lamps.htm-24A
Lamps
©
Copyright, 2013, R. Fleischer
lamps.htm-24A
This article
covers lamp theory, lamp substitutions, updating the /5
headlight, adding relays, fuses, LED
instrument lamps, large
headlights, special sockets, heavier gauge
wiring, HEADLIGHT MODULATORS, flasher, ETC.
This article does not cover HID nor LED HEADLAMP lamp substitutions, although I DO discuss them a little bit. I believe that LED headlamps are NOT at all ready for prime time; and there are plenty of problems in using HID headlamps, particularly with turn-on times, when going from low to high beam and the high beam is HID. There are also reflector and focusing problems that are severe. The stock reflector and lens are not OK for HID conversions of just the LAMP!
PLEASE
see article 24B, that discusses the headlight relay, the internal
diode,
the handlebars switch, and how they all work
together. It is NOT so simple,
and that article
information IS needed to understand using larger wattage
lamps,
relays, ETC.
Part 1, Headlight lamps, and a little on relays and switches:
NOTE: Our Airhead bikes use 9003 type headlamps, often just called H4 halogen lamps, and sometimes identified as 9003HB2. There are some differences in these lamps, particularly in specialty versions, but I don't need to do a 5 page dissertation on them here.
BMW stock lamps are arguably quite decent for
your bike; except for the UNconverted non-halogen
early /5 headlight lamp
& lens/reflector
assembly, which used a 40/45 non-halogen lamp, and is
vastly improved by upgrading the lamp, lens, and reflector
to a
H4 halogen lamp; by
using the original BMW conversion kit parts;
or, cheaper, from an
R65;....or using a special
64198 lamp,
which is a 60/55 Halogen, made by Osram, and that lamp's
particular construction and
filament will work with the stock /5 reflector
and lens.
The stock /5 headlight socket will accommodate a higher
power lamp with no problems. Substituting a standard
H4
lamp with the original lens and reflector will NOT work well,
the lamp may not fit the hole well, and the light pattern will be ugly in many ways.
The kit that BMW once offered to upgrade the /5 headlight is NLA, hence the
recommendation to use the R65 assembly.
This
will adapt
at much less
cost and works well with common H4 halogen lamps. The stock 180 watt /5 alternator is
adequate. It is possible to
update the /5 alternator to a 280 watt unit if one has lots of electrical needs, but only a
specific size (105 mm stator) fits the /5 engine
casting,
and that particular stator housing is from some
of the 1974-1975 model years. However, a high powered
alternator to fit all
airheads, including the /5, is available,
called the EnDuraLast....available in 105 mm size for the
/5, and 107 mm for later models. You can
also
consider the Omega alternator which has even higher output....even
though both are seemingly rated at 450 watts (I have an article
on
this website that describes their REAL output).
NOTE that the early headlight chrome rings
were not screw/clamp fastened, and many have been lost along the
road, and it is best to
fashion a method to secure them at the
very bottom if you are using them.
It is up to YOU to decide, for one reason or another, to make a
substitution or change or modification. Perhaps you
are on the road and
cannot find the correct lamp. Perhaps you
want them brighter or want to add a lamp.
Note that some lamps are ~direct equivalents,
such as the 9003
headlight bulb (for after the early /5, or the
converted /5)...and there are subs available for taillights,
instrument and
indicator lamps. Many substitutes will fit in
existing sockets and are quite adequate for use. When
substituting a lamp it is a good
idea to THINK about such things
as life expectancy, light output, AND heat
output.
Be aware that while the 9003 is a generic number, the Euro lamp versions are generally of better quality, light pattern and output.
At this point, after you read the
above sentence, I thought it appropriate to give you some nerdy headlamp
information.
International specifications are not the same for the H4
headlamps as USA specifications. You will find the information in
this paragraph
to be generally hard to come by. International H4 lamps are rated at
1650 lumens on the high beam and 1000 lumens on the low beam,
both are +- 15%. Note that the specification has a maximum power drain,
and it is 75 watts on high beam and 68 watts on low beam, and
these specifications are for 13.2 volts. That 13.2 volts is more important
than a quick glance tells you.
For the USA, the equivalent lamp is called a 9003/HB2 or H4, and the lumens are
1580/910 +-10%. The draw is specified as maximum
72/65 watts but at 12.8 volts. You will find the drain about the same or
higher at the European 13.2 volts. If you are 'lucky' your bike's
system has a voltage of closer to 13.8 to 14.2 AT THE LAMP. This raises
drain in watts, but increases light output, but decreases life,
rather by a fair amount too. HOWEVER, the decrease in life on regular
incandescent lamps, with increase in voltage, while rapid, is not nearly so
rapid as with a Halogen headlight lamp bulb.
Note carefully what I am saying here. A regular incandescent lamp, such as
nearly every lamp in your motorcycle (except the H4 or other Halogen headlight)
will have a life that goes down on a steep curve, as voltage rises, particularly
if over rated voltage. BUT, in the other direction, a quite modest
DEcrease in light is had with a QUITE MODEST DEcrease in VOLTAGE,
YET...YET!...that results in a HUGE increase in LIFE. The Halogen
lamp is much less affected in these ways.
I have formulas for lamp outputs, and how they vary with
voltage, and information also on the difference between Euro and USA
specifications for voltage, light output, life, etc. But, I think it
easier to just simplify it all for you:
The below information was for a 9006 lamp, but the idea is common to all lamps.
This listing is for a USA specified lamp.
10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output (USA)
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life (USA)
14.5V : 1528 lumens
NOTE that the lamp output is rated at 12.8 volts. Most lamps will have
considerably more voltage on them, especially if the alternator is charging, or
the bike is just at the JUST-stopped point, and the 12.8 volt rated rear braking lamp is
being considered...the voltage might be much higher for awhile. NOTE
that some manufacturer's rate the lamp life at the rated voltage. Thus,
12.8 for output and life. It is extremely difficult to get the
information.
The Europeans are more realistic with voltage ratings; they use 13.2 volts for
rated light output.
When operating voltage drops to 95 percent, headlamp
bulbs produce only 83 percent of their rated light output. At 90 percent,
you only get 67% of normal light output.
at 85%, about 11.2 volts, you get HALF of normal light output!!
You may find some books stating that a 'standard' H4 lamp is 1100/1500 lumens.
Disregard that statement.
There is an enormous amount of false advertising and hype about aftermarket headlight lamps. I will get into this deeper later. Suffice HERE to say that PLUS type lamps have a slightly different focus point, REDUCED life, but the focus is further down the road.
