Lamps
©
lamps.htm-24A
This article
covers lamp theory, lamp substitutions, updating the /5
headlight, adding relays, fuses, LED
instrument lamps, large
headlights, special sockets, heavier gauge
wiring, HEADLIGHT MODULATORS, ETC.
It does not,
yet, cover HID nor LED HEADLAMP lamp substitutions, although I discuss them, SOMEwhat.
It is my feeling that LED headlamps are not yet ready for prime
time; and there are plenty of
problems in using HID headlights, particularly turn-on times if
going from low to high beam
and the high beam is HID; plus, reflector problems.
PLEASE
see article 24B, that discusses the headlight relay, the internal
diode,
the handlebars switch, and how they all work
together. It is NOT so simple,
and that article
information IS needed to understand using larger wattage
lamps,
relays, ETC.
PART 1:
BMW stock lamps are arguably perhaps the best for
your bike; except for the non-halogen
early /5 headlight lamp & lens/reflector
assembly, which is
vastly improved by upgrading the lamp, lens, and reflector; by
using the original BMW conversion kit parts;
or, cheaper, from an
R65....or using a special
64198 lamp.
It is up to YOU to decide, for one reason or another, to make a
substitution or change or modification. Perhaps you
are on the road and
cannot find the correct lamp. Perhaps you
want them brighter or want to add a lamp.
Note that some lamps are direct equivalents,
such as the 9003
headlight bulb (for after the early /5, or the
converted /5)...and there are subs available for taillights,
instrument and
indicator lamps. Many substitutes will fit in
existing sockets and are quite adequate for use. When
substituting a lamp it is a good
idea to THINK about such things
as life expectancy, light output, AND heat
output. Also be aware that whilst the
9003 is a generic number, the Euro lamp versions are generally of
better quality and light pattern and output.
***The early
unconverted /5, that is, stock, used a 40/45 watt headlamp, and
it was NOT a halogen lamp. It is possible to obtain
a H4
in higher power that fits the /5 socket. That is
GENERALLY not a great idea with the original lens and reflector,
as the light pattern will
be so-so,
an effect of the glass lens...and the reflector...but SOME folks
may like it.
NOTE: German or other foreign
auto-parts stores
might carry
the 60/55 watt halogen lamp type #64198, an Osram number, which
has a filament arrangement that
will work OK with
the stock /5 reflector and lens. see below
PERHAPS it would be better to just use the Kit BMW offered for
this (likely NLA); or, the reflector and lens of a R65 ...which will adapt
at much less
cost and works well with common H4 halogen lamps. The stock 180 watt /5 alternator is
adequate. It is possible to
update the alternator to a 280 watt unit if one has lots of electrical needs, but only a
specific size (105 mm stator) fits the /5 engine
casting,
and that particular stator housing is from some
of the 1974-1975 model years. However, a high powered
alternator to fit all
airheads, including the /5, is available,
alled the EnDuraLast....available in 105 mm size for the
/5, and 107 mm for later models. You can
also
consider the Omega alternator which has even higher output.
NOTE that the early headlight chrome rings
were not screw/clamp fastened, and many have been lost along the
road, and it is best to
fashion a method to secure them at the
very bottom.
The BMW 55/60 watt halogen H4 headlight lamp (similar to common
type 9003 and really same as BP1260-H4) is often changed by
owners to much higher
wattage units. Be very cautious about this,
as not only is the airhead alternator output not overly generous,
but the
handlebar light switch
is NOT rated for those larger
lamps, and therefore it is a MUST
to use a heavy duty relay (the autoparts store
Bosch 20 or 30 ampere relays are
not expensive and are fine for this), using the original light
switch output for the relay coil. You can do
this conversion with
ONE relay, if that relay is "SPDT", which means Single
Pole Double Throw. No hard and fast rules here on how to
wire and use the relay(s) and switch gear, installations vary,
depending on what you want to do/have. The second section
of this article
has more to say on this matter.
#9003 lamps work fine for stock usage...and there are many
variations, some of which throw better
light
patterns. The Eastern Beaver company makes
nifty relay kits, that PLUG IN!..but I am not a fan of them for
higher power lamps,
feeling that the contacts in these relays are not heavy-duty
enough, although, to be fair, most seem to hold up just fine.
***NOTE! You
probably have an airhead with the high beam flashing switch on
the left end of the handlebar. That switch
is part of the
Hi/Lo selector. You really do need to be aware of a
peculiarity. The Hi/Lo switch section, in the stock
bike
wiring, handles the headlight's full current flow.
That is why one or two relays is added if you install a headlight
that is over
maybe 70 watts, so that the switch does not wear out
quickly. BUT, the push-to-flash section is a
partially separate circuit.
Thus, just how you wire up your
relay (s) is important.
The best H4 lamp I
have found, to be used with stock OR relays, is the Osram lamp 64205, it is
rated at 65/70 watts. It has a very
nice output, and at
1350/2000 lumens too.
