The ads above are Google-sponsored.
Clicking on them at every visit helps support this website!
Clicking on something inside an advertisement helps even more!
I appreciate your remembering to click on various advertisements,
at the top of every page you visit!
AND....thanks for the occasional donation!

WARNING!!

FLYWHEEL  or  CLUTCH CARRIER REMOVAL or REPLACEMENT!!
Front main bearing cap/holder/carrier.
MAIN SEAL Installation. 
Grabby clutch.
Crankshaft. 
Oil pump & oil pump cover.
Timing Chest Seals.  Rod bearings.  
Rod bolt tool.  VIBRATIONS.
 

Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/flywheelremovalwarning.htm
Article 60, sub-section 2
  


 


This is... or can be... CRITICAL! ...so Flywheel (or Clutch Carrier) Removal/Replacement is the first item here!  Please read this entire section, bounded by thick red lines; re-read until you understand it all!
 

>>>>If you remove your flywheel for any reason, be sure to FIRST set the engine to OT, top dead center, Oberer Totpunkt, and be sure that OT is STILL in the timing window when replacing the flywheel.

There are potential trouble areas when removing & replacing a flywheel (or, from 1980, called the Clutch Carrier). First trouble area is the moving of the INNER HIDDEN thrust washer off its two locating pegs, WHICH YOU MUST PREVENT.  This is done by the use of a crankshaft blocking tool, information later herein (with photos).  There is a second thrust washer, a REAR one, similar-looking, but usually a slightly different thickness compared to the front one; and, it can also come off its two locating pegs.  It must be on its pegs, & not be rotatable by your fingers (check!) before you reinstall the flywheel.  Sometimes the pegs do not stick rearward very much.  

You can use a very thin amount of a soft grease to 'stick' the rear thrust washer to the boss/pins.  
Thrust washers are listed in parts catalogs by that name, & also by such names as stop discs, thrust discs, or stop rings.


Below three photos show why the thrust rings must not be allowed to come off their two locating pegs; they will be ruined by tightening the flywheel bolts if they come off their pegs. FURTHER, if you continue tightening, there is a great danger of cracking the rear engine case.
 

Inside the crankcase, showing where forward thrust washer fits onto the pegs, crankshaft removed. There are only two pins & they go completely through.  They must be rearwards enough for the rear thrust washer to fit & not fall off. If they  seem a bit short on the rearward side, but the thrust washer fits adequately, add a tiny amount of some soft grease to the forward side of the rear thrust washer during assembly...that will keep it in place, like glue, until the flywheel (or clutch carrier) is installed and fully bolted-up.

 

Three assorted thrust washers. Details are much further down in this article.

 

Crankshaft installed slightly forward & tilted to show some clearance at thrust washer.

 

Photos courtesy of Marten Walkker; with permission to use.

When you remove the flywheel, such as to replace a main seal, oil pump seal, etc., it is CRITICAL that the crankshaft be BLOCKED from moving forward.  This blocking is usually done by some sort of makeshift tool that places pressure against the alternator rotor center bolt.   This can be done in many ways, and here are some examples:

1.  A piece of 2 x 4  lumber bungeed to the cylinders or exhaust pipes; with a screw to press against the rotor bolt. 

2. 
A small easy-to-make tool can be made of a piece of Allen wrench with a welded or brazed fender washer on one end. This is what Snowbum uses to hold crankshaft from moving forward.  Make the tool out of a piece of 6 mm Allen wrench material. Weld a steel disc or 'fender washer', perhaps one of 1 inch in diameter, onto one end of the cut piece of allen wrench material.  The washer should be maybe 1/16" thick (not critical, no harm with thicker).  Make the length such that the Allen end fits FULLY into the stock existing alternator bolt, & the disc end presses against the inner surface of the timing chest cover.  Usually ~3/4 inch overall.  Weld the washer squarely to the straight piece of 6 mm Allen wrench. Make the disc a double-D, as shown, to fit into existing casting ridges. This tool is very unlikely to allow the crankshaft to move forward during operations. The last time I made one of these, I made it to fit my 83-84 bikes; the OVERALL length was 3/4". The outer cover holds it in place,the tool being made just a bit too long to allow the cover to fully bolt-up to the engine; this gives a bit of pressure (do NOT but LIGHTLY tighten the cover bolts!!). The tool's Allen end simply fits into the existing alternator rotor bolt head. The length should be such that there can be some light pressure applied by the cover when the cover is screwed back onto the engine LIGHTLY, but the length of the tool is such that the cover can't be brought back fully to the engine surface. DO NOT over-tighten the cover...there is NO NEED TO.   
 





