Photos
and tech on EML sidecars, early GT2 (two front hinges) and late
model GT2 (single front hinge). May be correct for some
earlier models, and for the Tour-T, and other EML
sidecars. Some background on EZS is
also here.
EMLsidecar8.htm
There
are ALSO some photos in this article of an EARLIER EML sidecar
and its brake caliper and brake pads....for ID purposes,... and a
recommended supplier of brake parts.
NOTE! I have an
old EML brochure, that shows photos of the single front hinge GT2, Midi, Tour,
Mini, GT3E, and Speedline. The rear page of this brochure has the
specifications for those, PLUS the GTE and GT3. I have scanned this
brochure. Due to a nasty light background watermarking (OR dot screening?) on the images
as EML printed this brochure, I have had to scan in very high resolution, for
the brochure to be usable. Due to THAT, I have not put the images
into the page you are looking at, but I HAVE made a hyperlink to them.
There are FOUR images and these are hyperlinked. If you click on them, you
will be taken to that page, which ends in .htm, in my website:
EML Brochure Page 1.tif
EML Brochure Page 2.tif
EML Brochure Page 3.tif
EML Brochure Page 4.tif
NOTE!....These page names may be .tif ending but they may be .jpg (Jpegs), of .Gif"s. The actual page ends in .htm, the images ON those pages are .tif or .gif or .jpg. These images were made to be full screen size on a typical monitor, so you may have to reduce or otherwise manipulate them.
PLUS ...A
step by step how-to article regarding suspension parts overhaul
EMLsidecar8.htm
Who is
EML?...what about EZS?
EML
is E.ML...
E.ML was founded by Hennie Winkelhuis...references
to him, mostly in Dutch, can be found by a Google search on the
Internet...he was heavily involved in racing, W-Tec, quads, Paris
Dakar, etc. He was born in 1948, and died in
May 2007.
E.ML Engineering Holland BV:
Handlelsweg2; NL-7161 BV Neede,
The Netherlands.
+31-0-545-292-154; fax +31-0-545-292-205.
The company is at 20 Magnolia St. Neede is a
small countryside town; and is pronounced nayda.
Note the period after the E in E.ML. The
letters EML stand for Eigen MakeLij, which means
"home-made"....and refers to their off road
sidecars. EML is not always very responsive with
E-mails, but you can try info@EMLSIDECAR.com.
www.emlsidecar.com
Since
the above was written, EML as such no longer exists, but is now
WTech. The situation for older EML parts is unclear.
There is an EML sidecar group: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/EML_SCL/
There is a database being developed on that above website, for parts, etc.
EML
has a representative in the USA, called Eurowing.
They may, in the future, be able to provide SOME parts for the
older models.
Check back on this website, and the above EML website, for the
latest situation.
EZS is another
manufacturer of quality sidecars and mounts, ETC.
The letters EZS stand for Engbers Zijspan Service. They
are located in Zelhem, Holland. Albert Engbers "IS"...well
"WAS" EZS.....the founder, the owner, the
designer, and the constructor. In 2008 he passed EZS to his son, Dave
Engbers. e-mail: info@ezs-sidecar.com
These two manufacturer's, E.ML
and EZS, are less than 30 miles apart, but have no
ties.
EML has had major financial problems over the years.....I have
heard of bankruptcy's, etc. I don't know the present
status.
EML makes nearly everything, such as the suspension parts,
subframes, sidecar tubes, suspensions, etc....themselves,
...in-house, and makes hundreds of sidecars a year. Since
this article is about EML sidecars, I won't delve further into
EZS here....as I do NOT know enough about them....except that they ARE
communicative via E-mail.
***Although this article is
primarily about EML GT2 and Tour-T, and a few other models,
sometimes I run across information on other models....here is one
such piece of information, re-worded from information provided to
the EML Internet Mailing LIST, by Al Olme:
Some early EML sidecars (80's and earlier?) had an ugly-looking front
lamp unit, a combination marker and amber turn
signal...bolted to the outside of the sidecar, it stuck out aways.
Al says that it was made by Hella, still is available, as 2 per
box, under part 003014251, and is not stocked in the USA, but is
orderable from P.U.M.A. Contact "Paul" at
(800)-354-3552
To the meat of this article:
(1)
Here
is a series of four photos of a very early EML sidecar (this is
NOT my sidecar), and of the brake caliper and brake pads used for
it. This brake is the Grimeca, and pads and parts are
available from Michael "Mercury" Morse, at www.vintagebrake.com
NOTE what is in the paragraph a bit above, about the front
lamp unit!