The BMW 55/60 watt halogen H4 headlight lamp (similar to common
type 9003 and really same as BP1260-H4 and generally equivalent to 9003/HB2) is often changed by
owners to much higher
wattage units. Be very cautious about this,
as not only is the airhead alternator output not overly generous,
but the
handlebar light switch
is NOT rated
for those larger
lamps, and therefore it is a MUST
to use a heavy duty relay (the autoparts store
Bosch 20 or 30 ampere relays are
not expensive and are fine for this), using
the original light switch output connected to the relay coil. You can do
this conversion with
ONE relay, if that relay is "SPDT", which means Single
Pole Double Throw.
The Eastern Beaver company makes
nifty relay kits, that PLUG IN!...but I am not a fan of them for
higher than stock power lamps,
feeling that the contacts in these relays are not
heavy-duty
enough, although, to be fair, their kits DO seem to hold up just fine.
No hard and fast rules here on how to
wire and use the relay(s) and switch gear, installations vary, depending on what
you want to do/have. I will have more to say much
later in this article.
Eastern Beaver also has ceramic sockets available, that handle
high temperatures. Here is a hyperlink, you will have
to scan down to
find the ceramic one:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Headlight_Connectors/headlight_connectors.html
They are not the only company selling such high temperature
sockets.
A discussion of sockets, and other recommendations, is later-on
in this article you are reading.
***NOTE! You
probably have an airhead with the high beam flashing switch on
the left end of the handlebar. That switch
is part of the
Hi/Lo selector. You really do need to be aware of a
peculiarity. The Hi/Lo switch section, in the stock
bike wiring, handles the headlight's full current flow. That is why one or
two relays are added if you install a headlight
that is over
maybe 70 watts, so that the switch does not wear out
quickly. BUT, the push-to-flash section is a
partially separate circuit.
Thus, just how you wire up your
relay (s) is important.
Phillips makes what they call and Xtreme Power lamp, stock wattage, that puts
out 1895/1150 lumens. It is a decent lamp.
The best 'nearly
stock' H4 lamp I have found, to be used with stock or with one or
two relays, is the Osram lamp 64205, it is
rated at
70/65 watts. It has a very
nice output, at
1350/2000 lumens.
Very well made lamp, and
just perfect on the beam and color. I think it will
generally be OK to use this without adding a relay(s), but relays will improve
light output and greatly lengthen switch life.
Brighter is the higher powered 64206 at 80/85 watts and 1750/2400
lumens. The
standard legal
lamp is 64193 at 60/55 watts. The rated life for these
lamps is 100/200 hours when at 13.2 volts, under normal automotive type
use. Expect somewhat less on a
vibrating bike...but this depends a lot on
the bike.....and especially on the
voltage. If the voltage AT the lamp BASE is more like
12.5
or so, then the lamp will last a MUCH LONGER. THE
REVERSE
IS TRUE, the lamp life going DOWNward, very fast too,
for a
rather modest increase in voltage. Lamps, when
considering
the rated lamp
voltage, have a relatively small light DEcrease
with a small voltage DEcrease.
If your lamp runs at 14.2 volts,
the
lamp life will be shortened, but, frankly, I prefer that voltage
for lamp performance, and don't mind the life DEcrease...which is not that bad,
and a headlight modulator (on the high beam)
probably EXTENDS the life somewhat. My comments about voltage and life
applies for sure to smaller incandescent lamps and
non-halogen /5 headlamps. Due to a peculiarity of how H4 Halogen lamps
work (redeposition of material back on filament, etc, and
that the temperature of the filament MUST be adequate for this to work well),
the LIFE of the lamp with voltage changes is NOT
nearly as severe as with smaller non-halogen lamps. Halogen
headlamps will last a goodly number of hours on a motorcycle,
if the voltage AT THE BASE of the lamp when the lamp is ON, is 13.7 to 14.3.
Here is a place that seems to stock these lamps; I have no experience with the company:
This is how an H4m, 9003, etc., lamp is internally connected.
In actuality, it applies to just about all similar
3 terminal lamps.
The blue lamps and other high priced trick
lamps may SEEM brighter, but if you are in an oncoming car, you
may think differently.....claims
of 100 watt output for 55 or 60
watts of power are dead flat wrong and TOTALLY misleading.
PIAA is one of the worst cases, their advertising is, in a lot of instances,
bogus. The eye is much more sensitive to certain colors. The eye's
sensitivity to yellowish-green is quite interesting, but we do not have
headlights of that color...because, while the light would be very visible
and very noticeable
to the
drivers of other vehicles, the light would not illuminate the
ground/highway/etc., for the driver of the car with those
yellow-green lamps.
It is altogether way too easy to confuse the buying public with claims that are
either unproven, downright incorrect....or,
that mix up these two things:
1. illumination of the road, etc., for the DRIVER.
2. illumination of the oncoming vehicle for recognition.
Those two items are NOT ONE AND THE SAME THING.
AND...the blue-lamp (etc) makers, like PIAA, are definitely
taking
advantage of the confusion, in order to sell you a lamp.
In FACT, you may even THINK that their stock 55/60 blue lamps are
BETTER
and BRIGHTER....yet, they are actually LESS so.
Our brains are 'annoyed' MORE by some
'colors'....which, at the same time, may....and often do
NOT ....provide better
clarity, visibility, etc.
"The" prominent example is the bluish
light from blue-coated H4 and H3 type lamps. The light
output is not
nearly the same from those bulbs
as the spectrum of light from modern HID
lighting in cars; which they were designed to
SEEM to copy. The blue
coating lets more blue of
certain frequencies through...but greatly removes the
amount of wider spectrum light that
might give YOU, the driver of that vehicle,
more
information about things the light lands on. But, to your
brain, just looking briefly at the
lighted area, especially if the beam is
focused
differently, particularly narrowing the beam in some particular
portion...may 'trick' you into thinking that the blue lamps are
better than the
clear ones. THAT
is the sneaky thing about these blue-coated lamps.
Some manufacturer's will also change the guides and director metal bits inside
the lamps and provide what you THINK is brighter light, but is
a different
dispersal.....and the beam cutoffs barely are legal. Some are not
legal....some
have too much power and are illegal...and some have
almost no, or actually no,
beam cutoffs, and are very illegal, and blind oncoming drivers. There were some lamps being sold that changed the
FOCUS point, by changing the distance between reflector and lamp
light emitting element....not
sure if those are still on the market.
In some instances the better quality European-spec headlamp bulbs are noticeably
better than the cheaper domestic lamps. The BEST lamp
I know of, and not
sure where to buy them anymore, is the Osram 64205....I think it was a 70/65 H4,
at 2000 lumens high beam and 1350
on low beam. Very well made lamp, and
just perfect on the beam and color.
The blue coated PIAA lamps (and their many imitators) are awful; and most have
no idea, and think them better. It is proven by many tests
of many
types...which is likely contrary to what some of you think. AND...I
don't blame you for thinking that way....even if NOT influenced
by the
advertising.