3.  Here is a photo of how a very simple bolt method is used.   "Source: Brook Reams, http:brook.reams.me"; by permission.  An 8 mm bolt, of appropriate length, placed into alternator's existing and remaining allen-head bolt, simply as a spacer, so that the outer cover can be NOT QUITE brought fully-home to the engine, with LIGHT pressure on the cover's bolts. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4.  You could remove the stock alternator's special allen bolt and install some other bolt temporarily, at the correct distance proud of the alternator rotor, to engage the outer cover, as previously described...and see below too.


W
hatever tool you use, be sure it cannot rotate and thus loosen its pressure if you rotate the flywheel (or, in later models, called the clutch carrier).


If you do NOT block the crankshaft, there is a REAL RISK of the crankshaft moving forward a small amount.  Sometimes very little movement will cause the forward thrust washer to move off its pegs.  The thrust washer will then not be aligned on those pegs as you tighten the flywheel bolts (you do not have to tighten very much to cause damage). HUGE RISK of MAJOR DAMAGE to the thrust washer AND you could damage OR RUIN the engine casting!

With a thrust washer having fallen off its pegs, you will find that the crankshaft will essentially freeze up as you tighten those bolts.  You REALLY DO NOT want this happening!!  You do NOT want to even get near the point of the crank freezing up.  

If you forgot or did not know about blocking the crankshaft, then you will want to know IF the crankshaft has moved.  The sketch, well below, will give you the information.  If you have ruined a REAR thrust washer, that is NOT a disaster (assuming you did not injure the bosses area).   You just need another thrust washer of the SAME COLOR identification.   Sizes are also listed in the literature.   Towards the end of the article you are reading here, I also have the information for you.

If you have SECURELY blocked the crankshaft before unfastening the flywheel bolts, you have nothing to worry about regarding the crank moving & the forward thrust washer dropping.  
You must just be careful about the rear thrust washer coming off its pegs, when you re-install the flywheel.

The only way to see & get to (however slightly) & MAYBE get the forward thrust washer back in place if it has moved off the pegs, but is undamaged, is either by removal of the right cylinder.....or totally disassembling the engine.  HOWEVER, you MAY have lucked-out, so scan down a few paragraphs to the following section: "Another way of explaining things:" Probably you will NOT be lucky.

Do NOT think that you can fully tighten the flywheel bolts to see if the crank will start to seize up; that is, if engine rotation becomes more difficult.  By the time you tighten that much you already have likely caused damage.  If you think you may have goofed, take measurements!  If the forward thrust washer has already been destroyed/damaged, then disassembling the entire engine is your only option.  This is very serious, with many ramifications not mentioned here.  So, heed my words, heed this article!!  BLOCK THE CRANK!!


YES, I am WELL AWARE that many have never had a problem from not blocking the crankshaft. PLEASE heed MY cautions; DO block your crankshaft.

Below is a sketch of the flywheel & end of the crankshaft of your Airhead.  Following this section is information on main seals, etc. Dimension B is the depth of the flywheel (or clutch carrier, as it is called on 1981+ models) where the crankshaft boss fits into.  The sketch is simplified.  Another way of explaining things: A must be greater than B by at least .05 mm.  If A is LESS than B, by, perhaps, 3 or 4 mm, then the crank has moved forward; a thrust washer has slipped.  If you try to bolt-up the flywheel, serious damage will occur. If the amount of forward movement is quite small, you may be able to move the crankshaft backwards with some relatively modest pressure at the alternator rotor. This might also be done by bolting up the flywheel to the crankshaft VERY LOOSELY & moving the flywheel rearward by hand pressure.   If you can move the crank by either method to the proper dimensions, A is larger than B, you have 'lucked-out', & you can tighten up the crank to torque specifications & the crankshaft will not lock-up.  Be really careful!


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Things look a little bit different for the clutch carrier models (1981+), but you will be able to see if there is a problem by taking the measurements. 

I cannot emphasize enough how much I recommend you BLOCK THE CRANKSHAFT, by one of the methods outlined earlier in this article......thereby totally avoiding any problem...and you certainly will have no need to take these measurements. 
 


Flywheel bolt torques :

This is in reference to a BMW Service Information bulletin (we call them SI's), dated November 1991, #11-049-91, sub-number 2495, & this can also be seen on the 12/92 fiche on page 3, G23.   In brief, it stated that while the flywheel bolts were previously at ~75 foot-pounds (100 Nm), they were now to be at 90 foot-pounds (125 Nm),... first you cleaned the threads,... & then the threads were to be OILED!  BMW specifically said that the bolt limits would NOT reach their limit of elasticity at that torque, & could be REUSED!   

