De-mystifying Boxer
Electrics
(including troubleshooting,
ETC.)
©
boxerelectrics.htm-14A
Theory and Practice
This is NOT a an article that covers every electrical item nor fault with the airhead system.
This IS an article to furnish THREE types of information:
(1) Some BASIC INFORMATION on electricity; and the approach used here is different than in the manuals and troubleshooting guides that you might have, or are contemplating obtaining. Although some hints are given later in this article on some common faults, this article should be used in conjunction with those that address various resistance's of rotors, stators, ignition coils, various connections and fuses, and functions, ETC.
(2) Common problem areas, explanations of some of the circuitry, etc. A fairly in-depth discussion of such as batteries; starter motors, voltage regulators, etc.....a goodly amount of good technical information
(3) An addendum that may discuss some particular point that has come up, or some topic of interest. This is at the very END of this article
**************************************************************************************
Guides such as the ones from Motorrad Elektrik, Chitech, and your Haynes and/or Clymers manuals (and, perhaps, a schematic in the rear of your owners booklet), may well be necessary items for you, and are actually recommended...and if you are anal enough, get them all!
FRANKLY the Chitech electrics manual and the owners book or factory schematic, are THE two BEST sources.
The Chitech (Chicago Region BMW Owners Assoc.) Manual (BMW Electric School Manual) is
THE best manual for BMW electrics, from basics to full-blown technical details,
components, diagrams, etc., and includes the singles and all boxer airheads. It is VERY
complete. Only a few errors are in it, and I have an article I did on those
errors. Here is the link to the Critique of the Chitech BMW Electric School
Manual: chitechelmnl.htm
See my url.htm
page for more information on Chitech, and how to order their publications.
You are encouraged to purchase the Chitech BMW Electric School Manual, as it is a wonderful resource. Its biggest problem, if there is one, is that some of the schematics are not reproduced well.
Much of the following article on basic electricity and its use in the airheads, is rather simplified, no flaming from fellow engineers, please!
Electricity might be easiest to think of as a flow of atomic sized particles called electrons. These little bits have a 'charge'. Get
enough of these little charges (zillions) moving through a wire, and you have a flow of CURRENT. Apply the flow through something like a
lamp, and if enough are flowing, the lamp will heat up, and might even put out light. Too much flow, the lamp burns out, just like a fuse,
which blows for excessive current flow. Current flow is measured in amperes, and in many cases, very tiny parts of an ampere, such as
milliamperes or microamperes. Milli- means thousandth of; and
micro- means millionth of.
It is still popular to use the analogy of water pipes to explain electricity. I find that this often
VERY confusing for people. It is OK to think that water
pressure is the force, like voltage, that ALLOWS more flow from the faucet, at A GIVEN faucet opening. That adjustable opening IS like
resistance (ohms). The rest of the usual story is BAD. I won't get into it herein.
In order to have a CURRENT FLOWING, electron flow must
begin someplace, travel 'through a circuit' AND BE RETURNED
to the source. Please do not think of that idly, many folks have a
problem realizing that a COMPLETE circuit is necessary. Circuit here
means the same thing as a closed racetrack, or some other analogy...you start at
one point, and must continue ALL the way around. A battery may have an excess of electrons at one terminal, compared to the other
terminal, but NO current (other than internal leakage) is flowing. You need to have the device to be powered, a lamp for instance, connected
somehow to BOTH battery terminals, for
electrons to flow THROUGH the device, and the battery too. Again...this idea of a complete circuit often eludes folks, and is just
one place the water pipes analogy fails to make things clear.
When electrons flow through something that allows such a flow (usually metallic), the properties of the CONDUCTOR [usually metallic, often a
'wire'] are such that the conductor itself offers SOME 'resistance' to the flow. A thin wire would offer much more resistance to
a flow
to your starter motor, than a much thicker wire. Resistance is generally undesirable in our
motorcycle wiring, switches, and so on. You can't get away from it,
however. An 'insulator' can generally be thought of as something that has
such a high resistance that electricity in any appreciable amount does not flow
through it.
In electronics, devices such as 'RESISTORS' are used on purpose to restrict electron flow.