****Headlight bulbs run very hot, and the H4 halogen lamps use a type of quartz glass that you must NOT touch with your fingers, which leave often invisible skin oils on the lamp, which shorten the lamp life. If you have handled the lamp glass, clean it with alcohol. This is a good policy for any lamp.
****The stock headlight lamp
sockets are perfectly capable of handling the stock lamps (and, the /5 only socket will handle
higher powered lamps); however, when you increase the wattage of the headlight lamp (and you'll use relays, riiiiight!!??!!)...then
you are advised, for /6 and later, to use a socket that handles more heat. The /5 socket was 63-12-8-650-145. A substitute could
be the NAPA LS6235, around $6.
That number is listed in Napa literature now as under the ECHLIN electrical's section...and
the Napa number in the catalog is ECH LS6235. It appears to be bakelite and have ~14 gauge
wire, 3 each black, maybe 6-1/2" long.
Hi/Lo/Ground is
marked on the socket. It seems well constructed.
Another socket is the Autozone 84790, called a high
temperature
socket....I was told it was ceramic, which would
be the best way to go (if it is....but someone reported to me
that it is
actually 482°F nylon; 3 colored wires, and a rubber
boot is included)...that would be OK, but I have not tested the
socket.
Here is another source, scan down for the ceramic socket:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Headlight_Connectors/headlight_connectors.html
Headlight reflectors and inside the glass,
will get fogged up by dirt, etc., over a long period of time, and
should be cleaned with alcohol
mixed with a drop of detergent and
in some water, and using appropriate lint-free cloth, and then flushed with clear water.
Allow
to dry VERY thoroughly before
installing the
lamp, etc. I do
not try to separate the
glass part, I do my cleaning through the lamp hole. I recommend against using Windex or similar, with ammonia!
Keep
in mind that an
incandescent lamp has a very hot piece of metal inside, and that
metal will radiate HEAT. The wattage rating of a lamp is the
power INput to the lamp, and that power is directly proportional
to HEAT. Some lamps are rated only in voltage and current.
Multiply voltage
times amperes to get watts. It is possible that
too powerful a lamp will do some heat damage to your lamp socket
area. In fact, that is QUITE
possible. I have
theorized that using some larger lamps have SO MUCH extra heat they are not only going to melt or deform
the
plastics in the area, but may well detract from life of such as
the tach and speedometer/odometer. The later HEADLAMP
sockets are
not good with large lamps...early ceramic ones are
fine. I have NOT tested all the possible
combinations of higher wattage lamps for any heat
or other
problems in the instruments, nor eyebrow area of the RS/RT. ...which I
THINK can be used with most 5 watt lamps...but unlikely with 10 (??).
Part 2:
LED's (Light Emitting Diodes)
Bright 12 volt-rated LED lamps that fit the indicator sockets on some BMW motorcycle pod models are now available reasonably priced. However, some give insufficient light output on any sort of angle, and many do not mount in the original sockets....some that do ARE available.
Many LED lamps do not project much light to the sides and they do not work in
flasher circuits in which the flasher
unit is load dependent,
without
additional changes. BMW has used a number of
different flasher circuits on our Airheads. Some 12 volt LED 12
volt lamps, or lower voltage ones with added
resistors, work just
fine on most /6 and later bikes. Many types of LED's and multiple LED lamp
assemblies are available commercially. BE
cautious about
their use, especially for the rear tail light which is a big
safety item. There
are some LED lamp arrays that
project to sides and
forward, and I have seen some that were
quite good for the turn signals, and even in use for converting to
combination turn/running lamps.
SOME, however, don't work well when the turn function is on, because it is not
all that much brighter, although the specs say they are, than the running
portion. Specs are helpful, but REAL world LOOKING is important here. It
is IMPORTANT that a running/turn lamp be distinct from RUN, in the TURN mode.
Modifying to LED instrument lamps is not necessarily always
an improvement. It is pretty easy to remove a pod and
replace lamps every
few years anyway. You hardly save much
in wattage doing a LED conversion. It is true that a LED lamp usually
lasts almost forever, if
properly powered.
It may, however,
be hard to see, especially in the daytime. Some have almost a dot type
light.
Many have converted various rear lamps to LED. NOTE that a
power-wasting resistor may be needed on SOME. Think before you jump
in! For extra lighting, consider a license plate frame that has LED lamps all around it, in particular the type that operates as RUN mode AND a braking mode.
NO LED headlights that I have
seen are OK...so far, for Airheads! I expect that some will
be
available, at a high price, in the near future, but using them in the stock
reflector
may be a real problem.
I have the same idea about CONVERTING the stock headlight reflector and lamp assembly to HID...although some are fairly decent.
PART 3:
techy
stuff on lamp life,
etc:
***NOTE that if your bike has one stock rear running lamp, and it
fails, you have NO light to the rear...at all, unless you have
running lamps that
have been added.
Conversion of the turn indicators to have an additional running
lamp function is relatively easy, and an article is posted at
this
website:
addingrunninglamps.htm
There are pros and cons to this conversion. The strongest
argument AGAINST the conversion is that
the turn signal portion MIGHT NOT be AS visible, when the running
lamp is illuminated. You can select a running lamp wattage that is
relatively
low, to mostly offset this argument.
I prefer separate lamps in many instances.
When a common lamp fails it is almost always
because the filament broke from being thinned or
stretched/sagged, all from usage, over a long
period of
time. You can generally identify a lamp that is close to dying as the filament is visibly sagging. This is
particularly
noticeable in the turn
signal and taillight and braking lamps. Thus,
regularly, you should visually inspect the lamps. This
is highly recommended
for the rear running and
brake light(s).
Sudden
failure is usually brought about by a characteristic of the wire
filament in incandescent lamps. ....
The internal lamp
filament wire, a type of tungsten, has a far lower resistance
when cold, than when hot. Thus, at the instant the power is
applied
to the cold lamp filament, the 'inrush' current is very
large, and the thinned or otherwise weakened area of the filament
fails. As the wire breaks,
if the spacing between the broken ends
is small enough, and the time that small spacing exists is long
enough, the lamp might arc. The lamp
MIGHT draw a large current
at that time....and in RARE instances, blow a fuse. This effect
is FAR more prominent in higher voltage lamps,
such as in your
house, where the breaking is accompanied often by a bright flash
of light due to the arcing (but seldom blows a fuse or circuit breaker.
NOTE that
when the turn signals are
flashing on and off, that
on-off usage detracts greatly from their official life
expectancy.
Strangely, not so with the Halogen lamps...if
flashed at
a relatively fast rate (such as the 4 times per second officially
for a headlight modulator).
A very special case is a halogen headlight bulb, where a
headlight modulator MIGHT even INcrease its life.
For extremely complex reasons,
a halogen headlight bulb may last
LONGER with a modulator, IF the modulator does NOT allow the lamp
to cool too much between 'pulses'.