I personally get nervous at 90 foot pounds & oiled, so I will NOT tighten them that tight.  However, some do; I have heard of no problems reported.  It is YOUR CHOICE.  NOTE that this is in regards to the 11 mm bolts...certainly not to the  /5 & early /6  smaller 10 mm bolts.  These early bike 10 mm bolts need replacement upon each use, which the 11 mm do not (unless overtorqued).  Those 10 mm bolts in the /5 & early /6 are absolutely not be torqued to such high values.   There were two lengths of 10 mm bolts used.

There have been a lot of different specifications on flywheel bolts over the years.    I use (clean & dry) torques of 42-45 foot-pounds on the 1973 & earlier engines; for the 1974 I use 52-55 ftlbs; for 1975 & later models I use about 75 to 80 ftlbs.   I am OK with any of the bolts being faintly oily.  Some aftermarket literature will show different flywheel bolt torques for different engine sizes for the same year.  DISREGARD such advice. The big difference is in the size of the bolts, with the earlier 10 mm bolts using substantially less torque.

For additional details.....read the section on flywheel bolts:  http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm


Crankshaft rear main seal:  
 

If you remove your flywheel (also known, from 1981, as the Clutch Carrier) for any reason, be sure to FIRST set the engine to OT, top dead center, Oberer Totpunkt.  Be sure that OT is STILL in the timing window when replacing the flywheel. This ensures that you have not rotated the crankshaft to a wrong position in the crankshaft holes.

Crankshaft main seals came in a number of styles over the years.   The very latest seal, of a Teflon-like material, is quite different in design from the early seals.   The latest type is 11-11-1-338-342.
 

A type of geese-honking noise can sometimes be heard on an engine with the old style seals.  This noise comes from the slight vacuum created in the crankcase as the pistons go OUTWARDS, & the atmospheric pressure, being higher in the clutch area, pushes air into the engine.  The biggest problem is NOT THE NOISE; but that clutch dust, which is abrasive, moves through that seal, slowly eating it away.  This is not good for the rear of the engine, let alone anyplace else the grit gets into.  It primarily happens on old worn seals, even if not yet leaking oil.  CHANGE THAT SEAL!

Early seals were very conventional looking, a white color lipped rubber seal (there have been more than one type of lip & seal color) with a coiled spring backup.  For the /6 & later, BMW ADDED an O-ring in the flywheel bore.  For the /7 & later BMW added a metal cap ("Guide Ring"); the O-ring is inside.  In 1981, BMW changed the design of the flywheel/clutch for lighter weight, which gave faster engine acceleration & deceleration due to less inertia....unfortunately with more vibration.  Other effects from this change were to reduce clutch hand lever pressure & a changed shifting feel, depending on throttle setting.  The light and redesigned flywheel then had a new name: clutch carrier. 

The pre-1981 heavier flywheel had the main seal lip resting on the flywheel boss, so when the flywheel was inserted into the engine, the seal sort-of curled; ever so slightly inward.   For those earlier models, I have recommended that the flywheel seal area be laboriously
polished with ONLY crocus cloth (use a bit of kerosene).  Crocus cloth is a super-fine-grit polishing paper.  Absolutely no fingernail-felt- irregularities are allowed in the flywheel sealing area...although discoloration is normal.  All seals before the latest Teflon type, 11-11-1-338-342, were installed slightly different or to controlled depths to avoid old rubbed areas. 

Main Seals often fit very tightly, & you might have problems trying to get them into their cavity.  It REALLY DOES HELP to warm the engine case up considerably in the main seal area; and this can take quite awhile.  Lightly oil the seal before you install it.  Install it squarely...it must be installed straight & square.

The cap, or "guide ring", is used on the later models.  The clutch carrier fits to it, the guide ring is over the crankshaft; it has a center lug to enable it to be pulled rearward by a factory tool.  To replace a main seal remove the guide ring first.  You can improvise.  You can use a flat punch to rotate the ring until some of each crankshaft hole is covered, then pry to the rear....use a small screwdriver or similar, pry a bit on each hole/guide ring.   Be careful not to damage the guide ring nor the threads.  Once the guide ring is out, you can remove the main seal.   The Guide Ring can deteriorate (hard coating).  If the surface appears to be deteriorating, that surface could have teeny imperfections that would eventually tear-up a new main seal.  Replace the Guide Ring if it has  deteriorated.

