarely from age failed insulation.   Some failed because owners removing & replacing rotors nicked the stator windings since to replace a rotor you must remove the stator housing.  NOTE that the stator windings are done on multiple thin special varnish insulated sheets of steel generally called laminations. If you scratch across these sheets accidentally by using metal tools, you can have a stator that seems to work fine, but has "somewhat" REDUCED performance from what is called Eddy Currents. 

Rotor failures, diode board and/or rubber mount failures, wiring failures, voltage regulator failures....and ignition switch and kill switch failures....all are seen now and then.   Often found are loose connections at the battery, or starter motor solenoid, or battery ground lead at the speedometer cable hollow bolt (DO NOT over-tighten that one!), or starter relay connections (or, internal in that relay).  More on that relay in the next section after the horizontal line.

Failure to disconnect the battery before removing the outer cover of the timing chest, has caused electric sparks & failures of the diode board.  Also be careful when removing the starter cover. 

Failure of the voltage regulator is usually indicated by poor or no charging or wrong voltage.  VR failure is hardly the only failure to exhibit these problems.  TESTING:  You can easily bypass the VR, using a jumper across the opposing plug connections (NO connection is made to the BROWN wire!).  That will produce maximum output from the alternator, do not let the voltage get too high.

Occasionally a VR will fail in the Full Maximum Output condition; system voltage will be very excessive. 99% of the time the VR is at fault. Substitute a good VR.     

Failure of the diode board is usually indicated by lower charging (lower watts) capability, or MUCH lower voltage output under load of such as the headlight (check battery voltage at ~4000 rpm with headlight on, and off).   Just ONE "open" large diode will so indicate by vastly lowered charging with the headlight turned on, yet charging may be OK, headlight OFF.

Problems with the small diodes rarely occur, and can usually be seen by poor charging or 'funny' GEN lamp indications.  

Almost anything that goes wrong with the charging system components can result in lower voltage, or low or no charging.   Overheated, loose, or slightly dirty or corroded connections ARE COMMON.   GEN lamps that can be seen glowing dimly at night while cruising are usually an indication of poor connections someplace, or several places.  I usually see such a glowing lamp at night and my first assumption is that electrical wiring has never been cleaned or checked for tightness of connections, etc.

After the /5 the flexible printed circuit board that the GEN lamp fit into can get microscopic cracks, and the lamp connection to the board can fail.  You can carefully repair the board....or replace it (IF you can find a replacement! ones NLA from BMW).  Do NOT yank lamps out on the printed material with a fingertip, rock the lamp out carefully.

Starter relay:
(The one under the fuel tank, NOT the big solenoid relay at the starter motor)

You are probably asking yourself: HUH?...why talk about the starter relay?...this is an article about troubleshooting problems with the alternator (and charging system)!  Some problems with the starter relay cause a complaint of an electrically dead motorcycle....yet the battery is charged.

The reason for the small starter relay causing problems (total lack of system power is common complaint) is that all the power in the motorcycle (except for the starter power itself, which will NOT energize with this relay problem) travels through an INternal jumper connection INSIDE that relay (from 1976).  While the rare internal connection has failed, often annoyingly an intermittent failure because of a loose internal rivet or some such, MORE often the problem is one or two poor connections AT the SPADE CONNECTORS at that relay and its socket.  Early models were screw terminals, and the relay was terminals end UP, and water (or brake fluid from a leaky under-tank master cylinder) would make a mess inside that relay.  When the jumpering or corroded (even slightly) connections (or internal corrosion) at this relay are at fault, you may have a completely dead (electrically) motorcycle. UNPLUG and re-plug in the relay, wiping the connections; on the screw type, remove the guts and inspect. 

