Servicing
Transmission input (clutch) splines and throwout bearing and clutch arm
[cleaning and lubrication and inspection]
Includes
information on swing arm locknuts, adjusters, and how to adjust those items
article #43
inputsplinesthrowout.htm
©
Applicability: All BMW Airheads, /5 and later
Skill level: lower intermediate or better
NOTE: The swing arm bearings are the common number 30203A, although 30203 can be used. One is sealed, one not, I prefer the UNsealed ones. Same as wheel bearing number (pre-1985).
Background information:
Besides avoiding spline WEAR from rusting, this cleaning and re-lubrication will make operation of the clutch smoother, and shifting easier. If kept properly lubricated, the splines may last almost forever. The clutch splines (really the transmission input shaft splines...you NEVER grease the clutch disc splines, although they work with each other) are fine toothed, and the teeth not deep, and rusting is a problem. The normal use of the clutch causes the clutch disc splines to slide along the input shaft splines, wiping away the grease. The grease will go away after some mileage, and MANY different greases have been tried, including some with very sticky, gum or even taffy-like qualities. If the clutch splines wear enough, you will hear a very uncomfortable noise, and then you are not going anyplace, as you ripped off all the splines. Long before this, it is likely that your downshifting will be poor.
Whenever you clean and grease those input splines,
ALSO do the throwout bearing area service.
After the mid-1980's BMW supposedly nickel plated the transmission input shaft
splines and re-greasing can supposedly go to 30K miles. Sometimes, yes, sometimes
NO. If you live/ride in wet or humid areas, check the splines at 12,000 miles, and if OK, go to 18,000. I have almost
never seen any UNplated ones go much over 20K. FEW of the plated ones go
over 30,000 miles. Those that do shorter rides, shifting a lot, in wet climates,
ESPECIALLY if engine cool-down is in a high humidity area, will need re-greasing more often than those in desert climates who do
mostly long slab rides and/or live in drier climates. Every time you shut the engine
off after a
ride, the engine cools, the internal parts, including the clutch parts, condense some moisture on them, particularly in high humidity areas. That can promote rusting
at the shaft, unless the grease is still intact. For smooth operation I prefer
some moly in that
grease, as moly tends to protect the metal from some forms of wear, and tends to
remain slippery.
NOTE that the Würth SIG-3000 does not LOOK like it contains moly, which turns any grease rather blackish. It may be that the Würth is quite good, long term testing has begun. I have long term tested many greases. The NAPA 18-9200 marine grease, the Chevron EP Ultra duty NLG1 or NLG2, Texaco Starplex with Moly, and BMW's own grease, are adequate. I do NOT recommend use of 100% Staburags, an old recommendation by BMW. Another recommended grease by BMW was Optimoly. Still, not so great.
What you CAN do with those above Staburags and Optimoly (or other) moly greases is to ADD some, perhaps 1/3, to the non-moly greases like the Chevron. There is NO perfect grease, that I know of, for this application!!!
NOTE: Honda makes a Moly 60 grease, available at their motorcycle dealerships, with a high moly content. Folks have used this by itself, with good results.
NOTE: There are two articles that you SHOULD READ, and use the information in those articles as an adjunct to THIS article. Those articles are at:
Click your mouse on the left side at Technical Tips.
The two articles are the one the throwout bearing, by Matt Parkhouse, dated 12/99; and the one by myself; Lubing Transmission/Clutch Splines, dated 12/04.
NOTE!.....reading those two above articles will give a somewhat different perspective on what is later in the article you are presently reading. Highly recommended that you read those two, and then come back and read this one.
NOTE on the throwout bearings:
There have been three general types of throwout bearings
used. In the /5, there was a ball bearing. It gives little
trouble. From the /6 into 1984, BMW used a flat radial needle bearing. It is troublesome if not kept lubricated and in good
condition. NOTE that these throwout bearings are supposedly
lubricated by the transmission oil. That is true, but when cleaning one of
these throwout bearings, I strongly suggest you use a plain soft non-moly grease
on them, and the piston, etc. The radial bearing is a POOR design. When RADIAL needle bearings
are rotated circularly, the needles try to rotate at the same speed at BOTH ENDS
of each needle....that is, from
end to end of an individual needle. This is NOT POSSIBLE, if you think about it, so
they scrape around....moving the grease out of themselves. If the
grease (or transmission oil) is not there, and a little moisture condenses there, or excessive clutch
hold-in times are often used ....and/or combinations of these things.....the bearing
can start to deplete any lubrication, and actually freeze up.
