Gas Caps, Luggage, Windshields, Locks & Keys, mirrors, Instruments, etc.
©

locks_caps_etc.htm-75

1.  Steering head locks:   These are not easy to remove, if they were, there would not be any need for a steering head lock!    To remove a steering head lock, remove the swinging plate by prying the pin out, then drill the lock while using a powerful vacuum cleaner.  Clean carefully to avoid metal getting into the lower steering bearing.  Because of this potential problem, I USUALLY advise a lock be changed when steering head bearings are being serviced.   When installing the NEW lock tumbler assembly, you MUST have the key installed, and it simply snaps all in place.    Replace the cover and pin. 

2.   http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/keys/keys.htm
A LOT of information and pictures of the keys
 

Info on Krauser luggage:
http://w6rec.com:80/duane/bmw/bags/krauser/index.htm

     
 http://users.pandora.be/tups/index.htm
some locks reference materials

3.  Key blanks:   This section #3 applies to all the keys EXCEPT the old cable lock and EXCEPT the FLAT LATCH luggage....note that KRAUSER KEYS are different on some versions (2 I know of) (but, see references later on this page regarding the FLAT LATCHES on the luggage).  See also above references in 2.  See information on Krauser bags, later in this article.

Also  ...see my REFERENCES page, under LUGGAGE.  

 BMW genuine steel key blanks made by Neiman are by far the best!   That being said, here is information on other makes of key blanks:    Ilco SR61N (these are brass, NOT STEEL like BMW keys!); Euro style JMA-NE-7; B69F; Volvo V77; Volvo V07; Ilco's Key blank V06 can be made to work.  Other usable blanks are numbers RT15 as on Renault and Silca NE 5, Curtis MC44.

NOTE:   Your locksmith may want to look at Taylor Lock Company #071V, which is supposedly the same as Ilco #L62VN.  Note that the company was acquired by Simpson Hardware in 1983.    It was reported that an Italian key, Silca brand, is available in Europe, and the model to use is NE5 and NE5P.

Here is a URL that shows how to make your own key!    http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/print/print_loopframe_body_keys_for_tool_boxes_and_fork_lock.htm

http://www.motorcyclekeys.com
Generally, this is for the more conventional looking keys. 

Original coded keys are orderable, already cut, from your dealer, for such as the ignition.  You need the code that came with the keys with your new bike.   Otherwise, you need the correct blank, and to find a locksmith willing to cut the STEEL key.  You may well find that your BMW dealer will cut the keys.  Many locksmiths will NOT cut steel keys....in that case try your friendly hardware store to cut YOUR blank from YOUR original key.  You can order coded keys via the above URL, or your dealer.  The BMW keys are made of STEEL, both straight and folding type.    Here are the BMW BLANK (uncut) numbers:
straight:  51-25-1-233-554
folding:   51-25-1-453-659

NOTE!   The folding key comes apart easily by pushing the "axle" or hinge pin out of the head. Some otherwise-cooperative key cutters in your area may balk at copying your key just because the floppy head restricts it from fitting in the slots of their automatic machines.

4.  The BMW tour bags with the flat locks can be converted to the tubular style locks...a riveting job (no pun intended), but care must be taken to align the rear bag lock, to be SURE that it will actually latch onto the bag mounting properly.

Saddle bags loose?  vibrate? locks sloppy?  Going to lose a bag whilst traveling?.....read on:

Luggage problems are common.   Once in a while, a rear flat latch will get worn enough to break, leaving your bag all over the highway, and you may not notice the bag disappearing from the bike.  FLAT latches means, here, the type that has a rather flat handle, and there is a small flip lever to allow the key to be inserted.   Those that venture off-road, in particular, should be conscious of this possibility.  Some of us put Bungy-Buddies on the rear of our bags, and bungee one bag to the other (some do it to the rear, even tops, of the lids).   The bungee(s) go between the two bags.  Other folks use a variety of straps....even ropes!...between the bags....or on individual bags around that bag's mounting frame.  The standard bag frames have some round holes in them.  Install a standard timing hole rubber in the two top holes, front and rear.  That will stop some of the bag vibration.  Bag vibration wears the rear latch.  It is worse if the bag is very heavily loaded.  If the front of the bag fits too loosely, build up the frame tubing with a few layers of tape.  Same can be done for the rear, for the flat latch.