From 1976, most Airheads have a major connection of the battery to the electrical system located at the starter relay under the fuel tank.   The red wires are, essentially, ALL connected together via the relay INTERNALS.  On the metal can starter relays you can often carefully UNcrimp the edges and fix the internals....but that is a rarer fault than simply corrosion (of the male spades of the relay and the femaled socket connectors).  If the problem is internal to the relay, fix it, and I recommend you SEAL the top after re-crimping it. There have been instances of a slightly loose rivet in this relay causing problems.   The problem can be as slight as just a small voltage drop, or as major as a total complete lack of electrical power.    Total loss of electric power is because the INTERNALS of the relay, even if the relay is NOT being actuated for the starter motor, has a 'jumper function'.   If the battery has reasonable voltage on it (over 12.3) WHILE the lights are turned-on (but they do not light), you may have a relay plug/socket problem, or problem inside the relay. Probing with a voltmeter will tell you if power is at all red wires at the starter relay, or not.   This same symptom  can occur (of course!) if the large + and - battery wires, which bolt to the battery (and the - one to the speedometer cable hollow bolt) are faulty, perhaps eaten away by battery acid (happens; at + connection), etc.  The starter relay has some RED wires going to it.  These wires pass 100% of the bike's electrical power (except the much larger wire at the + battery terminal that goes directly to the starter motor).   These larger red wires at the starter relay go to different starter relay connections.   A temporary (?) & QUICK fix, if the external spade connections are the problem, is to UNplug the relay & plug it back in.  That wipes the spades. That almost always works, might even last.  It is helpful to use tiny tools and try to clean the female connection in the plug, and to lightly abrade the relay's male spades, before reinstalling.  You can use silicone dielectric grease or even Vaseline on these during re-plugging-in; it helps protect against environmental things that caused the original corrosion.  If the corrosion is very visible and nasty you will have to install new female connections. There is a modification that can help. Used with relatively brightly cleaned male and female spade connections, this will likely be a 100% permanent FIX!  First, on all three RED wires, determine a place near the plug socket where you can CAREFULLY remove ~3/4" of the red insulation from the wires adjacent to each other.  I suggest you use a very sharp thin blade on a very flat angle. I use a hobbyists Xacto knife.  DO NOT nick/cut any copper strands.  Tightly wrap some shiny copper wire around the insulation-less area.  I usually use soldering braid or de-soldering braid to join the wires, but a wrap of common lamp cord (insulation removed! and the wires look shiny, not corroded from age) will do.   Solder the wrapped connection using 60-40 common electronics solder (the type with a rosin core). Be SURE to use a large mass type of soldering tip on your soldering iron.  A high power soldering gun also works nicely.  I've even used a propane torch soldering tip (BUT,  you must carefully avoid side-flame damage).  Do a clean & neat job.  INSULATE the result with electrical tape or self-sealing tape.  

There are NO problems caused by this external jumpering, if done neatly.   

Charging system failures; further discussion:
If something fails, what are the USUAL indications?  How to determine what is going on:

1. Batteries:  A battery failure can cause an enormous amount of problems & indications.   Batteries lose capacity over time.  That in itself is usually not a problem, as we normally do not operate many hours of accessories with the engine off.  Of course, if severely enough discharged, the starter motor will not have sufficient current to rotate the engine properly.   Another type of failure is a full separation....or part separation...of a connection inside the battery.  The battery will act as if there is a resistance inserted in series, & may even charge up to the correct voltage at the battery terminals, yet be unable to properly crank the engine.  This is easily seen by measuring the battery terminal voltage ignition off.  Then, ignition and lights on, & re-measure the battery terminal voltage when attempting to crank the engine.   The starter may not crank at all, or you will hear just a simple clunk. Usually the voltage drops off a huge amount.  You can also use a formal Load Tester on the battery for confirmation, after trying to fully charge the battery.  In some instances, once the engine IS started and run, the battery MAY seem to act OK....until the next cold startup. It is somewhat rare, but I have seen batteries that were temperature sensitive, regarding the opening & closing of an internal connection.   

Another common failure mode is a shorted cell, usually only one fully shorts, but, it can be partial for one or more cells.  The battery MAY never charge up to proper voltage, and if this is seen when using an EXternal charger with a voltmeter attached, the battery can be considered worthless, and must be replaced.  IF partial, the battery might charge up to the correct voltage, yet after standing a half hour or hour, have its 'open terminal' voltage fall towards 12, rather than maybe 12.5 to 12.7.  Falling from 12.6 or so, to closer to 12, is also seen when the headlight is turned-on, perhaps quickly after what seems like a full charging.  That battery should be discarded too. There are dynamic battery testers at most repair shops, that can USUALLY determine if a battery has the proper cranking power...and LIFE left.   These are usually called Battery Load Testers.  You can get your own at a quite reasonable price from Harbor Freight Company.   I test all my vehicles' batteries once or twice a year, and, yes, with a Harbor Freight Company Load tester. I suggest you purchase the slightly more expensive version (they sell TWO types); which has TWO METERS. It is much more versatile and works great.  It is on sale now and then, and you may be lucky & combine it with a 20% off coupon!    Really worth the $50-$80 you will pay. A load test at about 90 amperes on the 28 or 30 AH batteries (and 70 on the smaller batteries), while watching the battery voltage, is about correct for the Airhead batteries.  The load test is done by reading the voltage accurately at ~15 seconds of loading time.   That is done AUTOMATICALLY by the HF 2-meter model.  That HF unit is ADJUSTABLE to match battery capacity size!  There is a chart available for the lower voltage limit, versus temperature....and the load tester comes with the chart.  