There is also a problem in many models that have the piston separate from the bearing....in that the PISTON that drives the bearing has a plastic outer body (doesn't look like plastic though, looks like some sort of metal). Plastic expands vastly faster than the aluminum transmission bore....and some pistons were made slightly too large in diameter, and could freeze up somewhat, when the transmission got hot. Makes for lousy shifting. After 1984, BMW went back to a type of ball-bearing design. BMW makes a pricey replacement for the piston that was too large in diameter, and that new part also contains the bearing as part of the assembly. You can easily fix a sticky plastic piston however. This is done by cleaning it, and chucking the small steel nub into a drill press, and using sandpaper squarely and evenly against the outside plastic diameter. Information LATER in this article gives more details.
The FIRST sign of impending bearing problem is USUALLY, but not always, a stiffening of clutch action, and/or some strange noises. If you keep your bearing clean and greased....say at every spline lube job (15,000 to 20,000 miles usually), then you are far less likely to have a problem that will strand you during a ride.
What follows is a step by step HOW-TO article, on cleaning and lubricating the throwout bearing, inspecting for any damage, and a modification if needed; and, inspection, cleaning and lubricating the input splines. While the procedure was developed from both a 1983 and 1984 R100RT, some generic information is included, and this procedure should be easily adaptable for YOUR bike. There are specific reasons the author did certain of the steps in the order shown.
Note: This procedure does not usually require special tools. Tools from your on-bike BMW tool kit are needed. Also needed are the proper grease for the splines; a grease gun with a rubber tip that can contain almost any chassis grease (for the swing arm greasing); a modified 27 mm or modified 1-1/16th inch socket; a torque wrench; 13 mm socket; 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive as appropriate with a standard extension; 6 mm allen wrench in square drive; 6 mm standard BMW tool kit allen wrench, with the short side shortened...this is for the lower left transmission bolt; antiseize compound, rags, cleaners; two acid brushes (modified); and two pieces of almost any small rod or yardstick, etc., and a few minor items you are very likely to have. It is handy to have a modified Chinese bottle jack, an article on that modification is on this website...and that WAS a hyperlink, although it is listed on the Tech Index page as item #20. The tools above are not to be construed as an exact list of items you will need. You may improvise for YOUR bike as needed. Some folks with smog parts may need a 15/16" flare nut wrench or substitute.
REFERENCE: 07-11-9-918-655 50 mm allen head bolt with captive washer; 07-11-9-901-033 45 mm bolt or 07-11-9-901-161 40 mm bolt. In case you decide to replace the upper right stud. See text.
Regarding the modified 27 mm or 1-1/16" socket: Obtain a standard 12 point socket, NOT a 6 point. Grind, squarely, the large working END of the socket until all of the small amount of INside taper is gone. You can also do this by chucking the socket in a lathe. Remove one of the plastic caps over one swing arm adjustment area. Take a careful look at the inside diameter(s) of the swing arm nut/adjuster cavity. You will probably see TWO diameters. Turn the outside of this socket on a lathe, or by hand on a grinder, so that the socket will fit very easily through both diameters and the newly 'made square' end of the socket fits FULLY over the 27 mm nut. Do not turn/grind the socket too much, nor too little. Too much and the socket is weakened (another reason for a 12 point, not 6 point), too little and the socket will not pass easily by BOTH of the internal swing arm cavity diameters. SOMEtimes BMW did machine those two diameters concentric! See near end of this article on just how the swing arm is adjusted.
1. Did you read the two articles, above? If not, do it NOW!
2. Remove the gas tank. Engage 5th gear on the transmission (4th on /5) and leave it engaged.
3. Remove the throwout bearing actuating arm. This is the arm at
the rear of the transmission, the clutch lever arm. There were TWO basic styles
of these arms. One earlier style is held in place by a steel pin that has
a groove, said groove has a C-clip, and the clip is located at the lower area of
the INSIDE between the transmission ears. If you
have a /5, you have a cotter pin to the boss. Be SURE that when you reinstall
the clutch lever arm that the C clip fits TIGHTLY, and is for sure fully in its
groove. Be SURE! If the clip falls out, and the pin comes
partially out, actuating of the bar lever will BREAK OFF a transmission ear,
possibly stranding you. The early style arm also has a grease
fitting, and the throwout parts are different. The later style arm
uses a 10 mm bolt with waverly locking washers, and NO C-clip. Insert the
bolt so the nut is at the LOWER area. If the bolt comes partly undone, you will also
break an ear. I prefer a Nyloc type of nut. The later arm has no
grease fitting. ...read all of #13 below.