In your motorcycle you have resistances in the wires themselves, diodes,
contacts in switches and connectors, relay coils, lamps, ignition coils,
alternator rotor and stator windings...even the carbon brushes (close to 3/4 of
one ohm for both of the brushes together), internal parts
of some things like voltage regulators, ETC. In some instances,
there was resistance between the timing chest and the engine case, due to paint,
and some resistances that caused problems in the rubber diode board mounting
grounds.
In our BMW bikes, the resistance of the GEN lamp has an additional, not usually mentioned purpose, that of restricting the
maximum possible current flow. Another example: Your alternator must have a certain
number of turns of wire, in order to obtain proper VOLTAGE output. If we wanted to reduce the resistance (the unit of measurement is the OHM) of the
fixed physical size alternator to allow more CURRENT output (current times
voltage is WATTS), we need either a lower resistance wire via a larger diameter wire, or a metal
that flows electrons with less resistance. Both of these are impractical. If you are thinking ahead here, you will realize that to
get more WATTS of alternator output, at any given rpm, you need some conflicting changes...heavier wire, which means less turns, so you
need a larger physical alternator...etc. BTW....The only conductor that is better than
copper that could conceivably be considered is silver!
So far I have mentioned amperes, volts, & ohms, and a brief mention above of
WATTS. When current (amperes) is flowing, in a resistance (ohms), due to being forced
through the conductor by pressure (voltage), HEAT is produced. In some cases the heat is desirable or necessary, like in an
incandescent lamp. In other cases the heat is not desirable, possibly a bad thing.
Semiconductor 'things' like diodes and transistors, do NOT like heat. They do not like excessive heat,
and also do not like to be cycled, cold/hot/cold....this cycling tends to bring about failures from molecular sized faults
in the manufacturing process. Sub-microscopic cracks, if you will. In many types of electronics equipment, excessive heat causes the
circuitry to fail, sometimes in intermittent ways. This happens to the ignition module under the tank if it overheats due to lack of
regular replacing of the heat
conducting paste. USUALLY in THAT instance, fresh paste fixes things ..without replacing the $$$
module, but letting it overheat a large number of times may well lead to
permanent failure. Constant heating and
cooling may be responsible for the diode board diodes to fail. That heating is caused by the engine heat itself, as well as the
current flow through the diodes. The diodes have an internal
resistance, and the current flowing through them adds more heat, to the existing
engine heat. That was a problem on some early Wehrle-brand diode boards,
as they did not have the large diodes outer wires bent-over before soldering, so
the soldered small area got hot, the solder melted. That was in the early
1980's. The Bosche boards were always OK.
When current flows, heat, or maybe work, is done...whichever way YOU want to think about it.
Work being done is called WATTS. It just so happens
that there are some very specific, dyed-in-the-wool relationships between amperes, volts, ohms, watts:
volts multiplied by amperes equals watts.
746 watts is one horsepower.
If you divide volts by amperes, you get ohms.
From the above, any value can be obtained from any two known values.
NOTE: A thousand watts is called a KILOWATT, often abbreviated as kw. You may see, at times, engine output rated in Kw. NOW you know how to convert Kw to horsepower!
In the world of electricity, the Greek letter omega is used for
ohms; v for volts (sometimes an E for electromotive force); W for
watts (sometimes P= xxxW). Current itself is usually represented by
the letter I...but....if current is expressed in a value, such as amperes, it
might be written as something like 12 A. 12 ma. would mean twelve
milliamperes, or 12 thousandths of an ampere.
If the flow of electricity is restricted by such as a too thin wire
(like maybe some broken strands...), badly corroded connections,
sulfated battery...etc....then we say that there is 'excessive
resistance'.
Voltage is typically measured by allowing a small amount of the
current to be diverted from a circuit under test, and applying that
diversion to some sort of meter, in such a way as to have a calibrated reading.
SOME meters divert so little current that the voltage is not changed by
attaching the meter. This is usually true for situations where the source
being measured is of low internal resistance, such as almost every area of a
vehicle. This is NOT quite so true of the electronic ignition, which has
some areas you should not even try to measure. The older meters with
actual meter movements...a needle physically moving....usually draw far more
current, but it is still NOT a problem with MOST areas of vehicles.