With the guide ring removed, you then install the new-style main seal.  The guide ring (with a new O-ring!) is then moved into the main seal, using the carrier bolts.  When using the bolts for that, you may need to use spacers under the bolt heads....see the guide ring installation photos, later here, showing the bolts with some sort of junk-box provided spacers under them, to allow the bolt heads to be turned properly.   As the guide ring is installed, it makes the "Teflon-like" seal working part move forward.  That helps the seal maintain oil integrity as crankcase pressures increase during engine operation. 

Leaks that seem to be the rear crankshaft seal could actually be that rubber O-ring.   However, determining which is which may not be so simple, so most just replace both mainseal & O-ring.

Main seals can be installed using the special factory tool, but if you are careful, you can do this with a prepared block of wood...but I recommend Ed Korn's or similar plate tool.  Install the seal absolutely straight & square.  While I think ONLY the latest seals type should be used, which is installed to full depth, if you have an older style seal you are installing, you would install at the same original depth...except that early flywheels with a big radius are best installed not quite fully...maybe a mm will be proud of the surface.   See notes below.

 

Here is a link to a pdf file on this website that has the factory information on the new style seals:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/SI-00-053-88-new-style-seals.pdf

MORE on the new style seal:
The latest 11-11-1-338-342 seal is a "Teflon-like" (PTFE) seal.    NOTE that it is designed so if you install it squarely, you can install it fully, without bothering about setting the depth. ...but read the following:

There area two types of flywheel (or clutch carriers) in use.  If the front end has a small radius, then the seal is installed to full depth.  If there is a taper, as on early flywheels, then the seal is rearward a small amount, about 1 or 1-1/2 mm.  Oak uses rear ring gear shims for that, installing the shims, then the seal.  I don't....because I don't have any stock of them anymore, and they are not absolutely needed.  Early style tapered flywheels do not require the seal to be 'preformed', but I do it anyway.


Hints: The latest seal needs no oil soaking; but you can install it oiled or lightly greased a bit for ease of installation.
While you do NOT have to do this, I do: soak the new seal & installation tool in 150F +-   engine oil for a few minutes...the warmth helps prepare the seal, perhaps softening it.  

If you have an earlier style new seal (are there any still around?)...I suggest you toss it and use the new style seal.

BEFORE INSTALLING THE SEAL:
Using a very fine sandpaper, sand the aluminum entrance edge to the bore in the case to allow the seal to press-in easily.  CLEAN IT.   Oil slightly (or lightly grease) the bore area of the engine case that the seal fits into & the seal outer too.  If you heat (it takes a fair amount) the engine case around the prepared seal bore area, then add a tad of grease or oil, the seal will press-in much easier.

If you fail to oil or grease the new seal during assembly, it may squeak for a short while after engine start, until oil works its way to the seal.    Press the new seal in squarely, using a flat plate seal installation tool, or fashion something.   Install the flywheel (carrier) with a bit of oil on the nose.  Keep in mind what I said earlier about the seal depth and taper on the flywheel nose.

Oak did an article on main seal installation in the MAY 2004 issue of AIRMAIL (see page 17-18)...where he discusses much of this in some depth, in response to a question posed by someone.  

Be sure the 5 holes in the guide ring are exactly aligned with the crank holes, as you do this job.  

If you use one of the plates-type of installation tools, you do not tighten the bolts very much.

Some recommend installing the flywheel when it has been heated fairly hot.  When you align a 'flywheel' to the crankshaft, install by eyeball first.  YOU SHOULD HAVE previously set the pistons fully outward so that now, when you reinstall the flywheel, its OT mark is in the timing window (checked that pistons are fully outwards).  Then insert the bolts lightly, finger tighten, & then find the centering point of the assembly, by moving the flywheel CW & CCW, back & forth, mounted slightly loosely by the bolts...there will usually be a very slight amount of play.  Then tighten to only a few foot-pounds, evenly, cross-pattern as best you can.  If the flywheel was not heated, tighten fully to specifications at this point, in a cross-pattern.  If the flywheel WAS heated, wait until it has cooled, then tighten fully to specifications. Mind the torque.  As noted previously, the early 10mm bolts must be new.  The 11 mm ones are reusable, unless damaged from over-torquing, etc.


A tool can be fashioned to lock the flywheel/carrier, while the bolts are torqued.  Such tools are shown in photos in such as Clymer's & Haynes manuals, BMW literature, ETC.  The original BMW tool may even be available, but the tool is quite simple.  I recommend you do NOT lock the flywheel/carrier by using the starter teeth.  Brook Reams has an article that clearly shows using these tools: http://brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcyle-rebuilds/1975-r756-build-s-replica/11-bmw-r756-replace-crankshaft-rear-oil-seal-oil-pump-cover-o-ring/



Main Seal installation tools:
(if you decide to use them, and I recommend you DO!)