(2)
TWO photos of an early GT2 (TWO front hinges):
Everything that follows from this point, below, is of my own late GT2
Photos
of late GT2 (ONE front hinge). This hinge
is purposely designed so the sidecar opening part swings
slightly away from the motorcycle.
The top I built.
The windows are removable...or, can be rolled up. It is quite
weatherproof.
Photos of the hub and suspension:
NOTE
that this is a RIGHT Brembo F05 caliper
shown rotated from the right photo below. Note also that
the BLEEDER valve on this caliper has been ground-down, so the
wheel parts don't hit it. That makes it difficult to
properly bleed, and one may want to purchase a proper bleeder
valve, which is a very standard 6 mm threaded type with a 8 mm
hex. In fact, the caliper is a very popular old type F05,
not seen too much in the USA however. Some
Grimeca calipers or pads or both are interchangeable with
Brembo!!
Larger diameter wheels on EML's probably don't have the bleeder
problem??
Left F08
caliper
Right F08 caliper
NOTE: F08 calipers are SAME, except slightly larger than
the F05 caliper used on the EML rig. I could not find a
photo of both left and right F05, which is why these are
F08.
NOTE! I have a report from someone that indicates that there is some adjustment of toe-in available via mounting plates and holes....one bolt is in a hole that has a slightly oblong hole in one of the plates. That did not seem correct for MY GT2. Note the above photograph, showing two welded areas. Plate: I did not remove the nut, cotter key, and plate. In this photo, the caliper has been unbolted and the snap-over cover for the brake pads has been removed.
NOTE:
My tug is a BMW K1100LT, which, as delivered from BMW, comes with
a 12 mm Magura-made rear brake system Master Cylinder. That
MC is too small in bore (piston size) for proper brake pedal
movement when the rear braking system is plumbed to the EML disc
brake. The Magura MC is, therefore, changed to 16
mm. EML did this, as well as EZS. I had a
rather difficult time finding out about the Magura details, so I
thought I'd list them here.
Magura part number for the MC is 0131411. It is also called
a 700.33. Magura no longer makes the 0231410,
also called 700.32 (16 mm-L). The only difference is, AFAIK, the
angle of the inlet for the reservoir. The 16 mm Magura was
used not only by EML and EZS, but by KTM on their
motorcycles. For all practical purposes these two MC
are nearly identical. Either can be made to fit just
fine. These Master Cylinders from Magura are made in three piston
sizes: 12 mm, the 700.4, probably what BMW used originally;
13 mm, the 700.12, BLACK, as used on the K100; and the 700.33 or
700.32 which is silver colored. Repair kits for any
of them are available from Magura. For all these MC, the
hydraulic line threads are M10 x 1. For all these MC,
Magura says the 'hub' is 12 mm, and the stroke is 12
mm. I measured the mounting centers at 45
mm. Below are two photos; one of the MC, the other is
the extension pin that fits between the MC piston and the foot
pedal rounded tip special screw. I had problems with my MC, had
to replace it; and, the extension piece was buggered, as was the
BMW foot pedal rounded tip special screw,
34-31-1-451-885. I still have no part number for the
extension piece as in the photo...it is not, per Magura USA, a
standard part from them. However, Magura of Germany says
that the part is in the rebuild kits. BMW does not list the
extension pin separately, but its fiche shows that it is very
likely part of the rebuild kit. The below photo
has notes on it as I sent it to someone for help in identifying
that extension piece.
***When someone replaces a BMW master cylinder, they often just throw away that extension piece, as the new MC comes with one. See your friendly BMW dealership, they may be able to give you the part! I recently got my hands on some stock 12 mm BMW rear Magura cylinders. These had the extension piece that is in the photo, below. They DO come with the cylinder from BMW. NOTE that the 12 mm cylinder has a smaller bore INSIDE the piston where this extension piece fits! It will work, but is not as nice as if a large diameter extension piece was available....and, so far, it is likely to be found ONLY in the Magura 16 mm repair kit!
The O-ring, with the .."why", above, was found to be used so the extension pin would properly fit and be captive in the BMW 12 mm piston diameter MC. So far, no proof that the Magura 16 mm rebuild kit comes with a larger extension piece.
Caliper and Pads and Rebuilt Kits:
The Brembo caliper is model F05, which has 94 mm
mounting centers; and mine has a casting number on
it:
20.2677.00 Mine has a
model number stamped on the outer face: 19C7
This caliper has 32 mm opposed pistons, and is
the same as on some Moto-Guzzi models such as V65,
V50; etc. This model caliper was very popular
and was used on many various vehicles. The caliper is
available in both a right and left hand arrangement, so be SURE
if you replace an entire caliper you get the correct one.