Resistance in ohms, or kilo-ohms (thousands of ohms) or meg-ohms (millions of
ohms) is typically measured by applying a small voltage to the part
under test by internal meter circuitry in such a way that the current
flow is indicated on the meter, but the meter is calibrated for the effective
resistance in the circuit. That is why ohmmeters contain at least one battery, to produce that small current flow through the part under
test. Some meters contain another battery for higher resistance ranges, and possibly a battery for powering the digital display,
if it is that type. Some devices, such as diodes, are often tested by means of an ohmmeter. An ohmmeter...or diode function test in a
meter, is NOT the only common test on diodes. Common types of simple diodes must pass current in one direction, and not in the other (or,
very very little). If the ohmmeter does not apply enough voltage and also
current to the diode, the diode may well not 'turn on', in the so-called 'forward direction'. This DOES happen on some [usually
expensive] digital meters THAT ON PURPOSE use super-low currents to avoid damaging
extra-sensitive devices that might be connected to the meter. Do not purchase a meter unless it tests diodes adequately. The
readings on a meter that do NOT turn on diodes properly might be so weird as to be
unusable.
The applied voltage to the diode must be at least half a volt for
most common diodes to 'turn on' in one direction. Some types of diodes are
specifically made for some 'strange' functions. A Zener diode is used in your electronics type voltage regulator, and some
tachometers, to regulate a voltage to some set value...or provide a reference for that
type of function. There are diodes used in your CD or DVD player, called laser
diodes. Some forms of those laser diodes are specifically manufactured to be indicators. These emit a
beam of light. Besides the
small and and also quite large diodes in your diode board, you may find, depending on year and model, other diodes in your motorcycle...in the
headlight relay, starter relay, connection board in the headlight shell,
and in the wiring harness near the coils if a R45 or R65.
Diodes, in the forward, turned-on direction, can be thought of as
having an inherent internal resistance. Hence, they can, with enough current flowing, develop a lot of heat. Since the forward drop of a
diode is fixed by atomic properties at roughly 0.5 to 0.6 volt.
Therefore, at 10 amperes that is about 5 or 6 watts of heat to somehow be gotten rid of. AND, there are a fair
number, 6, of those larger power diodes in your diode board! Thus a goodly amount of heat must be cast off, which is done by the L metal
ends of the diode board, to which the power diodes are pressed into. The RUBBER mounted diode boards can NOT throw off this heat
nearly as well to
the timing chest metal, itself already hot from the engine being run, and is just ONE reason I recommend that the rubber mounts be changed to aftermarket metal ones from Motorrad
Elektrik, http://www.motoelekt.com or
Thunderchild, http://www.thunderchild-design.com
Although your motorcycle may have a lamp marked GEN, it is really an ALTernator lamp indicator. GENerator is sort of a
generic term for a source of energy, typically means any mechanical source, but not a
storage battery. When the world was first being electrified by Edison for street lamps and home lamps, current flowed in one
direction, this current was called DC, Direct Current. This was very limiting, as when you had enough homes and factories using electricity, the wires must get larger and larger, as
more and more current must pass in total, and more homes are connected to a pair of wires from the generating plant...and soon the wires are
very unwieldy. It is almost impossible to move lots of electricity if it is DC (direct current), for long distances. That is where Edison
personally failed, from stubbornness, insisting on DC.
The electricity in your home is AC (alternating current). What this
means is that over a portion of time, the power at the wall socket is such that its VOLTAGE is constantly varying, going
up and down, and in fact becomes ZERO as it follows a CURVE that mathematically is called a SINE WAVE. When this 'WAVEFORM' goes from
zero to maximum positive, back down through zero and back to maximum negative, and
then back to zero, that is called 'ONE CYCLE'.
Of course, ONE CYCLE could mean starting at ANY place on that sine curve, and
advancing in TIME until it reaches the same place it started from.
Conventionally one just thinks of it starting and ending at zero. Cycles per
second (cps) gave way many years ago to the term HERTZ (Hz), to honor Mr. Hertz. In your home, the number of Hertz, cycles per second, is
60. This value is kept very accurately by your power company...so accurately that your
electro-mechanical and some other clocks, run
correctly. In many things like TV sets, it is critical that the 60
Hz be proper. In some areas of the world 50 Hz is used.