A rate of about 2.5 to 4 per
second, even if fully off and fully on voltage is applied, is
near the optimum for both life AND eye catching
potential!
Use of modulators is deemed a strong
SAFETY DEVICE by ME, although others dislike them, feeling that
they annoy oncoming drivers; and some
have very strong feelings about being in front of someone with
flashing lights. Use of proper types of
HEADLIGHT modulators are legal in all
States, and is codified
into Federal Law for motorcycles.
Note also that book values for lamp life are most
often based on AC, not DC, and for NO vibration. At least this is
so for American numbers.
It is VERY UNclear if all vehicle
lamps are even rated for DC. Lamp manufacturers
do not supply the complete information...even when asked.
The rule of thumb on LIFE of lamps rated for A.C., is
that the AVERAGE life will be HALF the book value AT BEST if an AC-rated
lamp is used on DC.
GENERALLY, a higher voltage-rated
lamp will last MUCH longer, in a circuit that has LESS
than that lamp's rated voltage, at very little cost in
light
output. LIFE INcreases GENERALLY at the 12th
(some books say 8th) POWER (yes, exponentially) of the INcrease in the voltage
rating
of the lamp,
above actual circuit voltage. The DEcrease in life if a lamp has excessive voltage applied to it is
vastly faster, percentage-wise.
Thus,
over-voltage application to lamps means a SHORT
life. The voltage measured AT the rear brake lamp, or
headlamp, or any lamp, is
ALWAYS going to be a bit BELOW the
measured BATTERY voltage, and probably a bit below the fairing
voltmeter....by a typical
0.4 volt OR MORE. THUS, a battery
might be floating during cruising at 14.0 volts, the fairing voltmeter
read 13.7, and the brake light when
illuminated be actually at 13.3 volts. This has an effect on lamp life,
referring to the RATED voltage of the lamp...which is likely 12.8
for
the BRAKE lamp filament. Typically, then, 12.8 volt rated BRAKE
lamps don't last long. These values are off the top of my
head, not measured values.
To restate this in the reverse direction, if a lamp is being run at a
slight DEcrease in voltage than it is rated for, the light output
will be almost
UNnoticeably lower,
but the LIFE will be GREATLY EXTENDED. If the voltage is at a slight INcrease
in voltage than it is rated for, the lamp life will be, in proportion,
GREATLY REDUCED. Yes, the difference between
the effects of higher or lower voltage is NOT THE SAME,
proportionately.
NOTE that while life of normal
NON-halogen lamps
increases continually as voltage is dropped more and more,
not so the halogen....which,
if filament temperature drops enough, will
start to lose life....on a
complicated curve, which then, as
voltage continues downward, increases life, again. The area
of DEcrease is generally under 11 socket measured volts, so is of no real
interest, other than my nerdy reply here, for our bikes.
DC (direct current...battery power) operation of lamps REDUCES
lamp life as was noted above. Lamps are generally rated by the manufacturer using
AC
(alternating current) power. It is UNclear if headlamps, or even
other vehicle lamps are also rated thusly. Yes, this is peculiar,
because many lamps,
not just headlamps, are designed for
vehicles that certainly do not have AC systems driving the lamps. There
are some exceptions...and peculiarities.
My old Vespa scooter had DC output for
the battery, coil ignition, and taillight, and an AC output
strictly for the headlight.
I have had antique radios
come into my shop that have AC on their dial lamps, and the
lamps are original, and the radio has been in
use for 70 years.
Put yet another way: if a lamp is used at its RATED voltage, one
MIGHT, under ideal, non-vibratory, constantly
left on, alternating
current operation, obtain its
average rated life. If the voltage is lowered by 10%, or the lamp
is rated at 10% higher voltage than it is
being used at, then the
life goes up exponentially. The reverse is true also, BUT the
effect is FAR faster! This means that using a lamp
with higher
than rated voltage supply to it will reduce life VERY quickly. The
measured LIGHT output of a lamp is affected only very slightly,
by a
10% change in voltage. However,
for headlight use, with halogen lamps, where the effect of
lowered voltage is faster on light output, it is sometimes worthwhile
to use larger gauge wire, relays, more direct wiring, etc., to
raise the voltage half a volt or more...or to protect expensive
handlebar switches
(particularly with larger wattage
lamps). Note that most all modulators DEcrease
headlight voltage very SLIGHTLY, decreasing actual light
SLIGHTLY....and thereby this modulator usage by simply the
SLIGHTLY lower voltage ALSO extends life. This effect is
VERY VERY SMALL, however
on modern modulators, which do not use older types of transistors
(which had higher voltage drops when fully turned-on) to control
the through-power.
ONE LAST WAY to think about this: If your
voltage regulator is set for 14.9 volts at 70°F (this is when measured directly
at the battery terminals, and is also
the absolute upper limit
voltage for most types of batteries), you
might expect MUCH less life on your
lamps. They will be somewhat brighter
though.
Probably 14.2 is a nice value for most
batteries
as a compromise, when one also thinks of battery life (most batteries have a
longer life if the charging
is set for 14 to 14.4, as opposed to lower voltage). Certainly, the 13.8 that
is often found will extend lamp life.
You can expect your BRAKE and TURN lamps to have
REDUCED life with over 14 volts. I still recommend 14.2 to
14.4 volts for the readings AT the battery TERMINALS...for
battery life, etc.
Final nerdy point:
A lamp with 50%-100% greater instrument-measured (or specified)
light output will NOT look all that much brighter to your
eye.
PART 4: Lamp equivalents and/or substitutions (see much earlier for headlamp numbers).
UNDERSTAND FIRST OF ALL THAT SUBSTITUTIONS ARE JUST THAT, AND MAY OR MAY NOT BE TOTALLY EQUIVALENT. Today, one can USUALLY get the original European lamp number at most autoparts stores. However, there can be times you WANT a substitute or have to use one, for a variety of reasons. It may be an emergency burn-out; it may be you want a brighter lamp; it may be you want the better performance of an original type......and many more reasons. When I list a substitute, it means you will have a usable useful lamp. In many instances, below, I describe the differences, and what that means.
Lamps with the Euro part number almost always perform BETTER than the American part that is often substituted! In particular, the BRASS base American lamps do NOT do well.
Various lamps in the airhead can be substituted USUALLY WITHOUT problems.
There are
substitutes for EVERY lamp. Some are OK, some
perhaps not.
The Alternator lamp (not the /5) is rated at 12 volts
and 3 watts, part number
07-11-9-978-372. The 2825 lamp will offer
more
brightness, and a bit more alternator output at the lower
initial rpm area. You can also use the common #168,
etc...see
below. There is an article on this website
on adding a resistor in case the lamp fails...which usually, otherwise, stops
the alternator from ANY
output. The article is the genlampresistor.htm
article.