The one I have is a RIGHT HAND (RH) type. Photos of
calipers on the Internet may be confusing, if the view is from
the backside, instead of the frontside; as the EML mounting is
reversed. The F08 photos above are from the frontside.
Note: an almost identical LOOKING
caliper to the F05 is the F08, but it has 108 mm mounting centers
and 38 mm opposed pistons.
If you are going to purchase a
caliper, have it next to the photos....or, better yet, take to a
dealership and be sure to get the proper handed one that matches
yours!
NOTE: The casting number is not
necessarily the same number as the factory caliper number.
As an example of this, the factory numbers for a right hand
standard F05 is 20.2676.40; and for the left hand standard it is
20.2676.41. The factory also has a Gold Line, using the
10.3677.xx numbers, and there is a special LH narrow type, that
uses a thin 3.8 mm disc thickness, as 20.4366.21. So, be
careful with what you order. A good brake supply specialist
knows the details.
The seal and rebuild kit for the F05 caliper is widely available,
it is Brembo 120.2799.10. Brembo
seals are NOT compatible with DOT 5 silicone fluids!
Here
is a URL for a website that has some good photos of the
brakes....see the OEM section!:
http://www.tawvehicle.com/brembo_calipers.htm
that is NOT a hyperlink
Pads:
The best C.O.F. (Coefficient Of Friction) organic pads are the
Ferodo 'Platinum' pads...these are especially good with cast iron
rotors, such as EML used.
Unconfirmed by me is that pads may be for
REAR brake for above Guzzi models and others. However, pads
that were reported to fit and work fine were identified as being
marked (by all these numbers) on the package:
KBA61084 400 Platinum
DP601 FA47.
Package also seemed to indicate Ferodo FD3207P
4541029 I think that the package numbering
might have been too difficult to read, and the real number was
FDB207P the P standing for the
"Platinum" pads.
NOTE: F05 pads are available in numerous
formulations. You want one compatible with YOUR disc, which
is probably cast iron like mine was.
From another source, supposedly at EML, came Ferodo numbers
FD7266 (might be 072686)...but might not be for this GT2
model....and I can't find those numbers. Nor can I
confirm the Ferodo number D346GG nor Brembo 07.2686.13; which
might be for an earlier model caliper??...or the F05???
More research needed here.
NOTE: for most folks, the C.O.F. and amount of braking on a sidecar can be widely different without problems. For those who ride vigorously and spiritedly, it may be more important. Sidecar conversions can have widely differing rear and front braking systems on the tug and sidecar. EML uses hydraulic brakes. Some folks plumb the sidecar brake INTO the tug system, front or rear or combined; or, have a separate pedal, often to a MC that couples only to the EML disc caliper. Because there are such very widely differing systems, including some with ABS or linked, etc., braking systems, I am hesitant to say to only use the Ferodo Platinum. It is my own personal feeling that it WOULD BE best to use just that pad, and if braking is TOO MUCH on the sidecar, and cannot be adjusted lower by whatever other means, that a modification to the sidecar pads is probably easy to do and is likely to be very effective. For most, I doubt they will have any problems without modifying the pads.
Whilst calipers, pads, and other parts, are
widely available, here is just one source; these above folks
are knowledgeable! :
http://www.vintagebrake.com
(209) 533-4346
info@vintagebrake.com
The man to contact, above, is Michael "Mercury"
Morse. He has been very helpful to me, and to other folks.
NOTE: Brembo calipers have always used
hydraulic fittings threads that are 1.0 x 10 mm.
Brembo has always used a natural rubber type of seal, and it is
NOT compatible with DOT 5 silicone fluids...that will cause them
to swell and cause binding problems.
Technical details of the hub and suspension and information on replacing wheel bearings and seals (information on overhauling the shock/spring unit is later in this article):
Inner seal is 32 x 52 x 7 mm (see text about 6
mm vs 7 mm)
Outer seal is 30 x 52 x 7 mm
Bearings I installed are both 6205-C3. The
particular bearings I used were made by SKF, and were
6205-2RSJEM, in C-3 grade. Any QUALITY 6205-C3
bearing can be used. Do NOT use cheap off-branded bearings
from China, Russia, etc. Whether you use an open or
sealed bearing is up to you.