Alternating current has one HUGE advantage over Direct Current, it can be EASILY
transformed. What this means is that a device called a
transformer, nothing more than a specially designed magnetic steel structure, with some turns of wire on it called a coil, and another
such 'COIL' of more (or less) turns of wire, the two generally being electrically separated;
but magnetically coupled;....can change an input voltage to a lower or higher
voltage. Since we have learned that POWER (watts) is
voltage times amperes, this means that we can TRANSFORM the POWER of a power plant to a super high voltage, many thousands, in fact up to
half a million is in usage, and send that power someplace at a much lower CURRENT (amperes). Remember, the current carrying capacity of a
wire is a primary function of the wire physical size (cross-section actually). Thus, for a given
WATTAGE of power plant, we can use THINNER wire to send the power plant output hundreds if not many
thousands of miles... if the VOLTAGE is high enough. This thinner wire might still be
very thick for large power plants, but it can carry a lot of power at half a million volts, and then that can be TRANSFORMED
downward...usually in steps...first at a local power distribution
center...and then dropped farther in your neighborhood by a
transformer on the power pole...until it enters your home at 115 or
230 volts, or both.
A special form of this transformation idea is actually done in your
alternator, magnetically and mechanically, from the induced field from the rotor, and some other effects in the stator...but this is far too
complicated to explain in this article.
The only place transformation is done QUITE DIRECTLY in your Boxer, is in the ignition coil,
which by trickery, has a DC voltage
applied that is made to act like a form of AC. This DC, from the battery, is applied to a moderately low number of
PRIMARY winding turns. That produces a large magnetic field. The SECONDARY winding has many thousands of turns. It is a
property of transformers that a one turn primary and a 1000 turn secondary is a multiplication of 1:1000 in voltage step up
(and a corresponding DROP in CURRENT). If the voltage is high enough, it can break down the resistance of human skin, and pass into
the body, dangerously in some cases. It is hard to give cut and dried values, but generally you will not get an electrical shock if your
skin, even if wet, comes in contact with a voltage under perhaps 30 volts. The ignition coil(s) output may be MANY thousands of volts,
and 40,000 is NOT unheard of. Since a certain amount of power is being 'transformed', you could, if
thinking ahead here, rightly assume that the primary winding of your ignition coil (the one with the spade
lugs) has a relatively small number of turns of a wire that is relatively thick. The secondary then must have wire that is much
thinner, in order to fit in the case. Since very very high voltages are being developed, insulation must be quite good. The voltage
coming out the high voltage terminal(s) of your ignition coil(s) will do all sorts of bad things if the wire insulation is not
good, if the
spark plug cap is not in good condition, if the 'tower(s)' of the ignition coil(s) are not in good condition.
Consider what happens when the ignition coil wiring and spark plug, etc., are
all OK. Once the coil output voltage rises to the point that it will jump
the spark plug gap, the voltage output of the coil does not increase, but starts
to decrease very rapidly, the spark itself having a very short duration. IF the spark plug cap was off the spark plug, just
laying there, the coil voltage might just rise high enough to cause an
insulation breakdown inside the coil...or someplace else....and in the
electronics ignition models (1981+), you could damage expensive items besides
the coil(s).
In your Airhead, the primary source of electricity is the
battery,
which if in good condition has an INTERNAL RESISTANCE which is very low, a very small fraction of an ohm. This low
resistance is why
dangerous currents (like melting things type of currents) can flow with short circuits at the battery, or in too low a
resistance in circuits
connected to the battery. Your battery stores energy NOT as electricity, but as CHEMICAL
energy...or potential chemical energy. Upon a circuit being
connected and completed to the battery, the chemical energy changes in a way
that produces electricity. The type of parts inside the battery determine
the nominal voltage of the battery. Lead-acid batteries have a nominal
voltage of 2.2 volts per CELL. There are SIX interconnected such
cells in your /5 and later airhead battery. 6 x 2.2 is a nominal 13.2
volts. When the battery is in the motorcycle, and the alternator keeping
the battery fully charged, the battery will be in region of about 13.7-14.5
volts. As soon as the alternator output is below that needed to
'float' the battery voltage at that level, the battery voltage will drop.