The rear running lamp, BMW 07-11-9-978-227, rated at a NOMINAL 12 volt and 5 watts, can be substituted by a very commonly available #97 lamp, which is rated at 13.5 volts at .69 ampere, which means that at THAT voltage, it would draw 9.3 watts, it will draw less at 12 volts.
Regarding the substitution of #193, #194, #168, #161, #158 used
in the instruments:
These lamps are described officially as style T 3-1/4 and used at
the tachometer, speedometer, turn signal indicator, GEN.
158 lamp = 2.80 watts, .20 ampere, rated 500 hours, a.c. (may be
rated at 13v and .24 ampere), about the same light output as a
193 and 194.
161 lamp = 2.66 watts, .19 ampere, rated 4000 hours, a.c.
Emergency use only for airheads.
168 lamp = 4.90 watts, .35 ampere, rated 1500 hours, a.c.
This is a particularly good sub for the GEN
lamp (/6 and later), as its
characteristics
ever so slightly enhance the starting of
charging.
193 lamp = 4.62 watts, .33 ampere, rated 5000 hours, a.c.
(rated at 14 volts too).
194 lamp = 3.78 watts, .27 ampere, rated 1500 hours, a.c.; a bit
less light than 168, 1500 hour life..
2825 lamp = This is a 5 watt Euro spec lamp, commonly found
in the U.S. .....12 volt rated, not 14 as
above lamps; 0.4
ampere,
and brighter than 168 and 194, and very nice, if pricey,
replacement for
them. NOT super long life. This
lamp develops too much heat,
IN MY ESTIMATION, for anything but
the GEN lamp usage.
2821 lamp = 12 volt rated, not 14. 0.25 ampere, light
output fair, only a slight bit more than the 194, and
not super
long life, but longer
than the bright 2825.
ANY of these bulbs will work adequately, the #168 and 2825
being a slightly better choice for the GEN lamp, wherein you want
charging
at the lowest rpm point where charging begins. Just a
WEE tad of help though. You WILL gain more low rpm electrical output by
using the latest 2.8
ohm rotor, if your rotor is an earlier
version, and use the electronic regulator. For the GEN lamp, one should
consider doing the resistor
modification which will help charging
slightly, and eliminate a charging problem if the lamp burns out
(rare as that is).
See the GEN
LAMP Circuit modification on this website.
Be cautious about the 2825 in other areas....due to the heat
developed.
In general an E- prefix means European standards, which may
or may not be better in some instances and is not overly
important.
Instrument lamp: #07-11-9-978-279, 12 volt, 2 watt. This is
the hardest lamp to substitute. This lamp
has what is
called a PHILLIPS base
(BA7S midget Bayonet Base...and a T2
tube...1/4" diameter).
The
"BA7s" base is 8.7 mm from top of locating tang to
bottom contact,
the barrel diameter is 7.0
mm, tube is 1/4"
diameter, and the width across the located tangs is 8.6 mm.
The ORIGINAL type
of lamp was called
a J12V/2W lamp in BMW literature.
Equivalents or substitutes for that lamp:
(1) GE 2696; Osram 3898; Philips 12829. These are all
12 volt, 0.167 ampere, 2 watt, and rated at
200 hours.
(2) It is not clear to me that the Eiko SE1274 would
fit. It is 12 volt, 0.125 ampere, 1.5 watt, but the
base is
BA7.5..I think...and uses
T-1-3/4 shaped
glass.
(3) There is also a Narva 101006 lamp, rated at 12 volts,
.17 ampere, 2.04 watts.
(4) The BA7s base lamps were also used on some old car
radios...and it is possible a repair shop
has some 12 volt lamps.
The following lamps rate their own section in this article:
Turn signal and brake lamps and running lamps, various uses, part numbers, etc:
12 volt, 21 watt
BMW #07-11-9-978-370, substitute is common #1156. The 1156 lamp is
rated 12 volts, 2.1 ampere, some books have it as 12.8 volts,
27 watts, 1200 hours (a.c.) (you will NOT get that number of hours)....which
is a BIT brighter...you probably won't notice. The 1156 lamp is also
available sometimes in both copper and plated bases and
sometimes in aluminum.
The 1156 has two guide pins directly opposite each other
and has a single contact base, and only ONE filament. The Euro
number for a close enough lamp is 7506. The 7506 is RATED at 13.5 volts,
for a "12 volt system".
That lamp is typically called a 21 watt lamp, and the Euro rating is 150 hours.
You won't get that, but it is vastly more accurate spec for life, than the 1200
hours specified for
similar lamps like the 1156, and even some 7506.
The above lamps are used for one-function use, such as just a turn signal, or
just a brake lamp. By the way, there is a 6 volt version, which is number 1129.
The 1157 lamp has the pins OFFSET in distance from the base, that is, one pin is
lower and one higher than the other. This was done so the lamp can only be
installed in one position, and allows the lamp to be used in a
dual contact, dual-function arrangement,
in which one side of the lamp is much higher powered than the other. The
high power section is the brake lamp, the low power section is the running
section. This type of lamp is used in conversions as well as original stock use,
for such as a low-power running lamp; with a separate filament for a bright
braking lamp. In conversions for modifying a turn signal for running and
turn use, this type of lamp is used most often.
For practical purposes,
the 1157 lamp is the same or similar to the 2157 and 7528. The 1156 and 1157 and 2157 lamps are close enough to the Euro lamp
equivalents (7506 and 7528) to be used most any time as substitutes. They are NOT true equivalents. NOTE that the European lamps with SILVER COLORED BASES are generally to be preferred over the American brass bases.
For those who have converted their turn signals to ADD a run function, the usual lamp used is
the double contact lamp, common
#1157 or 2157. The Euro number, better, and also available
at your autoparts store, is 7528.
These lamps vary a bit in the filament rating and light output, but the truth of
the matter is that it makes little difference, and how the specifications were
done makes this mess a bit complicated. Both the Euro and American
lamps are the same size, have the same basic structure,
but the way they are electrically and light output rated is a bit different, which makes things confusing.
Just go ahead and use whatever one you want. I am well-aware that others think differently.
The 7528 and 1157 & 2157 lamps have offset pins so they cannot be inserted wrongly into
the socket. The lamps have two sections, one is far brighter
(for TURN or BRAKE) than the other. The sections are: 12.8 volts, 2.1 ampere,
27 watts, 1200 hours; and, 14.0 volts, .59 ampere, 8.26
watts, 5000 hours. If your average speed is 40 mph,
1200 hours would give you 48,000
miles on these lamps. I
doubt you will get 10,000. I think a hundred hours might be good! But, that is normal for any highly stressed turn & brake lamps, stock or not. NOTE: some manufacturer's rate the 7528 lamp at 13.5 volts and 1.85 amperes, and the other section as 0.44 amperes.
