Clutch
Pushrod, throwout bearing, lever at rear of transmission, cables, clutch carrier/flywheel, bolts, ETC.
(INCLUDES ADJUSTMENT of the clutch levers; and crankshaft end play spacers)

©
clutch.htm
Article 60, subsection 9

REFER to article on INPUT SPLINES, for additional information!!!
 

Warning!!.....Warning!!.....Warning!!!
 Under NO circumstances must the flywheel be removed without blocking the crankshaft!   See article flywheelremovalwarning.htm

You MUST block the crankshaft!!! 
It is true that many have removed and replaced an Airhead flywheel or clutch carrier without blocking the
crankshaft, and have had no problems.  My advice, VERY strongly given here, is to take the time to make and use a
simple crankshaft blocking tool.   If you do not use some sort of crankshaft blocking tool, and your crankshaft should
happen to move forward enough (does not take much pressure nor have to move far at all!) to have one of the thrust
washers fall off its pins, you can cause VERY serious damage as you assemble the engine. 
 Do NOT chance it!

Be sure the OT mark is in the timing window when removing and replacing the flywheel (or clutch carrier).   Do this "removing and replacing" ONLY when the pistons are fully extended outwards.  When the flywheel shows the OTmark in the
timing hole, the pistons will automatically be fully extended outward.  If that is not seen,
then the flywheel is mounted to the wrong crankshaft bolt holes.   Many a person has
goofed, so, be forewarned!  The flywheel is not 'indexed' and can be installed to
the wrong crankshaft holes.  Furthermore, the flywheel is to be centered
CW/CCW in its holes, before being fully tightened.

Since it is a MUST to mechanically block the crankshaft  from moving forward before removing a flywheel or clutch carrier you need to know
 how to best do that.  This can be done in several ways.  I recommend you do NOT use a towel between the front cover and the alternator rotor,
as is sometimes done!!  I recommend a simple and neat method...just make a tool out of a piece of Allen wrench material, and weld a disc
(fender washer) on one end, making the length such that the Allen end fits into the alternator bolt, and the disc end presses against the
inside of the outer timing chest cover.  Usually 3/4 inch overall.  The length should be such that when some light pressure is applied by the
cover, the cover being screwed back towards the engine lightly (but not touching the engine case, to be sure of having LIGHT pressure. 
The tool should be just long enough that the cover can't quite fully fit home all the way.  Obviously you don't want to tighten very much.  A further
treatment of how to make this tool is in the TOOLS article on THIS website.  (that is a hyperlink).   
There is a sketch with information on this website, so you can REALLY see what is going on......SEE, without fail:      flywheelremovalwarning.htm
  >>>>SEE and READ IT!!!<<<<

Clutch parts, including flywheel, should be identified by marking with paint or punch pricks before you disassemble. BMW did that on some models.  Parts
are generally installed at 120°.   This confuses folks, so pay attention:  In case those marks are not seen, mark your clutch parts (not disc nor diaphragm
spring) before disassembly from the 'flywheel' or 'clutch carrier'.   If you see
factory marks, those marks are to be oriented so they are, as best possible,
120° apart....NOT lined up!  YOU can make YOUR markings with arrows, if you
like, for the markings TO BE lined up.  YOUR CHOICE.   Make them permanent
such as with an engraving too....or, one dot opposite each other at one place,
and if you wish, two dots elsewhere, then three dots....your choice, just do it so YOU and others will understand the orientation

/5 clutches had changes during and after production.   The replacement diaphragm springs were changed, and 6 spacers were no longer used.   There were several types of diaphragm springs used, and the heavy duty type is usually stamped with the part number.  That part was 21-21-1-234-035. Some call that the 'sport plate'...but it is the diaphragm spring.  There was a spring common to the R90/6 and R90S, 21-21-1-231-842; it is obsolete, NLA.   The pressure ring was updated, that is part of the spacer deletion thing, and the new pressure ring is more rugged, and a better heat sink.    If you are updating, the updated parts are the -035 spring; the 21-21-1-236-332 clutch plate which has an extra set of rivets and a plate, on opposite side, locks those.  Another later part to use is the 21-21-1-231-666 pressure ring.   The early pressure ring had standard blade screws which should not be used; instead use 6 point head Allen screws, and torque to a target of 16.6 footpounds.