If the battery was 100% charged, the terminal voltage will be in that range
mentioned, and if the engine is then shut off, the battery voltage will decrease
rapidly to under 13, then fall very slowly, until it stabilizes at about
12.5....and will remain there, until, over time and any drain, it is
discharged. For practical purposes, a battery that measures....in its
well-rested state.....below 12...has a rather low charge. There are
published 'tables' of battery charge level for all types of batteries, for
voltage and temperature. If the battery will seem to charge
properly (13.7 or more is obtained), and then the voltage drops under about 10.5
during engine cranking....then the battery has little life left (assuming the
starter is not excessively drawing current). More information on
voltages later in this article.
Wet cell lead-acid batteries [I call them SLOSH or flooded batteries] can, in hot weather, self-discharge as much as 1/3 every month, unless recharged. If not recharged fully during a ride, the battery tends to fail faster due to somewhat IRreversible chemical effects. A battery fails chemically as well as failing if INternal connections break or partially break. Once a battery fails chemically, it MAY be impossible to recharge it very much at all. Failure of any one or more cells can cause a type of failure that is sometimes hard for amateurs to locate. There are other types of batteries, one interesting type is called Valve Regulated, typified by the Panasonic brand version. I prefer the original, more properly descriptive, name, Absorbed Mat. As a general rule you should automatically replace your Panasonic battery every 3 years, and your flooded battery at 4 or 5 years. This schedule assumes you take care of the battery, and it is being charged properly.
The
Airhead Alternator...in more depth:
BMW elected to use a type of generator called an alternator. The name means that its output is alternating current...that sine wave
thing
again ...and for your information the frequency (number of CYCLES per second, or
Hz) varies with engine speed. When the
frequency is high enough, and your attached radio is not filtered well, some of the alternator noise may show up
on your radio as a whine, as that alternating current is not totally and perfectly
converted to DC by your diode board. In fact, due to inefficiencies
in the diodes' own actions, the diodes themselves can create some
types of radio noise, that can be difficult to filter out. There are
other sources of radio type electrical noises in your airhead....switched
contacts, relays, mechanical voltage regulator, and especially the ignition
system.
In order to charge the battery, the AC must be RECTIFIED, that is,
converted to DC (Direct current), which is done PRIMARILY by the six large diodes in the diode board [/6 and later have some additional
small diodes connecting to a center tap of the stator winding, and have SLIGHTLY improved output,
and SLIGHTLY smoother waveform, due to
them]. One diode section of
three diodes, the LOWER set, allows only the positive half of the AC to go to the battery positive post, and the other diode section of three diodes,
the TOP set, allows only the negative half of the AC to go to the battery negative
post, via the engine structure. The two rows of 3 diodes are DO NOT use the same part, although they
look identical; that is, one set of three diodes is internally reversed in direction of current flow from
the other set. These 6 large press-fitted diodes used on the boards are
identified by numbers: 1N3659 and 1N3659R. All six are PRESS fitted to aluminum heat sink material.
The smaller diodes have a much lower current rating.
The alternator does not produce just one sine wave output; but, for
efficiency, is designed to have THREE....'THREE PHASES'. This means that if, as
you learned well above in this article, one can speak of a single cycle of waveform...so
let us call one cycle being 360 degrees. That the
alternator, WITH REFERENCE TO ANY ONE of its 3 output phase connections, is producing output every 120 degrees...during that
360 degree
period. (I've simplified this ....don't climb on old Snowbum here). And, yep, those waveforms are constantly rising
and falling in
sinewave form. THUS...the waveforms do, yes, overlap.
These three waveforms are rectified by the three positive and three
negative large pressed-in-place diodes.
If you were to draw these waveforms, and eliminate
the lines below the crossovers, you would see a positive going part of a sine
wave, and a lower going part of a sine wave, each with three peaks. The
vast AREA between them can be thought of as quasi-DC. If you
think about the AREA of the waveform, you can easily see that more OVER-ALL power,
per unit of TIME, is available with those THREE phases.....compared to ONE
phase.