It is possible for bad starter motor to 'pull' or 'draw' so much current from the battery, that the battery appears faulty.  While any well-used/worn starter motor can exhibit this problem from use, it was especially egregious on early Valeo starters (which were installed by BMW instead of the Bosch starters, in the later eighties) in which the permanent magent pole pieces, which were glued in place, came loose and mechanically locked up the starter.  The Bosch starters are better designed & constructed; the Bosch are easily re-buildable anyplace...they are nearly 100% interchangeable, but the Bosch needs the forward end support plate, and the early versions were 8 teeth, later versions 9 teeth, to match a change in flywheels...and you MUST use the correct number of teeth version (for ANY starter motor).    Late model Valeo starters are OK, and draw less current than the Bosch, provide MORE cranking power too. has them reasonably priced....see my references page: There are also other sources for starters. is my recommendation.  No matter what starter you install, be sure it has the proper 8 or 9 tooth drive gear.  Be sure to read my article on installation (even if the SAME type starter you are replacing), as there has been some slight metal interference problems, EASILY fixed. The following article covers the various starters, including  aftermarket ones like the Valeo & Denso and the fitting problems:

2.  Diode board, rubber mounts, brush-holders, etc:   On those models with rubber diode board mounts, the mounts will eventually deteriorate, allowing the diode board to fall downward & cause shorting or other problems.  In MY OPINION ALL rubber mounted diode board models should have the diode board mounts changed to all-metal. Not only is reliability improved, but grounding, output, & voltage regulation is improved too!   There is some evidence that the diode boards stay a bit cooler and are more reliable.  Rubber mounts are a BAD IDEA!   Diode board failures can cause everything from low to NO charging.  

The Airheads that already should have the solid metal diode board mounts cast into the timing chest (check your bike, no matter the model, as I have seen anomalies) are: /5 models; /6 models; 1978-1987 R65 and R80 models.

NOTE that the RS and RT models are particularly prone to diode board problems...PLEASE do your bike a favor; install these cheap diode board solid mounts.   Available from Euromotoelectrics; Motorrad Electrik; & Thunderchild.  It is a good idea to add openings/louvres in the front lower plastic cover that is in front of the engine, on ANY models using it.  Early ones had no louvres; later ones did; that improved cooling air to the outer timing chest (where the alternator is located).

NOTE:  Oak Okleshen published an extensive article on testing the diode board using a transformer and lamp, in the Club publication, AIRMAIL.  June 1999 was a most comprehensive article, but there are many others.  Buy the Airtech Index from Oak:

Information on testing using the transformer and lamp method is also on this website, but see the next paragraph...

Diodes are usually tested (disconnect the bike battery first!!!) by using an ohmmeter, first with the leads in one direction, & then reversing the ohmmeter leads, so that forward conducting resistance is measured (ohmmeters have batteries and pass a small current through the probes) in one direction, and hopefully extremely high resistance in the other (NON-conductive) direction.  A better test is with the diode board OUT OF THE BIKE using a 6 or 12 volt brake or turn signal light bulb and a 5 to 15 volt AC transformer.  This is an especially VERY good test, and HIGHLY recommended.  A series circuit is used.  Shorting the leads gives full lamp brightness.  Connecting across a diode gives roughly half-brightness.
Anything else and the diode is faulty. I've conveniently made testers using an old desk high intensity lamp and its transformer.   Both tests, ohmmeter and lamp/transformer; are a good idea.   Many multi-meters now incorporate a Diode Test function.  The function typically reads the forward voltage drop of the diode, with a small current applied.  It is roughly as good as the ohmmeter test (properly interpreted).  The AC transformer and lamp test is MUCH better than either the ohmmeter and/or diode function test on multimeters.  You CAN use an ohmmeter on the diode board fully installed and connected...but, you MUST disconnect the battery first.