  There is a great tendency for folks to overload the bags, far beyond their rating, and that gives a lot of extra inertia over bumps, etc.  That inertia can cause problems.     It is possible for the bag frame to normally bend a bit in rough going, and with a worn rear latch, and a goodly bump, the bag can depart.  I won't take the chance, and both my TourBags on one bike, and my Krausers on the other bike, have bungee cords.    I've never had a bag depart from one of my rides, and that includes some worn rear latches and some 'flying' over Alaskan frost-heaves.     Some dislike that bungee bodge, some use straps around the bag and frame....ETC.  Some hate the idea of anything. Extra weight in the bags tends to be hard on the bag frames too, and they can crack, often near the front lower mounting.

 NOTE!   The TourBag and some Krauser's use the same FLAT latch at the REAR, with only the early BMW TourBag having flat latches of the SAME type on top.  Keys, etc., are treated much earlier in this article.

 The flat latches are replaceable by the later, better, tubular latches, although those top flat ones don't fail all that often, like the rear (and vastly more important one) do.   KEYING to match, is possible, as the tubular latches come without key locks, you purchase them separately, and with some clever playing, you can match your key.   I have one bag that has the original flat top latches and one rear tubular.   No one seems to notice the disparity.    NOTE that roughly or vigorously snapping the latches closed tends to wear the latch prongs...which is where they break and let the bag go flying down the road.  The tubular later latches are stronger in this respect.
   

 NOTE!!!   I have done a few changes for myself....and for several customer's bikes....from the flat latch to the tubular rear latch, and have found that the tubular latches are not always a perfect fit to the old rivet holes.  BE SURE that your new tubular latch, if you go that way, matches the holes when the latch is shut, fully clamped that is, on the frame.... and make it match, if that is needed.  USUALLY what happens is that you rivet the new tubular latch to the existing holes, and the new tubular latch needs to be tightly forced, to close all the way.  BAAAD!   I found this out on the first one I did, and had to drill out the rivets and > move the hole centering a tiny amount.  Bag keys are coded, and the latches have the same code on them someplace.  The later tubular style lock (that tubular portion is the handle, so-to-speak) are better, use a more standard looking type of key.

There is a rubber insert on the original latches, there is no part number.  The rubber tends to deteriorate over the years, even get lost.  The rubber part can help at a latch, but if the latch is well-worn....worn considerably......you can have a problem.  But...the rubber will tighten things up considerably, if you make the rubber part out of reasonably dense material.    I use to use the rubber from common rubber mats as used on gym floors, using a very tough 'glue'....the same glue as for engine labels (and I use it at fairing bellows on RT's too) which is 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive.   Yellow Gorilla Snot.   Black if  you want it, is available, not sure how commonly.   Clean surfaces and apply EXACTLY per the tube.   NOTE that if the fingers are really well worn, they can bust, and you become a loser, in both meanings of that word.

Note:  The old flat tour bag latches (and rack clamping flat latch on some Krauser's) wear out, especially from 'snapping' the latches closed.   It IS possible to mix and match various flat latch parts...and the secret to disassembly, when needed, is to drill out the rivets.

For OLD Krauser parts:   Michael Krauser GmbH; 86415 Mering-kornblumenring 12
        Tel  08233-1461     Fax 08233-1445    
         krauser.motorrad@t-online.de (michael Krauser GmbH)
Krauser is now owned by Hepco and Becker and they still make the classic Krauser panniers.  They now have Hepco Quick Release Locks.  One CAN remove the Hepco badge and use a BMW badge.
 

For CRAVEN parts (Ken Craven died some time ago, but parts are available...):   First things went to:  sales@cfgsiteservices.co.uk
You might find them unresponsive, and you might find a website for Craven stuff, and find it unresponsive.  Someone in the know said that if you telephoned, you would have good luck:
Nash Morgan; Lightmoor Works, Speech House Road, Cinderford, Glos.,  GL14 3HU
England
Tel. +44-1594-827649
>>>LATEST information is that the stuff was all sold to Phil Primmer who does business at:
http://www.westcountrysidecars.co.uk