You can now remove the clamp, and boot, if you have those. You will find a
coil spring inside the boot.
4. Have you removed the throwout bearing actuating arm as in #3 above? Do it. If it is the late style, push through the steel sleeve and clean the needle bearing and lubricate the needle bearing with OIL, lubricate the sleeve with OIL, and coat the outer faces lightly with moly grease. It is QUITE common to see those arm needle bearings as having NEVER been cleaned and oiled since new...and you can try a bit of heat and cooling to suck in some oil...sometimes that works on really frozen up ones. For the /5, grease the fitting, cleaning innards first. If a bolt, then clean the bolt and very lightly oil its surface. Remove the throwout bearing, do not try to remove the inner central rod that is forward of the throwout bearing. The earliest style bearing had BALL bearings, the later not as good style (/6 to about 1984) had a flat radial needle/roller bearing, and after 1984 it supposedly is a ball bearing again. There is some variance in the outer spring and black rubber cup, and the single or two part piston, ETC. ***NOTE: Ball bearing types have been seen on years they were not supposedly on, some 1984 for instance.
NOTE: Tolerances have varied on the diameter on some transmission throwout bores, and throwout piston tolerances were not held tight enough. Generally this is thought of as from 1981, when BMW changed the clutch design radically. If the piston fits into the bore a bit too tightly...it may still operate smooth enough when cool, but under some circumstances, as the transmission fully heats up, may stick. Measure the piston, and if it is over about 1.13" (28.7 mm), you MAY want to reduce the outside diameter a bit. I have seen these as large as about 1.142" that still worked OK. I can't give a hard and fast rule here, but if yours is up to 1.141 or so, I would certainly see how it fits, and if a bit too much friction, I would recommend sanding the OD a bit. Remember that to REALLY test the fit, you have to HEAT the piston fairly hot! I have done that, it this works well to determine if the fit is OK. You can chuck the rather short shaft tip end in a drill press and use some rather fine sandpaper for reducing the diameter. Inspect the bearing, and if it looks bad, replace it. Grease it with a good grease (NO moly). Yes, I know transmission oil will eventually, one hopes, dissolve the grease and lubricate the bearing with oil.
Set the now cleaned and lubricated arm and associated parts aside. It is MUCH easier to move the transmission far enough to the rear for the input splines greasing, with the clutch lever removed. In fact, without the lever removed, you probably can not do the splines properly. DO NOT injure the transmission ears in any of your work!! KEEP FILTH AWAY FROM THE PARTS YOU JUST CLEANED AND LUBRICATED.
5. Remove the airbox and airfilter. If you have the older clamshell type housing you will have to push the breather hose out of the half. If you have the later square housing, and depending on what is in the area, pulse air parts, breather hose setup, vacuum line setup, etc., you may have to move the breather hose forward. Replacing it can be a bit of fun, and it is easier at that time, to simply remove the starter motor cover...and you CAN do that now. With the starter cover off, it is a great time to check the nuts on the electrical post of the starter. If you've have had breather problems, now is a great time to fix whatever is wrong. On late model airheads, you can inspect the solenoids and vent into the crankcase, and decide whether or not to modify them. You may even want to change an early model disc breather to a later reed type, and clear the bottom of the cavity small drain hole in the breather area....see information elsewhere's on this site.
6. Remove what vacuum and smog parts, if any, that you need to on your particular bike (you may want to modify at this time or before re-assembly). Remove the left lower bolt on the transmission, and the right lower bolt. NOTE the brown grounding wire at the left lower bolt if you have that. Pay attention to washers. Remove the left upper bolt. Remove the nut on the right upper STUD. SOME folks may want to add a nut, lock the nuts together, and thus remove that stud. THAT IS...you may want to consider changing that stud to a bolt. The twin nut is fine, can be left in place that way, and you don't REALLY have to remove the stud...for the SPLINE service. Removing the stud on some models makes removing the transmission and other servicing a bit easier, and USUALLY the battery and battery box need NOT be removed. Your choice here.
Remove the 13 mm bolt that goes straight down through the top, middle, of the transmission. When you REinstall that bolt later, coat the first few threads AND THE WASHER with a non-hardening thread sealant, such as Permatex Form-A-Gasket #2. If that bolt is loose, or leaks, oil will be sucked out of the transmission. If you have the rectangular airbox, you should now be able to remove the base.