Brighter is the higher powered 64206 at 80/85 watts and 1750/2400
lumens. The
standard legal
lamp is 64193 at 60/55 watts. The rated life for these
lamps is 100/200 hours when at 13.2 volts, under normal
automotive type
use. Expect somewhat less on a vibrating bike...but this depends a lot on
the bike.....and especially on the
voltage. If the voltage AT the lamp
BASE is more like 12.5 or so, then the lamp will last a LOT LONGER. THE
REVERSE
IS TRUE, the lamp life going DOWNward, very fast too, for a rather
modest increase in voltage. Lamps, when compared to
the rated lamp
voltage, have a relatively small light DEcrease with a small voltage DEcrease.
If your lamp runs at 14.2 volts,
the
lamp life will be shortened, but, frankly, I prefer that voltage
for lamp performance.
Here is a place that seems to stock these lamps; I have no experience with the company:
This is how an H4 lamp is internally connected.
In actuality, it applies to just about all similar
3 terminal lamps.
The blue lamps and other high priced trick
lamps may SEEM brighter, but if you are in an oncoming car, you
may think differently.....claims
of 100 watt output for 55 or 60
watts of power are dead flat wrong and misleading.
PIAA is one of the worst cases, their advertising is, in a lot of instances,
bogus. The eye is much more sensitive to certain colors. The eye's
sensitivity to yellowish-green is quite interesting, but we do not have
headlights of that color...because whilst the light would be very visible
to the
drivers of other vehicles, the light would not illuminate the
ground/highway/etc., for the driver of the car with those yellow-green lamps.
It is altogether way too easy to confuse the buying public with claims that are
either unproven, downright incorrect....or, that mix up these two:
1. illumination of the road, etc. for the DRIVER.
2. illumination of the oncoming vehicle for recognition.
Those two items are NOT ONE AND THE SAME THING.
On top of that, and somewhat part of them, our brains are 'annoyed' MORE by some
'colors'....which, at the same time, may....and often do
NOT ....provide better
clarity, visibility, etc. "The" prominent example is the bluish
light from blue-coated H4 and H3 type lamps. The light
output is not
nearly the same from those bulbs as the spectrum of light from modern HID
lighting in cars; which they were designed to
SEEM to copy. The blue
coating lets more blue of certain frequencies through...but greatly removes the
amount of wider spectrum light that
might give YOU, the driver of that vehicle,
more information about things the light lands on. But, to your
brain, just looking briefly at the
lighted area, especially if the beam is
focused differently, may 'trick' you into thinking that the blue lamps are
better than the clear ones. THAT
is the sneaky thing about these blue
coated lamps.
Some manufacturer's will also change the guides and director metal bits inside
the lamps and provide what you THINK is brighter light, but is
a different
dispersal.....and the beam cutoffs barely are legal. Some are not
legal....some
have too much power and are illegal...and some have
almost no, or actually no,
beam cutoffs, and are very illegal, and blind oncoming drivers. There were some lamps being sold that changed the
FOCUS point, by changing the
distance between reflector (which you cannot change) and lamp element....not
sure if those are still on the market.
In some instances the better quality European-spec headlamp bulbs are noticeably
better than the cheaper domestic lamps. The BEST lamp
I know of, and not
sure where to buy them anymore, is the Osram 64205....I think it was a 70/65 H4,
at 2000 lumens high beam and 1350
on low beam. Very well made lamp, and
just perfect on the beam and color.
The blue coated PIAA lamps (and their many imitators) are awful; and most have
no idea, and think them better. It is proven by many tests
of many
types...which is likely contrary to what some of you think. AND...I
don't blame you for thinking that way....even if NOT influenced
by the
advertising.
****Headlight bulbs run very hot, and the H4
halogen lamps use a type of quartz glass that you
must NOT touch with your fingers, which
leave often
invisible skin oils on the lamp, which shorten the lamp life. If
you have handled the lamp glass, clean it with
alcohol. This is a good
policy for any lamp.
****The stock headlight lamp
sockets are perfectly capable of handling the stock lamps (and, the /5 only socket will handle
higher powered lamps); however, when you increase the wattage of the headlight lamp (and you'll use relays, riiiiight!!??!!)...then
you are advised, for /6 and later, to use a socket that handles more heat. The /5 socket was 63-12-8-650-145. A substitute could
be the NAPA LS6235, around $6.
That number is listed in Napa literature now as under the ECHLIN electrical's section...and
the Napa number in the catalog is ECH LS6235. It appears to be bakelite and have ~14 gauge
wire, 3 each black, maybe 6-1/2" long. Hi/Lo/Ground is
marked on the socket. It seems well constructed.
Another socket is the Autozone 84790, called a high
temperature
socket....I was told it was ceramic, which would
be the best way to go (if it is....but someone reported to me
that it is
actually 482°F nylon; 3 colored wires, and a rubber
boot is included)...that would be OK, but I have not tested the
socket.
****Headlight reflectors and inside the glass,
will get fogged up by dirt, etc., over a long period of time, and
should be cleaned with alcohol
mixed with a drop of detergent and
in some water, and then flushed with clear water. Allow
to dry VERY thoroughly before
installing the
lamp, etc. I do not try to separate the
glass part, I do my cleaning through the lamp hole. Try not
to use Windex or similar, with ammonia!