The original BMW main seal installation tool was #880; various numbers were used in front of that one, such as 88-xx---etc.

There is an article on making a fancy, nice, main seal tool that works fine with the later seals.  The article is here: 
http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/mainseal_driver/index.html

In the photo below, note that the BMW stepped plate can be used upside down for flush seals, or with the step to the inside for installing to slightly forward of flush.   The Ed Korn type tool shown uses setscrews to adjust the depth; the tool seller provides instructions with the tool. There area two types of flywheel (or clutch carriers) in use.  If the front end has a small radius, then the seal is installed to full depth.  If there is a taper, as on early flywheels;  the seal is rearward a small amount, about 1 or 1-1/2 mm.  Oak uses rear ring gear shims for that, installing the shims, then the seal. I don't....because I don't have any stock of them, & don't see the need.
 




The above type of plates (or, ~ similar) can be modified to add a central threaded hole, & to add 2, 3, or even 4 radial holes.  The plate can then be used for removing the seal; not just installing a new seal.   Removal is done by installing 2 or 3 of the bolts, LIGHTLY tightening them & thus the plate, to the crankshaft.  Then screw pointy sheet metal screws through the plate & into the seal.  The central threaded hole has a large diameter threaded hole. Remove the crankshaft bolts, & then installing & tightening the central bolt, will cause the seal to be pulled out.  Photos below:
 

The above six photos, which
I have cropped, were provided, with permission to use, by:  "Source: Brook Reams, http:brook.reams.me".
 
These photos show the seal
being removed & new seal
prepared for installation.


Thanks to Al Patton for supplying the below original photos of a later type Airhead (has the Guide Ring), which I have modified & placed below; which, with the above photos, should show you all you need to know.


Thrust washer us on the pegs.  5 bolt holes in the crankshaft, symmetrically arranged. That is why you MUST align the flywheel or  carrier for OT mark with pistons fully outwards!

Note the white spacers used here. Without them you could not rotate the bolts.

Holes all lined-up

10 mm hex bolts at oil pump cover are later types.

NO need to tighten much!
When installing the flywheel, heed advice earlier in this article on bolts & their torques!  
  If you are removing the clutch (obviously needed if removing the flywheel), MARK the position of major parts to each other, except the clutch diaphragm spring.  Factory marks are at 120.
To remove flywheel for any reason, FIRST set the engine to OT, top dead center, Oberer Totpunkt, & be sure that OT is STILL in the timing window, or close to it, when replacing the flywheel.  Pistons are fully outwards, or very close to that. If flywheel has a groove (it will if it is 10/1975 or later), it needs an o-ring there.  It was 11-22-1-337-099, now is -093.  Long ago number was 11-22-1-263-798.  The O-ring is called a Seal Ring by BMW.  59 mm x 3 mm.
   

Suppose the engine rotated some, or you forgot to mark things...or, the flywheel or clutch carrier was mis-positioned by a previous owner.  How do you find the proper flywheel position?  Here is a safe method:

1. Remove the valve cover on left cylinder. Remove left & right cylinder spark plugs; engine is easy to rotate. INSTALL SOME SORT OF A FLYWHEEL STOP TOOL at the alternator rotor!  

2. Place the flywheel into any bolt-hole positioning, putting in a few bolts, lightly tightened.  

3. Rotate the flywheel slowly in the NORMAL direction, which is CLOCKWISE as you face the flywheel from the rear, as you shine a light into the left spark plug hole.  You will see the piston come fully out, then reverse.

4. Rotate the flywheel slightly back & forth, CW & CCW, until piston is seen to be fully outwards.  Some might use a round tip metal rod for 'feeling' the piston, if so, Do NOT bugger-up the spark plug hole edges. Rotate back & forth, etc.,  SLOWLY/SLIGHTLY.  Do NOT use a pencil, it could break.

5. With the piston now fully outward, if the OT mark is not someplace IN the timing window, reposition the flywheel by removing the bolts and using the new position for the flywheel.

6. With the flywheel now in proper bolt hole position, have its bolts LIGHTLY loosened...just barely enough that you can rotate the flywheel by hand JUST ENOUGH to FEEL the slop in the bolts/hole.  This may be negligible. If present, center the flywheel in that sloppiness. NOW tighten the flywheel bolts more.  Remove the crankshaft stop tool only after the flywheel is in final position.

7. At this point you probably have everything ready to FULLY tighten the flywheel bolts, in some sort of cross-pattern, according to torque specifications....