NOTE: BMW uses a metric size for vacuum line crossover hose and for the gas line crossover hose that pass through the area. Use of SAE (American, inch size) hose will make for more difficult fitment. I recommend the stock BMW black hose. If you have a classic /5, and want to keep it original, you can get the original silver braded fuel hose from Bing Agency.
7. HINT! Some folks have a hard time removing and replacing the plastic input tubes to the carburetors. On some models, these tubes are not the same, left to right, and also ARE NOT the same end for end, and only one fits the proper left or right side, and only one end of THAT fits the airbox and carburetor. For the square airboxes, and to some minor extent the clamshell type, it is FAR easier to leave these plastic tubes attached to the airbox half or base, and to loosen the clamp(s) at the carburetor end of them and when the the airbox is removed (especially, that square box), the whole assembly lifts off easily, and replaces more easily. If those plastic tubes are off and you are fitting them, try fitting the carbs and intake hoses and plastic tubes all as one assembly at one time.
8. Using the Chinese jack as modified, or some other means, typically at the rear lower frame crossover tube (not easy for a model with the pre-muffler under the transmission area); jack the rear tire barely off the ground. If you have a ride-off stand you may want to find a way (rock it into position) to put a 3/4 inch or so piece of plywood under the ride-off stand. Bikes vary, play with yours until you find out what is needed. Remove the plastic covers over the swing arm adjusters, and loosen the two 27 mm nuts, maybe only 1/4-1/2 turn loosening is needed, and then UNscrew the allen-center adjuster on each side, and REMOVE the adjuster with the nut still attached. You may have to wiggle the tire/swing arm a bit to allow the adjusters to be removed, and that helps avoid damaging the threads. I have seen these not lubricated properly and rusted badly. If yours are like that, I recommend you remove the entire rear end of the bike and service the swing arm bearing area. Be prepared for new bearings if need be. Various puller styles will work to remove the outer bearing race, Ed Korn makes a cute one, and in a kit to install the new one. It is a simple job. The swing arm bearing is basically the same as the wheel bearing, a common type from any bearing supply company. I prefer not to use sealed versions of those bearings (or, I remove the seal), allowing ME to grease from the outside, after the bike is reassembled, via the center allen wrench hole.
9. There is typically no need to undo any shift linkage for just a spline re-lubrication.
10. Pull rearward on the transmission. It will likely come backwards a wee bit. The limit for the rear movement is typically not the clutch ears but the driveshaft housing interfering with the frame cross tube. You will probably find you need to HOLD the transmission backwards. While you can use some pieces of WOOD (NOT METAL!!) to wedge into the transmission-engine opening (and may end up doing that anyway), you MAY want to fashion some means to KEEP the suspension moved to the rear. I do this by hooking a bungee from a lower spring/shock unit, back to the turn signal tube, VERY tightly, on both sides (if a twin shock model). If you play with the transmission and rear end movement a bit, you will find that you can separate the transmission from the engine JUST enough so that the input shaft forward end is visible.
****NOTE! If you see an OILY spline at the transmission and see oil coming from the input end of the transmission, you MUST undo the universal joint, remove the transmission entirely, and replace the input seal. Failure to do that will result in eventually oiling the clutch. This is an easy job if the transmission is out, you do NOT have to take the transmission apart.
Ideally, the transmission, when in the bike, is back far enough to see the clutch END of the transmission input spline. It is nice to be able to get the center rod to the rear enough to get to that tip with lube, later.
11. Blow out any dust and dirt from the area. Do that now, rather than later. Under NO circumstances allow any prying with metal tools that will nick the transmission-engine mating surfaces, thereby causing the transmission not to re-assemble dead squarely to the engine. CLEAN the splines of the INPUT shaft (NOT clutch disc!). If the rear center of the clutch disc (spline area outsides) is very greasy, clean with a rag.
To both clean and grease these input splines, I make up TWO simple tools:
Take two common acid brushes. Cut the bristles down in length so they are a bit stiffer. Tape or otherwise tie, securely, those brushes to some sort of thin rods or any similar items, such that the brush handle length is extended. ONE brush tool is your permanent tool for cleaning, the other is for your permanent tool for greasing. You only need make these two once, so after you are done with them, put them on your shelf of BMW tools. I use wood dowels from the hardware store. I am guessing mine are maybe 3/8" diameter. Maybe 1/2".