Roy Truelsen, once a Member of the Airheads LIST, posted
information to the Airheads Mailing LIST about using larger, more
powerful
lamps, particularly for the instruments/pod. His
articles are probably still in the Archives and probably still on
the Club's .org website. Keep
in mind that an
incandescent lamp has a very hot piece of metal inside, and that
metal will radiate HEAT. The wattage rating of a lamp is the
power INput to the lamp, and that power is directly proportional
to HEAT. Some lamps are rated only in voltage and current.
Multiply voltage
times amperes to get watts. It is possible that
too powerful a lamp will do some heat damage to your lamp socket
area. In fact, that is QUITE
possible. I have
theorized that using some such larger lamps that have SO MUCH
extra heat, that they are not only going to melt or deform
the
plastics in the area, but may well detract from life of such as
the tach and speedometer/odometer. The later HEADLAMP
sockets are
not good with large lamps...early ceramic ones are
fine. I have NOT tested all the possible
combinations of higher wattage lamps for any heat
or other
problems in the instruments, nor eyebrow area of the RS/RT.
Part
II
LED's:
NOTE that very bright white LED lamps that fit
the indicator sockets on some pod models are now available
reasonably priced. However,
some give insufficient light
output, some are not 12 volt rated, and most do not mount in the
original sockets....some that do are now available.
Note also that LED lamps do not always
project much light to the sides and also that they do not work in
flasher circuits in which the flasher
unit is load dependent,
without additional changes. BMW has used a number of
different flasher circuits on our Airheads...for some, the
LED 12
volt lamps, or ones with added resistors work just
fine on most /6 and later bikes. Many types of LED's and multiple LED lamp
assemblies are available commercially. BE cautious about
their use, especially for the rear tail light. There
are some LED lamp arrays, that
project to sides and forward, and I have seen some that were
quite good, for the turn signals, and even in converting to
turn/running lamps.
Modifying to LED instrument lamps is not necessarily always
an improvement. It is pretty easy to remove a pod and
replace lamps every
few years anyway. You hardly save much
in wattage either. It is true that a LED lamp usually
lasts almost forever, if properly powered.
It may, however,
be hard to see, especially in the daytime.
NO LED headlights I have
tested are OK...so far! I expect that some will be
available,
at a high price, by 2010, but using them in the stock reflector
may be a real problem.
PART
III:
Miscl stuff:
***NOTE that if your bike has one stock rear running lamp, and it
fails, you have NO light to the rear...at all, unless you have
running lamps that
have been added.
Conversion of the turn indicators to have an additional running
lamp function is relatively easy, and an article is posted at
this
website:
addingrunninglamps.htm
There are pros and cons to this conversion. The strongest
argument AGAINST the conversion is that
the turn signal portion
MIGHT NOT be as visible, when the running lamp is
illuminated. It is actually possible to defeat that, but is
complicated.
When a common lamp fails it is almost always
because the filament broke from being thinned by many hours of
usage, or
stretched/sagged, or all
these things, over a long period of
time. You can generally identify a lamp that is thinking about
dying, as the filament is visibly sagging. This is
particularly
noticeable in the turn signal and taillight lamps. Thus,
regularly, you should visually inspect the lamps. This
is highly recommended
for the rear running and brake light(s). Sudden
failure is usually brought about by a characteristic of the wire
filament in incandescent lamps.
The internal lamp
filament wire, a type of tungsten, has a far lower resistance
when cold, than when hot. Thus, at the instant the power is
applied
to the cold lamp filament, the 'inrush' current is very
large, and the thinned or otherwise weakened area of the filament
fails. As the wire breaks,
if the spacing between the broken ends
is small enough, and the time that small spacing exists is long
enough, the lamp might arc. The lamp
MIGHT draw a large current
at that time....and in RARE instances, blow a fuse. This effect
is FAR more prominent in higher voltage lamps,
such as in your
house, where the breaking is accompanied often by a bright flash
of light due to the arcing. NOTE that
when the turn signals are
flashing on and off, that type of
on-off usage detracts greatly from their official life
expectancy. Strangely, not so with the Halogen lamps.
Note also that book values for lamp life are most
often based on AC, not DC, and for NO vibration. At least this is
so for American numbers.
It is VERY UNclear if all vehicle
lamps are rated for DC.
A very special case is a halogen headlight
bulb, where a headlight modulator MIGHT even INcrease its life.
For extremely complex reasons,
a halogen headlight bulb may last
LONGER with a modulator, IF the modulator does NOT allow the lamp
to cool too much between 'pulses'.
A rate of about 2.5 to 4 per
second, even if fully off and fully on voltage is applied, is
near the optimum for both life AND eye catching
potential!
Use of modulators is deemed a strong
SAFETY DEVICE by ME, although others dislike them, feeling that
they annoy oncoming drivers; and some
have very strong feelings about being in front of someone with
flashing lights. Use of proper types of
HEADLIGHT modulators are legal in all
States, and is codified
into Federal Law for motorcycles.
GENERALLY, a higher voltage-rated
lamp will last MUCH longer, in a circuit that has LESS
than that lamp's rated voltage, at very little cost in
light
output. The rule of thumb on LIFE of lamps rated for A.C., is
that the AVERAGE life will be HALF the book value AT BEST.