NOTE: When I removed the old bearings, I found the inner bearing to be 6205-2RS1/C HT51. This is a sealed type. I found the outer (wheel side) bearing to be 6205-2Z/C HT51.
Remove the wheel/tire. Remove the two allen bolts holding the caliper to the suspension. Lift off the caliper from the disc, and set the caliper slightly to the rear, being careful not to kink the hose. Do NOT operate the brake pedal or lever, as case may be, whilst the caliper is out of the disc. If you worry about this, insert something into the caliper between the pads. Remove the cotter key at the tub side of the axle that is at the castellated nut. Put a heavy wrench on the 1-1/4th inch castellated nut (actual size seems to be 31.75 mm, so you could also try a 31 or 32 mm wrench). Using a a large adjustable wrench or 24 mm or 15/16" open end wrench on the axle double D flatted area, unscrew the axle/nut. If the assembly is extremely tight, you have have problems gaining proper leverage, in which case you might consider having the inside wrench rest on the rear suspension area, as a support. With the axle out, you can now remove the hub/disc assembly Remove the old seals, using a wood support and a broad screwdriver. AVOID nicking/scraping the hub bore when doing that. Discard the seals. Inspect the hub bearing fit entrance area. If any metal is proud into the bore, fix that first, so the bearing, which is a close fit, can be easily removed in the following procedure:
Heat the hub on a hot plate. The hot plate should have a metal covering or plate. Set the outer, aluminum flange wheel mounting area DOWN onto the hot plate. Heat the top aluminum hub area. The proper amount of heat is until a wetted finger sizzles when touched to the top aluminum hub where the bearing enters. You can put a dry towel over the unit to help heating. Using leather or cloth gloves, and if need be a square drift and very small hammer (carefully, to avoid nicking or scraping the bore), push the bearings out from the other side; repeat for both. They might even fall out. Don't loose the inner sleeve.
Allow the hub assembly to cool. Clean the counterbore very carefully. Use rags and evaporating solvents. Don't leave anything at the sharp lower corner of the counterbore. If there is not a very smooth and SMALL radius for the bearing entry, on both sides of the hub assembly make them. Be SURE the counterbore and hub bore is clean after this. Clean the inner sleeve.
Find something, perhaps an old large socket, that is a SLIGHTLY smaller diameter than the counterbore, that the hub assembly can rest on, when cooling.
Chill the new bearings in your
freezer. Reheat the hub, exactly as before. At
the sizzle temperature (of the aluminum hub area where the
bearing enters), using leather or cloth gloves, drop the new
bearing into the top hub, squarely,
and it should slide right in without any pressure. If you
do not do this squarely, the bearing will not slide right
in. Keeping the bearing in place with a finger or two of
one hand, turn the hub over, and install the SLEEVE, and then the
other bearing. Immediately, while the hub is still at
sizzle temperature, place the hub with its new bearings and the
sleeve, over the old large socket that fits into the counterbore
area, and set the entire assembly on a table to cool.
Be sure the top bearing is seated. The outer
hub should be UP, disc DOWN. The bearings should have
remained FULLY installed. BE SURE that they are. Let
the hub cool to at least handling temperature, or to room
temperature. Then set the hub on the bench, either
side up is OK from now on.
Installing
the seals:
BE SURE you use the CORRECT size seals at the correct side!
The INNER seal has the 32 mm center; the OUTER seal is the 30
mm. Double check yourself before starting the seal work,
and during it!
Install the outer seal so that it is flush, or not more than a
tiny bit below flush.
NOTE on the inner seal thickness:
The counterbore depth on the suspension (inside) of the hub is
LESS than that depth at the outer seal. When you install a
7 mm seal on the inside of the hub, that seal will be slightly
proud of the surface. For a perfect flat fit, you could use
a 6 mm seal. HOWEVER, you will probably find that 6 mm
seals are not all that common, AND, you will probably find that
the 7 mm seal will put the sealing LIP in a good position for the
suspension seal lip area.
Place fresh grease liberally into a seal's open end. Install the seal, using an old socket that is a small amount smaller in diameter than the seal outside diameter. Install the seal EVENLY and SQUARELY, open greased end towards the new bearing. Lubricate the seal lip with grease. Do the other side with the other seal in the same manner. Be very careful not to nick the seal inner lip(s).
The hub is now almost ready to be reinstalled. Clean, and if need be, polish, with very very fine grit sandpaper the suspension lip...and be sure its outer edge is not sharp. If the lip is gritty, it will wear out the new seal in short order.