 


PISTON TRAVEL vs CRANKSHAFT ROTATION IN DEGREES; marking flywheels, etc.:
On a BMW Airhead, you might be presented with a cut-down flywheel, with the markings being gone.  It is easy to calculate for the markings, no need for a piston travel versus crankshaft movement & cosine thing.   You simply measure the exact  diameter & multiply that by pi; or directly measure the circumference of the flywheel.   Each degree of crankshaft/flywheel  is 1/360th of the total circumference.  All you need to do is find Top         Dead Center very precisely, a rather easy job with a piston stop & degree wheel; then mark TDC as "OT" on the flywheel.  Then each degree from that, advanced or retarded, is a known measurable distance on the circumference; you can mark the flywheel for such as Z or F and S; or, for whatever you need.    If you are doing camshaft measurements, you simply go to OT, use a degree wheel mounted at the crankshaft (perhaps onto the bolt holding the rotor in). 


If you want to know all the details, with a full mathematical formula, it is in item #18 of the following article:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/formulas.htm
That article will be especially useful for those of you with Classic K bikes and 2 stroke bikes.


Oil pump and oil pump cover:

The oil pump inner rotor INNER EDGE is chamfered, in case you remove it & wonder what direction to replace it in.....and the punch marks go to the rear. You do not have to line up the punch marks.  Oil pump clearances are easily measured with common feeler gauges & a machinist's or other straight edge rule, on edge.   Here are some general specifications:
Rotor 2.22"  +0-.0009"
Housing 2.23"  +.0017" -0
Rotor end clearance .004-.007"
Rotor thickness .54" -.0066+.0013"
Rotor to housing face .001" to .0023"
Rotor to rotor clearance .0046" to .0117"

The oil pump cover O-ring may be replaced easily any time the flywheel is removed.  Original oil pump O-ring was black 11-41-1-250-274, 0.079" thick.  That part was discontinued a long time ago in favor of a red O-ring that is slightly thicker, at 0.084", part 11-41-1-335-895.  SOME parts lists & on-line fiche, will show it as 11-41-1-335-896.

Early oil pump covers had Phillips screws, which often are a problem to remove (use of the hand-operated impact wrench listed in my http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/tools.htm article is highly suggested!).   Early pump covers had tapered screw holes to accommodate these flat head Phillips screws.   Early pump covers did not seal well; the later type cover ALSO fixes that potential problem, by groove depth & later thicker O-ring. If you have a Phillips-screw type of cover, I recommend you install the later pump cover, with the later hex-head bolts.  When installing the pump cover with its new O-ring, grease the O-ring, or otherwise be very careful that the O-ring stays in place during the installation/tightening process.  I use Loctite BLUE on the bolt threads.  I am careful to tighten the 4 bolts evenly, in a cross-pattern, a bit at a time, until tight....88 INCH-pounds (that is only 7.3 footpounds).


Crankshaft:

When setting up a lower end, particularly if it is a NEW crankshaft, you must use BMW specifications for matching the crank color code & main bearing bushings & bearing cap (front main bearing holder).  Generally, it is a matter of matching color codes on these things...the Factory Manual has the various specifications. If unsure, ask on the Airheads List, rather than use Haynes or Clymers manuals (which are OK for getting ideas about how things might be done).   Some things are not in the factory nor Haynes nor Clymers manuals.  I have many details later in THIS ARTICLE.

MOST of you will never have a crankshaft out, let alone be changing one.   A few of you may be installing a new crankshaft or have the crankshaft out for re-shimming.  BMW lower ends are very long-lived, providing they get clean oil all the time.

A very grabby clutch, vibration, hard shifting, & idle rpm change with clutch lever use AFTER full warm-up...all usually indicates a need to re-shim the crankshaft.  Do NOT get confused here, as it is normal for idle rpm to speed up SLIGHTLY with clutch lever pull-back with cold transmission oil, even in neutral. Details are in this article somewhat further down this page.

Front main bearing and its cap/holder/carrier:
Changing the front main bearing? Confused about its holder/carrier? 

Pay attention to the information in the books about properly positioning things; the oil holes being vertical ...and about the drilling needed on the two holes through the bearing...0.124"...right through the existing front bearing carrier.... and then the bearing area.  A new locating pin hole....taper hole, partial at 0.156", & full at 0.148"....there is a special ream...etc.   All this is being mentioned for you, & not put in exacting detail, so you will be extra cautious in not just willy-nilly changing/doing things.  Things are not always as you may think they are....ask questions on the Airheads LIST!!  If you have the BMW Factory Service Manual, it will show the front bearing carrier drilling setup.