Life is
vastly shorter if a AC rated lamp is used on DC.
BUT...notice!!: life INcreases GENERALLY at the 12th
(some books say 8th) POWER of the INcrease in the voltage rating
of the lamp,
above actual circuit voltage. The DEcrease in life if a lamp has excessive voltage applied to it is
vastly faster, percentage-wise. Thus,
over-voltage application to lamps means a SHORT
life. The voltage measured AT the rear brake lamp, or
headlamp, or any lamp, is
ALWAYS going to be a bit BELOW the
measured BATTERY voltage, and probably a bit below the fairing
voltmeter....by a typical
0.4 volt OR MORE. THUS, a battery
might be floating during cruising at 14.0 volts, the voltmeter
read 13.7, and the brake light when
illuminated be actually at
13.2 volts. This has an effect on lamp life,
referring to the RATED voltage of the lamp...which is likely 12.8
for
the BRAKE lamp filament. Typically, then, BRAKE
lamps don't last long.
To restate this a bit clearer, if a lamp is being run at a
slight DEcrease in voltage than it is rated for, the light output
will be almost
UNnoticeably lower, but the LIFE will be greatly
extended, and vice versa! NOTE that whilst life of normal
NON-halogen lamps
increases, continually, as voltage is dropped,
not so the halogen....which, if temperature drops enough, will
start to lose life....on a
complicated curve, which then, as
voltage continues downward, increases life, again. The area
of DEcrease is generally under 11
socket measured volts, so is of
no real effect for our bikes.
DC (direct current...battery power) operation of lamps REDUCES
lamp life. Lamps are generally rated by the manufacturer using
AC
(alternating current) power. It is UNclear if headlamps, or even
other vehicle lamps are also rated thusly. Yes, this is peculiar,
because many lamps, not just headlamps, are designed for
vehicles, that hardly have AC systems driving the lamps. There
are some
exceptions. My old Vespa had both a DC output for
the battery, coil ignition, and tailight, and an AC output
strictly for the headlight.
I have had antique radios
come into my shop that have AC on their dial lamps, and the
lamps are original, and the radio has been in
use for 70 years,
at RATED lamp voltage.
Put yet another way: if a lamp is used at its RATED voltage, one
MIGHT, under ideal, non-vibratory, constantly
left on, alternating
current operation, obtain its
average rated life. If the voltage is lowered by 10%, or the lamp
is rated at 10% higher voltage than it is
being used at, then the
life goes up exponentially. The reverse is true also, BUT the
effect is FAR faster! This means that using a lamp
with higher
than rated voltage reduces life VERY quickly. The
measured LIGHT output of a lamp is affected only very slightly,
by a
10% change in voltage. However,
for headlight use, with halogen lamps, where the effect of
voltage is faster, it is sometimes worthwhile
to use larger gauge wire, relays, more direct wiring, etc., to
raise the voltage half a volt or more...or to protect expensive
handlebar switches
(particularly with larger wattage
lamps). Note that most all modulators DEcrease
headlight voltage very SLIGHTLY, decreasing actual light
SLIGHTLY....and thereby this modulator usage by simply the
SLIGHTLY lower voltage ALSO extends life. This effect is
very low, however,
on modern modulators.
ONE MORE way to think about this: If your
voltage regulator is set for 14.9 volts (the upper limit for a
Panasonic type of battery), you
might expect MUCH less life on your
lamps. They will be somewhat brighter
though. Probably 14.2 is a nice value for most
batteries
as a compromise. Certainly, the 13.8 that
is often found will extend lamp life.
You can expect your BRAKE and TURN lamps to have
REDUCED life
with over 14 volts. I still recommend 14.2 to 14.4 volts
for the readings AT the battery TERMINALS.
A lamp with 50%-100% greater instrument-measured (or specified)
light output will NOT look all that much brighter to your
eye.
PART
IV:
Lamp equivalents and/or
substitutions:
Various lamps in the
airhead can be substituted WITHOUT problems. Many folks
know that the rear running lamp,
BMW 07-11-9-978-227, rated at a
NOMINAL 12 volt and 5 watts, can be substituted by a very
commonly available #97
lamp, which is rated at 13.5 volts at .69
ampere, which means that at THAT voltage, it would draw 9.3
watts. There are
substitutes for EVERY lamp. Some are OK, some
perhaps not.
The Alternator lamp is rated at 12 volts
and 3 watts, part number
07-11-9-978-372. The 2825 lamp will offer
more
brightness, and a bit more alternator output at the lower
initial rpm area. You can also use the common #168,
etc...see
below. There is an article on this website
on adding a resistor in case the lamp fails...which usually stops
the alternator from ANY
output. The article is the genlampresistor.htm
article.
Regarding the substitution of #193, #194, #168, #161, #158 used
in the instruments:
These lamps are described officially as style T 3-1/4 and used at
the tachometer, speedometer, turn signal indicator, GEN.
158 lamp = 2.80 watts, .20 ampere, rated 500 hours, a.c. (may be
rated at 13v and .24 ampere), about the same light output as a
193 and 194
161 lamp = 2.66 watts, .19 ampere, rated 4000 hours, a.c.
emergency use only for airheads.