5.  The cheap-looking 'luggage'  style keys used on the Krauser top latches and the flat BMW style Krauser rear latch, and the BMW Tour Bag flat latches, top and rear, are special.  Very difficult to get from a U.S. locksmith.   These keys are made in TWO GENERAL styles, with the ground-down flat area on opposite sides being the major difference.  Another differences between them MAY, in some instances, be the style and side with the groove.   The locks themselves have a part number on them, and that number corresponds to the stamped number on the keys.  There are TWO systems of key markings and locks markings for Krauser locks.    The TOP locking latches may have a stamped number such as S150 or 505, etc., on the top.  That number applies if the SECOND number does NOT appear.  The second number on those top two Krauser locking latches is on the OUTside, the side FACING you as you look at the bag from the side.  It is stamped, in very small letters.  You may have to open the bag and latch and use a flashlight to see them.  The stamped number is a similar number as with the BMW Tour Bags, below.  One version of Krauser bags have a REAR latch that is the same as the BMW flat latch, on the Krauser it holds the bag to the bag frame.  The numbers are as follows for the BMW tour bag latches:

 On the BMW tour bags with the flat top and flat rear latches, the number is stamped someplace on the latch after opening.   That number could be something like 050; 051; 065, etc.   SOME keys are still available by special order from your BMW dealer....and some may well be still in dealer stock,  you will have to contact a few different dealers, such as your local favorite dealer, and I can also recommend  REPSYCLE and Bob's BMW.

Here is a reportedly friendly and helpful locksmith named Trudy.  She says that she has quite a collection of the 3-digit coded keys for various BMW item locks.  She even has a ring of masters to attempt to make copies of any that she does not have a supply of.
You can reach Trudy's shop at:  Key Kraft   1585 Church Street   San Francisco, CA 94131   (415) 285-0134
 

NOTE that the keys are in the parts books under part number 71-60-1-467-xxx
where -xxx will PROBABLY begin at -560 or 561 and end with 590; to cover keys that have a number of 040 to 069.

REPEATING:  The above keys apply to the BMW flat latches and one system of the Krauser top latches and Krauser BMW-style flat rear latch.

If you do a search, you will find that a S150 key may be shown as an obsolete BMW number 46-54-1-237-764.  You can ask the old-time dealers for keys.

BMW is not going to stock all the oldest various keys anymore.  Keys in BMW stock are likely to not be made again, and you will have to purchase new lock assemblies.   I have obtained some information on SOME of the OLD keys, superceded numbers, etc.   

6.  Truck bed liner paint, in rattle cans, works well on sanded luggage

7.   Gas Caps....and BMW locks in general!:::

BMW has issued two Service Bulletins on the gas caps, and they leave out valuable information.  The first bulletin I have was dated 11-79-11S, and came from Butler & Smith (this was before BMWNA entered the picture).   This bulletin, signed by Gene T. Shirley, the B & S Service Manager,  is on Lock Exchange on filler caps.   This bulletin was really for the situation where a cap was to be replaced for reasons OTHER than a lock failure, and one wanted to retain the SINGLE KEY system used originally on the airhead.   The bulletin said to remove the lock cylinder from the defective cap, and install it into a new cap.  UNfortunately, there was zero information about removing the old lock withOUT destroying the old cap!!    It was in this bulletin that the information about drilling the emblem was found, for those caps that could not be removed normally.  BMW suggested just drilling through the emblem and the white plastic inner liner, and through it, and leaving the drill in place to lock the cap mechanism, to enable removal. 
BMW offered the following information on removing the lock, and this is verbatim:
    a.  Remove the rubber splash ring from the cap.  Using a hacksaw, placed in the groove for the splash ring, saw off the top of the cap.  During this cut, the cap must be rotated so that the hacksaw blade does not cut into the lock.
    b.  Once the top is removed, the lock movement, complete with the installed lock cylinder, can now easily be removed from the housing.
    c.  The lock cylinder is now removed from the lock movement by depressing the locking tumbler pin and simultaneously pulling out on the lock cylinder.  The locking tumbler pin is visible through the slot found midway down the body of the lock movement, with the lock turned to either stop, and can be depressed with a paper clip or other suitable tool.
    d.  The lock cylinder can now be installed into the new cap by aligning the locking tumbler pin with the ramp in the lock movement and pushing the lock cylinder fully into the lock movement.