Clean the suspension lip bore area. Clean up the axle....the flatted end is often buggered-up, and you do NOT want that end ruining the new outer seal. Be sure the suspension lip is greased lightly, as is the axle over its length, including the seal area next to the double D flatted area. Install the hub and axle slowly and carefully, to avoid seal damage. Install the castellated nut rather tightly, and align the axle whilst doing this, so that the NEW cotter key can be properly installed. ...remember that you have to bend one tang of the cotter key back over the axle end or the nut.
Reassemble the caliper, etc. to the suspension. Inspecting the caliper pads, and caliper pistons, etc., for dirt, etc., is a good idea before assembling.
Cautions:
1. Do NOT press the bearings out, or in, with
the hub cold
2. Don't forget the inner spacer when installing the new
bearings. If you do forget it is not a big deal, the hub is
usable without it.
3. You can use sealed or non-sealed bearings. If you
use non-sealed bearings, be sure they are well packed with a
quality non-fibrous wheel bearing grease before the seals
are installed, with extra grease in the cavity area.
4. Use only grade C3 bearings. Do NOT use tighter tolerance
bearings.
5. Be sure the area of the axle where it fits into the
outer seal is smooth....be very careful that it is, so the axle,
lightly greased, will pass into the seal without nicking the
sealing lip(s).
6. Be sure that the lipped area of the suspension is smooth
too.
Shock
absorber & Spring unit:
Numbers below (xx) refer to photo of the
disassembled unit
Note:
This shock absorber is more sophisticated than it appears at
first glance, after disassembly. It is velocity sensitive,
and stiffens in a situation where, for example, there may be
multiple quick irregularities in the road.
I will be describing the shock absorber as
having a top and a bottom. The shock absorber is
installed with the Adjustor (8) DOWNward, slanted, so that end is
the "bottom", herein.
The steel body of the shock absorber unit is item marked as #16.
The top eye (11) is fitted, as is the bottom eye, with a stiff
rubber mount part that has a steel center sleeve, and it is via
this sleeve that bolts pass through to mount the shock unit to
the sidecar suspension and frame. The top eye (11)
has fitted to it a hard-chromed (for long wear) steel ROD.
Unless the rod is damaged, there is NO reason to try to remove it
from the top eye (11). I have NO idea where one
might obtain a rod. If damaged, an original rod probably
could be ground and re-plated with hard chrome.
The shock absorber assembly has ONE owner-adjustment; that is the
aluminum bottom part (8), hereinafter called the Adjustor,
that has the decorative vertical grooves. Whilst many
motorcycle shock absorber spring units are adjusted by a hooked
spanner wrench, that is not so on this EML shock. This part
is meant to be adjusted by one's hand....probably easier with the
suspension extended,.... that means jacking the main sidecar
frame (not suspension), until the wheel is just barely off the
ground. This item (8) has a rubber O-ring both inside
(in a groove for it, item #1) the lower area of this Adjustor,
that serves almost no purpose except to keep dirt out of the
internal threads; and a similar O-ring above it, item #15, same
idea. I believe the threads, as well
as these O-rings and the top ADJUSTOR-to-bottom-item #14 mating
surfaces, should be lubricated with silicon grease during
assembly, to make the Adjustor work more smoothly with less
effort, over long periods of time.
The Adjustor part (8) has finely pitched internal threads, mating to hidden threads (when assembled) on the outside of the shock absorber body. Thus, numerous turns of this Adjustor can be made. The adjustment is for preload on the SPRING, to set ride height for weight being carried. The Adjustor does NOT adjust the shock absorber internals. The Adjustor (8) is internally threaded nearly its entire length, so it can be adjusted fairly high, as well as quite low. Item #14 sits just above this Adjustor (8), and between them is one of the O-rings. Item #14 is close fitting, but movable, on the shock body (16). Item #14 does NOT move further DOWNWARD into the body (16) threaded area, so the Adjustor (8) for DISasssembly...or REassembly, should be moved upwards until it contacts #14, and then maybe a turn or so more, before the spring is removed or replaced....as compressing the spring is needed for removing or replacing #12.
In order to remove the spring, the Adjustor (8) can be lowered substantially (not too far), but the spring will still have to be SLIGHTLY compressed so the Keeper/Top Perch (12) can be removed, as it has a lower lip.
Spring (13):
free standing length:
7.75"
coils
diameter:
0.300" as stock, chrome plated
outside
diameter: 2.325"
Shock absorber over-all length, as assembled, center of eye #17
to center of eye #11, 12-3/16" approximately.
