Miscl. ElectricalElectrical schematics for Hazard flasher system,
© copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer
(1) The Hazard warning lights system, standard:
Link to the below diagram in .tif format; located on this website. Can be expanded in your computer for more detail
As a PDF: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/BMWHazardCircuit.pdf
This schematic diagram, in both formats for you, is from the Factory Service Manual for 1983. It has my messy notes on it. It is typical of the hazard lamps function circuitry. Rotate 90°, and then print or print, and view the long side to right-left. With respect to the rotated image:...the item in the upper left corner is the normal flasher unit, the wire leading upward goes to the turn signal switch on the handlebars. This normal flasher unit is used for the hazard function and normal function, on the Airheads.
The function of the circuit is complicated: When the ignition switch is turned on, Relay (8) at the lower right is then energized, & power flows through that relay to both the flasher terminal 49, and to terminal 30 on the hazard switch, item (7). When the hazard switch is turned ON, power comes from terminal 49d of that switch, keeping relay (8) powered on, even if the ignition switch is then turned off (until the hazard switch is turned off). The purpose of diode (4) is to prevent the circuitry from back-feeding the rest of the motorcycle (keep THAT in mind, if that diode shorts!!) . When the hazard switch is turned ON, the hazard switch, via the R and L terminals, puts all the turn lamps in parallel...so all are energized. The turn signal switch and individual lamps, and wiring to the flasher is not shown on this schematic, but it is standard.
You can expand the TIF diagram in whatever image viewing program you use, it will be clear-enough to identify all details. The PDF is the same, you may prefer that.
If you intend to keep the system, and have problems, and want to include LED lamps in place of incandescents...and I am neither recommending or not, see the electrical hints article regarding LED lamps for flasher (turn signals or trafficators) use...and what you need to know about resistors and full electronic flasher relays to solve problems.
Turn signal buzzer:
This was standard in the 1978-1980 era. Most riders disconnected them, as they can be VERY annoying, unless you pull in the clutch lever or are in neutral...and that was not done that way on all versions, all countries. The various schematics for that era may have the circuitry, and may not. In some instances, such as with the 4-way hazard lights installations, and obliquely if you have the Authorities type of swing-out bi-color lamps on a RT, or similar on RS, the multiple relays and associated wiring for the various functions get mighty complicated. I can furnish the simple early buzzer wiring information.
Nebelscheinwerfer is the fog light; Zusatzfernscheinwerfer is the driving light.
As with all BMW wiring sketches:
BR = braun, brown, common chassis ground
RT = rot, red
GE = gelb, yellow
GN = grün, green
WS = weib, white
BL = blau, blue
GR = grau, gray
SW = schwarz, black
VI = violett, violet
TR = transparent, transparent
NOTE! For those installing extra lamps, or having specific reasons to replace an existing flasher unit, ETC.....there is a heavy duty flasher unit available at auto-parts stores, under the Signal Stat brand, model 263. Mechanical and electrical. Flash rate is 60 to 120 per minute, has 3 each 1/4" male spades, is 1.33" round, 1.35" high, works on 11-15 volts, and from well below freezing to damned hot. It will handle 20 ampere loads!!
Here is a PDF version: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/RTtypeFlipOutLights.pdf
Here is the EURO RT style of these flip-out-lights; original pdf was courtesy of Doug Dokken, firstname.lastname@example.org; which I have converted to a jpeg here:
(3) VDO instruments:
There are digital voltmeters on the market that require a separate power source. There can be problems with them! Some of these require...or MAY require, a separate supply, perhaps 9 volts. The worst part is often that the supply negative is NOT common to the measuring side of the meter....UGGGH! These are difficult to use, and some use them with an external small 9 volt battery. I recommend you do NOT use this type; there is NO NEED TO. The type of digital meter I recommend you install in your bike (airhead, K bike, ETC.) is a TWO WIRE METER. These meters provide their own power from what they are measuring. They need NO lamp either! They are LOW DRAIN. These meters are available in LED and LCD versions. The LED version is much more visible in all conditions of lighting (day, night, etc.), and pulls only a small bit more current ...and that is totally negligible on your bike, if you wire it so the meter is powered AFTER the ignition switch. Drain is UNDER 0.020 ampere for the Datel (Murata) unit...that is under 0.28 watt! It is BRIGHT!! There are numerous types of digital meters available.