Once in awhile I hear of someone installing solid mounts; or, for some other reason, they have had the diode board out of the bike, & when replaced, there is no charging.  They have probably miss-wired at the rear of the diode board. 

No charging, and a bright GEN lamp, can come from improperly re-assembling the rotor connections' white-colored brush connection block....the insulating washers must be properly assembled at the Df terminal.

NOTE:  Over the years there have been various problems with diode boards, grounding, the rubber mounts, etc.  Read the article on the diode boards and grounding wires:

Read the other electrical articles on this website....#14, #15, #15-A, 17, 18, etc. 

3.  Voltage Regulator:  Usually a failure here means an opening of the series pass transistor (electronic versions of the regulator) and no output/charging.  Rarely the internal regulator series pass transistor short-circuits, or there is some other electronics failure...and the indication is vastly too high charging voltage at higher rpm. 

The mechanical regulators usually fail by slowly deteriorating the output voltage.   A failure to charge, in which the regulator is suspected, can be PROVEN, on BOTH the mechanical and electronics regulators, by bypassing the regulator.  This is done with a jumper wire with male spades at each end.  Remove the regulator plug; insert the jumper into the opposing (NOT BROWN WIRE!!!) plug connections.  If the system now charges, replace the VR.   Good sources for voltage regulators (get the adjustable type!!):

NOTE:  a somewhat rare condition, that can drive you nuts, is when the ground wire (brown) from the voltage regulator is OPEN, either from a faulty wire or connection; OR, from corrosion or other problem with the three pin plug at the VR.   An open ground connection will generally result in a WAY high charging voltage....upwards of 20 volts is possible, depending on the condition of the battery.

4.  Stators:   Stators seldom fail unless abused.   Abuse is usually nicking or otherwise injuring the wires during stator/housing removal. Nicking/scratching across the steel laminations can reduce output.   Due to the low resistance windings, common non-lab versions of ohmmeters tests on the three phases themselves are not usually or always indicative.  HOWEVER:  There must be no continuity to ground from any stator terminal (stator disconnected from anything else, including, of course, the diode board).   There is a difference in the resistance of the windings after 1990, but this is mostly a point of nerdy discussion, unless you are trying to use an earlier higher resistance rotor with it, or the reverse.....both of which are where charging can be poor.    Stator failure means low output/charging.  The group of three connection wires to the one area of the stator can be in any order.   Some models have a molded plug for these three wires.   Typically, a large failure involves a shorted turn or a grounded stator.  The shorted-turn failure can be very tricky to analyze, because while an openly visible shorted turn can usually be seen, typically from those using screwdrivers to pry the stator from the engine when changing brushes, etc,... the resistance measurement may not show any difference between phases, on common ohmmeters.  Some types of tests used would be Ohmmeter tests; A.C. connection to a transformer and then read voltages or use an oscilloscope; A.C. ammeter tests, and several other types of tests. For MOST, these sophisticated tests are not likely to be possible; nor, understood.  I will list some tests, just below, that mostly can be done by YOU:

All these tests can be done with the system on the bike, with the phases (& centertap, but none on stock /5) wires disconnected from the harnesses to the stator (simply pull off the stator spade lugs):

a. Ohmmeter tests, between phases, & to ground.  Short the ohmmeter leads together solidly, subtract the meter indication from the readings you get from connecting the ohmmeter test leads solidly to every combination of the three output spades of the stator.  The stators are typically 0.62 ohms per phase connection.  If you test the centertap terminal, the values between that center tap & any of the three main phases will be ~HALF the phase to phase value.  The resistances are hard to read accurately, & hence only gross changes or differences may mean anything.

b. With Df harness wire disconnected & D- grounded & Df terminal connected to battery +; measure phases with an A.C. Voltmeter, at ~2000 rpm.  The voltage should be about the same between any connection type of the three terminals stator output group at the SAME rpm.

c. Repeat b. but with A.C. Ammeter....properly connected!  Few of you have an A.C. ammeter, so this test is seldom done by anyone.

d.  Use the series lamp and transformer tester you made for testing diodes.  Apply to one phase, see how the lamp lights, or doesn't, and also test to the case (no illumination), and when onto one phase, check all phase connections for equal A.C. voltage.