You MAY have to fashion some sort of a press,
if the EML spring on your shock is stiffer than the one on
mine.... to allow you to remove the keeper (#12).... so the
spring (#13) can be removed. Do
NOT scratch or nick the piston ROD!!
I did NOT have to use a
press, as when I unscrewed #18 far enough (but nowhere's near the
end of threads, nor even near covering any of the eye....I could
press with my fingers on the upper spring area, and remove the
keeper relatively easily.
NOTE!...Spring (#13) fits INto the top of item #14. There MAY be a difference between one end of YOUR spring and the other end, be sure you fit the spring so it SEATS on the LIP of #14.
After the spring (13) is removed, you can test
the shock unit by hand pressure, moving the eye ends (11 and
(17), towards and away from each other, at varying amounts of rod
depth and speed. Do this with the Adjustor end (8)
DOWNward. When a shock absorber fails, it
usually does so from fluid leaking by the top seals (9 and 9A),
and the resulting failure is usually a fairly 'dead' position,
easily felt, for small or modest up and down movements of the
piston ROD. Move the piston ROD to near fully-out, and
middle, and near fully-in positions, checking EACH with short
movement. Move it over the full range in one motion
too. Dead spots are NOT acceptable. A good shock unit
has NO dead spots over any part of its normal travel.
The major reason for a dead spot on this type of shock absorber
is a lack of enough oil. Since the shock's normal position
with a light load in the sidecar is with the shock unit nearly
fully extended, be sure to test in that condition too.
NOTE that it is possible to overfill this shock absorber
You need to fashion a tool to unscrew the top plate (8),
which has 4 holes for a sturdy pin wrench. Fashion a proper
tool, this is NOT the place to use a hammer and a round
punch. The top plate (8) may be very
tight. If your pin wrench will not loosen it, place
the shock unit in your freezer overnight, first...the aluminum
top plate (8) should shrink more than the steel body, easing its
removal. When I
reassembled the shock absorber, I made sure the inside and
outside threads were clean and dry, then I put a light smear of
Hylomar sealant onto the CAP threads, letting the sealant set up
a few minutes in the air, before tightening it with the pin
wrench. I did this to give added protection against any oil
leakage.
NOTE that this top plate (8) has TWO oil seals (9, 9A), and they
are NOT the same seals! The top cap is counterbored at each
end, where the two seals (9, 9A) are installed. I measured
the approximate size of these seals and of the counterbore
areas. The two counterbore areas are NOT the same
diameter. The lower bore has a diameter of
0.745" (18.9 mm); the top bore (this is the bore that
contains the seal one sees from the outside after the unit is all
assembled) is 0.710" diameter (18.03 mm). The
chromed piston ROD is 0.470" diameter (11.94
mm). I inspected the existing seals.
They are squarely pressed-in, perhaps helped by heating the top
plate (8).
The TOP seal had the name ERIKS on it, with numbering
of 12 18 3.5 -
5 exactly as shown to the left
here. Obviously this means a seal of 12 mm central
hole, 18 mm outside diameter; not sure of the 3.5, but 5 mm
for mounting width is correct. This seal was unusual
in that it had a projection upwards, tapered, that would help
keep filth out of the shock unit. THAT may have been the
""3.5"" . I was totally unable to
get Eriks distributor or factory to respond in my request for
information and availability on this seal. For that
matter, I could not identify the exact Merkel seal below, either,
with distributors. The numbering is too old, or,
foreign, or??
The LOWER seal had a number S9251+ on it, and mfr was
Merkel. The lower counterbore diameter was 0.745"
(18.9mm). Thus, I suspect we need a 19 mm OD seal,
with a 12 mm inside diameter, 5 mm width. NOTE
that these seals do NOT have the same style of lip, etc.
What
I did: Not being able to
locate the original seals, and NOT being happy with the lower
seal in any event, I decided to install standard industrial
lipped seals, of the type backed up on one side, with a 'garter
spring'.
The TOP seal I used was: 12 x 18 x 3 mm
type HMS4R; AND, this seal was installed with the garter spring,
open side, DOWNWARD. I could not find a seal like the
original, which had a tapered section going upward....that is, it
would stick well up towards the spring eye. A 5 mm or even
wider seal could be used at the top.
The BOTTOM seal I used was: 12 x 19 x 5 mm
type HMS4R. When selecting a seal, note that this
seal can not be too much wider than 5 mm as the SLIDER has a
projection at its top, that fits into the bottom seal cavity very
slightly. The direction for seal's installation could be
debated. For best sealing against pressure from the
oil/air inside the shock, the seal would have its garter
downward. Upward might seal better against dirt.