168 lamp = 4.90 watts, .35 ampere, rated 1500 hours, a.c.
This is a particularly good sub for the GEN lamp, as its
characteristics
ever so slightly enhance the starting of
charging.
193 lamp = 4.62 watts, .33 ampere, rated 5000 hours, a.c.
(rated at 14 volts too).
194 lamp = 3.78 watts, .27 ampere, rated 1500 hours, a.c.; a bit
less light than 168, 1500 hour life..
2825 lamp = This is a 5 watt Euro spec lamp, commonly also found
in the U.S. .....12 volt rated, not 14 as above lamps; 0.4
ampere,
and brighter than 168 and 194, and very nice, if pricey,
replacement for them. NOT super long life. This
lamp develops too much heat,
IN MY ESTIMATION, for anything but
the GEN lamp usage.
2821 lamp = 12 volt rated, not 14. 0.25 ampere, light
output fair, only a slight bit more than the 194, and not super
long life, but longer
than the bright 2825
ANY of these bulbs will work adequately, the #168 and 2825
being a slightly better choice for the GEN lamp, wherein you want
charging
at the lowest rpm point where charging begins. Just a
WEE tad of help though. You WILL gain more performance by
using the latest 2.8
ohm rotor, if your rotor is an earlier
version, and use the electronic regulator. For the GEN lamp, one should
consider doing the resistor
modification which will help charging
slightly, and eliminate a charging problem if the lamp burns out
(rare as that is).
See the GEN
LAMP Circuit modification on this website.
Be cautious about the 2825 in other areas....due to the heat
developed.
In general an E- prefix means European standards, which may
or may not be better in some instances and is not overly
important.
Instrument lamps #07-11-9-978-279, 12 volt, 2 watt. This is
the hardest lamp to substitute. This lamp has what is
called a PHILLIPS base
(BA7S midget Bayonet Base...and a T2
tube...1/4" diameter). The
"BA7s" base is 8.7 mm from top of locating tang to
bottom contact,
the barrel diameter is 7.0 mm, tube is 1/4"
diameter, and the width across the located tangs is 8.6 mm.
Equivalents or substitutes for that lamp:
(1) GE 2696; Osram 3898; Philips 12829. These are all
12 volt, 0.167 ampere, 2 watt, and rated at 200 hours.
(2) It is not clear to me that the Eiko SE1274 would
fit. It is 12 volt, 0.125 ampere, 1.5 watt, but the base is
BA7.5..I think...and uses
T-1-3/4 shaped
glass.
(3) There is also a Narva 101006 lamp, rated at 12 volts,
.17 ampere, 2.04 watts.
(4) The BA7s base lamps were also used on some old car
radios...and it is possible a repair shop has some 12 volt lamps.
Turn signal and brake lamps: 12 volt, 21 watt
#07-11-9-978-370, substitute is common #1156. The 1156 lamp is
rated 12 volts, 2.1 ampere,
27 watts, 1200 hours (a.c.)....which
is a BIT brighter...you probably won't notice.
For those who have converted their turn signals to be turn and
run lamps, the usually used lamp is a double contact lamp, common
#1157.
That lamp has two sections, one is far brighter
(TURN) than the other. The sections are: 12.8 volts, 2.1 ampere,
27 watts, 1200 hours
(a.c.); and, 14.0 volts, .59 ampere, 8.26
watts, 5000 hours (a.c.). If your average speed is 40 mph,
1200 hours would give you 48,000
miles on these lamps. I
doubt you will get 10,000, of course. But, that is normal
for any highly stressed turn and brake lamps, stock or not.
The original function lamps, T-1-3/4 style, like
#07-11-9-978-375, were 1.2 watts, very close to the #73 long life
lamp, or the slightly
brighter #74 lamp. One could even use a #37
lamp, which is similar to the 73. Another lamp is the E2723,
rated at 2.3 watts. Sometimes
these smaller indicator lamps
are hard to find, and an electronics supply company may have them
in stock. You MAY find the E2723 at
autoparts stores,
sometimes the others. All these lamps can be used as the
high beam indicator, brake light failure, OIL, and neutral
indicators.
LED substitutes are now available, white
output, for these lamps. The power drain is only 0.32
watt, but they are VERY bright...but not
all that much of the
brightness is fully usable.
***In a few instances, such as some brake light (stop light)
bulbs, the bulb is rated at 12.8 volts. It is possible for more
than that voltage
to be on that bulb in actual use, further
decreasing life, but typically not too much more, as there are
voltage drops in the wiring and
connections. What
happens is that the brake lamp drain is high enough such that the
system voltage drops somewhat, much more so by
the time you are
stopped, engine is at idle rpm. Still, do NOT expect long
life from turn and brake lamps.
The normally 4 watt parking lamp 07-11-9-978-256 when used in
SOME models in the headlamp REFLECTOR SHELL (on the faired
RS/RT
models no lamp was fitted, but CAN BE), can be fitted with
substitutions, and also vastly brighter lamps.