e. The tests can also be run with a common old-fashioned sealed-beam headlight, for equality in brightness, instead of using meters.  Simply use jumper wires and connect the lamp across any two phase connections. Don't raise the rpm too high. Test all combinations of phase connections. 

f.  For /6 and later types:  disconnect the 3 phases & center-tap connections (pull off the connectors). GROUND the centertap.  Use a test light on each of the three stator terminals, the other end of the test lamp to chassis. Use somewhat more than idle rpm. All should light up the same.    For the /5 alternator stator which has no centertap terminal, you ground nothing, just check with the lamp between all combinations of the three stator outputs.   A shorted turn makes a rather gross difference in output from a phase.

5.  Rotors:   Rotors rather commonly fail, they rotate fast & have large inertial and centripetal forces on the windings when up and down shifting as rpm change can be abrupt.  I have theorized that some types of clutch and shifting of gears can cause very high reversing forces on the rotors, particularly susceptible will be the old non-epoxy impregnated ones. Rotors are in an area that gets quite hot, and the current flowing into the rotor plus the transformation of the magnetic field adds more heat....and thus there are heat-cycling effects.  Same can be said for the diode board, which is susceptible over the long term to this type of heat cycling effect.   In the rotor, its wires are soldered to the slip rings. Solder joints can fail.   Original rotors were sealed with a type of varnish, and are not as good as later rotors that might have been sealed and protected with high temperature epoxy (hopefully by vacuum impregnation).  Non-impregnated wires can move about from vibration and centripetal forces and be damaged.  Rotors usually fail by OPEN circuit, and a simple ohmmeter test across the slip rings will identify that.  A rotor can work (or sort-of) at low or high rpm, and then not at another rpm.  GEN lamp indications can be erratic with rpm too, signifying an opening and closing of the rotor internal connections. It is possible to use an ohmmeter on a rotor with the engine running over a range of rpm, with the rotor D- and Df connections disconnected, but there can be meter complications, so I suggest you NOT do that.

Once in a while a rotor will short circuit, and this may or may not be such that an ohmmeter can show a short.  Another form of rotor shorting is slightly different:  one wire on many (not all) rotors passes through the rotor steel core through a small hole, a place for short circuits if the rotor is not very carefully assembled. The ohmmeter WILL then show a short to the rotor steel frame.  To properly test for this whilst the rotor is in place on the motorcycle, you must slide a piece of paper under both brushes. I have seen rewound rotors improperly tested before sale, that were shorted to the steel of the rotor.  Some rotors are being made with the wire NOT going through a hole.

Rotors are easy to remove, but you MUST use a hardened factory, or HARDENED home-made or aftermarket tool.  SOME home-made tools are NOT safe to use.  I suggest purchase of the factory one piece tool OR an aftermarket ONE PIECE tool.  If you want to make the tool, DO NOT USE A COMMON SOFT BOLT.  8.8 is the minimum specification!!   Under NO circumstances should you use a common automotive 'legs' type of remover tool, nor a NON-hardened bolt!!!

The BMW-sold tool is 88-88-6-123-600.  You can get an equivalent tool from aftermarket suppliers. They are NOT expensive.  You can make a tool from 8.8 bolts and a roller bearing....ask on the Airheads LIST.  I am NOT in favor of this two-piece tool method....due to the possibility of wrong use, INCLUDING canting of the inner part, causing you HUGE problems.

If you do NOT use a hardened tool & in some instances if you use the home-made 2-piece type as shown in the photo..... you may BEND the tool inside of the rotor, & now you are in SERiOUSLY DEEP trouble. 


       Aftermarket rotors have been seen with different threads than the stock Bosch rotors have.  For those aftermarket rotors, be sure to use the maker/suppliers tools for removal, which MAY LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THE TWO-PIECE TOOLS (SHOWN BELOW AS NOT APPROVED for the stock Bosch).










RARE situation, a reverse magnetized rotor:
This can drive you crazy!

If you get no output from the have checked the diode board, checked for proper & functional connections, checked the function of the GEN lamp, checked the stator, checked the rotor resistance (& for resistance to ground from either slip ring), could have an instance of a pre-magnetized (pre-polarized, reverse polarized) rotor.  This very rare situation typically happens with a replacement rotor. The residual magnetic field in the rotor metal is not overcome by the very weak current from the GEN lamp.   