Many other types of seals could be used. I
installed the seals with the top cap hot, with a trace of rubber
cement around the outside diameter of the seals, but I think the
seals could be installed with the top cap at room temperature and
without any cement. Seals in many widths are
available. 3 mm, 4.5 mm, 5 mm, and even wider.
Nitrile would be a good material for the seals. Seals are
usually manufactured as 18 or 19 mm, but they are, in fact, made
very slightly larger, so they are a press fit. I say that
just in case you see your 18 seal being 18.059, the 19 at
19.23...or some such.
I hoped these seals would provide total sealing against oil
leakage and from outside dirt and filth.
After you remove the top cap (8) with the 4
pin wrench you made; and, remove the ROD/top eye (11), you will
find that the steel shock absorber body (16) contains a precision
INternal sleeve, in its lower body area. It is inside
this sleeve that the piston (3) and some other parts operate.
Describing the eye (11)/ROD assembly from the top;....the
eye (11) with its steel sleeve surrounded by rubber, has the long
piston ROD going downward. On that ROD are located the
following parts, continuing here going downward:
a. A large rubber bumper (10) that
prevents the ROD assembly from bottoming out in the lower steel
body (16) of
the shock
absorber. This bumper (10) is about 3.85" in
diameter, has its rounded nose end DOWNWARD,
and its width is
about 0.95". Its inside diameter is such that it can move
with slight pressure on the rod.
b. The threaded aluminum top cap (8) you
unscrewed to gain access, that has the 4 pin holes. This
part contains
internal seals, 9 and
9A, for which replacements are NOT YET clear to me.
c. A rubber O-ring (7), of approximately
1.222" inside diameter, 1.425" outside diameter,
0.095" thickness. These numbers
do
not exactly add up,
that is, twice the thickness plus the ID is not the OD...due to
inability to measure the old one
exactly.
This rubber
O-ring (7) fits in a machined area of the SLIDER, and I make note
here that this machined area is similar
to the one at
the other end of the SLIDER, but the LOWER end of the SLIDER does
NOT have an O-ring fitted; AND
the
LOWER end of the SLIDER has three notches machined into the outer
edge; AND, a small hole in
the lower
flange. Do NOT! install the slider upside down!!!
The TOP
flange of the SLIDER has a 0.744" round projection at
the center...that fits into the top cap
slightly. This particular
top O-ring is mickey-mouse,
in MY estimation, as to how it mounts...as nothing is there to
keep it from slipping off the top of
the SLIDER and moving
inwards. Be careful upon assembly, after which it will be
OK.
d. There is a harder rubber bumper (6)
of 0.903" outside diameter; 0.20" width, fitted just
below the SLIDER. Its inside
diameter is such
that it moves relatively freely on the rod.
e. A steel plate (5), domed on
one side, with the FLAT side UP.
f. A much thinner steel plate (4).
g. A piston (3) of alloy material,
containing not just its center mounting hole, but 6 surrounding
holes. The FLAT end of this
piston must be
UP. In that position, a nut (2), 13 mm wrench size, is in
the lower counterbored end of the piston. I used
Loctite
BLUE on cleaned
threads.
It
is CRITICAL that these parts all...especially the steel plates
and piston...be installed correctly, in the correct order!
NOTE ESPECIALLY the fitment of the domed washer (#5), the DOME
fits DOWNward against plate (#4)!
This shock absorber works in BOTH directions, and its action in those directions is NOT equal, by design. That is, the 'bound-rebound' are quite different. The unit is also velocity sensitive. The fit of the piston (3) to the inside lower body (16) sleeve ensures that relatively no oil bypasses the operating piston (3) six holes area via the piston-to-sleeve wall clearance during operation. The notches in the alloy traveling SLEEVE, together with the lower steel plates 4, 5) and piston (3) holes, determine SOME of the characteristics of the shock absorber (together with the diameter of the piston, notches in the SLIDER, etc). Do NOT change the size of holes, notches, etc., unless you are an expert at modifying shock absorbers! The ONE thing that you CAN do to modify the characteristics, is to change the viscosity of the oil. The oil should be of a type meant for shock absorbers or suspensions. It should have a GOOD Viscosity Index, which means that it does not change thickness too rapidly with temperature changes. Shock units are affected not only by ambient temperatures, but as the road surface becomes more and more irregular, the shock unit is moving fluid internally through its, in effect, orifices, and the fluid will heat up some from this 'work'. I recommend you do NOT change the oil viscosity.