To remove the front holder you need to use a puller, either BMW's, or a steering wheel type for a car.  Use a good hardened bolt with a countersunk depression (use a lathe), in the crank nose, for protection.  YOU MUST HEAT THE AREA QUITE HOT, WITH A LARGE FLAME TORCH.

There is a bushing (main bearing) in the main bearing cap.  Heat the cap to sizzle & press out the bushing. Reheat to install new bushing.  Be sure to line up the oil hole & have the joint properly offset from vertical (the hole).  I can supply a photo of that.  Once the bushing is installed, you have to drill two oiling holes, & ream properly.  The bearing cap holes are already 3.2 mm.  Details as in the factory manual must be followed.   You will be installing a retaining pin, a taper fit; locking it in place with punch marks.  It prevents the bushing from rotating, & cutting off the oil supply.   Very rarely, that pin has fallen into the crankcase.  Be sure yours will not.

Grinding crankshafts?:

Do NOT even think about re-grinding crankshafts unless you are prepared to re-heat-treat (maybe hard plasma coat; nitriding?) the area that was ground, & to properly radius the sharp corners, etc.  You would need a clever machinist.  The crankshaft has cheeks in the way hindering being re-ground.  All this WOULD BE VERY tricky to do.  BMW offered its published/available bearings for undersized crankshafts NOT because a used crankshaft can be reground, BUT, because of RARE production use of undersized crank journals.  The nitride type hardening of the stock crankshaft is not very deep!  Due to the weights on the crank being in the way, I don't think you will be able to grind a crankshaft anyplace, let alone re-nitride treat it; or do plasma coating, ETC.  If you find a company that can AND DID do all this for you, successfully>>>>please let me and the Airheads LIST know about it!

Crankshaft end play, spacers, etc...the technical details: 

Crankshaft end play is set via two thrust washers at the rear end of the crankshaft. Photos are much earlier in this article. One each of a selected thickness thrust washer (they come color graded for thickness) is used, & it is common to have them of different thicknesses in the same engine.  These are the thrust washers with the oil groove and 'strange look' that FIT ON THE TWO PINS at the rear of the engine case.  One thrust washer is forward of the casting boss, one thrust washer is behind it.  It is NOT a difficult job to set end play....and the details are just below:

Fairly rarely...after huge mileages usually, one sees an Airhead that has two or more of the following symptoms:   Shifts hard, (BUT isn't input shaft play or lack of splines lubricant or bad clutch).  Probably has a lurching, grabby clutch action.   Idle rpm is unstable & varies a fair amount with clutch pull-in even after engine warmup. There is engine vibration. 
A grabby clutch can ALSO come about from clutch parts AND from excessive transmission input shaft end-play.

If you have an airhead with such symptoms, you will want to check the end-float (end play) of the crankshaft. You are advised to see an expert, or to get the BMW official information, but here is likely all you need to know.  You will have some color(s) of thrust washers on both sides of the engine housing boss area.  It is these that set the end-float of the crankshaft.   SOME BMW Manuals have the sizes of these WRONG (in converting the mm to inches).  If your existing crank has only excessive end play, you may want to just change the thickness of the REARWARD spacer, which is MUCH easier than removing the crankshaft to change the forward thrust washer.  BMW has specifications on end play, or end-float as they call it.  You need to understand that it varies if oily or dry; BMW does not tell you that.  The end-float specification is 0.08 to 0.15 mm (which is 0.003" to 0.0059").  This is for DRY.  If oily, the minimum is 0.15mm (0.006").    If you have removed the crankshaft & are installing it.... you may want to lower your labor by installing the thinner RED spacer inside.  Thusly you likely will not have to remove the crank again, just select the appropriate rearward spacer.  Note that BMW has a limit for wear; it is 0.20 mm (0.0079").

Here are the real values of the thrust spacers:
RED:   2.483 mm to 2.530 mm (0.0978" to 0.0996").
BLUE:  2.530 mm to 2.578 mm (0.0996" to 0.1015").
GREEN:  2.578 mm to 2.626 mm (0.1015" to 0.1034").
YELLOW:  2.626 mm to 2.673 mm (0.1034" to 0.1052").


Crankshaft REAR bearing (a bushing type):
The case is heated to sizzle in the area; the bush pressed out.  The case is reheated to install the new bush.  The bushes are available in oversizes to match your existing crankshaft, if it came undersized. AFAIK YOU CAN NOT have your crank ground properly if the bearing area is bad.  There is a oil groove & oil HOLE in the new bushing.  As you look from the rear of the case, with the pan surface facing you, the joint of the bushing is at the top right, & the oil hole is at the top.  That is, the bush joint is 26 to the right of vertical.