NOTE that the D- terminal is the same as engine case ground, and that the Df terminal is insulated from the case; the D- terminal is the one that should have the SOLID BROWN WIRE. The D- terminal must be grounded. Wrongly assembled brush assembly insulating washers, and then reversing the two wires connecting to the brush assembly spades from the engine harness means YOU could possibly have caused the problem. OTHERWISE....
Just how the rotor might become magnetized in the first place in the wrong direction, is a matter for speculation. Since the D- brush connection is always grounded (one hopes), it is unlikely to have a rotor wrongly magnetized from reversing the two connections, to D- and Df.  Wrong magnetization could come from rotor TESTING, if DC current was used. It is possible that some rotors are more susceptible, due to the structure and materials.

The fix:   Unplug the connectors going to the brush holder D- & Df terminals.    Do an ohmmeter check of the D- terminal to the case, it should be ~zero (after subtracting the meter leads if they are shorted together).  If not, then plug in the D- wire and recheck.  If then near zero, I suggest either fixing the insulating washers situation at the brush holder, or, just as good and less work, fashion a very short wire to go from the D- screw terminal to the nearest case screw.  This is better than depending on the brown wire to be grounded in the VR.

Read the resistance of the rotor AT the slip should be as expected, under 5 ohms (/5 has 7 ohm rotor).  Read the resistance between D- and Df. It should be the same as the slip rings resistance PLUS a modest fraction of one ohm, to account for the two carbon brushes.  As a final measurement, slide a piece of paper under the brushes so the brushes do not contact the slip rings. Measure AT either slip ring TO THE CHASSIS/ should be in the millions of ohms, if anything is shown on the meter.  NO SHORTS or near shorts.

Remove those pieces of paper.  Recheck that D- to Df still shows under 5 ohms (under 8 ohms for the /5).

With the Df connector NOT CONNECTED
, but D- connector grounded again, connect a piece of wire (any jumper wire from 14 to 22 gauge will work OK) from battery +, momentarily to the Df brush holder terminal.  DO NOT touch the D- terminal, nor ground, with this jumper wire.  The battery must be connected to the frame and engine, so if you disconnected the battery before removing the front aluminum cover, reconnect it for this.  Connect the wire for only a second.  That will properly de-polarize, re-polarize, and magnetize the rotor very faintly, in the correct direction/polarity. 

The stock Bosch rotor used on any of the Airheads, is not designed to work as a residual magnet. It certainly is an electro-magnet, but its design was not specific to keep some sort of residual magnetism in its pole-pieces. The rotor structure is not like a permanent magnet you use to post notes on your steel refrigerator.  It may be that a very tiny residual magnetism is left in the rotor structure, most, I think, do have it, and that is THE reason (if the GEN lamp fails), you can sometimes get the alternator to start producing current, typically only by using a very high rpm.

If it was possible, at reasonable cost, to have the rotor structure be a strong permanent magnet (or, bonded to it would be a separate circular doughnut magnet) which could be enhanced during rotation by the stock method (described later herein), Bosch might have done that, ....I do not know. High performance magnetic materials HAVE been available for some time now, at considerable cost (China is purchasing as many rare earth mines as it can, rare earths are needed), but the original rotor was never re-designed FOR THAT as there was no specific need. I have thought that such an upgraded structure might produce usable current from the otherwise-stock alternator system at a much lower RPM than the stock one does. THAT would be nice for commuters, that is, city riding, stop and go folks. NO proof, and to my knowledge, no one has produced such a rotor for the Bosch system.

Certainly, 100% permanent magnet type rotors (NO rotor windings) for alternators have been used for many decades. There is an aftermarket permanent magnet alternator for the Airheads, the original EnDuraLast; it produces a fair amount of current at low rpm. A description of its performance, & for the original Omega, versus the stock Bosch, is in an article on this website.

I do NOT know any specifics on the stock Bosch rotor steel, nor for any aftermarket-made rotors. The magnetic properties may be quite different & rotors might vary in residual magnetism. I have never done formal testing to find out, as I was not curious enough.