a. To install a ROUND faced digital voltmeter in the Airheads, in place of the existing round voltmeter, I use a 2-1/16" round faced type from such as Summit Racing, in this country. See also www.lascarelectronics.com, they have BOTH round AND rectangular digital meters.
b. To install a rectangular type digital voltmeter: My favorite meters came from www.datel.com. This is now http://www.murata-ps.com/ Good quality, rugged, reliable, accurate, red or green or blue digits, and work fine at any temperature. I recommend RED digits. See also www.bikemeters.com or www.digitalmeter.com (Retail outlets primarily, Datel type meters, with information, so snoop around). I recommend Datel's (murata-ps.com) model number DMS-20PC-1-DCM-C. These draw only about 13 ma when powered. If you want a panel bezel, the part is DMS-BZL4-C, with gasket. The meter will read accurately from +8 to +50 volts D.C. These are two wire, self-powered, need NO LAMPS. They are encapsulated, in a polycarbonate case, and are VERY rugged. RED digits for the above number. If you want blue digits the number is DMS-20PC-1-DCM-B-C; and for green digits it is DMS-20-PC-1-DCM-G-C. The LED's are 0.37" high. Do NOT purchase the 0.01 volt resolution type (has an extra digit), as it is WAY overkill, and the always-changing indication on the right-most digit will drive you crazy. You need only 0.1 volt resolution, even for critical work on your bike; and the only such work is in setting the voltage regulator for the alternator; or using the meter with leads attached as a test instrument for setting the Voltage Regulator or measuring circuit drops. Some manufacturers will call this type of meter I recommend a 3-1/2 digit type. That basically means that at 10 volts and higher, it simply adds a digit 1. Heed my advice....do NOT get the 0.01 volt resolution meters. There are cheap "equivalents" to the Datel unit, sold on Ebay. They SEEM to be OK.
Back around 1999 or so, I designed a special 2-1/16" round faced digital voltmeter, and had a company run off a batch of them. The Company was originally called Intellitronix (C.R. Industries) and became Nordskog, in the USA. May still be at www.nordskogperformance.com. I sold all of them to Airhead owners, except one, which I no longer have. One production version was put on my own bike, and I put my personal prototype on another of my Airheads. A few years later, I wanted a much larger batch made, and the company refused. I could not find another company to make them inexpensively, so dropped the project. Later, I found nearly an identical meter was being sold by them to various hot-rod shops, such as Summit Racing, who resold them to the public. Guess who developed them? These plastic-cased meters are actually pretty darn good. Various types are available, some with push-buttons on the face to enable storing peak voltages, ETC.
MORE information on voltmeters will be found in item #24 in the electrical hints article:
(5) Heated grips:
(6) Replacing a /6 left-side bars switch:
If you try to order a new lights switch (the "combination switch") assembly on the left-side of the handlebars of a /6, you will likely be sold a /7 assembly. You could get confused about the wiring. The original had 9 wires, the new one has 8 wires. How do you wire the new switch?
a. Disregard the RED wire. It was part of the /6 switch, and originally went to terminal 30..... because on the /6 you could flash the high beam withOUT the ignition switch being on. That disappeared with the /7 switch.
b. The green/black wire of the new switch needs to be connected to the brown section of the connection board/plate. See lower area, yellow's, at terminals 31. This takes the place of the old brown wire. It is the horn wire. The reason for this brown wire becoming a green/black is that in the /6, it sends a switched ground to the horn, but in the /7, it uses a switched HOT for the horn.
c. There are some other details you might want to know; mostly the original colors in same place, but do read this, if you think you might be confused. Of the wires not yet discussed, the GRAY goes to the same place as originally, terminal 58...usually on the top right terminal under the green group. The yellow connection is to the original same place, terminal 56b....right side usually. The white goes to 56a (other whites at that area too). Brown/white goes to yellow-green's, H....below the reds group. Green-violet to headlight relay 86. Green to ignition switch 56.
NOTE: There have been some reports of some new switches' wiring does not conform to c., above. In those instances, refer to the original wiring colors, except that a., and b., will still apply.
Here is a capture from MaxBMWMotorcycle's website fiche:
(7). Sometimes someone wants to modify a bike's wiring so that the engine will run in PARK & HEADLIGHT positions.
©Copyright, 2014, R. Fleischer
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Last check/edit: Monday, November 07, 2016