BMW made a big change to the clutch/flywheel parts in 1981.  The flywheel as such was dropped, and a lighter 'clutch carrier' was incorporated.   The throwout bearing was also changed in design.  These clutch parts are very different from earlier models.  The new clutch assembly was lighter, so shifting was easier; but engine vibration generally increased.   The 1981  ONLY clutch parts (as opposed to later clutch parts) were sometimes very troublesome, and some nasty failures were seen now and then.   
My comments here do not necessarily apply to the R65:
   The initial clutch friction disc, called officially the clutch plate, was 21-21-1-242-370.  A stronger disc, under part number 21-21-1-451-512 was then used.   The carrier, officially the clutch housing (or, clutch case), was 21-21-1-242-372; it was also beefed up, becoming 21-21-1-451-511, and then that became 21-21-1-338-722.     Note that during early production of the 1981 bikes, some bikes had factory installed washers between the carrier and the cover.  They are NOT to be used on replacing these parts.  The early carriers had 6 'ears'; later ones went full circle....so did not twist and distort nearly as much.   The 1981-1984 diaphragm spring was 21-21-1-242-353, and a higher pressure one IS available, as 21-21-338-508.   There were other updates.  The pressure plate 21-21-1-242-354 became 21-21-1-243-009, which became 21-21-2-302-200.   The rearmost part, called a case lid or housing cover, was 21-21-242-355; and became 21-21-1-457-280.   Bolts 21-21-1-242-371 became 21-21-1-338-680.   If you are overhauling a 1981 model with original parts, it is a VERY good idea to replace all the parts that were updated...which is nearly everything!
 

Note that late production discs have no asbestos, and may not grip quite as well, and if you replace just a disc, if the mating parts are worn some, they may well not be dead flat, and the clutch may slip...although if used gently, the clutch may break-in after a few hundred miles and be OK.    Professional mechanics usually do a clutch job by replacing the three parts, but you CAN just replace the disc, but I would then recommend checking the taper/flatness of the parts.  Use of new parts will guarantee a proper strong clutch, but the set of parts is not cheap.   The heavy duty higher pressure spring is a good idea, especially with these later non-asbestos discs.

A SI was issued with a lot more information on where to grease the mating clutch parts....ETC.   That is in the 1992 service fiche, page 4, G13/H13/I13.  Basically, it is the contact points of the diaphragm spring.  I use a moly grease there, very sparingly.

NOTE:  The throwout bearing, of which there are two basic types, need to be removed and cleaned and lubricated now and then.  Failure to do this can result in not only poor clutch operation but on one version a disintegration of the bearing and having broken parts get into the transmission and doing damage!  Information is in the input splines article.

HINTs!!!.....exceptionally stiff clutch action can be due to worn and grungy and even broken parts in the clutch throwout bearing area, including the bearing, piston, etc.    Do NOT forget to change the clutch cable if bad;...it can FEEL OK with the cable disconnected at the transmission end, yet be very stiff when in actual operation.   Do NOT have the clutch cable running with sharp bends; nor more than the ONE tie on the right down-tube.  Be SURE to grease the bar lever area (not the pivot there, it is nylon lined), and be SURE that the cable inner strands are NOT fouled by the slot in the bar lever!!  It is especially important that the cable end, called a cable barrel, be free to rotate in the clutch lever.   Pulling the clutch lever slowly backwards will show if the barrel is moving freely.  If not, unfasten the cable from the lever, and clean up any rough spots on the barrel, then reinstall using a moly grease on the barrel.   The lever at the bars pivots on the screw/pin, via a plastic bushing in the LEVER.  If the lever has too much free-play, replace that nylon-like bushing.  Failure to do so might allow the lever to foul, in the lever slot, the cable strands....and the cable will snap eventually.  Mind my caution on lubing the barrel.  I use a moly grease.

Slipping clutch?  Acts up when engine fully heated up?...etc...??