The shock unit I worked on for this article had a few ounces at best of fluid left in it. I set up a crude apparatus to measure the oil viscosity at room temperature, as best I could. I compared the oil with known viscosity suspension/shock fluid oils. I used the same temperature (55°F happened to be the temperature in the shop that day) for all tests. I measured the time in seconds for the same amount of fluid to flow, from a same size tiny diameter of outlet, from a same tallness of container. Admittedly a crude method; non-the-less it gave reasonably repeatable results. I tested quite a few synthetic and part-synthetic fork oils & suspension fluids. I used ONE well-known high quality and reliable brand, so all tests would be repeatable and usable from the manufacturer's stated specifications. It is not widely known that various shock and suspension fluids will vary, considerably, between brands.
Fluid
quantity and recommendations, etc:
The STOCK oil in the EML 310 seems to be
closely equivalent to two different Spectro Oils products; I
selected one of these products, as the other one is not
formulated for long term use (it is a race fluid, needing
seasonal changes). The fluid I selected is: Golden
Spectro Shock Fluid, Ultra
Light, code L.SFUL. It
has a manufacturer's specification at 40°C of 10.4 cST, and a VI
of 385. That should be good in this
application.
Whilst there are formulas on this website to convert cST to SUS,
I will do it for you: SUS = 61
Do NOT! install engine oils, heavy fork oils, and so on.
Operation of this shock absorber, with its upper air chamber,
will aerate the oil (cause bubbles). Do not overfill this
shock absorber, it will get very stiff in operation.
If you do not like its performance, try increasing the oil
quantity by 15 cc or so each time until it performs as you like
it. THAT is preferable than a thicker oil.
***If someone was going
to put relatively heavy loads in the sidecar, a fluid that was a
bit higher in viscosity than the stock original fluid might be
considered. The above Spectro fluid, but
in grade "Very Light" would be a good choice.
STILL, I prefer using a slightly increased quantity of
oil...perhaps 25 cc additional.
One of the things I was
concerned about was not just how much oil, but IF there was
supposed to be an AIR CUSHION above the fluid level. I did
a fair amount of experimentation, and a lot of thinking about
this. I am not 100% sure I am correct in this...but....
I looked at the design of the shock unit,
particularly the SLIDER function, many times. The
function of the PISTON, domed washer, and steel disc, are very
simple to understand...NOT SO the operation of the slider and
area in the slider and above it..
I then started filling the shock using an accurate glass
graduate, a small amount at a time, and testing the shock by hand
each time. I found the correct amount, I THINK... to be
about 100 cc. The correct amount will fill the lower
INSIDE chamber, plus about 1/16" or so above that level. It
was possible to put considerably more oil in the shock, enough,
in fact, that with the piston and rod fully down, that the TOP
CAP would just be screwable home, without leaking from internal
pressure at the top cap seals. YOUR results may
vary.
Electrics:
Tail Light housing:
Tail Light plastic lens: The tail light
MAY be the same as from the right hand REAR side of a 1985 Suzuki
Alto. My GT2 had markings on this plastic lens:
SAE A 84
1A E6 014246
Tokaidenso, Japan 35603-7800R
amber part had 6313 on it; the red part had 7326 on
it, and 85003
Front Light housing:
Possibly an early Mazda, Mazda part
BZ0189662 ???
Front Light plastic lens: My GT2 had
markings on this plastic lens:
210-41788R Jap. "Koito"
brand with markings: <716
<859
<197
NOTE!
There is an EML sidecar group on the Internet:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/EML_SCL/
Release: 01-19-2007
Revisions and dates:
01/23/2007: annotations, pad information, information on
lenses
01/27/2007: minor editing and clarifications
02/21/2007: update brake pads, calipers, and kit
information
02/28/2007: More info...Flexit, EZS, etc.
04/25/2007: Add Magura information
05/23/2007: Put ELECTRICS in proper sequence, and clean up
page appearance slightly; minor updates.
07/18/2007: Add hyperlink
09/17/2007: Add information on old EML front marker lamps
10/13/2007: Add 4 photos of very early EML and Grimeca
brake
02/16/2008: Updated information about EML, Eurowing, and
EML Yahoo groups website additional notes
03/15/2008: Removed Flexit information, which will be put in its own
article
05/05/2008: Add right rear view of my rig, for a view of the top I built.
09/18/2008: Add section with hyperlinks to the EML old brochure
10/06/2008: very minor updating on EZS
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