Some might want weak
lamps, such as the #1893. There are a
lot of these types of "standard miniature
bayonet" lamps, such as 1889, 1895, 1891, 57 (round
lamp on
the 57and 1895). Some folks do this for
'daytime running'. Some folks have a headlight on/off
switch, and use this lamp to save
watts, a 5 watt halogen used
here is considerably brighter, and a 10 or 20 watt halogen is
quite bright. Some Airheads are equipped with a
headlight switch
(depending on year and model, and Euro or not) that makes
it possible to ride without the headlight on....probably illegal
for
some, but this is done anyway. It is possible to
make a small wiring change at the ignition switch and have this
'side of reflector light'...and
the ignition....be ON in the PARK
position, and the headlight main bulb on in the normal
position. Don't
use the 10 or larger watt
lamps for the RT/RS EYEBROW lamp,
use only for the small socket, described, for the HEADLAMP
reflector. It may be possible to
use the 5 or 10 watt
halogen in the eyebrow position, but I see no reason to even try
that, as you would not want to use that for a daytime
headlight
function. The eyebrow lamp housing does not like
excessive heat. Some have removed that lamp, and
wired the eyebrow to
the place for the socket on the headlight
shell, and used a Phillips Halogen lamp, 10W being 12024; 20 W
being 12452.
FYI: Stock 4 watt: BMW 07-11-9-978-256.
Small radio lamps: The 1893 is similar to the original 4
watt; other numbers usable are 1891, 1895, 1889.
Here is additional information on the higher powered lamps
for the headlight parking lamp position (remember, NOT in the
eyebrow light
of the RS/RT!...they are too HOT!):
Parking lamp bulb socket, in case yours is
missing: BMW #62-14-8-680-130; if you want the wiring
harness it is
#61-12-1-358-176
Osram Miniwatt #64111, also known as Sylvania
39431, and Philips 12023, halogen, 5 watt. This lamp may be
OK for use in
the eyebrow too.
Osram Miniwatt #64113, Philips 12024, halogen, 10 watt.
Osram Miniwatt ;Sylvania #64115, Philips 12452; Napa-Wagner
47835; Hella 78165; halogen, 20
watt.
NOTE: The 64111, 64113, and 64115 all
are the same size of physical lamp, they use a Euro base style
called a BA9s, and have a
9.3 mm diameter of bulb and MOL
(length) of 33.0 mm. All of these lamps are nominal 12.0
volt rated, and while I do not have life e
xpectancies, I suspect
only a few hundred hours, but may be wrong on that.
Note that these halogen lamps are not overly common,
and prices
vary CONSIDERABLY....even 2:1. You can find them by using Google.com by simply entering something like this
for a search
term: 64111 lamp
There are many possible other lamp substitutions possible for
various places on the motorcycle. I have information
available on many
lamp numbers.
The actual drain and power/light output of a lamp depends on the
ACTUAL measured voltage at the lamp itself.
Part IV....more on wiring, lamp life, etc:
Increasing the wire gauge size to the headlight, and/or using a
heavy duty relay (a relay is VASTLY better at this, and eliminates all high
currents at the hi/low stock switch), can brighten your headlight by
reducing voltage losses. The stock headlight (except early
/5) is
55/60 watts and the bars switch in particular will
NOT hold up to larger lamps (80 watts probably for awhile, but
not 100+) that one
might put in the headlight shell....or for
added headlamps; and, hence a heavy duty 20 or 30 ampere relay
(Bosch types, black, in plastic
cases, local autoparts stores,
are relatively INexpensive and OK).
NOTE!...use of a headlight modulator
with an INcreased lamp wattage size also means you should use a
relay.
There are OTHER considerations:
There are some things not usually discussed about changing the
wiring, adding relays, ETC., ....besides the need to do it neatly
and foolproof,
so that the bike can not burn up. On THAT
subject, one must avoid poor connections, bare wiring, places
rubbing could compromise the
insulation, and, of
course, have a FUSE!
IN almost every instance of adding one
or two relays; you will want a
direct to battery connection via a
fuse. BMW could have used larger gauge wires for the
lighting, and elected not to, and had
some reasons for what they
did. I hope the following will discuss all the
factors and that I have not forgotten anything:
The light output of a lamp is increased only a
very small amount for a 5% increase in voltage, and that is
probably the improvement you
might make at the headlight with a
directly connected larger gauge wire, fuse, switch....or using
heavy wiring and a heavy duty relay. BUT
the
LIFE of the lamp is GREATLY decreased,
out of proportion to the smaller percentage increase in light.
This is a general property of
incandescent lights, including
halogen types. Not only is the life decreased from
the lamp life otherwise obtained, but the lamp may get a
slightly
higher voltage AT turn-on, and the slightly higher inrush current
on a cold lamp may decrease life even more.
Typically, in an airhead,
with reasonably decent wiring, switch
contacts, etc., the headlight will see about half a volt less
than the battery, sometimes a bit more. This is
a wee bit
less voltage, a couple tenths or so, than the voltage shown on
the fairing voltmeter, if you have one of those and it is
accurate (usually
they are accurate for the point at which they
are connected). Those
voltmeters usually show 0.3 volt lower than a direct battery
terminal
measurement.
Lamps used in vehicles are not all rated at 12
volts. Some are rated at 12.8, or 14.0.