On later models, the plastic 'piston' with the metal center, that the clutch lever at the back of the transmission applies its force to, might be too large in diameter, and stick in the transmission bore when hot.  This throwout piston part is next to the 1 inch mark of the ruler in the photo below.     The LIMIT is 28.7 mm, and it can be sanded down, or replaced (read the NOTE! below!).  This occurred because tolerances on some transmissions throwout area bore sizes, and these throwout pistons were not held tight enough.  This is from 1981, when BMW changed the clutch design radically.    If the piston fits into the bore a bit too tightly...(it may still operate smooth enough when cold), under some circumstances, PARTICULARLY when HOT, the piston may stick.  That is because that plastic piston material expands a lot faster than the aluminum bore it fits into.  Obviously this means that a proper check is with a hot transmission!    This can manifest itself in several ways, INcluding a seemingly slipping clutch.   Measure the piston, and if it is over about 1.13" (28.7 mm) when hot, you MAY want to reduce the outside diameter a bit.  I have seen these as large as about 1.142" that still worked OK (NOT all at that diameter WILL be OK!!).  I can't give a hard and fast rule here, but if yours is up to 1.141 or so, I would certainly see how it fits, and if a bit too much friction with a HOT PISTON, I would recommend sanding the OD a bit.  You might want to check the fit, hot, if you have any hot clutch slipping problems, but OK when cold.   Whilst this modification can be done on a lathe with some sanding paper, you can also chuck the rather short shaft tip end in a drill press and use some rather fine sandpaper for this.   Use a micrometer or vernier caliper to measure the piston diameter.   Inspect the bearing, and if it looks bad, replace it.  Grease it with a good grease (Do NOT use moly).    While the bearing is theoretically lubricated by oil from the transmission, that is not hardly so at initial assembly....so use a soft mild grease, non-moly.

>>>BMW has had three versions of the unit, and offers a replacement piston:  23-13-1-464-167, another way of coping with a sticky hot piston....and if your bearing is shot, you can consider that pricey part, as it is a new design, and incorporates the bearing, and it has the proper diameter.  You really do NOT have to spend the bucks....you can sand yours.  NOTE!....it has been reported to me that BMW is now shipping an all-plastic part that has the same old problems!....so, be sure that no matter what part you have in YOUR bike, that it is not expanding and seizing up!

Below is a picture of a 1982 felt-less model clutch rod, ball bearing, piston with plastic outer, the internal spring, a new rubber accordion cup, and the band-clamp.  The rod is about 9 inches long; the piston cup is about 17/32" wide on the DARK plastic portion.

NOTE!.....the bearing is lubricated with transmission oil during operation; but that takes time and miles...so....  I always use a very light NON-moly grease when installing this bearing.  NOTE ALSO that the "felt-less' clutch rods came into being in 1981.  Prior models of clutch rod had a felt, 23-21-1-230-440, which is best installed on the rod, and the rod inserted from the FRONT of the transmission.  It is possible from the rear, with a homemade tool, but I recommend against it.  

The felt IS necessary on models prior to 1981, otherwise the clutch disc can become oiled and thereby slip, and be ruined eventually. 

The 1981 and later models have a lipped seal, not easily replaced....the transmission must come apart.

  HINT!...PAY ATTENTION HERE!!....

Earliest models, the /5 that is, had the clutch actuating arm at the rear of the transmission held to the transmission, via a cotter key.  Very reliable.  

Then, the later early models had the clutch actuating lever at the rear of the transmission held to the two bosses of the transmission cover by a PIN, that used a single C clip.  That C-clip fit on the pin at the INside of the lower boss.  If the clip came loose, the pin could come upwards, and come out of the lower boss, and the next clutch application could, and often did, break off a transmission boss ear...necessitating a transmission overhaul....or some inert gas welding at a minimum.   A cure is to remove the old pin and clip and install the following parts:
#23-13-1-241-484  pin, that has a flange, and won't fly out.   This is used with a clip that is part number  51-23-1-864-963. 
 