Back to the stock Bosch:
The alternator requires a rotating magnetic field for charging/output to begin. In the stock system, the INITIALIZING magnetizing current is supplied by the battery, through the ignition switch, through the GEN lamp, and through the VR, then through the rotor. This initializing current is small, with the main current limiting item being the GEN LAMP. The GEN lamp allows only a quite small amount of current to flow through the rotor, which magnetizes the rotor faintly. The rotor has a very low resistance compared to the lamp, particularly when the lamp is lit (lamp resistance rises when lit), so the magnetic field really is miniscule.

When the rotor rpm rises, its rotating magnetic field induces a modest amount of current in the STATOR windings, first very tiny, then a bit more as RPM rises, and if the rpm is enough, and the system needs the electricity, more is produced. That AC current is rectified to DC by the SMALL diodes on the diode board. This DC current is then applied to the Rotor (via the Voltage Regulator), to GREATLY ENHANCE the rotor current that existed (just from the lamp current).

If you are getting the idea that the alternator is SELF-energizing above a modest RPM, you'd be absolutely correct. The rpm for this varies somewhat with system condition and with the model of rotor and stator, but typically is very evident at a few hundred rpm above idle. The point of transition is approximately when the GEN lamp EXtinguishes.

IF the rotor happens to have its quite low residual magnetism in the reversed direction, then the lamp current must overcome that, to cause the proper direction magnetic field. If the lamp current can not overcome it, then there is no output, and the lamp would likely just stay lit. The rotor needs to be magnetized in the correct direction (or, not magnetized in the wrong direction). THAT is what the re-magnetization or de-magnetization procedure I developed, above, does.

6.  Brushes:  Brush failure is common; there is an article on this website about replacing the brushes.

Brushes are a medium-hard conductive carbon material and wear slowly.  When a brush is worn short enough, the snail spring (that presses the brush against the rotor's copper slip ring) will bottom-out on the plastic brush holder, and thus there is no longer any...or only slight...brush pressure against the rotor.  You may have strange indications on the GEN may seem to light up properly, it may not light up properly, it may not light up at all.   It may be rpm sensitive as for when the GEN lamp lights.  If the slip rings show approximately the proper resistance, yet the resistance measurement at the brushes themselves (Df to D-) is not approximately 3/4 of an ohm higher, the brushes are likely not contacting properly; and a physical inspection is needed.  Brushes last ~80,000 +- miles....depending on the dust in the atmosphere, amount of wattage normally used, etc. 

At just the right amount of wear, the very very slight sideways wobble of the rotor and/or very slight non-concentricity of the slip rings themselves, while the engine is running (at some particular rpm usually), will allow the brushes to either contact.....or not contact....causing very irregular GEN lamp and charging.  Be aware of this phenomena. SEE article #17.

NOTE:   It is rare, but happens.  You replace the brushes, and then: zero charging!  You probably removed the brush holder assembly, and failed to reassemble it correctly.  The D- terminal is grounded to the case, the Df is insulated from the case, even though a first glance shows them identical.  You ALSO MIGHT have put the two push-on wires on the wrong terminals.  BROWN is ALWAYS ground (D-, in this instance).  If you reverse the brush terminal connectors, the alternator will not work! Possibly you can injure the VR. You do NOT have to disassemble the brush holder mounting for a brush replacement job.

The brushes rarely have had the flexible wire break, that connects to the holder terminals, sometimes invisibly.   You can pull a SLIGHT bit on the wire, as if to pull the brush out of the holder, slightly, to see if the wire is intact. 

7.  Miscellaneous items:  
a.  If you had the diode board out, & you have no charging, you probably failed to connect one wire at the rear of the diode board!

b.  Key switches may develop intermittent & excessive resistance, which can confuse the voltage regulator operation. 

c.  Kill switch intermittents...or corrosion effects that don't seem to show as an intermittent, can cause a variety of strange problems...including lousy throttle response, & even failure for RPM to rise properly with increasing throttle!  That one has confused experts!

d.  Wires can get pinched. 

e.  A rare short circuit in some /7 & later bikes... at the two-wire connector near the top front of the engine...the blue wire.... may fray and short to the frame. 

f.   Another wire problem may be the blue-black wire from the Df brush holder to the voltage regulator Df terminal.  

g.  If the POSITIVE heat sink of the diode board is grounded (the board has insulators for JUST that top section) from such as wrongly placed wire or failed insulator, etc., then the board output will be shorted to ground. 