Some foreign, German too, lamps ARE rated at
12 volts nominally,
but the WAY they are rated and tested amounts to about the same
thing as U.S. lamps, in effect, so I will treat them the
same,
although they ARE differently rated. Yes, I know that
the Europeans and the U.S., has used slightly different voltages
on some, at
times...but the principal here holds up. The
14.0 volt rating is typically used for lamps that are ON all the
time the engine is running.
The headlight is a
special case though, and is not thusly rated. The 12.8
rating is generally for lamps that are used only for short
periods, such
as turn signals and brake lights. These
lamps usually have a much higher rated wattage than other small
lamps, such as clearance and running
lamps and dash lights, and
hence will put more of a load on the system, and typically the
engine is idling, or producing little electricity from the
alternator, and the manufacturer's KNOW that the voltage AT THE
LAMPS will thus be reasonably close to that 12.8, and hence that
is the
rated voltage. A case could be made by nerdy
engineer-types about the faster lighting-up, or the transient
period from high system voltage
to the decreased voltage...but I
won't get into that here. The headlamp is a special
case, and has complicated ratings, not easily found in
specification books.
When you raise the system voltage, whether by
an alternator conversion that increases the voltage at idle or a
bit above, and/or, by higher
voltage regulator settings, larger
gauge wires, relays, etc.....you can expect shorter lamp
life. That is the tradeoff. There is another, more
minor
tradeoff, in that the DRAIN in watts will also be a bit
higher. You may find that all the special
wiring and relays, for the stock lamp, don't
make a lot of
difference. You can find
out how much difference light output MIGHT be, if
things you contemplate
doing were near perfect, by turning on the headlight, and
then
ADDING, temporarily, and
momentarily, a heavy duty wire from the
battery +
terminal directly to the energized headlight terminal. Do
this at idle
rpm, and also do it with the system at an rpm (and
battery fully charged) that has
the maximum system voltage. You will see the difference.
If your bike has larger voltage drops, you
probably need to attend to the various connections, plugs,
sockets, even relays and ignition
switch, etc. One
of the worst places for problems is the larger gauge red wire
connections at the starter relay, and at a
slightly loose starter
motor solenoid terminal. Other places often having problems
are the connections at the diode board.
Those who are running heated clothing during
the daytime, and are running at or near the limits of alternator
output, and do not wish to
spend the $$$ for the alternator
conversion, can consider a headlight modulator, which will save
quite a few watts (in effect)....besides
adding to your safety
(and annoying oncoming drivers, or them if in front of you...SOME will undoubtedly
say). Those with an additional
headlight and heated clothing SHOULD have the larger aftermarket alternators.
Part
V:
HEADLIGHT
MODULATORS, in depth, and recommendations:
NOTE!!!!....I have an article on this website with the federal
law allowing modulators, and the technical details.
Headlight modulators; the Federal Law
authorizing them; the technical details
That is a clickable hyperlink
I am a big fan of Headlight Modulators. I always have mine
ON during the daytime, which means I have a blinking Hi Beam. Others hate
them, feel
they annoy folks. Frankly, the purpose is not to annoy, but
to attract attention, and they seem to do that fairly well,
although in
really bright sunlight your headlight is perhaps not
easy to see from an oncoming car driver's standpoint. But, that
is true for any headlight,
modulator or not. I think they
are just one more safety item. One of my
nicknames, from a Club I ride with now and then, is BLINKY...
due
to my modulators. I had a
custom high power modulator on my sidecar tug (1983 R100RT), had
it for maybe 19 years. It was massive,
will power an
aircraft landing light (don't ask!).
Prior to that bike, there was a home-made modulator on my
R75/5. I presently have a
Kisan unit on my solo bike (1984
R100RT), and I also put a Kisan modulator into Lilli's R80ST as a little
gift, and I have a Kisan modulator
on my K1100LT-EML sidecar
rig. The Kisan unit is available from quite a few
motorcycle dealers, and they are not cheap, retail is around
$100.00, but they are really trick, neat units. I've
installed dozens of them. They are programmable, neat-O,
and fairly reliable. Mount the
photocell unit cleverly. Ask
me, if you have questions on that.
Decades ago, modulators were of all sorts of types and
usages. Now, the frequency, duration, etc., of the
headlight period on versus off is
specified in Federal Law.
Also specified is the use on only the high beam.
Oversimplified here, but close enough. Because of the
Federal law,
and Federal money into the States' road systems,
headlight modulators for motorcycles are approved in every
State. Some States have their
own laws, but I don't know of
any that negate the federal requirements, I suppose that is
possible on non-federal roads, but have heard of
nothing like
that. So, for practical matters, they are legal
everyplace. If you want to make your own modulator,
some schematics are on
the www.ibmwr.org
website. One version will modulate either beam, as it is
inserted into the stock headlamp ground circuit.
A CLEVER headlight modulator comes from
the company called KISAN (KisanTech).
These are simple to install, since they are a wafer
affair that
simply plugs into the rear of the headlamp bulb, then you plug in
the regular cable. There is NO wiring to connect to power or
ground, etc.