   _{Another HINT!.....
     BMW Service Information bulletin (we call them SI's), November 1991, #11-049-91, sub number 2495, and this can also be seen on the 12/92 fiche on page 3, G23::    Basically, it stated that while the flywheel bolts were previously at ~75 foot-pounds (100 Nm), they were now to be at 90 foot-pounds (125 Nm), cleaned threads, and then the threads were to be OILED!  BMW specifically said that the bolt limits would NOT reach their limit of elasticity at that torque, and could be REUSED!    I will NOT tighten them that tight.  Makes me very nervous!  However, some do, and I have heard of no problems reported.  It is YOUR CHOICE.  NOTE also that this is in regards to the 11 mm bolts, and applies to 1981+ models....certainly not the smaller /5 and early /6  10 mm bolts; which need replacement upon each use, which the 11 mm do not, and those 10 mm bolts in the /5 and early /6, are absolutely not be torqued to such high values.   There have been a lot of different specifications on flywheel bolts over the years.    There were two lengths of 10 mm bolts used.  I use, clean and dry, torques of 42-45 foot-pounds on the 1973 and earlier engines; and for the 1974 I use 52-55 ftlbs; and 1975 and later up to the 1981 models, I use about 75 to 80 ftlbs.  I use about 80 ftlbs, clean and dry threads, on 1981+.}

_{Grabby clutch:   If your clutch is grabby, it can be due to a number of causes.  It is IMPORTANT that the transmission input shaft splines be regularly lubricated.  When they get dry, clutch action is poor, and shifting can be stiff and poor.   Never lube the disc spline, just the transmission INPUT spline.   Cleaning and re-lubrication should be done at a mileage and time commensurate with your driving habits and atmospheric conditions.   Moisture condenses on the shaft and the in-out movement during operation of the clutch all conspire to move the grease out of the splines.   Late splines were nickel-plated, and hold up a bit better and longer, regarding lubrication.  Spline wear, if not lubricated, can lead to spline failure, a $$$ situation; especially so on pre-nickel plated ones.   I suggest a look-see and cleaning and lubrication of the splines at 15,000 miles since last cleaning and lubrication, and then adjust the mileage for the next following time.   NOTE that end play of the input shaft can cause a quite-grabby clutch operation, and that can happen cold and/or hot.  More often when hot.  To fix THAT, one must remove and open the transmission and work on the shaft shimming.  One can get an idea if that is a problem by removing the transmission, heating it to about the temperature of boiling water, and measuring, with a dial indicator, the input shaft end play.  Anything over a few thousandths of an inch is suspect.  This problem with transmissions causing a grabby clutch is not overly common, but it seems to be more so for the 1979 models.}

EZ-Clutch:  The pre-1981 clutches have a heavier pull at the bars, some dislike that, or cannot easily cope with it.  There are several types of modifications to fix it, besides the HUGE expense of installing a 1981+ clutch.   Modifications involve a single pulley device or a lever arrangement.  One that is available for purchase is from Craig Vechorik ('Vetch'), dba Bench Mark Works.  (662) 465-6444; located in the USA;   www.benchmarkworks.com   They also have it available from a place in Canada.     There is also a type you could build, that has some advantages over Craig's...as the original cable end can be used.   Here is a website with photos to give you some ideas:  http://www.frankhams.freeserve.co.uk/temporary_uploads/ezclutch_page.htm
There is another type, can't remember the URL for the website.
 

There is a factory tool to help line up the disc when assembling the clutch to the flywheel/carrier.  You don't have to have one, eyeball is good enough.  If you want to make this tool:  

There is a photo of this type of tool in the tools.htm article

Flywheels, clutches, and their bolts: 

1981 and later bikes used Clutch Carriers, NOT officially called flywheels.

 
HINT!.....The early R65 and R45 had smaller clutches than the larger engines did.  The 1989 and 1980 had 6 x 1.00 mm CLUTCH bolts.  The amount to torque the clutch bolts to the flywheel is NOT listed in early BMW literature; and is wrong in some later literature.   There is some confusion over this.  BMW originally had Allen head bolts, then later went to hex head bolts.  I suggest using the hex head bolts.  Some published figures are as high as 17 foot-pounds for the clutch bolts (any style).  That is WAY too high, even for high strength bolts.     I suggest 88 inch-pounds (7-1/2 foot-pounds),  for the 1979-1980; and, use clean, dry threads, then coat before assembly with a light amount of Loctite BLUE.   It is possible that up to 10 foot-pounds is OK, but that would be for high grade bolts only.   Any book figures you see that say 17 foot-pounds, or 15 foot-pounds, is WRONG!