The other bulletin is dated June 1986, 16-012-86 (2212), it is from BMWNA, and entitled 'Matching New Fuel Cap Locks to Existing Keys.    It is THIS bulletin that REALLY confuses the issue (about how to remove, intact, an existing lock cylinder), due to the wording of the initial paragraph:  ""In many cases, a dealer will find it necessary to replace the lock cylinder in a fuel cap due to shortage or failure of the original fuel cap/lock cylinder.  In these cases, it is possible to retain the one-key locking system by RECODING A NEW LOCK CYLINDER AT YOUR DEALERSHIP"".    You could be confused if you read this the wrong way.  It is not REALLY saying that one removes the OLD lock cylinder intact, ...OR...that one places the the NEW lock cylinder in a new cap by using your original key.
I will quote, verbatim, the entire pertinent part of the rest of this bulletin:

""Purchase the appropriate uncoded lock cylinder by ordering:
Boxers (all)   51-25-1-243-797
K's (all)          51-25-1-455-109
This lock cylinder accepts the standard ignition key used on all BMW motorcycle models since 1974.
Install your original ignition key into the new lock cylinder.  Observe the brass blades (tumblers) that protrude above the surface of the cylinder.  With the key inserted into the new lock cylinder, grind or sand the brass blades down until they are smooth with the outside contour of the cylinder.
IMPORTANT: Do not disturb the last blade located at the bottom of the cylinder.  This blade secures the lock cylinder into the fuel cap.
When sanding the blades, hold this one down to protect it.  Remove any burrs if necessary, lubricate with an aerosol lubricant and clean with a jet of compressed air.  Install the newly recoded cylinder into the replacement fuel cap.""

****A message from O. Okleshen, aka OAK, was published to the Airheads LIST on 08/03/2003.  I am reprinting it without editing:

The gas cap lock mystery has been reasonably solved with some hard core digging in the archives. Here is the way it sits at present:
If you have a gas cap (77/later models with screw in flush cap) that is ruined in terms of corrosion, damage to the cap proper or its locking mechanism etc, and would likely involve needing a new cap, there are several options:

If you have the key code from your original key (stamped on the key), you can order a new cap from your dealer that will fit your key but you must supply the key code number when ordering. The older keys had the number stamped on the key. Some of the newer keys had a knockout with the number on it. If you kept the knockout or its number in a safe place and still have it, you are in business. The part number for the custom keyed cap is 51-25-2-307-173 and seems still available to date. Cost is about 50 dollars.

If you do NOT have a key code and want a new cap with a new key (that will no t match the rest of the locks), the part number for the cap with new key is 51-25-2-307-168. Cost is about 50 dollars.

NOTE:   There is sometimes confusion over what is what with the caps and parts.   The above -168 number is a locking cap, with 2 keys, for 1977+ bikes, it is round, and it will click if turned far enough.   Early gas caps had a metal top.  The 1977 had a RECESSED lock, while the 1978 and later had a FLUSH lock.  Later caps were plastic.  The early caps had the rubber dust ring, later were plastic.
Caps were available with custom keying, from YOUR key number.   
That cap/order number was 51-25-2-307-173.   For the lock cylinder part only, it is 51-25-2-307-166.

If you can carefully drill out the tumbler cylinder without damaging the lock interior, you can order a new lock cylinder with a new coded key that will NOT operate the rest of the locks as part number 51-25-2-307-166. Cost is about 30 dollars. There is no official known way to otherwise remove the original lock tumbler except by carefully drilling and nibbling away from the top of the cap. Procedure to the best of knowledge was never published and the Motobins procedure previously discussed hadn't been successful and if "force" tried as they suggest is likely to end up with a permanently damaged unusable cap. 

At one time there was a new cap available with no cylinder and a blank " stretch socks" cylinder that could be surgeried by the local dealer to fit your existing key, coded or not. But according to the latest records that part is no longer available (since at least 1995) and if available would be old stocks on the dealer shelf. You would have to inquire. Cost for that part circa 1995 was about 18 dollars.

The most sensible approach if your cap and lock is in trouble is to order the cap with a factory tuned lock cylinder to match your key code (first option listed.) That way you get an all new replacement cap and is operable with your existing key and matches your remaining locks. You may have to wait for the cap as a special order. May take a month or so.