To clean the splines, use some sort of strong petroleum-based solvent on one of the brushes, and move the brush back and forth along the INPUT spline; that is, the TRANSMISSION spline. Rotate the spline as need be, by rotating the rear wheel, which is off the ground and the transmission is still in top gear. I like to finish the INPUT spline by spraying a good cleaner on it, but remember, do NOT clean the inner spline of the disc itself. IF the outer rear face of the spline AREA of the disc is messy with greasy, wipe that with a bit of cloth. If you spray solvent into the clutch disc splines, that can easily put grease/oil/grunge, into the friction disc....so do NOT do this. Common BRAKE CLEANER does NOT do a good job here for cleaning. I use acetone, MEK, or similar strong and fast evaporating solvents. Berryman B12 carburetor and choke cleaner is good.
REPEATING a previous NOTE: IF that area shows OIL leakage from the transmission, remove the transmission and replace that seal...and ask the LIST how to do that! It is not difficult and you do not need to disassemble the transmission. Failure to replace a leaky seal will ruin your clutch eventually. There are TWO ways transmission oil can get into your clutch. ONE is via a bad transmission input shaft seal. The other is a missing round tubular FELT, that can be somewhat of a devil to install, located, hidden, around the rod that passes from the rear throwout bearing area to the tip of the input shaft. It is easier to install that from the forward nose (input shaft spline end). If you have NOT removed the transmission, you have likely not been able to remove that rod accidentally, so, you should have no problem with that felt at this point.
Grease the INPUT SHAFT splines once the solvent is totally evaporated. Work the grease into the spline, bit by bit, all around, using the greasing brush tool. It is not needed, nor desirable for too much grease.
If the rod END that is in the center of the input shaft is not visible, make it visible. This is usually easy with the clutch lever having been removed at the rear. You can either grip the rod at the rear, or use the end of a screwdriver against the forward end of that metal rod, to move it rearward to see the tip. Put ONE SMALL drop of moly grease on the tip, and putting one at the rear is a good idea too.
Clean the surfaces of the transmission shell that will contact the engine surfaces. Take your time to do this properly. Under NO circumstances are any nicks, nor filth, allowable that would keep the transmission from SQUARELY and FULLY mating to the engine surface. Clean the engine mounting surface too.
12. Reassemble everything, bit by bit, slowly, and carefully. Do NOT allow foreign matter to interfere with the transmission coming up to the engine cleanly, and squarely, and fully. Be sure the transmission is fitting squarely, and then cinch up the bolts, evenly, in a cross pattern. Do not forget the vertical 13 mm bolt (you HAVE used a sealant on that bolt and washer??). The clam shell model requires the right clam shell to be in place for this. Do NOT forget the grounding wire. You can now reinstall the clutch lever at the rear....and do any cleaning and lubrication there that you did not do previously.
***After the adjusters and locknuts are replaced into the frame cavities and engaging the swing arm, these need to be adjusted. If you did not move the locknuts originally except the wee, perhaps 1/2 turn, or 1 turn needed to loosen them, it will be a bit quicker. In any case, what you must do is screw the adjusters inward, with an allen wrench, until some light pressure is felt, while trying to keep the swing arm roughly centered. At that point, you can use a small allen wrench from the BMW on-bike tool kit, or a selected diameter of drill shank, using them as a thickness gauge, placed between the FRAME and the SWING ARM, to get the swing arm centered in the frame. This may take a few attempts until the swing arm is centered, that is, the selected size of drill shank or allen wrench inserted between frame and swing arm shows the same spacing, side to side. What you will do is torque one of the adjusters to 15 ftlbs, back off, torque to 7-1/2 foot pounds, stopping at 7-1/2 in the clockwise tightening direction....if the spacing is equal, fine, if not, back off one adjuster, tighten the other, in the same manner, and repeat until perfect, then tighten the 27 mm thin nuts to 75 foot pounds.
There is nothing super-critical about the equality of
the spacing. If you are within .020 or so, that is plenty good
enough.
That
equal spacing is to be
maintained after all is torqued and tightened, and the procedure to torque
things is to make an adjustment on one side, and then tighten the adjuster on
the other side to 15 foot pounds, then back
off, and then, again in the tightening
direction, stop at 7.5 footpounds. That is SEVEN POINT FIVE! NOT
seventy five. At that point, recheck your
clearances. If not correct, redo the clearance balancing adjustments, back
one off a small amount, tighten the other....and repeat the 15-7.5, and try again. When done, LOCK the 27 mm locknuts by applying
roughly 75 foot pounds (yes, SEVENTY-five) to them with the modified socket. Doing the
torquing of the allen adjusters is FAR easier with a simple common tool, an
allen of 6 mm size, with the other end a 3/8 or 1/2 square drive. As
a final step before replacing the plastic covers, lubricate the swing arm through these
allen recesses, using a rubber tipped grease gun tool.