The confusion occurs when one is dealing with these lamps in DC
circuits, AND in the real world. The 1157 lamp has one filament that is
rated for 12.8 volts, 2.1 amperes, 32 CP, and a supposed 1200 hour life.
You will NOT get that much before the filament fails. For turn signal and
brake lamp usage, that filament is hardly on very long each time you use it, but it won't last a long time.
The lower power filament is rated at 14 volts 0.59 amperes, 3CP, and 5000 hour
life....you won't get that life either.
IT IS THESE THAT ARE THE PREFERRED LAMPS!!!!:
P21/5W lamps are available at your autoparts store, part number 7528 Eiko; or
other mfr.
P21W Eiko number is 7506.
Rather often you will find the base of lamps stamped with 12 volts. That is not the lamp voltage rating, but the SYSTEM rating. What makes it even more confusing is that SOME lamp manufacturer's use the 12 volts in determining lamp life (perhaps A.C., perhaps D.C., they don't offer details). A lamp run on 12 volts AC will last terrifically long if it is not in an on-off situation too often, if it is not exposed to vibration too often, and if the REAL voltage rating is 12.8 or 13.5, or even 14.0.
K-bikes: The rear running lamp might
be an old #1077, the present number is 5008, and the lamp is 12
volts 10 watts 0.83 ampere.
BMW number was 07 11 9 905 337.
The rear brake lamp is rated at 21 watts, 12 volts 1.75 amperes.
The present number is
7506. There is another rating,
unlikely to be on bulb not package,
and that rating is 25 watts,
13.5 volts, 1.86 amperes.
The BMW number is 63 21 7 160 789
Back to Airheads:
The original function lamps, T-1-3/4 style, like
#07-11-9-978-375, were 1.2 watts, very close to the #73 long life
lamp, or the slightly
brighter #74 lamp. One could even use a #37
lamp, which is similar to the 73. Another lamp is the E2723,
rated at 2.3 watts. Sometimes
these smaller indicator lamps
are hard to find, and an electronics supply company may have them
in stock. You MAY find the E2723 at
autoparts stores,
sometimes the others. All these lamps can be used as the
high beam indicator, brake light failure, OIL, and neutral
indicators.
LED substitutes are now available, white
output, for these lamps. The power drain is only 0.32
watt, but they are VERY bright...but not
all that much of the
brightness is fully usable.
The 4 watt lamp 07-11-9-978-256
(the updated BMW number is 07-50-9-063-576) is used in two
places, the GEN lamp on the /5 bikes,
and in the Parking Lamp
position. When used in SOME models in the headlamp
REFLECTOR SHELL (on faired
RS/RT
models no lamp
was fitted, but CAN BE), they can be substituted, and also
with vastly brighter lamps if wanted.
BUT...some might want slightly weaker
lamps,
such as the #1893. The #1893 lamp can be
substituted for the 07-11-9-978-256. There are a
lot of these types of "standard miniature
bayonet"
lamps, such as 1889, 1895 (round bulb), 1891, 57 (round
bulb). Some folks do install these for
'daytime running'. Some folks have a headlight on/off switch, and use the parking lamp to save
watts, a 5 watt halogen used
here is very considerably brighter than the above lamps, and a 10 or
20 watt halogen is
VERY bright. Some Airheads are equipped with a
headlight switch
(depending on year and model, and Euro or not) that
makes
it possible to ride without the headlight on....probably illegal
for
some, but this is done anyway. It is possible to
make a small wiring
change at the ignition switch and have this
'side of reflector light'...and
the ignition....be ON in the PARK
position, and the headlight main bulb
on in the normal
position. Don't
use the 10 or larger watt
lamps for the RT/RS EYEBROW lamp,
use only for the small socket,
described, for the HEADLAMP
reflector. It may be possible (watch the heat!) to
use the 5 or 10 watt
halogen in the eyebrow position, but I
see no reason to even try
that, as you would not want to use that lamp for a daytime
headlight
function. The eyebrow lamp housing and lense does not
like
excessive heat. Some have removed that lamp, and
wired the eyebrow to
the place for the socket on the headlight
shell, and used a
Phillips Halogen lamp, 10W being 12024; 20 W
being 12452. See below for the 5 watt probably OK lamp.
Here is additional information on the higher powered lamps
for the headlight parking lamp position (remember, NOT in the
eyebrow light
of the RS/RT!...they are too HOT!):
Parking lamp bulb socket, in case yours is missing: BMW #62-14-8-680-130. If you want the wiring harness it is #61-12-1-358-176.
Osram Miniwatt #64111, also known as Sylvania
39431, and Philips 12023, halogen, 5 watt. This lamp may be
OK for use in
the eyebrow too.
Osram Miniwatt #64113, Philips 12024, halogen, 10 watt.
Osram Miniwatt ;Sylvania #64115, Philips 12452; Napa-Wagner
47835; Hella 78165; halogen, 20
watt.
NOTE: The 64111, 64113, and 64115 all
are the same size of physical lamp, they use a Euro base style
called a BA9s, and have a 9.3 mm
diameter bulb and MOL
(length) of 33.0 mm. All of these lamps are nominal 12.0
volt rated, and while I do not have life expectancies, I suspect
only a few hundred hours, but may be wrong on that.
Note that these halogen lamps are not overly common,
and prices
vary
CONSIDERABLY....even 2:1. You can find them by using Google.com by simply entering something like this
for a search
term: 64111 lamp
There are many possible other lamp substitutions possible for
various places on the motorcycle. I have information
available on many
lamp numbers.
The actual drain and power/light output of a lamp depends on the
ACTUAL measured voltage at the lamp itself.
Part 5: ....more on wiring, lamp life, etc:
Increasing the wire gauge size to the headlight, and/or using a
heavy duty relay (a relay is VASTLY better at this, and eliminates all high
currents at the hi/low stock switch), can brighten your headlight by
reducing voltage losses. The stock headlight (except early
/5 which had 40/45 watts) is 55/60 watts and the bars switch in particular will NOT hold up to larger lamps (80 watts probably for awhile, but not 100+) that one might put in the headlight shell....or for added headlamps; and, hence a heavy duty 20 or 30 ampere relay from a local auto-parts store, is relatively INexpensive and OK. NOTE!...use of a headlight modulator
with an INcreased lamp wattage size also means you should use a
relay.
Versatile relays that can work fine for most functions in your motorcycle, such as switching lamps, running horns, starting, etc., is the Bosch (now Tyco) 330-073, rated at 30/40 amperes and 12 volts, SPDT, 5 pin, with tab for screw (tab area can be removed); or the Blazer DF005 or DF005W which also has a tab/screw mounting.
There are OTHER considerations:
There are some things not usually discussed about changing the
wiring, adding relays, ETC., ....besides the need to do it neatly
and foolproof,
so that the bike can not burn up. On THAT
subject, one must avoid poor connections, bare wiring, places
rubbing could compromise the
insulation, and, of
course, have a FUSE!