The Kisan unit has another cable, that
is thin and long enough, it plugs into the wafer unit on some
models, and the other end of the cable is the
photocell, a
requirement. The unit automatically works on only the
high beam because of how it's plug is made; and, will not operate
at night
due to the photocell. The photocell has three
sensitivities and you program the unit, if you have to, usually
not, by simply turning the key rapidly
on and off per the booklet
that comes with every unit. It is very easy to
install, usually without drilling any holes anyplace, or just one
small one.
I like the design, obviously, since I have
installed dozens. I also can recommend another type, from EasternBeaver.com,
below.
Because there are several types of
headlight bulbs used on motorcycles, one has to get the proper
Kisan model. They handle up to a 100
watt lamp.
In operation, you still have the various stock functions of your
left bar switches. Due to a peculiarity of the halogen H4
headlight
bulb, your headlight, on the high beam at least, will
probably last LONGER, generally, with the
modulator. NOTE!....Light output
is
improved with a headlight modulator by using a heavy duty
relay. You don't HAVE TO do that, however, as the
light output
increase is rather small or modest. HOWEVER,
if you are using a high wattage lamp (over 70 watts), then it is
a must to
protect the bars switch. You can do this with one
or two Bosch relays
yourself, or just buy EasternBeaver's modulator with
relays.
Use heavy duty relays with 80+ watt lamps.
Somewhat technical:.....
(1) A modulator can
be made in two standards ways. In one method, the
modulator is turned on, then fully off, at a roughly 4 Hertz
rate.
In another method, the Federals specify this, the
modulator does not fully turn off during the flashing mode. Many
a modulator does not
conform, and has no need to, since the
visual effect is about the same!...this is due to the inertia of
the filament of the lamp.
(2) The flashing mode is officially, by law, set at 4 Hz to annoy (become more recognized...) the brain alpha rhythms...or some such.
(3) On a
practical basis it makes NO difference about turn-on and turn-off,
as the rate of flashing is fast enough, and equal enough in time
between on and less on or off periods, that the bulb filament
never 100% cools off. The law was wishy-washy on how it was
worded...
does headlight power mean electric or light
output?
(4) ONE OTHER good thing comes from
the use of a modulator. Since the period of time the
modulator is ON is not constant, the
EFFECTIVE use of WATTS from
your charging system is REDUCED. I have not made a
quantitative study of this, but you should
gain 20 to 30 watts
effectively. There is also a very SMALL voltage drop in the
unit, but it has only a FAINT effect on light output and
drain.
I
am sure to get hate mail over this, but I happen to like things
that add to safety, and I THINK these
things DO. And the
lamps last longer, and you get some additional watts from the
alternator on high beam
daytime use.
NOTE that Jim at http://www.Easternbeaver.com
has a lot of interesting goodies, including
relays for when you use higher powered lamps
or just want more
solid voltage to your headlight. LOTS of good wiring things
on this site, and Jim is a good guy to boot. He has a very
clever combination modulator and relays setup, almost plug and
play, that does it all for you.
I prefer, however, and ESPECIALLY with higher power lamps, to use one or two separate relays, of the 20 or 30 ampere autoparts store type.
Resources:
The above URL's has a lot of lamp information,
but I do not agree with some minor portions of them;..for
instance the inference that
DC and AC life is not all that
different....other places here....but GOOD stuff otherwise.
http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/tech.html
This is the URL for extensive information on
lighting, which will dispel a lot of wrong information on
lamps...it is a very extensive data and
information base,
covering MUCH that is not here on the page you are
reading. Plan on spending some time browsing.
Revisions:
to 02/03/2003: clarifications:
headlamp shell, use of 9003 in /5; minor additions to
descriptions; headlamp and eyebrow lamps usage
and add socket and
harness numbers.
04/17/2003: add .htm title; clarifications here and there.
07/13/2003: /5 large alternator information clarified; add
2825, 2821, and some notes on these types; resources URL's.
09/15/2003: lots of clarifications and includes LED
indicators information, more links.
11/22/2003: Clarify 20 watt lamp and part numbers
01/03/2004: revise in several places for clarity, add
section on wire gauges, relays, and in-depth lamp life
considerations. Add -24 ID to
top of article
04/03/2004 : Greatly expand section on side headlight shell
information; also add #64198 for /5; edit entire article a bit.
08/25/2004: minor updates, comments on 2825
10/29/2004: add part 3.
07/05/2005: lamp information updated for 64115
03/23/2006: slight updating
03/25/2006: more lamp substitutions for BMW -279.
03/26/2006: final extensive editing
02/07/2007: minor editing, mostly for clarity
01/08/2008: fix URL's; add Eastern Beaver information; and
revise the modulator section
06/26/2008: add Osram 64205 information
11/03/2008: add more information on PIAA and other headlamp bulbs
06/21/2009: Recheck article. Minor clarity improvements
07/13/2009: Add hyperlink to article with the federal
modulators law
08/28/2009: Add paragraph in two places on lamp sockets and their numbers.
09/15/2009: add a bit more information on the 64205 and
64206 lamps....and later in the day, add more information on high
temperature
sockets for H4 lamps....and, more, on 09/16/2009.
10/21/2009: Add sketch of H4 lamp base and revise article
for more clarity.