Regarding rod bearings, caps and bolts:

I do NOT reuse the rod bolts!.....
The conrod bolt has a special head, although it looks like a Torx.   The tool from NAPA is part 2305; same as K-D tools part 2305.   Be sure to oil these parts rather well as you assemble them.  Put the tab into the cap slot; & the rod on correctly; that is, the located pins will be facing forward! Tighten the rod bolts slowly, don't use too much torque at first, so you can check for smooth operation of the rod on the journal BEFORE you tighten to the final value of 35-38 footpounds. R80GS, R80R, R100GS, and R100R are to have the rod bolts tightened in stages, by degrees.  Initial preload on them is 15 footpounds, then you go to 40-45 degrees more.
 


Additional hints/notes....regarding vibration, noises, etc.:
(1) There have been instances, in the 1970's, ....(& suspicions by me of some 1980's R80 engines, possibly others), that       some noisy engines, or engines with vibrations that have not shown up as being due to anything else... are caused by out-of-tolerance crankshaft bearing fitment. I do not mean the thrust spacers at the rear of the crankshaft that set end-play of the crankshaft; I mean the bearing shells & crankshaft journals.

This is a complicated subject, & reference to a very technical SI is needed.  The main journals should have a clearance, measured by PlastiGauge or other means, of 0.0014" to 0.0026".  If the clearance is over 0.0026", BMW offers a mid-oversize bearing shell, number 11-11-1-265-437.   This is the green one.  There are quite a few other such shells, of various dimensions, you would need the SI, & a fiche or on-line listing(s), & some knowledge. 

(2) To measure the front main bearing cap internal diameter, the crankshaft must be removed, but the cap bolted in place!


Timing chest seals:
There is sometimes confusion regarding alternator & camshaft seals used in the inner cover.  All models use 11-14-1-255-011 alternator seals, probably 28 x 47 x 7 mm...I have not measured to confirm that exact size.  The camshaft seal up to models built in 9/1975 was 11-14-1-261-193.   It must not be use in later models, or there will be leaks. The later cam seal is 11-14-1-262-977, is 20 x 32 x 7 mm. See the article on doing a 'timing chain job' on this website: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/timingchain.htm
 


MISCL:

For the curious, the chain size is 3/8 x 7/32, both SIMPLEX and DUPLEX.

Crankshaft bearing:   For many years, this was number 07-11-9-981-722, and is 35 x 62 x 9 mm. The bearing number has been changed to  07-11-1-468-882.   It is a common bearing, but you must get the correct GRADE, C-3: The bearing is   FAG16007-C3

 


Rev:

02/04/2008:    incorporate all previous revisions; expand and also add information from "being-eliminated" article engineinternals.htm; clarify details on main seal installation.
02/11/2008:   Photos of rear seal installation.  Fix typo on which sub-section of article 60.  Edit entire article A/R, for clarity and emphasis.
04/24/2009:   Minor changes to text in one photo.  Clarify the 90 foot-pounds that are only on the 1981+ models.
05/10/2009:   Remove most of the emphasis and base colors, as experiment.
01/15/2010:   Clean up article for better clarity, less verboseness.
08/08/2010:   Add information on the crank tool from my TOOLS article
05/31/2011:   Cleanup
08/01/2011:   Add Addendum area with note on the REAR thrust washer problem.
06/18/2012:   Add minor commentary on the O-ring.
07/29/2012:   Flywheel warning sketch replaced by improved clarity version. Clean up article a bit.
09/04/2012:   Add "suppose the engine has rotated some...." section.   Add QR code; change Google ad display, add language button
12/12/2012:   Insert old crank.htm article and begin to completely revise
05/01/2013:   Oil pump O-ring part numbers and description changed.
08/03/2014:   improve the description of the crankshaft and bearings tolerances description and why.
04/06/2015:   Additional information on the O-ring, and history.
12/24/2015:   Update the meta-codes.  Revise entire article for layout,  left narrower justification, and reset tables orientation, etc. Clarify some details.  Combine sections for clarity.  NO technical details changes.
02/23 /2016:   Slight changes to meta-codes.  Increase fonts A/R to 14 & 28.  Eliminate some superfluous items.  Eliminate some repetitive items.  Narrowing of entire article.  Obtain some photos from Brook Reams and Marten Walkker, permission to use, with acknowledgements.
02/27/2016:   Fix typo on the bolt Brook uses at alternator, and add comment.
06/24/2016:   Update meta codes, scripts, H.L., etc.  Go through entire article, clarify many details, and clean it all up.

Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer

Return to Technical Articles LIST Page

Return to HomePage

Last check/edit: Friday, June 24, 2016