Besides the /6 and later stators and diode boards
center tap connections mentioned previously, ALL the diode boards have another set of 3 diodes, small ones, which do exactly
the same thing
as the three large positive-going ones. However, these smaller three diodes are
used ONLY to provide a
relatively smaller amount of current, which has more than one function:
(1) for driving the voltage regulator's 'sensing'
function; and, (2) to drive the several amperes needed for the rotor; and, (3)
to extinguish the GEN lamp after the alternator spins up fast enough to need
more rotor current than that provided through the GEN lamp. Yes, that is true, the regulator does not
directly sense the battery voltage, nor does it do this at the big diode outputs.
If a large diode in the diode board shorts [short-circuits], it allows
the entire AC waveform applied to it to pass, causing a huge current flow, and usually charring/burning, and a gross failure. If,
instead of shorting, that diode OPENS, you will lose somewhat more than just 1/6th of the alternator output, due to complex interaction of the
waveforms,
diodes, and magnetic fields. This type of failure is hard to diagnose with the diode board still in the motorcycle, and
still
connected. It is possible for a device called an oscilloscope to make a
definite determination, but few own those instruments. Symptoms might be a battery that MIGHT seem to
fully charge up, with correct voltages....yet, when enough load
is put on the bike's system...such as the headlight, or heated
clothing...etc....the voltage will not come up nearly far enough.
Since other faults can mimic this one, it takes some sleuthing. It is a rare event, but does happen.
Diodes boards are best checked when OUT of the
motorcycle. Using just an ohmmeter will give reasonable results, for
forward and reverse diode readings, but the best test is using an AC
(Alternating Current voltage source) with a lamp. See Oak's June 1999 article on Diode Boards, in Airmail,
which deals extensively with the diode board OUT of the bike. On a practical basis, since diodes can
act funny if hot or cold, a really anal person would check them at room temperature, and then repeat all measurements around boiling water
temperature, and at freezer temperature. I am NOT quite that anal, but admit to
doing this a time or two when faced with a seemingly intractable problem.
Specific diode and other problems in Airheads, OTHER THAN in the diode board:
1. If a single diode in the headlamp relay shorts, the motorcycle
engine will
not turn off with the key switch, only by stalling the engine or by disconnecting a battery
wire. The process repeats after the next start. Later headlight relays
may contain TWO diodes. The function of the diode inside this relay, at pin 85, which is in
series with the coil, is NOT well understood by me, I've only seen one, it was
1.244.411, and I have proposed that it might be in case the starter locks
up. The original diode, still there, is between pins 86 and
87b. The pin 86-87b diode's purpose is to leave the tail and dash
lamps on during starting. Probably a German requirement.
In the monolever bikes, from 1987, if the lights come on when the starter is used, or PARK is selected, you have a bad diode in the
lighting relay (one of those two in there). NOTE that
the headlight relay pin 85, a black wire, the grounding end of the headlight
relay COIL, returns to ground via the starter motor hot terminal. This
'clever' arrangement means that when the starter is energized, the headlight
relay has +12 on BOTH sides of its coil, and the relay DEenergizes, turning OFF
the headlight, but the mentioned relay's diode keeps the tail and instruments
lit. ALSO note that BMW has used TWO arrangements for the
wiring to the 3 position left bar headlight switch. Most schematic
diagrams show the green wire going to the key switch, but some have it to the
hot always side, some do not. Thus, on some bikes the momentary switch
works without the key.
2. On models /6 and /7 and up through 1984, if your neutral light
has weird things going on, such as being OUT in neutral, ON in gear, unless clutch lever pulled in, and maybe ON at every clutch
usage....or some one or more of these indications, you have a bad
diode that is located on the BACKside of the board inside the
headlight shell. This applies to all twin shock models, EXCEPT the R45 and R65 where the diode is
plugged into the wiring below the starter relay on pre-1981 R45/65, .....and inside the starter relay in post 1981
R45/65 AND MONOLEVER
models.
3. If your bike will crank the starter ONLY if you also pull in the clutch bar
lever, you likely
have a bad starter relay diode. Did you notice here that the starter relay MIGHT have a diode? So, what do you think may happen if you don't use the proper relay?? YEP.
4. blank
5. There are some peculiarities in the BMW system here
and there. One is that from 1977 the starter relay has two RED
wires that are essentially simply jumpered via a link inside the
relay. Corrosion here can cause the entire lights, etc., system to act
weird or act disconnected.