h.  The diode board output connects via a heavy red wire that fastens to an oversize spade lug on the right side of the diode board (as you face it from the front) to the battery!!  It is common to see these overheated due to insufficient grip by the female wire connector.  Female spade connectors can be carefully squeezed just a wee bit with a pliers, and thus they will fit much tighter.

i.   Other wire connectors, beside the one above can overheat & therefore have too much resistance.  This is commonly seen at several places:  The alternator stator terminals connectors (the group of three)...AND, the other end of those three wires, behind the diode board. It is usually NOT seen at the center tap of the stator windings (/6 and later).     There is no need for the hard plastic insulating black covers over the leads to be perfect, if yours are cracked & partly missing, which is commonly seen, you need not repair them.

j.  Hairline cracks in the flexible printed circuit board material inside the instrument pod, which, if in the GEN lamp circuit, can cause the GEN lamp to not work, and thus NO charging.  There is an article on this website about modifying the lamp circuit so even if a lamp fails, charging will occur.

k.  Occasionaly there is a problem with the pod CABLE PLUG, or the pod side of it. 

l.  Fuses are generally not used in the charging system, certainly not in the output from the diode board to the battery.  There is one exception, and it is the later /5 model that has fuses in the headlight shell, and some /6 models.  On these, one of the fuses failing will shut down the GEN lamp.

m.   /5 Front METAL had poor ventilation.  Using a later cover will improve reliability.

n.  Front Fiberglas covers (RT, RS):  The early versions had NO louvres.  That reduced the cooling to the diode board.  You can replace it with a later type, or, cut into your solid one and make slits in it, or your initials, ETC.


There is information on that page, but there ARE ERRORS.  Please do not use for actual information.   Long ago I had a corrected version of Buchanan's here via link...I removed it, gave up trying to get him to fix his. As of 04/25/2016, my most recent check, errors were STILL not fixed, after MANY YEARS of him knowing about them.  HIS sketch, very similar to the below one, is NOT CORRECT.  

The following sketch came from:  This sketch is similar, but NOT the same as Buchanan's.  I have modified Thunderchild's sketch, just below, with identifications of wire colors, small diodes, and /5 system information.   The only item I have not put into this sketch is the Kill switch, and the later /5 system's fuse in the charge light circuit.  



A very complete book, written by OAK, on the entire electrical system of all the models from somewhat before the /5, to the end of production, is obtainable from the Chicago Airheads Club.  This contains all the schematic diagrams of the entire bike systems, as well as very detailed individual parts and systems drawings, schematics, descriptions and operations, etc.  This book is really a training manual, and does contain some troubleshooting information.  I consider it a must-have item.     See my URL page on this book, and there is a critique of it on this website too!

A smaller book on the airhead charging system, but quite adequate, especially for troubleshooting, with illustrations and practical advice, is available from Motorrad Elektrik.    (256) 442-8886

Final release:  01-03-2004
11-14-2005:  add hyperlink for additional schematic
02/23/2009:  added some clarification to rotors and stators
05/09/2009:  recheck, fix minor typos and clarify a few details.
11/21/2009:  review and update entire article.
08/13/2010:  Review and minor updates, mostly for clarity
01/15/2011:  Add the Thunderchild gif, modify information about buchanan's page.
09/18/2012:  Greatly expand section on testing the stators. Add QR code.  Modify Google code. In entire article add material & update things.
05/13/2013:  Go over article.  No substantive changes, but eliminate some redundancies and add some clarity here and there.
06/15/2013:  Add first section, troubleshooting the dead GEN lamp. Remove language button later, due to problems with some browsers
09/08/2014:  Clarify a few details, clean up for narrower screens.
11/05/2014:  Entire article: Simplify some testing for ease in understanding & speed.  Edit article as needed for clarity.  Update sources, links, etc.
01/18/2015:  Add section on rotor magnetization; which came from a response I did on the Airheads LIST.
07/07/2015:  Add new section on gen lamp always on, clean up some of the rest of the article (more should be done, when I get to it....)
12/27/2015:  Go through entire article.  Clarify many details & add many.   Narrow the article, including adding more left edge justification(s) and increasing font size.  Update meta-codes. Update the alternator sketch so /5 era version is more clearly shown as to details on Y and diodes.
04/25/2016:  Go through entire article. Clarify many details and add more hyperlinks. Update metacodes; fonts, layout, etc. 

Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer

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Last edit of THIS page: Tuesday, April 26, 2016