  All 11 mm bolts up through PRE-clutch carrier models (came out in 1981):   The original good specification was:   Torque these to 73 ftlbs.    Threads were to be clean, dry, NO Loctite used.   

Repeating!

     _{BMW Service Information bulletin (we call them SI's), November 1991, #11-049-91, sub number 2495, and this can also be seen on the 12/92 fiche on page 3, G23::    Basically, it stated that while the flywheel bolts were previously at ~75 foot-pounds (100 Nm), they were now to be at 90 foot-pounds (125 Nm), cleaned threads, and then the threads were to be OILED!  BMW specifically said that the bolt limits would NOT reach their limit of elasticity at that torque, and could be REUSED!    I will NOT tighten them that tight.  Makes me very nervous!  However, some do, and I have heard of no problems reported.  It is YOUR CHOICE.  NOTE also that this is in regards to the 11 mm bolts, and applies to 1981+ models....certainly not the smaller /5 and early /6  10 mm bolts; which need replacement upon each use, which the 11 mm do not, and those 10 mm bolts in the /5 and early /6, are absolutely not be torqued to such high values.   There have been a lot of different specifications on flywheel bolts over the years.    There were two lengths of 10 mm bolts used.  I use, clean and dry, torques of 42-45 foot-pounds on the 1973 and earlier engines; and for the 1974 I use 52-55 ftlbs; and 1975 and later up to the 1981 models, I use about 75 to 80 ftlbs.  I use about 80 ftlbs, clean and dry threads, on 1981+.}

Cables: 
32-73-2-324-956 cable is 1460 or 1495 mm long and the sheath is 1285 mm long.  This cable may have been 32-72-1-235-744???
32-73-2-324-958 cable is 1385 mm long, and the sheath portion is 1155 mm long
32-73-2-324-959 cable was used on R65 Euro, 86+RS   is 1386 mm long
32-73-1-230-041 cable is 1320 mm long, and the sheath portion is 1085 mm long
32-73-1-230-042 cable is 1460 mm long, and the sheath portion is 1225 mm long
3273959 is 1361 mm long, sheath is 1130.  Needs confirmation.  Believe was on R45/R65
3273694 is 1469 with 1242 sheath, needs confirmation, believe was used on R45/R65 with high bars.
32-73-2-324-960 is 1625 mm and is on K1100LT
3273957 is 1410 long, sheath 1180, used on R80, R100, Mystic

See www.siebenrock.com for more control cable information

Southland Clutch; 101 E. 18th St., National City, CA, 91950, (619) 477-2105, can resurface all models of Airhead worn clutch parts and supply the thicker clutch disc that is needed after those operations.  Dan Levine.   Dan@southlandclutch.com

 

Clutch Adjustment:
The way I look at the adjustments is to first be sure cable is routed properly, and then tied down only once.  That tie, which must be only moderately tight, should be located roughly midway down the right side frame downtube.  There must be no broken cable strands.  Lubricate the barrel and the transmission ends with moly grease.  I inspect quite carefully the clutch lever at the bars.  The nylon insert in the lever wears, and the lever gets sloppy, and once things are sloppy enough, the cable core strands can foul on the lever slot.   Is even worse if the barrel on the core wires is not rotating in the lever.  On my own bikes I go over this area carefully.  I lube the strands and especially the barrel and lever (the nylon bushing does not need lubricant), and make sure that if the lever is moved UP and DOWN, the cable does NOT foul the lever slot....and that the barrel DOES rotate.  Smooth the barrel metal if it fails to turn properly, check its fit in the lever.     Failure to ensure that the lever, barrel, etc., are OK, could destroy the cable quickly.  Replace the nylon bushing if it is allowing too much slop in the bars lever, an easy job.  These little things can GREATLY extend cable life.

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