IN almost every instance of adding one
or two relays; you will want a
direct to battery connection via a
fuse. Did you know that BMW does
not generally fuse the headlamp circuit?
BMW could have used larger gauge wires for the
lighting, and elected not to, and had
some safety reasons for what they did. I hope the following will
discuss more
factors and that I have not forgotten anything:
The light output of a lamp is increased only a
very small amount for a 5% increase in voltage, and that is
probably the improvement you
might make at the headlight with a
directly connected larger gauge wire, fuse, switch....or using
heavy wiring and a heavy duty relay. BUT
the LIFE of the lamp is probably decreased,
out of proportion to the smaller percentage increase in light.
This is a general property of
incandescent lights, including
halogen types (which are a bit less affected). Not only is the life decreased from
the lamp life otherwise obtained, but the lamp may get a
slightly
higher voltage AT turn-on, and the slightly higher inrush current
on a cold lamp may decrease life even more.
Typically, in an airhead,
with reasonably decent wiring, switch
contacts, etc., the headlight will see about 0.5 to 0.8 volt less
than the battery terminals will show. This is
a wee bit
less voltage, a couple or few tenths or so, than the voltage shown on
the fairing voltmeter, if you have one of those and it is
accurate (usually
they are accurate for the point at which they
are connected, which is NOT the battery). Those
voltmeters usually show 0.3 volt lower than a direct battery
terminal
measurement.
Lamps used in vehicles are not all rated at 12
volts. Some are rated at 12.8, or 14.0.
Some foreign, German too, lamps ARE rated at
12 volts nominally,
but the WAY they are rated and tested amounts to about the same
thing as U.S. lamps, in effect, so I will treat them the
same,
although they ARE differently rated. Yes, I know that
the Europeans and the U.S., has used slightly different voltages
on some, at
times...but the principal here holds up. The
14.0 volt rating is typically used for lamps that are ON all the
time the engine is running.
The headlight is a
special case though, and is not thusly rated. The 12.8
rating is generally for higher drain lamps that are used only for short
periods, such
as turn signals and brake lights. These
lamps usually have a much higher rated wattage than other small
lamps, such as clearance and running
lamps and dash lights, and
hence will put more of a load on the system, and typically the
engine is idling, or soon will be, or producing little electricity from the
alternator, and the manufacturer's KNOW that the voltage AT THE
LAMPS will thus be quickly reasonably close to that 12.8, and hence that
is the
rated voltage. I suspect that the lamps are overpowered on purpose, so are
brighter.
A case could be made by nerdy
engineer-types about the faster lighting-up, or the transient
period from high system voltage
to the decreased voltage...but I
won't get into that here. The headlamp is a special
case, and has complicated ratings, not easily found in
specification books.
When you raise the system voltage, whether by
an alternator conversion that increases the voltage at idle and certainly above, and/or, by higher
voltage regulator settings, larger
gauge wires, relays, etc.....you can expect shorter lamp
life. That is the tradeoff. There is another, more
minor
tradeoff, in that the DRAIN in watts will also be a bit
higher. You may find that all the special
wiring and relays, for the stock lamp, don't
make a lot of
difference. You can find out how much difference light output MIGHT be, by turning on the headlight, and
then
ADDING, temporarily, and
momentarily, a heavy duty (large gauge,
perhaps #16) wire from the
battery +
terminal directly to the energized headlight terminal. Do
this at idle
rpm, and also do it with the system at an rpm (and
battery fully charged) that has
the maximum system voltage. You will see the difference.
If your bike has larger voltage drops, you
probably need to attend to the various connections, plugs,
sockets, even relays and ignition
switch, etc. One
of the worst places for problems is the larger gauge red wire
connections at the starter relay, and at a
slightly loose starter
motor solenoid terminal nut that the large gauge battery wire connects to.
Other places often having problems
are the connections at the diode board.
Those who are running heated clothing during
the daytime, and are running at or near the limits of alternator
output, and do not wish to
spend the $$$ for the alternator
conversion, can consider a headlight modulator, which will save
quite a few watts (in effect)....besides
adding to your safety
(and annoying oncoming drivers, or them if in front of you...SOME will undoubtedly
say). Those with a lot of additional
headlight power and/or heated clothing SHOULD have the larger aftermarket alternators.
Part
6: HEADLIGHT
MODULATORS, in depth, and recommendations:
NOTE!!!!....I have an article on this website with the federal
law allowing modulators, and the technical details.
Headlight modulators; the Federal Law
authorizing them; the technical details
That is a clickable hyperlink
I LIKE Headlight Modulators. I always have mine
ON during the daytime, which means I have a blinking Hi Beam. Others hate
them, feel
they annoy folks. Frankly, the purpose is not to annoy, but
to attract attention, and they seem to do that fairly well,
although in
really bright sunlight your headlight is perhaps not
easy to see from an oncoming car driver's standpoint. But, that
is true for any headlight,
modulator or not. I think they
are just one more safety item. One of my
nicknames, from a Club I ride with now and then, is BLINKY...due
to my modulators. I had a
custom high power modulator on my sidecar tug (1983 R100RT), had
it for maybe 19 years. It was massive,
will power an aircraft landing light (don't ask!). Prior
to that bike, there was a home-made modulator on one of my R75/5 bikes. I
had a
Kisan unit on my solo bike (1984
R100RT), and I also put a Kisan modulator into Lilli's R80ST as a little
gift, and I have a Kisan modulator
on my K1100LT-EML sidecar
rig. The Kisan unit is available from quite a few
motorcycle dealers, and they are not cheap, retail is around
$100.00, but they are really trick, neat units. I've
installed dozens of them. They are programmable, neat-O,
and fairly reliable. Mount the
photocell unit cleverly. Ask
me, if you have questions on that.
Decades ago, modulators were of all sorts of types and
usages. Now, the frequency, duration, etc., of the
headlight period on versus off is
specified in Federal Law.
Also specified is the use on only the high beam.
Oversimplified here, but close enough. Because of the
Federal law,
and Federal money into the States' road systems,
headlight modulators for motorcycles are approved in every
State. Some States have their
own laws, but I don't know of
any that negate the federal requirements, I suppose that is
possible on non-federal roads, but have heard of
no problems. So, for practical matters, they are legal
everyplace in the USA. If you want to make your own modulator,
some schematics are on
the www.ibmwr.org
website. One version will modulate either beam, as it is
inserted into the stock headlamp ground circuit.
A CLEVER headlight modulator comes from
the company called KISAN (KisanTech).