This is a somewhat complex issue and if you make a move, measure twice and cut once. The parts and availability as well as the price are certainly subject to change. And you might run into a counter parts man who is not adept at this level of intelligence need so be patient in dealing with him and if it gets too heavy try another dealer.

Hope that helps clarify the mysteries about the elusive gas cap..........Oak--ABC #35....... 

Because of the B & S and BMW bulletins, and reading between the lines, and while I think this may be a dead-end, still, I have theorized that it might be possible to remove the old original lock cylinder, intact, from a faulty ratcheting cap...perhaps by some sort of home-made tool through the side holes or? of the original cap.   I await having some old caps and a key, to play with in this regard.  If you wish to donate to that cause, contact me.


VENTING:  
The late 1977 (or perhaps from 1978) gas caps are changed in design, so that they allow air to pass to the inside of the tank, but fumes are not supposed to pass to the outside of the tank.    To accomplish this, their are valves built into the cap.  The very first of these caps could have problems.   The symptom of a venting problem is when the bike starts running very lean, may buck and seem to run out of fuel, and this typically happens after some time on the highway, the time can be shorter if the tank was rather full to start with.  OPENING the cap (unscrewing it a bit) will 'fix' the problem within 15 seconds, and this 'test' is nearly 100% for a bad cap vent.   The cap can be modified to fix the problem permanently.  Put it upside down on your workbench.   Drill AWAY from the center, any direction, about 1/2" from the center.  Thus the hole you will drill is off-center.   Drill, 3/32", from the bottom of the cap, through the metal shell, and continue drilling carefully....go through the air space, and drill into the softer material that you then feel you are drilling through....it is maybe 1/8" thick. Drill through it, and then stop drilling.  Clean out the cap as best you can of drilling swarf.   Replace the cap on the tank.  That's all there is to this.
 

8.   Windshields:   
Windshields which come already drilled, so the holes line up:   Clearview brand.
Very slippery fairing, that may even have less wind resistance than the stock BMW RS/RT:  Hannigan STe.
Pesky BMW rivet problem?.....the BMW rivet tool is NOT the way to go for those windshield rivets you need to install.  The best way is to use a common hardened drywall screw, these have a taper head.   Get a long one.  Carefully grind the threads off, just enough so they fit your pop-rivet tool.   Do not grind too fast and hard, do this slowly, quenching the screw in water often...don't take the temper/hardness/toughness out of the screw by overheating it.  It is now easy to use that tool to make the proper rivet shape.

9.   Tank bags:    Some tank bags can restrict the fuel cap venting.  
 

10.  STEM MIRRORS:  LOOK at these at your dealers, before buying.
For same, L & R, 1985+ R80 cow bar euro mirrors.  Big head mirrors 2 each 51-16-1-452-415; needing 2 each M8 wave washers 07-11-9-932-121; and 2 each Nylock nuts 17-12-9-964-675.  Plastic caps (2) 46-51-1-234-785.
note:  Early airheads can use 1998 R1200C mirrors.

INSTRUMENTS:

Information on cleaning, lubricating, fixing slipping odometer gears, and adjusting the speedometer, will probably be found on the Airheads Club Website, click on left for Technical Tips.   The URL for the site is:  http://www.airheads.org

BMW purposely calibrates its speedometers to never read slower than the actual speed the motorcycle is traveling at; taking into account tire variations, temperature, instrument changes with conditions, and so on.  BMW has a bulletin on this, #2756, dated 10-21-1996.    The bulletin states that the MAXIMUM amount the speedometer will read fast is:  10% of true speed, PLUS 2.4 mph.

Revisions:
11/02/2006:  All prior revisions incorporated and some minor editing.
12/29/2006:  Add #9, to be greatly added to when I can
01/16/2007:  add a bit more to item 9.
02/01/2007:  some clarifications on gas cap numbers and what they are.
02/19/2007:  #6 added
04/15/2007:  Update item #3 with more blanks information; correct a few other places for typos
05/08/2007:  Edit and revise this entire article.  Try to clarify details, put things in proper context, add more information.
10/02/2009:  Add Trudy's name and her locksmithing company
12/05/2009:  Add #10
01/20/2010:  Fix typo for newer part number for key 39; clean up table/column, so numbers are completely in-line with each other.
02/01/2010:  Add photos of gas cap drilling

Return to Technical Articles Index

Return to HomePage