Batteries:
A LOT can be said about batteries. Here are a few somewhat useful bits of information:
Voltage regulator settings:
The voltage regulator should not be checked unless the battery has
first been charged. Voltage regulator settings are BEST checked with a thermometer on the voltage regulator. However, what I do is to
simply start the bike after sitting all day or night at a roughly known air temperature, and then I rev the bike up within a very FEW minutes,
and measure the voltage at the battery terminals, with a known accurate digital meter, BEFORE the regulator
can be heated by engine heat. With the battery previously being fully charged, it takes only a minute or so at 4000 rpm for the battery to recharge, and
reach its regulated voltage setting. Temperatures below are VOLTAGE REGULATOR temperatures. It is FAR better to have the voltage
regulator and the battery both at about the same temperature, which is why the testing should be done from a fully cooled off engine, within
minutes of starting. Values below are for flooded batteries.
47°F 13.8-14.4 volts
68°F OPTIMUM setting for MAREG batteries at this temp. is 14.1
volts.
70°F 13.7-14.3 volts
93°F 13.6-14.2 volts
117°F 13.5-14.1 volts
140°F 13.4-14.0 volts
163°F 13.3-13.9 volts
NOTE: voltage regulators are internally temperature compensated...and you can expect your fairing, or other, voltmeter to DEcrease in
reading as the engine warms up and radiates heat to the battery and to the voltage
regulator. NOTE that the voltage you are interested in is at the
battery, not at some other place on your bike. NOTE that if
connections, especially to the voltage regulator, alternator, diode board, and battery, are not good, clean, solid, the readings and
performance will likely suffer.
Charging:
There are a few things to know about
charging a battery. Initially, on a very weak battery (low
charge), you especially want to simply limit the current flow. Typically
and usually recommended maximum is a rate of charge equal to 10% of the battery capacity in ampere-hours. That is, a 28 ampere-hour
battery should normally not be charged at a rate over 2.8 amperes. On a practical bases, about twice that value is usually acceptable for
the short term, just do not allow the battery to get over luke-warm. After the battery voltage comes up to near 14 volts,
which charges it fully....then....the
battery can be 'floated' at a much lower level, to keep it fully charged, and the float charger left
on indefinitely if the voltage is 12.8 to 13.2 (at
nominal 77°F). This is what 'smart chargers' do, although some are smarter than others in HOW they do it.
Slosh batteries, often called FLOODED or conventional lead acid
batteries, can endure a sustained charge of their rated ampere-hours, divided by 18.
They will, however, need the water replenished more often...and this type of
floating is NOT recommended by ME.
Never allow the voltage to exceed 15.5. Some batteries can handle this,
short-term, others can NOT.
Hydrometer readings on slosh (flooded) batteries, corrected for
temperature, are fairly accurate, but some battery faults are such that such readings
are NOT overly useful on our motorcycles. Still, the test is useful at
times. Lower liquid capacity hydrometers for small batteries are
available cheaply.
If a battery has been charged, then let sit and stabilize over time,
the battery voltage will very slowly drop, after a much larger initial drop from fresh charging. The following table assumes 77°F, and that
the battery has sat for at least a few hours:
Fully discharged: 11.89 volts or less. NOTE that SOME books will say that this is 10.5 volts, SOME will say that a 10% charge is left at 11.31 volts; and 20% at 11.58 volts, 30% at 11.75 volts. These variances are due to the type of battery construction, and method of measuring and the amount of capacity left. The following are generally accepted 'official' values:
100% of charge at 12.7 volts and 77°F [UNofficially, your battery is PROBABLY going to read about 12.6 volts for fully charged, at around 65°F, after it sits for some hours].
The below values are for 77°F:
75% of charge at 12.5 volts
50% of charge at 12.27 volts
25% of charge at 12.06 volts
Absorbed Mat (Valve Regulated) (Panasonic type) batteries need somewhat higher
charging voltages....and I like to see the voltage regulators set for
about 14.3 or even a tad more.
Typical electrical usage in the STOCK airhead:
Headlight 55 or 60 watts; ignition 40 watts; miscl small
lamps, etc about 15 watts; charging after battery fully charged...about 10 watts.