These are simple to install, since they are a wafer
affair that
simply plugs into the rear of the headlamp bulb, then you plug in
the regular cable. There is NO wiring to connect to power or
ground, etc. The Kisan unit has another cable, that
is thin and long enough, it plugs into the wafer unit on some
models, and the other end of the cable is the
photocell, a
Federal requirement. The unit automatically works on
only the high beam because of how the plug is made; and, will not operate
at night
due to the photocell. The photocell has three
sensitivities and you program the unit, if you have to (usually
not), by simply turning the ignition key rapidly
on and off per the booklet
that comes with every unit. It is very easy to
install.
I like the design, obviously, since I have
installed dozens. I also can recommend another type, from EasternBeaver.com. That company sells a relay kit that is nearly plug and play...easy installation, and fused too.
Because there are several types of
headlight bulbs used on motorcycles, one has to get the proper
Kisan model. They handle up to a 100
watt lamp.
In operation, you still have the various stock functions of your
bar switches.
Due to a peculiarity of the halogen H4 headlight bulb, your headlight, on the high beam at least, will probably last LONGER, generally, with the modulator. NOTE!....Light output is improved with a headlight modulator only by using a heavy duty relay. You don't HAVE TO do that, however, as the light output increase is rather small or modest. HOWEVER, if you are using a high wattage lamp (over 70 watts), then it is a must to install a relay, to protect the bars switch. You can do this with one or two Bosch relays yourself, or just buy EasternBeaver's modulator with relays. If just wanting relays on the stock headlight, they also have a nice relay package.
Somewhat technical:.....
(1) A modulator can
be made in two standards ways. In one method, the
modulator is turned on, then fully off, at a roughly 4 Hertz
rate.
In another method, the Federal law specifies this, the
modulator does not fully turn off during the flashing mode. Many
a modulator does not
conform, and has no need to, since the
visual effect is about the same!...this is due to the inertia of
the filament of the lamp.
On a practical basis it makes NO difference about turn-on and turn-off, as the
rate of flashing is fast enough, and equal enough in time
between on and less on or off periods, that the bulb filament
never 100% cools off. The law was wishy-washy on how it was
worded...does headlight power mean electric or light
output?
(2) The flashing mode is officially, by law, set at 4 Hz to annoy (become more recognized...) the brain alpha rhythms...or some such.
(3) ONE OTHER good thing comes from
the use of a modulator. Since the period of time the
modulator is ON is changed, the
EFFECTIVE use of WATTS from
your charging system is REDUCED (call it average watts if you want to). I have not made a
quantitative study of this, but you should
gain 20 to 30 watts effectively. There is also a VERY SMALL voltage drop in the
unit, but it has only a FAINT effect on light output and
drain.
I happen to like things
that add to safety, and I THINK these modulators DO, very considerably. The
lamps last longer; and,
you get some additional watts from the
alternator on high beam
daytime use.
NOTE that Jim at http://www.Easternbeaver.com
has a lot of interesting goodies, including
relays for when you use higher powered lamps
or just want more solid voltage to your headlight. LOTS of
good wiring things on that site, and Jim is a good guy to boot.
He has a very
clever combination modulator and relays setup, almost plug and
play, that does it all for you.
I prefer, however, and ESPECIALLY with MUCH higher power lamps, to use one or two separate relays, of the 20 or 30 ampere autoparts store type.
Part 7: Resources, etc.:
The above URL's has a lot of lamp information,
but I do not agree with some minor portions of them;..for
instance the inference that
DC and AC life is not all that
different....other places here....but GOOD stuff otherwise.
NOTE! For those installing extra lamps, or have
specific reasons to replace an existing
flasher
unit,....ETC.....there is a heavy duty flasher unit available at
auto-parts stores, under the SignalStat brand, model 263.
Mechanical and electrical. Flash rate is 60 to 120 per
minute, has 3 each 1/4" male spades, is 1.33" round, 1.35" high,
works on 11-15 volts, and from well below freezing to damned hot.
It will handle 20 ampere loads!! It is a very good idea to know what you are doing when installing a substitute flasher!
Versatile relays that can work fine for most functions in your motorcycle, such as switching lamps, running horns, starting, etc., is the Bosch (now Tyco) 330-073, rated at 30/40 amperes and 12 volts, SPDT, 5 pin, with tab for screw (tab area can be removed); or the Blazer DF005 or DF005W which also has a tab/screw mounting.
Revisions:
to 02/03/2003: clarifications:
headlamp shell, use of 9003 in /5; minor additions to
descriptions;
headlamp and eyebrow lamps usage
and add socket and
harness numbers.
04/17/2003: add .htm title; clarifications here and there.
07/13/2003: /5 large alternator information clarified; add
2825, 2821, and some notes on these types;
resources URL's.
09/15/2003: lots of clarifications and includes LED
indicators information, more links.
11/22/2003: Clarify 20 watt lamp and part numbers
01/03/2004: revise in several places for clarity, add
section on wire gauges, relays, and in-depth lamp life
considerations. Add -24 ID to top of article
04/03/2004 : Greatly expand section on side headlight shell
information; also add #64198 for /5; edit
entire article a bit.
08/25/2004: minor updates, comments on 2825
10/29/2004: add part 3.
07/05/2005: lamp information updated for 64115
03/23/2006: slight updating
03/25/2006: more lamp substitutions for BMW -279.
03/26/2006: final extensive editing
02/07/2007: minor editing, mostly for clarity
01/08/2008: fix URL's; add Eastern Beaver information; and
revise the modulator section
06/26/2008: add Osram 64205 information
11/03/2008: add more information on PIAA and other headlamp bulbs
06/21/2009: Recheck article. Minor clarity improvements
07/13/2009: Add hyperlink to article with the federal
modulators law
08/28/2009: Add paragraph in two places on lamp sockets and their numbers.
09/15/2009: add a bit more information on the 64205 and
64206 lamps....and later in the day, add more
information on high
temperature
sockets for H4 lamps....and, more, on 09/16/2009.
10/21/2009: Add sketch of H4 lamp base and revise article
for more clarity.
12/05/2009: Add Signal Stat information
02/18/2010: clear up wrong or misleading information on the
4 watt lamps; and add the -576 later part
number too.
04/20/2010: remove mbz hyperlink
11/17/2010: Clean up article of typos, extended line
lengths in certain places, clarity, etc.
05/09/2011: Add information on Eastern Beaver's ceramic
sockets
07/04/2011: Add K bike rear run and brake lamp information
05/13/2012: Add information on headlight specific lumens @ specific
voltages, update other areas (minor)
06/08/2012: Expand the section on 1156, 1157, 7506, 7528 lamps, to explain
the confusion as best I can.
09/18/2012: Fix typo on 7528 lamps (in one place was listed as 7527) and expand the alternator voltage
and current on that 7528, as not all manufacturer's rate it at the same voltage.
Add QR code and update Google code
01/07/2013: Add more information on voltage, life, Euro versus USA, and
explanations.
05/16/2013: Review and update article.
© Copyright, 2013, R. Fleischer