See just below...
NOTE: Late models may have sealed swing arm bearings....strangely I have seen a few earlier models with this type....and you have to go about greasing things differently....like with a sharp grease needle from the side;....through the seal.....etc. Every few years it is not a bad idea to remove the swing arm...or move it backwards...enough to do a thorough bearing service. I like to leave enough grease in the measured space area that rain, washing, etc. does not get in there. As mentioned, the sealed bearing is not needed. In fact, the R45/R65 models came without one spacer and grease containment item.....AGAIN...I simply fill that equality of distance area with grease....the idea being that rain, washing, etc., won't get into the bearing. If I find the bearing sealed, I usually prick or otherwise actually on purpose damage the seal, so greasing goes to the proper areas.
13. If not already done, add a wee dab of moly grease to the working end of the clutch arm where it fits against the rod in the transmission and re-install the clutch arm and associated parts. AGAIN, I caution that if you have the early style lever that uses the pin with the C-clip, it MUST be installed properly...better yet, change it, so read onwards, and refer back to #3:
The /5 uses a cotter pin. The later models
use a bolt, put the bolt in from the top. Watch how the arm is installed, even on the later
models. The arm thickness with its sleeve, whatever, is such that you
should not be able to break the ears off the transmission. WATCH what you
are doing! Refer back to #3. Adjust the
clutch per the book if need be. You normally will not have to if it was OK
before you started all this. It is a darn good idea to lubricate the two
barrels of the clutch cable, one at the bars, one at the lever at the
transmission. Particularly at the lever at the handlebars, inspect THERE, to be sure that the cable is NOT being fouled by the
lever movement,
and all strands are INTACT!
From the 1980 model, BMW changed that pin through the clutch lever at the rear
of the transmission. This is easily fitted to earlier 5 speed
transmissions. This is a mushroom headed pin part
23-21-1-241-484 with clip 51-23-1-864-963. HINT!....Early models had the clutch actuating lever at the rear of
the transmission held to the two bosses of the transmission cover by a PIN, that
used a single C clip. That C-clip fit on the pin at the INside of the
lower boss. If the clip came loose, or was not fitted fully, the pin could come upwards, and come
out of the lower boss, and the next clutch application could, and often did,
break off a transmission boss ear...necessitating a transmission overhaul....or
some inert gas welding at a minimum. A cure is to remove the old pin
and clip and install the above two parts.
14. The adjustment of the early style (up to 1980) and the 1981+ style clutch/levers is different. They end up being about the same though. About 3/32" of free play at the inner opening point of the bar lever is about right, and the lever at the transmission will be parallel with the transmission rear with the bar lever pulled half way. For the 1981 bikes, the tip of the transmission mounted lever should be 5.0 inches from the cable boss with the lever NOT being actuated at the bars. Set the lever at the bars via the adjustment in the clutch arm; and the transmission lever via the bars knurled nut. For the 1981+ bikes, the transmission mounted lever will actually face rearward about 4°.
Revisions:
01-15-2003: Clarify and add to tools list; add applicability and skill
level; add reference note on 50,45, 40 mm bolts.
01-22-2003: Add section on adjusting the swing arm, and modify here and
there to incorporate clarity for that, add hyperlink within the page for that
adjustment. Add #13.
04-16-2003: add .htm title; clarify many details.
05/06/2003: add note on ball type throwout bearing seen on 1984; note to
coat the 13 mm bolt's WASHER in top of transmission; typos; input seal note in
#10; clarifications
05/11/2003: rework #12, to eliminate one reported incident of someone
managing to jam something or other. How???
05/15/2003: correct typo, 1-1/6" should be 1-1/16".
07/26/2003: expand #13, add ref to #3, and add #14
08/28/2003: add #15.
11/21/2004: remove #15, back into #13, and references to #3 added as
necessary.
06/01/2005: bearing number added
07/10/2005: updated to eliminate some confusion in procedure
07/11/2005: additional small changes on adjusting swing arm, and about the
seals there
07/23/2007: Some editing for clarity
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