Starting:
Problems with
starting can often be traced to a starter in need of replacement or overhaul or
lubrication of the Bendix drive, a
bad starter solenoid, and occasionally a problem in the starter relay
circuitry. Some stock relays have a diode
inside. Unconfirmed information is that some have substituted a
0-332-014-118 relay, perhaps a DF005 'Blazer' relay from AutoZone
stores. The Bosch starter relay uses two #87 terminals,
and may sub to Bosch 03 32 019 150 for 1977+ bikes. That is a common Bosch
accessory use relay. Connector, if you need one, is 0 334 485 007, while
the spring loaded terminals are 1 901 355 917.
NOTE: Bosch starters up through 1974 were 8 tooth 0.001.157.007, rated 0.5 hp and 290 A. The /6 bikes for 1975 and 1976 used an 8 tooth 0.001.157.015 rated 0.6 hp and 320 A. The 8 tooth starters are used ONLY with the 93 tooth flywheels.
For 1977 and later, the starter has to be 9 tooth, for use with the 111 tooth
flywheels (or carrier). The starter is 0.001.157.023, rated 0.7 hp and 320
A. Solenoids, unconfirmed, seem to be the same as EARLY air
cooled VW.
NOTE: Valeo starters can be replaced with Bosch, you also need the forward end bracket that the Bosch used to secure it to the timing chest wall. There is an $$ aftermarket Denso starter available that is quite high powered.
NOTE: The "Airheads
Beemer Club" has an account with Ace Houston Warehouse, a
wholesaler/importer/remanufacturer, ETC. The Club account is #700.
Call Bob Spencer at 1-800-392-3332 or e-mail to acehoutx@flash.net.
Mention account 700. The Valeo starters are available. The part was
D6RA15, Valeo changed it to 432586. The last price for these from Ace was
$172.50 plus shipping. This is a brand NEW starter. 5 or more are
cheaper. There is no core charge, but they will probably pay shipping to
get your old one. They have rebuilt Bosch starters, last price
was $200 and a $100 core charge and shipping (core charge refunded).
Bob thought that the Bosch starters MIGHT be put back into production at some
point. The information in THIS paragraph was provided by Ken
Kirk kirkkw@yahoo.com.
NOTE:
See information in the URL section of this website for other electrical
sources!!!...including oversize alternators, parts and service for Bosch and
Valeo, ETC!! In particular, see Euro Motoelectrics; www.EuroMotoElectrics.com!
Addendum:
1. Eddy Currents. Eddy currents are a phenomena, or characteristic, of some forms of magnetics. In our airheads, they are at two prominent places, the speedometer, and the alternator stator. An eddy current can be thought of as a particular type of electrical and magnetic energy that can be induced into a magnetic medium (steel laminations of the stator), or into a non-magnetic structure, such as the aluminum cup used in the speedometer. In the stator, eddy currents are UNdesirable. Eddy currents are often generated in transformers, and are generated in the steel laminations of the stator, and lead to power losses. To combat this, thin, laminated strips of metal are used in the construction of power transformers, and your stator, rather than making the transformer or stator out of one solid piece of metal. The thin strips are separated by insulating glue, which confines the eddy currents to the strips. This reduces the eddy currents, thus reducing the power loss. It is important to not scratch the laminations across, which might cause currents to flow between the laminations in a way that they were not designed for. In speedometers that USE eddy current technology, a rotating magnet induces eddy currents into an aluminum cup. The cup is spring loaded (usually a flat round hairspring). The faster the rotation, the higher the magnetic forces the aluminum cup experiences, causing it to rotate, and take the attached indicating speed needle with it. Thus, even though the aluminum itself is seemingly UNaffected by you bringing a magnet near it, and you certainly cannot turn the aluminum part into a permanent magnet, it will be affected.
Revisions:
02/03/2003: Add typical electrical usage values
02/04/2003: add information on starting and starters; headlight circuitry;
(2) at top; add to #1 in problems area; simplify some explanations, eliminate
some redundency's
04/03/2003: editing for clarity
01/05/2004: update the URL for Chicago Region club.
02/06/2004: clarifications only
05/26/2004: update contact information for Chicago Region Club
03/01/2005: revise including hyperlinks, for the chitech electrics manual,
as article 80 is now done
04/12/2005: Add (3) at very top, add Addendum, and explain eddy currents
08/06/2006: Revised and updated entire article
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