Miscl. Electrical
Electrical
schematics for Hazard flasher system, fold-out fog/driving lights
& heated grips.
VDO instruments. Substitute voltmeters and clocks.
ETC.
©
38-B
misclelectrical.htm
(1) The Hazard warning lights system, standard:
This schematic diagram is from the Factory Service Manual,
for 1983, and is a large .GIF format. It has my messy notes
on it. It is typical of the Hazard lamps function circuitry.
Rotate 90°, and then print
or print, and view the long side to right-left. With respect to the rotated image:...the
item in the upper left corner is the normal flasher unit, the wire leading
upward goes to the turn signal switch on the handlebars. This normal
flasher unit is used for the hazard function and normal function, on the
airheads. The function of this circuit is a bit convoluted.
When the ignition switch is turned on, Relay (8) at the lower right is then
energized, and power flows through that relay to both the flasher terminal 49,
and to terminal 30 on the hazard switch, item (7). When the hazard switch
is turned ON, power comes from terminal 49d of that switch, keeping relay (8)
powered on, even if the ignition switch is then turned off (until the hazard
switch is turned off). The purpose of diode (4) is to prevent the
circuitry from back-feeding the rest of the motorcycle. When the hazard switch is turned ON, the hazard switch, via
the R and L terminals, puts all the turn lamps in parallel...so all are
energized. The turn signal switch and individual lamps, and
wiring to the flasher is not shown on this schematic, but it is standard.
(2) Schematic diagram (Factory Service
Manual) for the optional fold-out lamps for the RT fairing, called 'Additional
Driving Lights':
It consists of a fog light and a driving light, and
associated parts. This is a reasonable sized .gif format, of 576 x 630
pixels, and can be
downloaded into your imaging program, and you can use the zoom feature, and all
necessary small fine details will show up quite well.
Nebelscheinwerfer is the fog light; Zusatzfernscheinwerfer is the driving
light.
As with all BMW wiring sketches:
BR = braun, brown, common chassis ground
RT = rot, red
GE = gelb, yellow
GN = grün, green
WS = weib, white
BL = blau, blue
GR = grau, gray
SW = schwarz, black
VI = violett, violet
TR = transparent, transparent
NOTE! For those installing extra
lamps, or have specific reasons to replace an existing flasher
unit,....ETC.....there is a heavy duty flasher unit available at
auto-parts stores, under the Signal Stat brand, model 263.
Mechanical and electrical. Flash rate is 60 to 120 per
minute, has 3 each 1/4" male spades, is 1.33" round, 1.35" high,
works on 11-15 volts, and from well below freezing to damned hot.
It will handle 20 ampere loads!!
There are digital voltmeters on
the market that require a separate power source. There can be
problems with them! Some of these require...or MAY require
a separate, perhaps 9 volt, supply. UGGGH!
There are meters in which the battery supply has the NEGATIVE
lead as NOT THE SAME INTERNAL CONNECTION as the meter's measuring
negative lead. These are very difficult to use, and
some use them with an external small 9 volt battery.
I recommend you do NOT use this type. The type of digital
meter I recommend you install in your bike (airhead, K bike,
ETC.) is a TWO WIRE METER. These meters provide their own
power from what they are measuring. They need NO lamp
either!
There are numerous types of digital meters available.
a. To install a ROUND
faced digital voltmeter in the Airheads, in place of the existing
round voltmeter, I use a 2-1/16" round faced type from such as
Summit Racing, in this country. See also
www.lascarelectronics.com, they have BOTH round AND
rectangular digital meters.
b. To install a
rectangular type digital voltmeter: My favorite meters came
from www.datel.com
This is now
http://www.murata-ps.com/
Good quality, rugged, reliable, accurate, red digits, and work
fine at any temperature. There are other digit colors available,
I recommend RED.
See also www.bikemeters.com
or
www.digitalmeter.com
(Retail outlets primarily, Datel type meters, with information,
so snoop around).
I recommend Datel's (murata-ps.com) model number DMS-20PC-1-DCM.
These draw only about 13 ma when powered.
If you want a
panel bezel, the part is DMS-BZL3, with no gasket. Gasket
is DMS-BZL4.
These are two wire, self-powered, need NO LAMPS. They are
encapsulated, in a polycarbonate case, and are VERY rugged. RED
digits.
The LED's are 0.37" high. Do NOT
purchase the 0.01 volt resolution type (has an extra digit), as
it is WAY overkill, and the always
changing indication on the right-most digit will drive you crazy.
You need only 0.1 volt resolution, for even critical work on your
bike.
Manufacturer's MIGHT call that a 4 digit type. The
3-1/2 digit type is fine. That basically means that at 10
volts and higher, it
simply adds a digit 1. The Datel (murata-ps) model I show
above is perfect for the bikes.
Heed this advice.
c.
Another place to snoop around is at
www.lascarelectronics.com, they have BOTH round AND
rectangular meters.
Anecdote: Back around 1999 or so, I designed a special
2-1/16" round faced digital voltmeter, and had a company run off
a batch of them. The Company was originally called Intellitronix
(C.R. Industries) and became Nordskog, in the USA.
May still be at
www.nordskogperformance.com.
I sold all of them except one, to Airheads. One production
version was put on my own bike, and I put my personal prototype
on another of my Airheads. A
few years later, I wanted a much larger batch made, and the
company refused. I could not find another company to make them
inexpensively, so dropped the
project. Later, I found that nearly the identical meter was
being sold by them to various hot-rod shops, such as Summit
Racing, who resold them to the public. These plastic-cased
meters are actually pretty darn good. Various types are
available, some with push-buttons on the face to enable storing
peak voltages, ETC.
5. Schematic diagram for the heated grips.
In this diagram: Item 1 is the
battery
Item 2 is the ignition switch
Item 3 is the kill switch
Item 4 is part of the fuses area
Item 5 is the connection for optional extras
Item 6 is the heated grips electrical connection
Item 7 is the heated grips switch
Item 8 is the LEFT grip heater element
Item 9 is the RIGHT grip heater element
For a .pdf schematic click here: airheadheatedgrips
Below is a fixed-size .jpg of the schematic for the airhead heated grips:
Revisions: